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It's probably worth mentioning that the Ender 3 v2 is going to be the one to look at (right now) if you're getting an Ender 3 over the Ender 3 Pro. It seems to have the upgrades of the Pro and then some extras like silent steppers that are huge quality of life improvement. That said there are drop-in mainboard replacements from Creality for their Ender 3 machines for under $30 that include the silent stepper drivers so it's not that big of a deal.
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Jul 19, 2021 21:02
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asterioth posted:So ive got a problem with my ender 3 and im not sure wha the problem is. It used to print just fine but lately ive been having this happen in every print. I didnt print anything for a while, started again recently and i had to replace the extruder a bit ago, not sure if that has something to do with it or what. I'd check your extruder e-steps for overextrustion but also consider a new nozzle, sometimes that works wonders for degraded print quality. Just don't burn yourself, they are hot. This guy's video pertains to switching it but he's also got a video about making sure the PTFE tube in the hotend is seated properly (it can back out over time): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FRzsGttNMyk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=30qqKUwviww
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Aug 1, 2021 01:17
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asterioth posted:I changed the nozzle and it seemed to help a small amount but nothing major, i thought the ptfe tube was seated properly but ill reseat it again later and see if that helps. I'll have to figure out how to check and mess with the e-steps later, im wondering if thats it since its a different extruder than the stock one. Thank you! You basically pop the bowden tube off the extruder, mark some filament before the extruder, and command the extruder motor to move 100mm, then measure how much it put out and adjust. There's a lot of instructions online for dialing in the amount you need if there's an e-step adjustment needed. The firmware will prevent you from extruding if the hotend isn't over 150C or something (maybe 170?) so you'll have to heat up the hotend but you're not actually sending the filament to the hotend to measure it.
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Aug 1, 2021 04:19
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So yeah, if the size of the wheel that moves the filament changed then it will be sending a different amount of plastic down the tube. I replaced the extruders on both my ender 3 and sunlu s8 with totally different ones (knock off versions bondtech and e3d) so they have drastically different profiles (they both had to turn the other direction and go much faster since they're geared). Just changing the gear in the same orientation will be less extreme but will change the flow rate if it's not exactly the same size.
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Aug 1, 2021 05:49
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Hadlock posted:I have rotated from printing 4 foot long sailboats, to highly specialized Brio-compatible train stuff for my nephew I would've loved that as a kid, there were only so many tracks I could build with the wood ones.
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Aug 10, 2021 05:37
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I just buy ruby nozzles and throw them away if I ever have a problem or anything looks weird and on every full moon. I'm not going to go through the effort to Blingee a picture of an ender 3 but you can imagine it here in my terrible joke post.
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Aug 19, 2021 18:12
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Hadlock posted:Do the Ender 3 Pro have the really noisy mainboard? That was fixed in the E3 V2? That alone is worth the extra $80 for me, the printer sits about 3 feet to my left. Yeah, it doesn't have a silent stepper driver board like the V2. The Ender 3 Pro came out slightly after the Ender 3 and the Pro was just meant a little bit nicer and not made to hit a price point like the normal Ender 3 (the Pro has beefier aluminum extrusions, meanwell power supply, I forget what else). It was like, what if the Ender 3 engineering team didn't have to cut corners. That said, I believe it still has the plastic extruder handle. The silent creality board that's in the V2 is available separately for around $35 on Amazon and for the most part just plugs in to the same cable as the original board, but I'd definitely suggest the V2 for someone who's new and wants a good printer without immediately swapping parts out. Well, besides the extruder handle and springs at least.
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Aug 21, 2021 09:01
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Okay, if I wanted a spring steel bed for the Ender, what would I need aside from this? Is the spring steel the print surface or do you still need a PEI thing for that? I'd wait for more goons to answer since I don't use this, but I believe you want spring steel with a PEI coating, and you'll need the magnetic base on your bed to make it adhere unless your printer already has one (it probably doesn't). The Ender 3 is 235mm. Those options are for sale on that page but down at the bottom for $26.99. Basically there's an adhesive magnet sheet that you put on the bed, then you put the spring steel on top of it and the magnet holds it in place. Get PEI coated because that adds the sticking when its hot and releasing when it's cool feature, otherwise I don't know what you'd need to do to print onto spring steel.
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Aug 22, 2021 10:44
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SEKCobra posted:This is obviously a high resistance path, but this is not a spontaneous failure but probably how this thing has been from the getgo, just now showing more because of the higher current. There was a batch of bad XT60 connectors at one point, yours might be from that batch. Creality blamed a vendor of theirs and it did seem to get fixed quickly, however I doubt they tracked down every unit to do a recall because it's Creality. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4yDp9frWkcg
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Sep 8, 2021 10:41
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armorer posted:Any ender 3 owners have the stock hotend fail on them by claiming to be at temp but actually being low? No, I haven't had that happen. It could be a number of issues. Maybe the heater cartridge isn't contacting the cavity in the block properly or the wires are damaged. I'd also check the control board end since sometimes they tin the ends of the wires with solder which isn't actually good for the type of screw down clampy terminals they use on the PCB and adds resistance. Crimping a ferrule onto the stranded wires is the best solution. I have a non-contact IR thermometer that's pretty good. It's not perfectly accurate but if I wave it around the hotend area while the hotend is up to temp it usually shows a max temp that's pretty close to what I set it to. I think it was a $15 one from amazon, this is pretty close to what I have: https://smile.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-1080-Non-Contact-Thermometer/dp/B00DMI632G/
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Sep 10, 2021 00:08
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poverty goat posted:I was thinking about buying a sub-$200 3d printer to shoot off small things like training aids for my weed plants and stuff like drip rings and fittings and parts for peristaltic pumps for my imaginary future hydro setup, but people I know with 3d printers told me I'd end up wanting to dump $300 into it and should just start with a $500 printer. And if that's still the case, it's not worth it to me. But I'm really not in it to print multicolored artisinal barnacle jim dildos, just simple plastic parts, so is a stock Ender 3 really going to be that bad? I don't mind some tinkering as long as it's not a constant struggle to keep it running. My Ender 3 has been good. I did some upgrades but it's been pretty reliable unless I gently caress something up. The biggest reason to get the Ender 3 V2 is probably the noise level being a lot lower with the updated mainboard with silent stepper drivers as well as other improvements they've made to the Ender 3 platform over a couple of years. It still could use a couple of upgrades but it's supposed to be pretty good. The original Ender 3 is often on sale for under $200 and you'll pay $250ish for the V2 but it's really worth considering. This is a comparison between the Ender 3 V2 and Ender 6 SE but it's worth a look: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3jkrblU9lMI He's also got a series of 3d printer basics videos he put out recently. Here's a Tomb of 3d printed horror's Ender 3 V2 build guide. It comes with instructions but he's got some good tips for making sure things are straight: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JTN6jtB5mqk CHEP also has a lot of content generally focused around Creality printers and Cura slicer (use that or Prusaslicer). He's even got an Ender 3 V2 assembly video.
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Sep 19, 2021 15:53
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The Ender 3 Pro isn't as good as the V2 but if you're looking for something solid and very cheap and live near a Micro Center they have them for $100 for new customers when you sign up for an account. You have to buy them in store: https://slickdeals.net/f/15308359-n...-1&src=featured
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Oct 2, 2021 16:32
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Guest2553 posted:I'm trying to print something but instead of homing x/y and outline routine etc it just climbs a few cm above the build plate and shits out a constant stream of filament. The display says 'printing' but it never does - the most I watched it was for about 3 mins, z axis doesn't move at all. It's almost certainly an issue with the file, you can open it up in a text editor and check the G code which is just text lines telling it what to do. It's likely that the file is bad somehow or if you're using an sd card it could also be corrupt.
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Oct 7, 2021 22:04
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Ghostnuke posted:I think I've officially had it with my e3v2. What's the best FDM I can get that isn't Prusa $$$? My monoprice maker select v2 is much more of a pain than my Ender 3 but I'd say just get a Prusa Mini if you're having that much trouble.
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Oct 7, 2021 22:46
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poverty goat posted:my printer has been cranking continuously since last night and the only thing it's come close to loving up was this dude PETG is a bit more ductile so it's often recommended for things that might flex a little bit. It can be a little harder to print until you get your settings down right (it prefers a slightly higher nozzle for the first layer, prints hotter and sticks to itself so it can pull itself off the bed sometimes). If you can make the PLA parts work I'd just use that, but if not, PETG is a fairly easy to print alternative with different mechanical properties. There's also ABS, ASA, TPU, Nylon, Polycarbonite, etc, but they tend to be expensive and harder to print the more specialized you get. If your part works in PLA or PETG I'd just use them.
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Oct 9, 2021 22:44
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The Eyes Have It posted:gently caress, aware of the breach but silent about it. Those fuckers. Stratasys seems a lot like the Oracle of the 3d printer world.
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Oct 14, 2021 22:31
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mystes posted:Ok I guess I have to go learn how to level it properly. Check the belt tightness, too, layer shifts are usually due to either the part moving because it wasn't attached to the build plate properly, or the belts slipping (or potentially the print head smacking into something) leaving the hot end somewhere where the printer doesn't know it is but just continues.
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Oct 22, 2021 00:11
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mystes posted:After leveling, the print came out perfectly, so rather than a image of the problem I'll just post a crappy cellphone picture of the installed toothbrush holder: Nice! I love using 3d printers for stuff like that. Little problem/inconvenience/desire, commercial solution either doesn't exist or is weirdly expensive or is bad for some reason, so you print what you want. I have a handful of 3d prints I use every day like the flashlight mount on the front door or a soap dish, and some that I carry around in my bag but only use once a month or something like a battery holder for spare batteries. I wouldn't have paid for them or made them any other way, but they're super handy and I'm glad I made them.
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Oct 22, 2021 06:44
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Looking for some advice on pricing. My mega 8k is going to be here soon. What's the current opinion on resin pricing for giant prints? I know I'm going to be printing some crazy stuff for myself, but with this giant fucker I figure I could also make a couple bucks on the side. I don't really know about resin pricing but I'd definitely look on etsy and ebay for people selling stuff similar to what you want to sell to get an idea of what the potential competition is doing. Uncle Jessy has done a couple of videos about selling on Etsy that may be relevant as well: https://www.youtube.com/c/UncleJessy/search?query=selling
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Oct 22, 2021 09:59
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Wrap it up, nozzailures. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UNJdv5bFGOg
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Oct 24, 2021 21:42
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Yeah, rclifeon did printing on t-shirts a few years ago (I doubt he was the first but it was the first I saw it). Prusa just did a video about setting it up on their machines to make iron-ons or direct printing as well (they also looked at longevity with washing, flexible TPU seems to stay on). This was RCLifeOn's second video on the subject: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUW8G4vXZfg Recent Prusa video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9IHftw8cmd8 Pretty neat, I could see making some one offs in TPU.
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Oct 29, 2021 10:14
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Talorat posted:Is there a write up anywhere that gives the pros and cons of various filament materials? I’d like to learn more about what is best suited for what. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mPh1b2EOOz0
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Nov 2, 2021 02:09
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Homofaciens is continuing to work on a direct pellet extruder. His pellets are largely blended up PLA scrap which are filtered to size. It's still pretty early in development and may forever be just another guy's attempt at reuse, but he's getting good prints out of it. One interesting thing is that his heatbreak is PTFE through a thick piece of glass due to low thermal conductivity of glass. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oH-e_poDeYE I know other extrude your own at home products often require adding virgin PLA pellets to whatever else you're putting in, but a lot of them are also attempting to make new 1.75mm filament instead of just pushing it through to the nozzle.
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Nov 2, 2021 09:51
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My monoprice maker select just lets the heat block rotate on the heatbreak tube unless it's all the way against the back of the nozzle, so I got some of these flat jaw adjustable pliers to hang onto the block while I get the nozzle out and back in. Works alright, definitely sinks some heat. Previously used the adjustable wrench with a vice grip style clamp down to hold it but the angle on that made it hard to use without bumping into the vertical frame. Given the price, I probably should've gotten a new hotend that's better designed than the original v6, but I do use them for other stuff. I'm also going to replace the melzi board with a bigtreetech board first. Had the box with that and stepper drivers sitting by it for almost a year now. Any day it will happen. Any day now.
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Nov 6, 2021 13:00
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Deviant posted:Is there a recommended food dehydrator? I have the sunlu box but I use that for filament dispensing on active prints. I got the westinghouse branded version of this, which is Rosewill branded but identical to the base of the PrintDry. You can clip the plastic screen off a couple of layers of the food holding screen so that filament rolls fit. The plastic is a little brittle so I had mine crack a little on an edge when I snipped the screen part out but I just slapped on a little packing tape. There's enough room for a couple of rolls and you can throw your desiccant packs in when you run it.
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Nov 6, 2021 23:54
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Deviant posted:Prusaslicer defaults already have me at: It can if the hot filament gets way back past the melt zone in the heater but it may be worth trying a little more retraction since it's not directly pulling the plastic back that much so much as pulling filament back to reduce the pressure in the nozzle and hopefully prevent oozing. I have my Sunlu S8 at 5mm which is similar to a CR-10, but my direct drive monoprice maker select is at 1mm or so. Length of the bowden tube and therefore extrusion pressures over distance will be a determining factor. I'd google around to see what other folks have tried on the mini since it's a popular printer.
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Nov 9, 2021 01:44
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goddamnedtwisto posted:I've asked this question before and I think it was answered but I can't remember the answer... is there any particular advantage/disadvantage to those triangular 3D printers compared to the more traditional X/Y/Z ones? Delta printers can be faster than cartesian ones, but their build volume is round and not as tall as the printer (the arms that go to the print head always take some space). Jaded Burnout posted:You folks have helped me before, but I'm a little stuck with parts losing bed adhesion again. With bed adhesion issues I wouldn't leave the printer unattended. Generally it's not a great idea anyway even though here's thermal runaway protection and other things you can do to try to monitor your prints automatically (like the spaghetti detective). I don't feel comfortable leaving a print running for more than a few hours if I'm away. The bed adhesion issues could be a lot of things from the bed temperature to the material to the bed itself. Ideally PEI won't release the model until it's done and you flex it. Since yours is letting go early and you've tried glue stick, I'd definitely give the textured surface a shot. I know you said you're using PLA but they're not all created equal and there can be minor differences between batches and colors from the same manufacturer. One thing that gets brought up here from time to time is that white colored filament often has titanium dioxide in it for the color and some brands benefit from a slightly higher temperature. Also, with the season getting cooler in the northern hemisphere your printer may be in a cooler area and it's possible your bed temp could use a bump up. I don't know what you keep it at for PLA but 50C is common and I sometimes run 60C if it's cooler. Likewise if there's a vent from your heating near the printer it could be blowing air past it and cooling it unintentionally. Since there's a lot of variables and you haven't had consistent results I'd change things until you do have good results, and definitely don't leave it alone while you're away until you feel it's reliable enough to do so. It's just not worth the potential damage from cleaning a big blob of plastic off your hotend or the unlikely but not impossible chance of a fire.
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Nov 9, 2021 18:36
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Jaded Burnout posted:Here's the base of the piece which failed prior to my first post, after removing the brim (click for big): Nozzle is a little too high, the brim should be all connected together and the bottom should be pretty smooth. Probably the cause of the adhesion issues as well. https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/live-adjust-z_112427
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Nov 11, 2021 13:54
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There's an Octoprint plugin called Cancelobject that lets you cancel one item on a build plate of multiple items. I haven't mastered figuring out which is which in the list but it has saved a big build plate a couple of times. Oh and the print has to be sliced so it can tell the objects apart, I'm not sure that it will work in all instances since it's just filtering gcode to generate its list.
Rexxed fucked around with this message at 20:16 on Nov 11, 2021 |
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Nov 11, 2021 20:10
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MJP posted:Anyone wanna make $20? I wanna replace my dead Tronxy board with an SKR, Spider, or Octopus. If you can configure and compile Marlin for a Tronxy X5SA with a reverse geared direct drive extruder, and it works, I'll literally give you $20. I can give you the settings, I just can't for the life of me approach getting each and every single configuration setting right. I know it's too late at this point, but when I replaced the extruder on my Sunlu S8 and it required the stepper to run the other direction, I repinned the plug so it works backwards since I can adjust the steps from the interface on the printer but not the direction. Yeah, it was a lazy hack but it works and I didn't feel like trying to update the firmware on the mainboard or replace it.
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Nov 11, 2021 21:07
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MJP posted:I didn't have a crimper or the other stuff required to redo cables, crimps, etc. I ordered some a day or so before I blew out the board, so yeah, things I wish I'd told myself about in hindsight D: It would have saved me massive amounts of headache had I known, but you are very right in that I should have done that instead of listening to advice from the Tronxy Discord. You don't need to crimp anything for that, it can be tricky but you can push the conductors out of the plastic plug and put them back in a different order. Most printers use bipolar steppers so there's four conductors, two for each winding in the stepper. To reverse, one winding needs to run the other way, so you find the two pins for one of the motor winding and reverse them on the plug. I did use a little pin removal kit I got on ebay to get the connectors out of the plug and it's kind of a pain and a hack compared to updating the firmware, but it works and was fast. A small screwdriver can work, too. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AgyNM7FQrmk&t=108s You do have to be careful to make sure you aren't connecting the wires from one coil to another one somehow since that can often kill stepper drivers. Test the pins with a multimeter to be sure.
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Nov 11, 2021 22:14
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Creality's having a 11/11 sale: https://www.creality3dofficial.com/ from: https://slickdeals.net/f/15392110-creality-3d-printers-sale-ender-5-pro-301-ender-3-v2-204-50-more?src=frontpage quote:Creality 3D Official has select Creality 3D Printers/Resin/Filament on sale listed below. Shipping is free.
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Nov 12, 2021 01:30
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Not really an option because a) there's no PEI on the other side of the steel bed and b) the gouge is raised up so will make the plate uneven and wobbly. You can kind of try to put some kapton in the gouge but the best solutions are to print around the bad spot or replace the sheet.
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Nov 12, 2021 14:20
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Hekk posted:Yeah I have no idea other than I saw them mentioned for making your own curing station. I have never messed around with UV lights and wasn't sure how dangerous they are to the unprotected eye. A lot of stuff blocks UV but I wouldn't worry too much since most curing stations are at the top end of UV-A (the ones I see online are around 405nm). There do exist LEDs that can do UV-C but they were like $5-15 for a single LED at the beginning of covid and everyone just uses fluorescent tubes in disinfecting lights which will burn your eyes like the incident with the lamps from the filming of Blade 2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vwsHRrDYu5o
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Nov 14, 2021 22:38
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That's neat that they're not just making it a bigger printer but also folding in the optional toolchanging stuff to it. It's way out of my price range, I'm happy with my $200 Sunlu S8 that's been good since I replaced the stock extruder. Also "Original Prusa XL shipping is scheduled for Q2-Q3 2022". Ouch, but I guess it's understandable with the entire world having supply chain issues and likely high demand.
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Nov 18, 2021 14:09
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Zach Weinersmith knows what's up http://smbc-comics.com/comic/halt 
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Nov 23, 2021 21:22
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Deviant posted:the 3B+s seem to only have 1gb of ram available, which isn't enough for Octoprint? I thought I read they recommend at least 2gb. I've had good luck with Canakit sets. One of their kits I bought had a bad power supply and they shipped me another one after I contacted their support. It was replaced with two day shipping directly from Canakit. The RPi 3B and 3B+ only came with 1GB of RAM as far as I know. I'm using three of them for my three printers. I think I have two 3Bs and one 3B+ but I don't remember. I believe the main issue with Octoprint and raspberry pis is that if you're using a single core Pi then it may get bogged down a bit. This was mostly an issue for the Pi Zero W since it was a single core but the wifi stack took up a lot of CPU time. Foosel posted in this thread (woops the old thread) about it back in the day. I ran it without issue on a Raspberry Pi 1 for over a year without issue, but it is noticeably faster on a 3B. I wouldn't hesitate to get a Pi 4 since that's what's available now, even if it is overkill. Not sure about using Docker for multiple instances but it might work. I just try to keep my setup simple where each printer has its own Pi for it and I stick a label on each one with its static IP. Tom Sanladerer did a video recently about using Octoprint on old android phones so that's another option, but I think if you're buying something for it then a Pi is a good choice since it's the standard thing everyone uses and it can be used for other projects if you feel like changing it up later. It also seems like Octopi gets updated and there's no telling if the android version will continue to be worked on in 1, 2, 5 years. Since they're useful for a bunch of projects, I have some old Pis hanging out on my network as file dumps for when I want to share stuff between my machines and networks without logging into my NAS. I also plan to eventually setup a bird feeder camera that can take pictures of the birds which I think a goon did as a project a little while ago.
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Nov 24, 2021 18:44
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But then the cops will watch your 3d printer!
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Nov 24, 2021 20:40
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I was going to provide an alternate list of hardware to a canakit so you could just get a 2GB board if you want three of them. I didn't realize that the chip shortage had hit RPi production so badly and they're out of stock pretty much everywhere except for the bundle sellers. It makes using $50 android prepaid phone with an OTG cable a real consideration for the meantime.
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Nov 24, 2021 22:42
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| # ¿ May 8, 2024 16:09 |
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Uncle Jessy has a black friday 3d printer deals video. There's a lot of the resin printers and accessories on sale as well as some FDM stuff: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iaQt_eGdoQ4
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Nov 25, 2021 23:41
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