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If you bought an ender 3, buy this: https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Capricorn-Upgraded-Pneumatic-Bed-level/dp/B081DN6RM2/ It's $20. It solves most of the ender problems. Sagebrush posted:The early nozzles were machined directly into the heater block, so the size was a matter of whatever drill you wanted to use. Individually replaceable nozzles like we have now weren't a thing for the first several years. (I'm arbitrarily choosing the RepRap project as the beginning of the current era of 3D printing). .... I'm from that era...   I don't want to go back to that. Ever. I also spent most of last week trying to get a geeetech i3 to print properly. And being stopped becuase I can't be bothered to actually fit the anti wobble parts.
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Jul 21, 2021 09:10
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Dr Sun Try posted:as someone sourcing v0.1 parts atm: And when you print three, four times faster than a typical printer.... a small bed still works out pretty well. Also, it's cute. And for some of us, building a well integrated small machine is satisfying.
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Jul 24, 2021 17:51
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Well, it's the same for any decent CoreXY printer. Is it? A big printer takes more time to heat soak. Uses more power to maintain temp. "acutal print speed" might be the same, but startup is a thing.
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Jul 24, 2021 21:25
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Why do I feel a strong troll urge coming on.
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Jul 25, 2021 02:40
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mewse posted:I mean.. if the community thinks the klipper guys can be annoying.. they did such a bad job. we're better (worse?) than that. hahah.
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Jul 25, 2021 06:51
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The Eyes Have It posted:It's a nice design but yes, it's actually pretty expensive by the end in its own way. But compared to other options it's pretty compelling. Enclosures in general are just kind of expensive things unless you just use a photo tent or one of those soft grow op enclosure things and call it done. I'm doing mine out of coroplast. I expect to have it for less than $40.
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Aug 1, 2021 21:05
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The Eyes Have It posted:Haha, same. (Not the Prusa design, but my own. I had a feeling I wasn't the only one to see that stuff and get ideas.) I'm looking for good plastic rivets at the moment, but I"m also considering printing fasteners. Because... why not?
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Aug 1, 2021 22:11
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The Eyes Have It posted:I've used these for various things (like cardboard) in the past and was happy with them. You can push & lock them then snip off the excess. WELL... Looks like we have a thing to print today. Hah. Thank you, that's perfect.
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Aug 2, 2021 02:37
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The best feeling with 3d printing, is when you're watching the printer go, and can ~see~ the spool turn. With my current bed load, I'm doing around 9cubic milimeters a second, and spinning that spool at 1/3 of a RPM. This is your reminder, test your printer, test it's limits. Find where it fails. You don't need to ~fix~ those things, but know where you can go. Living at 20-30-40mm/s becasue "it's always worked" is not the way to be in this hobby.
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Aug 12, 2021 06:12
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Paradoxish posted:The original Ender 3 in my farm was basically free, but I bought my second v2 mostly because "cheap, reliable enough, will mostly pay for itself almost immediately" drastically outclassed any advantages I could imagine from a more expensive printer. There's a lot to be said about "you" being part of the printer. Prusa's tend to be able to barrel through less than sensitive users. If you're someone who can look at the start of a print and know the future... well.. there ya go. :-)
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Aug 12, 2021 07:09
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To pile on: My Ender 3 has been a workhorse. And after a year and a half, also printed the parts for my Voron. I did not intend on retiring it. But now that I have a 250mm cubed voron legacy... there's not much "space" for my ender anymore. List of upgrades: 1. Filament guide. This has been replaced once, as filament wore it out. 2. hard bed springs. 3. metal extruder head. 4. new cooling duct. 5. A variety of beds. 6. Filler strips for the frame to keep trash out of it. ........................ And the usual consumables. A bowden tube, some nozzles. If I needed a 3d printer somewhere "now" I'd buy another one. I'd have a printer up and running an hour after I got home. (As for what's my opinion is worth... I've used prusas, and they're lovely. A Taz6, a Taz4, Monoprice Mini Delta, Geeetech i3, Makerbot Replicator.)
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Aug 13, 2021 16:38
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my turn in the barrel posted:I've always thought 3d printers were neat since reading about the first RepRap years ago. CNC Kitchen (REal materials tests), Makers Muse (Good reviews, solid advice), Thomas Sandalarar (General projects, good reviews, good filament reviews, solid opinoins), BillieRubin (Artsy side of things), 3d printing nerd (A man playing with toys. It's great), SexyCyborg (Usually bleeding edge stuff, she's in shenzen so sees the stuff first), Proper Printing (Nerd pushing the edges of tech), Nero3dp (Practical printing advice, uses high end printers). That'll get you started. Things to avoid: TeachingTech (the reasons are long), Design Prototype Test (videos are mostly rant, with only rare nuggets of information, and lots of self ego stroking), really... most anything else..... It's uncommon to find "good" advice on 3d printing, and most of it is really quite, astoundingly, bad. You want the 3d benchy, as that's one of the best ways to tell if you're printer is working right. it'll help you diagnose ~most~ printer problems. Don't break out the PETG until the PLA is actually playing nice. PETG is a significant step up in difficulty, at least if you want "easy to use" prints after you've printed. And I am currently printing some parts for my Canik TS9. Some 2 round mag extensions, and a magwell flare. Ask here for advice. The stuff here.. is usually good. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Aug 14, 2021 |
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Aug 14, 2021 03:06
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TastyShrimpPlatter posted:I'm curious about the reasons for this Contrary to his name he doesn't "teach". His videos have a habit of being so tightly trimmed that there's no learning availble. It's a "here's what I did" but it's hollow, it shows none of where he went to learn the information, and doesn't usually cover any of his mistakes. And he essentially never does a useful explanation of what happened when things do go wrong. I believe his most recent videos might be somewhat better. But he's got years of stuff up there that is borderline ~bad~. Often in his video's it's obvious he has an idea of what he's doing, but doesn't explain. It's... empty content. "I did X-Y-Z isn't it neat, now you do it" But never shows the important how you do it. Or "here's ow to fix X" but never explains the cuases or why ~not~ to use the fix later. Getting a really good explanation of why he's ~so bad~ takes a lot of time, as I need to go watch a half dozen videos and take notes. But ~every single video~ does the same things where he screws up, or fails to explain a thing. He jumps to conclusions without explaining the justifications. He tells you to do X and leaves you hanging as to why. Or.. sometimes just gets it plain wrong. He also comes to "conclusions" based on very bad input data, and never addresses it. So, some examples to cover my butt because this just sounds like rants of a madman: In his printing in enclosures video, his tests were single tests, he didn't control enclosure temperature, and then didn't change the print settings for any material he used. And the conclusions he came to, are just.. wrong.. compared to say like.. an ultimater or voron. Ender 3 upgrade video, where he just threw poo poo at an ender. Things he said were essential and important upgrades, and came to a printer that didn't work any better. But why? why not. He didn't examine anything. These "upgrade" videos he did, have eaten a lot of my time because they were "things to do" not things that help at all. The BTT board upgrade, he talked about installing controllers, and this has caught a couple of my friends, where they installed new drivers, and they didn't work. you can't use a silent driver on the extruder because of a software issue in marlin. and he DID NOT MENTION THIS. This ate hours, and hours of time of me trying to help friends sort out their things. Among others..... I am not sure I am mad at him. But I am definitely sure he should not be watched as a noob at printing because so much of his material needs ~deep and broad~ knowledge on how printing works so you don't fall down the holes he's happily skipping over. And when you're at that point, why are you watching his noob level videos? Go watch CNC Kitchen and learn something useful real. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 23:07 on Aug 14, 2021 |
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Aug 14, 2021 22:25
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Which one was the covid denier from the previous thread? This isn't direct.... But things that make me uncomfortable. Ben Heck is a covid fatalist. EEVblog is in some kind of weird limbo. AvE is either fatalist or denier. I'm interested in this answer too.
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Aug 14, 2021 22:52
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becoming posted:I'm spoiled by my Prusa's PEI sheet I guess, because holy smokes I am not in love with scraping prints off this glass (Hamburgular was right, sticks like hot poo poo to a diaper). I'm looking pretty hard at TH3D's EZFlex 2 setup - are there any others that I should consider? Features I'm looking for are easy removal of the print, and easy removal of the print surface for cleaning. quote:I feel like there's still a decent amount of debate as to whether or not BLTouch is worth it on these machines. Anyone here in the E3 crew running BLTouch and have an opinion?
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Aug 15, 2021 23:51
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w00tmonger posted:Aquanet sounds familiar. There are definitely specific brands to use though so don't go nuts You want "cheap" stuff. Aquanet is, essentially PVA disolved in alcohol, IIRC. Cheap brands are going to be similar.
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Aug 16, 2021 01:45
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Toebone posted:A few more Ender 3 newbie questions: I printed a catch tray for between the Y rail and the control box. and infrequently used tools go in a otterbox like thing that I have behind the printer. If you're reaching for "real tools" often... something else ain't right. Magnetic steel sheet with PEI coating. But the stock magnetic sheet (I think it's polycarbonate topped) lasted me a year. I keep glue stick around, and alcohol for keeping the bed in shape. Get yellow springs, and a metal extruder.
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Sep 1, 2021 20:43
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Nero wonders: Why don't manufacturers put a gutter and drip hole around the screen so spills don't go "everywehre". While that is more expense.. as an aftermarket solution, why not vacuum form a polycarbonate tray to catch spills. *clickity clack* http://www.plasticgenius.com/2011/05/infrared-and-ultraviolet-transmission.html Oh, Polycarbonate goes opaque in the UV spectrum. gently caress. Ok, how about UV transparent plastic... https://www.agriculturesolutions.co...YkaAgDOEALw_wcB Maybe that could be vacuformed into disposable trays to put over your screen? Then you'd have a disposable "cup" to put on your printer. A little more digging, says acrylic is UV transmitting, so cast acrylic tray? I also think it can be thermally formed, if not straight up vacuum formed if you're careful and keep the water out of it. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 06:54 on Sep 3, 2021 |
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Sep 3, 2021 06:50
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Hello Braintrust. I need help. Odor, and potentially chemistry help. Running a resin printer. In a basement. The smell starts.. to get serious. And my buddy with the printer, is concerned for the health of people in the household. There's two questions: First, is about how to manage things. How do you deal with resin printer smells? Are you concerned about them? The thoughts that come to mind are, in order, ventilating the enclosure to the outside. Building a warmed box to run the printer in a garage. Finally, a heavy duty carbon filter in an enclosure inside. In a rather involved conversation Friday, we got into the toxicity of resin. We know that the resin itself, is toxic. But what about the materials that do vaporize from an open bath of resin. What is the component that's evaporating? Is that component toxic? Resin is toxic... Have I missed the rash of long term effects of dealing with resin?
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Oct 4, 2021 08:51
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Hamburlgar posted:Yeah... nowhere have I, or anyone else, said the Creality machines are flawless. They’re anything but flawless. But their flaws are easily offset with a few easy to install upgrades, totaling maybe $350 including the machine itself ($250). Are we really here again? GonadTheBallbarian posted:I mean I'm of the mind that yes, you'll always have to tinker, but the hot glue and tinned leads are enough to steer people away. The E3v2 is an incomplete product and that's not what most people sign up to buy when they spend that kind of money on something Hot glue and tinned leads are common in ALL SORTS of devices in your home. poverty goat posted:I'm not afraid of tinkering, I've spent hours on this printer already and I'd be happy to build one completely from a kit if the value was right, but I have to insist that the box includes a full set of working parts Then.. yaknow.. return it.. if it doesn't come with bits. Enders, and I mean all enders, print out of the box. My sample size is reasonable. (about 12?) This puts creality a good step ahead of a lot of the smaller vendors. They ~work~. The biggest problem I have with complaints on 3d printers, is that they aren't ~a printer~. At least, how we think of printers. They're CNC machines. And to our benifit, they come as COMPLETE CNC machines. If you've ever priced out machine tools, you'll find that the vast majority of them come with a hilariously inept set of basic parts, and frequently, are plain ~not functional~ if you buy just the machine. poverty goat posted:You'll never convince me that creality is cool and good for continuing to ship printers with useless warped beds after the problems came to light. If nerds had held them to account like literally any tool or computer supplier would be for shipping defective equipment maybe they'd have had reason to get their poo poo together. Warped beds work. But your logic doesn't work here... And there's a cost to what you're saying. The cost, is ~literal~ cost. The cost for a cast aluminum bed for my ender was $45. The whole printer was $200. Practical terms, this would have made me not get into this end of CNC. The bed alone for my V0 is $30. The bed for my Legacy? $60. If you want "something better" the scale is there. There's printers at the consumer level, for every dollar range from $100 through $2000 or so. Creality is a business. As (especially) Chinese businesses go, they're pretty decent on most levels. poverty goat posted:Sorry to anyone I berated earlier, the printer and I had a bad morning and spooky, inexplicably things were happening with that thing that stopped me from really even testing the extruder I'd just torn down and put back together. I might have been naive getting into this but the plan when I impulse bought the mystery box was always to avail myself of the amazon return policy if I couldn't get anything out of it, and I think it's headed right where it belongs. quote:I learned a lot from my Ender 3 v2 and put that to work ordering an Anycubic i3 Mega S for 199 based on recurring themes in reviews that it works out of the box, doesn't need any extra parts to perform really well and is well supported by the company I'm still not sold on the e3v2. I don't like the screen. And coming with a glass bed was how they deal with people eating the magnetic sheet. If I were them, I'd be shipping it with a garolite bed, instead of glass. But I think the choice of glass is driven by "the community" instead of what's best. *shrugs* The big selling point of it is that it has the silent driver board. Everything else about it.. doesn't make me happier about the machine. That said... I've moved up in the world. You're here late. (to the party, that is) And I'm sorry. What you're going to find, especially anywhere BUT here. Is that the 3d printing community, in general, doesn't know it's rear end from a hole in the ground. I could write a LOT about that. It's really frustrating. I've left most f the groups I've been in about 3d printing because of how entrenched bad advice is. And lovely people are. Voron is an exception to this. As is VoidStarLabs.
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Oct 4, 2021 09:29
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snail posted:It's styrene you can probably smell, and we already know styrene to be bad for long term health. quote:TL;DR if you can smell it, it's giving off something. Even if you can't smell it, it may well be giving off something. biracial bear for uncut posted:Oh, word? Name a device with moving parts where those hot glue and tinned leads are routed along said moving parts and attached to heaters at the other end. Hadlock posted:Is there a magic setting that will shut down (or at least disable the fans, including power supply fans) my ender 3 v2 after the print finishes, particularly using prusaslicer. I usually kick off a print around midnight and it wraps up right before my wife needs to use that room Cranky as he might be.... Biracal bear is on the right track. But, you can trick the printer into shutting itself off, with a switch on.. say.. the Z axis that'll flip a power switch at max height. All you'd need to do, is add a line of code that sends the Z up, and boom, it's off. I've seen it done with bed movement too. ----------------------------------- On the subject of "if you can smell it, it's a problem". Well... that's a bit of a trick for me. I can smell PLA, PETG, no matter what. From ~rooms away~. My nose twitches at the end of my driveway when someone is running the dryer with a dryer sheet in it. I'll smell the orange that's just started to go moldy from the front door, when nobody else can smell it. My nose is notoriously sensitive, so "if you can smell it" is rarely a good measure for me. It's nice on some levels, it sucks on others. It means I need to know what an odor is. And I can then know if I can do my best to ignore it, or if it's a danger. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 11:51 on Oct 4, 2021 |
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Oct 4, 2021 11:36
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Javid posted:if she's crammed in that close with it, why can't she just manually turn off the switch when it's stopped printing? Two years in, and I still can't get other household members to turn a printer off.
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Oct 4, 2021 17:52
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Hadlock posted:What causes this weird striping pattern. Prusaslicer v2.3.x; ender 3 v2 You're to close to the bed.
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Oct 7, 2021 13:43
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Either you're too close to the bed or there is some fuckery going on with the filament diameter. I think he's got a loose carriage as well. Or a loose print head. Between the two, you'd get that sort of variance. AS WELL as being to close to the bed.
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Oct 7, 2021 15:38
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Ghostnuke posted:does the prusa need engineering precision to assemble like the ender? or should I spring for the assembled one? Everything here, speaks of "I'm fighting this on my own, and i'm searching google/facebook for advice". I posted this just a page ago, but the vast majority of what you'll find on the easily searched internet is utter poo poo. A poorly assembled ender, will print JUST FINE, but will print items that aren't quite square. So.. not even the ender needs engineering precision. I'm not sure which way to go here. I could talk about the printers you suggested, but that would be a page of text, which all amounts to "they're built to a dollar, they have terrible hot ends, they're fragile, and hard to get parts for.". In the sub $1000 printer range, you're not going to find a printer that's ~just gonna work~ all the time short of a Prusa. What's missing here, is knowledge. Printers all do the same thing. They're a CNC platform, that has a hot glue nozzle on it. You need to know what the bed materials, and the extruded materials do. You've gone on for half a page about being "done with your ender 3v2" but.. so far, I have no idea what your trouble is. At least 80% of the time, people who give up on a printer, are doing so for reasons that aren't the fault of the printer, and could just as easily happen with whatever replacement they're looking at. So lets do it. Ghostnuke posted:I've upgraded the bowden tube and connectors, and the the extruder. I've tinkered with it for hours and hours and hours. The stock bowden and connectors are fine. I ran with them for more than a year. I have capricorn tubing on mine now, because the price difference wasn't significant. You're willing to spend $400 on a new printer, right? I"m assuming you're paid less than $100 an hour. Give me two hours. 1. Make sure your carriages are all tight. The bed shouldn't wiggle. The hot end shouldn't wiggle. you shouldn't be able to hear any sort of click/rattle if you push the Y bar forward or back. 2. Put your glass bed, smooth side up. Put some glue stick on it. 3. With the bed at 60deg, and the hot end at 190c, use a crisp dollar bill, and use that to set your nozzle height. I disable the steppers and move the head manually for this. You should feel ~slight~ drag between the bill and the nozzle when moving the bill under the print head. 4. Print something with it, using PLA. Take photos for us. We can diagnose ANY problem from photos. Ideally print one of the pre-sliced things that comes with the printer, as i don't know about you, and how you treat slicers. 5. Don't tinker. Just do the thing, see if it works, and we'll help you figure it out. If we can get you that far. You should order some yellow springs for the bed, and some kind of good surface to print on. (I don't actually care that this is an ender. I am seeing a set of problems that will happen no matter what you get.)
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Oct 8, 2021 15:47
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Ghostnuke posted:You definitely have a point, and I've gotten some semi-decent prints out of it. But it always takes 3-4 tries and then when I go to print something else it's poo poo again and I have to tinker until I either give up or it works finally. Nerobro posted:Everything here, speaks of "I'm fighting this on my own, and i'm searching google/facebook for advice". Ghostnuke posted:1) Have done this, even within the last few days. I followed these 2 videos to do the assembly - Edit: JFC, 80 minutes of "how to assemble an ender". I had mine, built, including two mistakes, in 30 minutes. quote:3) Have done this, approximately 1 trillion times. quote:4) I can take a pic when I get home, but I had a model going for a day or two. Seemed to be going ok-ish, but I came home yesterday and it had layer shifted everything and kept printing, ruining the print. Another common failure is supports not getting printed properly. They just turn into a tangled mess. quote:I don't want to sound flippant, or that I'm disregarding your suggestions, I really have tried all those things. I've done so much reading about calibration and slicer settings, I feel like I've tried everything, but that's probably not true. I guess what I'm saying is that that quote that comes around the thread fairly often "Decide whether you want your hobby to be 3d printing, or tinkering with 3d printers" is pretty true, and that I want my hobby to be 3d printing. You should print a benchy. :-) Once you're printing, that is. Edit: Who's worth paying attention to on youtube about 3d printing: Thomas Sandalar, CNC Kitchen, Makers Muse, 3d Printing Nerd, Nero3dp, CHEP.... Those are the best off the top of my head. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 18:47 on Oct 8, 2021 |
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Oct 8, 2021 18:40
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biracial bear for uncut posted:I would ditch 3d Printing Nerd altogether. He actually reviewed and endorsed Robo3D printers as late as their R2/C2 machines (last I looked) and had the gall to say they were good machines even after all the horse poo poo he had in his videos about the broken parts and constant back and forth with the company to even get a working demo model to review. Perhaps. But he's also one of the few youtubers who goes and checks out the wild edges. His latest videos from the manufacturing expo show off things that you just.. won't see anywhere else. He's still not of the level of teaching tech. *shivers* That dude has cost me 20 hours that I can specifically track.
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Oct 8, 2021 19:42
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poverty goat posted:my printer has been cranking continuously since last night and the only thing it's come close to loving up was this dude Awesome for getting things to print. First, the long leg pig? That needed supports. Also, there's a layer shift there, and it appears you've got something going on with your extrusion. You should stop, and tune up that printer, you'll have a much better time in the future, if you get things right ~now~. Print us a benchy, will you?
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Oct 10, 2021 14:23
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Hadlock posted:Oh, interesting, stratasys is the reason why Prusa, creality etc don't sell enclosures for their printers? I guess their patent expired early this year. Very curious to see what the Mk4 Prusa looks like As I recall, the entirety of home 3d printing only started when one of their patents expired. And it's why we don't have production laser sintering for home printers.
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Oct 15, 2021 06:50
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 I want to know more about the makergear micro 3d printer. Anyone have any leads on it?
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Oct 15, 2021 21:30
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SEKCobra posted:Trying really hard to convince myself that I can somehow use a second printer, but I really don't know how. The optimum number of printers is two. With one idle most of the time. I will often start print jobs in the day(s) length. Having another printer where I can print the "hours" type job... is nice.
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Oct 16, 2021 09:08
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Important about the whole voron circlejerk. The things that make a voron good, you can do on almost any other printer. For instance, the good bed leveling? Order some cast aluminum off of ebay, trim it to size, and viola, you get that lovely smooth bed that makes Voron's easy to deal with. You want a good print head? You can steal voron's. Or just take some time to sort out what makes a good print head. You want the fancy software? You can do that too. An ender 3 V2 with the voron treatment is both a rocket ship, and puts out good parts. And it's not expensive or hard. Roundboy posted:Totally not going to even try until i understand this current printer fully and troubleshoot all issues I have to keep repeating this, becuase it keeps happening. Searching the internet for answers. Following most of youtube for answers. Folliowing facebook for answers. Will lead you to doing circles like you have been. It's torture, it's assinine. And... I don't want to see you doing it. Leveling your bed should be "when you swap nozzles" or "when you accidently stepped on the bed" Not a thing you do on the regular. Bowden style printers work fine, and CAN print TPU just fine. Creality sells fine motion systems. But the "everything else" is built to a price. Don't make a cable chain. And... we're here to help.
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Oct 21, 2021 20:40
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ImplicitAssembler posted:No, it's not. It's better, sure, but you're still acceleration limited on the bed. You are. But so is at least 2/3 of the printer market. With the stock board I can print at 150mm/s on my ender 3.... I recall seeing some samples from UberNero doing 250mm/s with just klipper and input shaping. It'll get you there. and it'll get you there without the 12-20 hour assembly process. (While we're at it, how do you spend 4 hours assembling an ender?) biracial bear for uncut posted:Gotta love when people push bed slingers faster than they're designed to go and then go all "Why am I getting random layer shifts when printing large objects or with settings where the printer is likely to make a long rapid position change on the Y-axis between layers?" I've only run into maybe two incidents where people were legitimately losing steps due to trying to drive the printer to fast. And the third I can think of was me intentionally trying to see when the printer would fail. Reasons for lost steps, in order of those I've run into: Bad slicer settings, usually printing to cold, and the print interfereing with the head. I lost count on how much this was the issue. Bad assembly - Belts to loose. (I've seen this dozens of times.) Bad assembly - belt inside out. (I've seen this.. maybe two dozen times.) Bad assembly - pulley loose on motor. (I've seen this ten-ish times) Bad motor. (I've seen this half a dozen times) Bad tuning - My motor is to hot! (I've seen this four or five times) Bad tuning - My motor current is to low. (Three or four times) Bad tuning - My acceleration is to high. (twice? maybe..) Nerobro fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Oct 21, 2021 |
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Oct 21, 2021 21:02
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Jadius posted:I messed up my lower back/hip pretty bad a week ago so I'm kinda slow doing anything right now. I also didn't even open the instructions and instead went off of a YouTube video that wasn't exactly clear at all times so I kept putting it together only to find that something was in backwards or upside down so I'd have to take huge portions of it apart just to put them back together the right way. I'm sorry you're hurt. That sucks. And now you're an example of why so many people have trouble. *sighs* The information you needed should have been available, and easy to digest. Not slogging through videos. ImplicitAssembler posted:And how much of the time is it actually running 150mm/s? That question misses the point entirely. It doesn't matter. I get my prints off the bed in half the time (usually..) and the quality is just as good as at 50. And I'm sure I could do better, if I spent some time at it. Yaknow, tape a kilo of filament to the bed, and test to see how fast the X stepper can go. (I might do that...) snail posted:It's a CNC machine, of course you should. When you find out two months later that every single one of your parts is .75% small in one dimension, 1.1% small in another, and .5% small in another dimension. And now every part you printed, is now directional... .......................Not that I ever did that.... insta posted:Anyone now looking for Voron 2.4's: I think I agree with this. The trident is what voron was meant to be.
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Oct 21, 2021 22:26
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Lol, of course it matters. If your print speed isn't hitting 150mm/s, you aren't printing at that speed. The whole point is that you're acceleration limited on the bed flingers to a much higher extent than the corexy, hence it's the corexy's (and 1 extremely souped up delta) that are setting the speed records, not ender3s. No, you're not ~wrong~ in that other kinematic systems can accelerate harder. But you're also missing the point. 150mms, gets me better print times than 100mm/s on a benchy, so yeah, it's hitting 150mm/s. With the stock accelerations. So there's your speedo, it's hitting it. I think it was around 250mm/s that the stock accelerations stop getting better times on a benchy, but that was more than a year ago. From what I have seen, most printers are hot end or cooling limited anyway, so "better" is like having a veyron and you're still stuck in downtown london. (it's a car analogy!) Roundboy posted:I have the following questions trying to keep up with all these topics: The trident is a coreXY with a dropping bed design. The previous model of moving bed voron had a two post design, and loads could tip the bed and you had the manually level it front to back. The trident uses three point leveling so removes that entirely, and gains you most of the benefit of the 2.4. Essentially every printer these days uses steppers on all axies, but they may change "how" they operate the steppers. This is a much longer discussion, but the Voron 1.X series was more or less an ender 5 setup with a corexy top end. The creality printers are limited to that 50ish mm/s thing due to part cooling. Their part cooling fan can't keep up with .. really.. even 50mm/s. A new part cooling duct will take you to 120mm/s with good quality. A bit more cooling (aftermarket fan..) and 150 is yours for every print you do. That's literally all it takes. As for bed leveling, you're falling down that hole that will kill this hobby for you. My ender has eaten dozens of kilograms. I've leveled it, outside of a nozzle change, less than 10 times. Sagebrush posted:all you voron people are riding high at the moment, but prusa's corexy with toolchanging is on the way and oh boy if you think i'm smug now, just wait The problem is the "not voron people" running around with voron hats on. There's only like.. 4000 of them registered. I'd bet creality does that on a monthly basis. They're just collected good ideas. They're not magic. All these people going "well it gotta be a voron" are just... I can't even come up with a word for it. Maybe it's people who think they understand what is going on with "a voron". Regardless, it's dumb. mystes posted:Ok I guess I have to go learn how to level it properly. How did you set your nozzle to bed distance? It sounds like an adhesion issue, and there's a lot of reasons for that. There's tests we can run, and help you get things right. Bashing your head on tramming the bed was a thing from three pages ago. Don't. Do. That. Best thing you can do, is start a print. Ideally a benchy, and take a photo of that first layer, and when it fails. While it's on your printer. And we can help.
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Oct 22, 2021 00:33
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mystes posted:I think the nozzle was just way too far from the bed. I guess now that I think about it, it's obvious that if it's too far the filament will cool before it can stick to the bed. The printer has an option to move to each corner for leveling via knobs that I just understood how to use and now it's hopefully a proper paper's width everywhere. Depending on the filament, and the state of the bed, "airdropping" filament onto the build surface can work just fine. Before I got the frame squared on my delta, I'd have to run rafts, an half the raft was built up of, filament that was just kinda squirted over the bed. Proper squish helps though. Billie Ruben made a great set of posters, one, is specifically about bed leveling.  While we're at it, here's voron's tuning guide: https://github.com/AndrewEllis93/Print-Tuning-Guide#marlin-method-advanced
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Oct 22, 2021 00:43
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And because it came up today. 3d printing is full of... red herring terms. For instance, my buddy is having trouble with his extruder. It's that fancy one that uses a remote cable drive and remote mount motor, to have a direct drive, lightweight head. Buddy: I have *name of extruder* Me: OH.. the bowden drive extruder. Buddy: No, it's direct drive, with a remote motor. Me: The cable system used to drive the extruder, is a bowden cable..... "Reverse bowden" which is a term that comes up in voron? No, that's a guide tube, or a hose, or something. But hardly.. bowden. Unless you wanna call a hawsepipe a bowden too? And there's "leveling" which we just covered. (It's tramming.. sorta..) They call the ridged things that drive filament gears, while most are drive pulleys. they're not gears in any meaningful sense. This also came up today for me..... because my family made gears for .. oh.. 60 years. So I have something to say about how gears work. I talk about gears, and 3d printing people can't decide, is it the drive pulley, or the actual drive gears. And because of people being so gung-ho on dual gear drive extruders, it matters. Most of those extruders have no gear lash compensation, which means your gear teeth aren't properly lashed, and you get a cyclic synchronization issue between the two gear teeth. Leading to (as voron people call it) Issue 6. I want to play prescriptionist about this, but language is gonna do what language does. It's still frustrating when people use unclear language for what they're talking about. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 00:59 on Oct 22, 2021 |
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Oct 22, 2021 00:56
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mystes posted:Thanks that poster looks really helpful. Yes. Ideally somewhere in the middle, or lower part of the travel with the springs compressed on the bed. The Z sets how low it can be, and you raise the bed to meet it. The tighter the bed spring are, however, the better. Billie has a series of posters. They're good. https://www.billieruben.info/post/my-3d-printing-posters-1 Mind.. her blog has some adult adjacent things on it. (she shows how to make molds for *ahem* toys) Nerobro fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Oct 22, 2021 |
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Oct 22, 2021 01:01
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Bowden cables are push-pull, he's referring to a flex-drive cable, usually more commonly called flex-shafts. Bowden cables can also do rotation. The cables for tachometers, speedometers, are also bowden cables.
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Oct 22, 2021 04:25
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canyoneer posted:*snip* Ya'll done a service here. Thank you.
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Oct 23, 2021 01:37
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