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Nerobro posted:Why do I feel a strong troll urge coming on. I mean.. if the community thinks the klipper guys can be annoying..
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Jul 25, 2021 06:48
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Doctor Zero posted:My Prusa MK3+ has become my workhorse for that stuff. If you're seriously considering it I'd recommend Tom Sanladerer's live stream build. It will take hours + hours to watch but you will see the gotchas he ran into, and it is significantly more complex to build than the MK3. He also had a custom wiring harness built for him which might be something most people have to do themselves.
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Jul 25, 2021 18:16
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Doctor Zero posted:Cool thanks. I was thinking to make this sort of a long term, take my time thing. I haven't built one myself, just watched maybe half the stream, the most complicated parts seemed like doing the wiring and the heat-set inserts in a lot of parts. Also the heat bed is so powerful it warped the acrylic panel on the bottom of Tom's printer.. if I were building it I'd probably go with a high flow dragon hot end rather than the sponsored one Tom used
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Jul 25, 2021 21:12
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Acid Reflux posted:LOL What filament are you running?
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Aug 11, 2021 15:33
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withak posted:What is the rate of change of jerk called. I think after jerk it's (not a joke) snap crackle and pop
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Aug 13, 2021 17:07
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smax posted:Ugh. My Prusa MK3S+ sat for about 3 months and is now giving me fits. I'm trying to print some fairly simple brackets and it's making me want to pull my hair out. The thing printed great the last time I used it, and is generally stock on the parts that matter, aside from a Nozzle X with a hot end sock. I had to loctite the grub screw on the Y-axis belt pulley when that happened to me. Pre-built Prusa MK2S
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Aug 13, 2021 20:41
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Not sure if this is a dumb question but the problem is that when I try to google this I'm either finding old information or people saying "Don't do it like that, do it like this." I just got my Ender 3 set up again after a move, but I can't find the USB - Micro SD adapter, the Micro SD card was still in the printer. I've got a USB cable I can use to connect to the Ender 3 but I'm not sure how to send the print over that. Everyone is saying to use the SD card, but the problem is that the nearest place that even might have either a USB to Micro SD adapter or a Micro SD to SD adapter is about 30 minutes away, if not maybe a bit more. So I would really prefer to order an adapter and just make do with a USB cable until it gets here. I know that if the computer goes to sleep that can kill the print, but the first thing I'm doing is just checking the bed leveling, then I'll be doing a prototype of a part that will take 2 hours, and I'll be on the computer all day so it's not an issue. If you hook up a computer directly to the printer via usb you can use something like pronterface to drip feed the gcode file to the printer via the serial interface. Ender 3 pro baud rate is apparently 250000
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Aug 20, 2021 21:35
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The USB serial interface is also how octoprint delivers gcode to the printer which might be worth looking into since you're bypassing the sd card anyway 
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Aug 20, 2021 22:58
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poverty goat posted:You all should be ashamed of yourselves for putting up w/ this poo poo and not returning this garbage immediately. Ah yes all those posts about creality being 100% flawless, we should be ashamed of ourselves
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Oct 2, 2021 17:04
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Unperson_47 posted:I just recently came back to 3D printing after about a year and I'm looking to buy some filament. What manufacturers do y'all recommend? I'm looking for 1.75mm ABS so I can smooth the finished prints in an acetone vapor chamber. I've found esun abs+ to be the nicest to print after being recommended by someone here. Has less warpage than standard abs. Other brands probably have similar formulations now
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Oct 7, 2021 13:36
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I burned up a controller board on my hypercube build trying to install tmc2100 drivers into it. Anyone have a suggestion for a really simple/cheap board that will run marlin 2.0 or reprap firmware with tmc drivers? The requirements are modest: 2 motor corexy, single Z motor, I'd like to have "smart" hot end fan in addition to part cooling fan. I actually ordered a "Cloned Duet 2 Wifi V1.04" but it never shipped and I got a refund, wondering if there's something better.
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Oct 14, 2021 15:24
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biracial bear for uncut posted:First thing to do is figure out how you did this, otherwise it won't matter what board you purchase because you'll likely repeat the mistake. It wasn't software, I wasn't setting the jumpers properly or putting the driver board in the correct direction and shocker something shorted out
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Oct 14, 2021 15:43
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Nerobro posted:
Looks like this github repo has details: https://github.com/MakerGear/MakerGear_Micro
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Oct 15, 2021 21:46
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snail posted:I think I'll make one for the fun of it. I don't know what else to do with the remains of my departed printers. Have you figured out dimensions of the print bed? It doesn't seem to be listed in the install instructions other than saying it's sanded acrylic. I don't think it's heated either
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Oct 18, 2021 07:22
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DarkAvenger211 posted:
Maybe it's a v5 clone rather than a v6? That heat break sucks though
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Oct 18, 2021 19:24
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Even the V5 had a narrow throat between the hot side / cold side on the heat break. I've never seen a nut used as a spacer on a heatbreak, that seems like a miserable cost cutting measure. If you swap for a ubiquitous v6 clone you won't have to worry about nozzle length ever again.
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Oct 18, 2021 19:36
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DarkAvenger211 posted:My main issue is just stringing, do you think it could help in this case? That printer you have uses a bowden setup (extruder motor is separated from the hot end via a teflon tube) and it could be your retraction setting causing the stringing. 5mm retraction used to be recommended for bowden setups, although I think it's lower for ender 3 types because the extruder motor rides the x carriage and the bowden tube is shorter. But the nozzle sticking that far out of the hot end is not good for thermals.
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Oct 18, 2021 20:10
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If you’re setting up in the laundry room then piping into the dryer vent is probably the easiest way to send air outside
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Oct 19, 2021 17:01
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Deviant posted:and i'm wondering what could provoke that. Maybe globs accumulating on the nozzle and getting trapped in the part, could be overextrusion
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Oct 23, 2021 17:23
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Tom's latest video is super interesting, you can repurpose old android phones as octoprint hosts https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=74xdib_-X38
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Nov 5, 2021 16:44
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Cory Parsnipson posted:I now think I got a defective fan from the beginning because a lot of times when I ran the self test, it would ask me if both fans were spinning and then just said everything was fine when I entered in "yes". Every time except one, both fans were spinning. You may have had a defective 5015 from the start but that part of the self-test is just because the electronics don't read the tachometer wire coming from the fan so they get you to visually confirm that they're spinning
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Nov 9, 2021 04:55
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Deviant posted:Have they changed this? Neither of my prusas ever asked me if the fans were spinning, they autodetected. Oh it might've changed for the mk3 control board, my experience was with mk2/mk2.5
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Nov 9, 2021 05:26
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Are there any resources out there for aftermarket fan designs for the Ender 3? I swear I have an extra itsy bitsy fan around here somewhere and it would be nice to print a shroud that cools the heatsink and the part on separate fans so I can fine-tune high temperature filaments. I'm sure there's a lot out there but fluid dynamics is a specialized field and a lot of stuff for printers is just made because it looks cool. Ender 3 has separate hot end and part cooling fans already. The hot end heatsink fan is a standard 4010 and the part cooling is a less common 40mm blower. On the ender 3 v2 they're 24v which is less common. A satsana fan duct is a very easy upgrade to the stock shroud, I recently put one on my voxelab aquila (ender 3 v2 clone).
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Nov 22, 2021 00:19
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I guess I should probably be printing out of ABS or some other high-temp filament given the amount of hot air that will be flowing through these and the proximity to the hotend? Satsana in particular is fine as PLA, the ducts aren't close enough to the hot end to warp, and the heat block should have a silicone sock
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Nov 22, 2021 05:33
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GotDonuts posted:https://www.amazon.com/WINSINN-Cooling-Creality-Brushless-Hydraulic/dp/B07NQ2B11H?th=1 Should work, I watched a set of youtube vids on the voxelab aquila where he installed rgb winnsinn fans and made the printer noticeably quieter
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Nov 23, 2021 05:06
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Roundboy posted:but when it gets to the ender (3v2 board revision 4.2.2) it simply can't do those movements so its internally translated to small x/y movements anyway. ... all movements will eventually get translated to small x/y movements on a cartesian machine.
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Nov 23, 2021 18:20
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Right, but any controller worth using can do the math to produce a much smoother arc than most slicers will output without producing ridiculously long strings of code output. I'm just taking issue with the "klipper is doing magic" thing when a 32-bit control board not running klipper can interpolate an arc just fine
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Nov 23, 2021 19:34
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Deviant posted:Right then. I in theory need $num_printers * (raspi setup + c270 camera), then. Anything else? If you're just reading anecdotes about power panic I think you should just get your setup going and then try pulling the power cord from the wall and see what happens. I wouldn't trust random guy on the internet for their opinion on how the feature is going to function.
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Nov 24, 2021 19:16
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The core functionality of octoprint is sending text over a serial connection so...
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Nov 24, 2021 21:55
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DarkAvenger211 posted:Seems pretty straightforward but I want to make sure I don't mess this up. Obviously the copper bit goes into the heatsink (smooth side in), but I'm not so sure about the top, Do I just put that black cap with the orange clip in the top? It will fit and I've already tried, but I have a hard time getting the filament tube into it after that so I'm questioning whether or not I'm missing something here. My old heatsink has a little bowden adapter that's screwed into the top, that existing adapter doesn't screw into the new one so I'm out of luck there. The little black collar thing is a flush(ish) bowden fitting that they moved to with the v6 to get away with those screw-in pneumatic couplers, you aren't missing something. If the shorter threaded end of the heatbreak threads into the existing heat block then you're probably fine to keep using it. I'd advise referring to the official v6 assembly instructions, tightening the nozzle against the heatbreak while hot and assembled inside the heater block is an important part of the process that's best described in the official docs.
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Nov 27, 2021 00:06
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DarkAvenger211 posted:So I did a bit more fiddling with my new heatsink/heatbreak. I took off the covering on the heatblock so I could see the small gap a bit more clearly and to make sure it wasn't actually touching, the gap's small but maybe that's fine? That insulation was going to protect the plastic shroud from warping near the heater block. Can you lower the Z endstop rather than getting longer bed screws?
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Nov 28, 2021 16:54
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Rexxed posted:Time to flush all the orbeez I use to dry my filament down the crapper. What could go wrong? Holy poo poo
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Nov 29, 2021 19:10
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biracial bear for uncut posted:I don't know anybody that bothers with 3rd party enclosures that can speak to whether that thing will dampen the noise any more than popping the printer into a $20 popup greenhouse (the kind intended for single plants). The creality soft enclosure probably fits a prusa fine too, cheaper than that french kit
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Nov 29, 2021 21:18
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Noise can't travel through a vacuum, do you have a vacuum?
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Nov 29, 2021 21:40
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One of the main E3D guys passed away  https://e3d-online.com/blogs/news/sanjaymortimer
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Dec 1, 2021 15:47
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Morbid curiosity has me wondering what the cause was, he was only 32. There's the big obvious one that is usually safe to assume when cause of death isn't mentioned, but I do hope that's not what happened, he was always so kind when doing interviews for youtube
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Dec 1, 2021 16:27
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Roundboy posted:Watching a voron build with Thomas Sanladerer has me really, REALLY inspired. I see some of the issues he has with cheap kits, and the voron site itself puts out a decent packing list of the screws and things you need. I don't mind sourcing things as needed to slowly gather it all together, but is there a good resource to help me determine what is low vs high quality parts and where its needed? I get I can aliexpress the 2 kg of screws needed, but will i die in a fire if I get the aluminum extruded frames from them as well? I built a prusa mk2 clone using Tom's "dolly" build as a guide and it was a big pain in the rear end getting all the small parts from different aliexpress vendors. I think you probably want to start with a kit just so you at least have the frame and fasteners (mostly) covered. Trianglelabs on aliexpress seems to be highly regarded for cheap+good hot end/extruder parts. mewse fucked around with this message at 21:58 on Dec 1, 2021 |
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Dec 1, 2021 21:55
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Roundboy posted:Its been said, but its also important on small areas the nozzle stays over (think the smoke stack on a benchy) it needs cooling to prevent just the proximity of the nozzle making it a melty mess. Yeah especially for PLA you want the plastic solidifying almost as soon as it leaves the nozzle, an aggressive part cooling fan gives better prints. For ABS you want it toned down to get better layer adhesion and less warping. Slicer pre-sets usually have good starting points for the different materials.
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Dec 18, 2021 18:35
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Vaporware posted:If I want to go to microcenter and get a microswiss mk8 0.8 nozzle, I assume it's a decent quality? I don't feel like trying to get anything shipped right now, and I want to print faster Try 0.6 first.. using the area of a circle calculation, 0.4 is 0.50mm^2 and 0.6 is 1.13mm^2, ie. more than double. 0.8 is 2.0mm^2, quadruple the hole size. Haven't heard complaints about microswiss quality, just the price
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Dec 19, 2021 04:45
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| # ¿ May 9, 2024 13:55 |
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Is that right? Is there a dummies guide that goes a bit more in-depth into what's going on in there? Like I say, I've no particular reason to ask, I just like to be able to visualise how systems work to help me when they suddenly don't work. When the heat break / heat sink aren't working properly it causes a problem called heat creep where the melt happens further up the assembly and causes unpredictable results. I don't know of any docs/videos that go into more detail than what you've written up, but CNC kitchen has made some videos recently on high flow setups (beginning with the new bondtech CHT nozzle) that really exhibits how they fail when you push them to their limits w/r/t flow rate. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UNJdv5bFGOg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWDErj-pE1c https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TdndOILeaIo
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Dec 28, 2021 04:43
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