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landgrabber posted:gently caress this loving instrument god loving damnit Preach, sister.
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Jul 9, 2022 17:23
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Major Operation posted:I haven’t seen recommendations to pay for Fender over Squier for quality reasons in a long time. I don’t know how true it is but I’ve seen people saying they think Squier QC is better than Fender these days. I have a 2004 Bullet I got on CL for like $75 and it’s like, fine. Once I replaced the tuners anyway, the stock ones were pretty poo poo, but that’s an easy job with a bit of legwork to make sure you’re buying the right diameter replacements. I don’t play it much but that’s just because I dislike the neck shape, not because there’s anything actually wrong with it - I’ve just found I strongly prefer very thin necks.
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Aug 2, 2022 19:59
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Clayton Bigsby posted:So I guess there's some sort of interference at play here. The wiring is fairly "generous" from the factory so they folded it over a few times; could this be acting as an antenna of sorts? Wondering if I should get some copper tape and just shield the control cavity for starters. This seems more likely than the pickups to me. I’d recommend looking into copper foil; I haven’t used it personally but I’ve heard it’s easier than copper tape which I can confirm is a pain in the rear end.
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Aug 9, 2022 14:04
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I said come in! posted:For Logic Pro goons; what are the settings and guitar effects that you're using? I'm very new to the software, and guitar playing in general. Wanting to get a very heavy metal sound but have been unhappy with what is included with Logic Pro, and I'm wondering if I just don't understand all of the settings, and need to tweak things. I just don't know where to look or start. Logic’s built in amp sims are pretty bad, I’d recommend just jumping to a plug-in. Top of the line plugins are gonna be like Helix Native or something from NeuralDSP, but you’ll pay for it. AmpliTube or Bias FX will still be a step up but will be significantly cheaper. Also want to toss out Rhino as an option, it’s way less flexible than every other option but it sounds really good and is a great all-in-one effect, and not having a zillion amp models is actually kind of nice from an analysis paralysis perspective.
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Sep 5, 2022 02:44
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Huxley posted:I know his mom is going to come back next week and ask me to help her buy something, but drat you have REALLY slim pickins on new lefties under $800. And I know their guitar/amp budget is going to be more like $500-600. I’d advise just having him learn right-handed. If you’re just starting out, neither of your hands know what to do anyway and that way you’re not locked into lefty guitars for life. Honestly I think I might’ve had an easier time fretting with my dominant hand anyway, despite being right handed.
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Sep 13, 2022 20:13
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Don’t buy a Les Paul. Buy a single cut ESP LTD instead. Basically the same look, better prices, not locked into bad design choices forever by nostalgic boomers, better QC.
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Oct 13, 2022 14:25
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Red_Fred posted:I’ve been eyeing up an EC-1000 as some sort of future LP copy. Are they worth the premium? I assume you looked at them when you got your 256. I’ve got an EC-1000, partially because it came with Fishmans - I don’t hate ESP/EMG pickups but I don’t love em either, the SDs they put in most of the 1000 models are pretty good as I recall, but the Fishmans are fantastic. I got mine for a bit below street price from a local shop, the locking tuners are quite nice and IDK the difference in the nut between the 256 and the 1000 exactly, but I haven’t felt the need to swap mine. As another poster noted, if you’re patient you can get a used EC-1000 in great condition on Reverb for like $500ish, which is is an incredible deal. The current EC-1000s in Gold and Violet Andromeda are loving gorgeous though and they both come with Fishmans. If I didn’t already have one, that’s the one I’d buy. Arcsech fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Oct 14, 2022 |
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Oct 14, 2022 03:07
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landgrabber posted:i wish i could get off my rear end and make demos at night with D/I but having a guitar cable plugged into the interface is so cumbersome in itself in close quarters that i basically never do I bought a $40 wireless unit on Amazon that I use for this despite being probably less than 3 feet from my interface, because gently caress dealing with a cable when I barely have enough room to stand in front of my computer with a guitar in the first place, I don’t need to be tripping over a cable and pulling poo poo over. Sounds fine, especially for practice/noodling, and they’re barely more expensive than a nice cable anyway. I’ve been pretty impressed with that one, it can go much farther before dropping out than the 2.4ghz Joyo one I also have.
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Oct 16, 2022 20:45
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Yeah tonewood isn’t a thing for electric guitars really. My favorite guitar has a flame maple top though and it is loving sick. People talk like the only thing that matters about an instrument is how it sounds, but the most important thing to me is the vibes: does it make you want to play it? What do you want to play on it? The sound is part of that, but far from all of it.
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Oct 24, 2022 03:48
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Plank Walker posted:Can someone explain to me why 250k/500k/1m potentiometers sound different? Shouldn't they be the same when set to 10? Or is it basically higher resistance values are closer to a "no-load" pot and lower values let more higher frequencies bleed off? Long term I'm looking to do some tinkering on the wiring for my Jaguar, mainly switching wiring for both pickups off to both pickups in series and considering replacing the pots but I don't get the why behind the differences in output. The passive electronics in a guitar basically form a big LRC filter - inductance from the pickups, capacitance from the tone knob, and resistance from the pickups & pots. All of those values impact which frequencies are reduced by that filter, and which are boosted by the resonance of the circuit. That’s also why rolling off your volume impacts your tone - you’re changing the balance of resistance, inductance, and capacitance in the circuit. But basically it’s that higher resistances are closer to a no-load and lower values let more high frequencies bleed off, yeah.
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Oct 27, 2022 00:43
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I picked up one of these Eart Headless models, the new GW2-Pro as it looked like that model fixed the weird bridge the previous models were using. Got most of the way through the setup thinking the body shape & neck profile are really comfy, fret work is really nice, electronics aren’t bad, tuners work really well actually…. And then threads in one of the holes for the intonation set screws is stripped, so the D string will never stay intonated. It’s a machine screw, not a wood screw too, so you’d need a new base plate for the bridge to fix it, can’t even try wood filler or toothpicks or whatever. I think this one’s going back to Amazon. Except for that one issue, it’s really quite nice. Desperately needed a setup, but once the truss rod & action were set it felt pretty good. If only it would, you know, make notes in tune. I will also say the… headstock? Locking nut thing? Is a total pain in the rear end too though, there’s two screws you loosen for each string, feed the string through two hopefully-aligned holes under those screws, then tighten the screws down to lock the string in place. It seems to work well enough, but feeding the string through the holes is an exercise in frustration. I think maybe my next try will be NK guitars.
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Oct 29, 2022 15:18
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fuf posted:I'm the idiot who bought Rocksmith+ and tried to enjoy it. I failed but a side effect is that I have my guitar hooked up to my PC for the first time in ages. For point 2, give Moises a shot. You upload any audio file and it’ll break out stems and generate a metronome track, and you can vary both the playback speed (in BPM, not %) and key (separately) and mute/solo stems. It’s really nice. It is a subscription for most of the features but it’s like $40/year. Point 1, AmpliTube is on fire sale right now because they just put out their next generation software, “TONEX”, that works kinda like a software Kemper. AmpliTube isn’t the best sounding thing out there but it’s pretty good and will give you every kind of gear you could ask for. Edit: Point 3, dehumanize yourself and face to bloodshed Arcsech fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Nov 16, 2022 |
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Nov 16, 2022 18:42
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Helianthus Annuus posted:they say it's better to think of the modes in terms of the parallel major scale, but with certain notes made flat or made sharp. This way of thinking makes sense to me if you’re playing a piano, because that instrument makes a distinction between sharps and neutral notes in its interface, but it’s always been way more trouble than it’s worth to me on the guitar, where sharp positions are not easily distinguished from other notes.
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Nov 18, 2022 06:33
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I said come in! posted:I was thinking about buying the Boss Synthesizer https://www.boss.info/us/products/sy-1/ but first was wondering what you all thought? Any other alternatives that I should check out (maybe something cheaper :P), or a plug-in preferably for Logic Pro that might be similar? I don't think Boss has a VST version of this pedal. A friend got me one of these for my birthday this year and I don’t really know what to do with it, but the tracking is really impressive - way better than any of the apps I’ve tried that do similar things. Has a ton of sounds, most of which don’t sound amazing with chords but maybe I’m just not using it right.
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Nov 22, 2022 22:08
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I came out to family this past week or so (another transfemme in the thread, hi y’all) and might have indulged in a bit of retail therapy when Thomann launched their “cyber week” deals. Between the HB-35+ (335 knockoff, $185), the GuitarBass (Bass VI w/a hard tail, $185), and the $350 acoustic with a pain in the rear end model number, I figured something would be defective enough to at least hassle em for a discount or something, but drat, these things are really good. They’re all gorgeous, the acoustic and the bass have a few rough fret edges as the only flaw I can find, the 35 is the worst cosmetically with some uneven finish on the bottom, a bit of paint overspray pretty deep inside, and tooling marks on the fretboard, but the frets are very smooth. The pickups in the 35 sound great, which is nice as semi-acoustics look like a pain in the butt to work on. They’ve all got roughly correct neck relief, which is pretty impressive as they just got shipped from Germany to Colorado. They’re all even intonated pretty well. Action’s a bit on the high side all around but far from unbearable. I’m quite impressed. Bass will benefit greatly from new tuners. The ones on there now are fffffine I guess, they work, but they feel pretty low ratio and cheap.
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Nov 29, 2022 06:42
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Baron von Eevl posted:1) hell yeah sister Thanks! They all seem to use standard guitar tuners, though I guess some sets you might need to drill out the low E tuner’s string hole to get it to fit the string. Especially if you use the sets that use a real .100 bass string there instead of the .084 that the Squier and HB models ship with - haven’t decided if that’s worth it yet.
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Nov 29, 2022 14:42
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Disco Pope posted:This is my anxiety posting for sure, but I got my first fret-dress on my 21yr old MIM Strat recently and I'm worried about what happens next time - what happens next? Does the guitar just become junk? Should I just save for a new one? This guitar feels like no other and I've started treating it with kid gloves, which it's antithetical to me. There should be enough life in the frets for several more jobs, after which you can either get a refret (often more expensive but keeps the guitar as unchanged as possible) or a whole new neck - that was originally the whole point of bolt-on necks: easy replacement when the frets wear out.
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Jan 6, 2023 18:41
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TheMightyBoops posted:I was only looking at solid state stuff sorry. JC 40s are 700 and those new Fenders we were taking about are 1000 and up. I feel like JC’s have been weirdly popular lately, and the Fender Tone Master series is being positioned to fill the just-below-actual-tube-amp space in the market. Most actual solid-state amplifiers are these days. If you’re looking for inexpensive amps these days you’re gonna be looking at either modeling combo amps like the Boss Katana or Fender GTX series which are what really ate the lower end of the market, or the little heads that are basically an OD pedal with a class D power section on the back like the Orange Micro Dark or the Vox MV50 line paired with whatever cab you can get cheaply.
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Jan 7, 2023 01:54
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petit choux posted:Dear thread, Can’t tell from pictures. You’ll have to get someone who has the proper tools to take a look at it. There are some things you can look for up front - for example, if you look down the neck from the headstock and it’s warped (not bowed along the length of the neck, that’s normal, I mean like twisted side to side), the neck is hosed. Run your hands down the sides of the neck, ideally they shouldn’t catch on any of the frets, past that you need tools like a guitar straightedge with slots cut for the frets or a fret rocker to really dig in to how good it is. There’s no make printed on the headstock, which means it’s probably either a high end custom neck or a cheap poo poo (probably the latter but you never know!).
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Jan 8, 2023 21:35
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BonHair posted:If I want a Fender, what brand should I actually get? Like, if I want a Gibson, I'm getting an ESP/LTD because they're essentially superior copies. But if I want a quality classic strat, where do I go? I think the common answer is going to be G&L, though I’ve never played any myself. Also founded by Leo Fender, makes good quality stuff at better prices than the big name brand.
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Jan 8, 2023 21:48
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I have 3 Harley Benton instruments, one of their 335 clones (the plus model with the coil split), a Bass VI, and a nice acoustic. They’re all great for the price I paid, but the acoustic, which I think is normally about $400 so a similar price bracket, and it is really nice. It’s pretty much cosmetically perfect, intonation set just right, sounds great, plays pretty well as far as I can tell (still getting used the higher action and larger string gauge, which makes it a bit hard to be certain). The 335 clone (a bit under $200) & the Bass VI (a bit under $300) are pretty good although they have a bunch of cosmetic flaws like tooling marks on the fretboard, finish overspray, etc but nothing that’s even immediately noticeable. The only functional flaw is the bass’s open G string rattles a bit. I think it might need a new nut, but even with a new nut it’ll still come out a couple hundred bucks cheaper than the equivalent Squier model.
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Feb 7, 2023 22:57
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TheMightyBoops posted:I know that there’s probably a bunch of good HBs in the wild but the amount of “This Harly Benton Sucked me Off” YouTube videos the algorithm serves up have made me so wary. They've had a couple pretty big misses in the youtube reviews recently; in particular KDH got a stinker that Thomann said was normal and Spectre Sound Studios basically discovered that for their low-end ($100-200) guitars with black hardware, they used non-conductive black paint on all the hardware, meaning nothing is grounded properly so it buzzes like all gently caress unless you scrape away a bunch of paint. AFAIK they're still selling them like that. They're still really, really good for the price though.
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Feb 16, 2023 00:57
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Southern Cassowary posted:I had a brief flirtation with the idea of getting a Harley Benton LP Junior and doing some upgrades on it and the last page of the thread has me off of it completely. Especially if you’re planning on upgrading it anyway, I’d really urge you to reconsider - just understand that a $125 guitar is probably going to be pretty poo poo even if it’s “really good for the price”, the most important parts - the neck and frets - tend to be in good shape even if there are problems with the hardware, and the upper end of the line, above like $300 or so, seems to have way fewer QC issues than the real low end models.
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Feb 16, 2023 02:35
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Good Soldier Svejk posted:I've done it twice on my own and $40 seems downright reasonable compared to how long it took me filing and checking and filing and oops too much fill that back in Graphtech sells pre-slotted nuts for like $15. I put one in an old Ibanez and it worked flawlessly, no complaints, just had to sand down the bottom a bit to get the action right. Otherwise just dropped right in.
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Mar 10, 2023 03:36
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Helianthus Annuus posted:i blew thru my guitar budget already, so i wonder if someone would volunteer to check out one of these 300 dollar strandberg clones from a maker called "Latitude" https://latitudeguitar.com/ I went on the same journey a while back, this one looks like it uses the same bridge as the Eart GW2, and that bridge is hot garbage. Like, it works, but it’s incredibly inconvenient and relies on a little pop-out tool you’re guaranteed to lose immediately. I ended up buying the Eart GW2-Pro, which has a much better bridge, but I still ended up having to exchange one because the bridge was defective - the intonation set screws came stripped. The frets do appear to be stainless steel with ball ends, and the neck on mine is quite good appears to be the same on all the Eart headless models. It came completely unshielded as well, though with a grounded screw set in the cavity to ground the non-existent shielding, so at least there’s no soldering required to shield it. Edit: also, most of these strandberg knockoffs are actually using slight variations of the body shape. Be aware of this before you buy a stand designed for strandbergs, because it probably won’t work like you’re expecting. I learned that one the hard way. Arcsech fucked around with this message at 02:29 on Mar 16, 2023 |
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Mar 16, 2023 02:21
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Dang It Bhabhi! posted:unless the coils are wildly mismatched in those humbuckers, they shouldn't require much in the way of shielding? I mean the control cavity wasn’t shielded, and it did have some noise until I did that.
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Mar 16, 2023 03:30
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If anyone’s in the market for a new amp + cab, Monoprice has a 30W all-tube amp with a Celestion V30-loaded cab for $300 with code MARCH15. I’ve been tempted by the cab recently and this was too good to pass up; the cab itself is roughly $200, I’m sure even if I hate the amp head I can resell it for at least $100 and make it a wash. The cab is plywood and in at least one review the head came with JJ power tubes, even.
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Mar 18, 2023 02:41
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Dang It Bhabhi! posted:And just like that it's out of stock until June. Any idea what circuit is inside? Welp. No idea if it’s a clone of something or what. There’s not too much discussion of it online that I can find, and only two YouTube reviews. I don’t know amps well enough to identify it for sure. I kinda think it might be a mashup of a Fendery clean channel with a Marshall JCM 800-alike in the OD channel, but that’s completely pulled out of my rear end; I’m not an expert on amp models. I would like to do a tear down on it and see if I can figure it out though, I’ve got a background in electronics so if the circuit’s reasonably simple I might be able to trace the thing.
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Mar 18, 2023 03:39
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Good Soldier Svejk posted:there standards for "b-stock" seem to be absurdly high, too I always buy b-stock or refurbished if it’s available for anything that’s not critical to safety or my employment. I’ve never once gotten anything where I could identify why it was b-stock and found a lower rate of functional defects than buying new.
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Mar 19, 2023 17:02
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Follow up on the monoprice 30 W tube head - I am like 90% sure it’s a clone of the Laney VC 15 with a couple extra power tubes stapled on. Another monoprice amp is known to be a clone of the Laney Cub 12R so we know monoprice likes the brand, and the controls/inputs are an exact match between them. The Monoprice’s manual even copied the description of the tone control word for word from the Laney’s manual. Edit: oh, the VC30 also exists and is an even more exact match, down to the pad on the fx loop. Arcsech fucked around with this message at 19:42 on Mar 19, 2023 |
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Mar 19, 2023 19:28
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Gramps posted:That lil Latitude is from the Eart factory so this makes sense. If you dig around on their website enough you can figure out it’s for like Electric Art or something, it’s “e-art”, which is coincidentally the stupidest sounding pronunciation for that I could think of. Eeee-yart!!
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Mar 25, 2023 13:17
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landgrabber posted:i was looking into loopers recently but was wishing there was one where i could adjust the beginning and end of the loop after the fact so i could get everything more in rhythm. not sure that exists, or if it does it's just ableton... Have you considered replacing the speaker in your current cab? That's responsible for a substantial portion of your sound, pretty simple, and considerably cheaper than replacing the whole cab. Honestly fretwork is probably the best investment, despite being the least exciting, as is typical.
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Mar 25, 2023 15:51
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landgrabber posted:just to respond to this: Oh yeah, new speaker ain’t gonna make your amp any lighter. Not meaningfully, anyway. Probably not gonna help the gain channel much either. With you on the Marshalls, I like the sound, love the aesthetic, would have a real hard time justifying one. I mostly play at home, where I have a newish baby, and the only places I’m likely to play in public are the type that want your stage volume as close to zero as possible, so modelers are my friend and I think in order to justify a “real” tube amp (more than the Monoprice one I got for effectively $100, lol) I’d have to get one of the ones with a built-in load (or get a load box separately, I guess) which adds even more to the cost.
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Mar 27, 2023 23:25
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Early thoughts on the Monoprice 30w: So far sounds great. At lower volumes (under about 2) the volume knobs are so sensitive you can almost get a noticeable difference from breathing on them, haven’t had a chance to crank it much higher than that yet. Cleans are a bit hard to get a read on? It’s a nice sound, anyway. Haven’t gotten it cranked enough to get it to distort much on the clean channel. Gain channel kinda does the Marshall thing, at least when you punch it in the inputs with Fishmans. Switches are good and clunky, knobs are smooth and nicely damped. The set didn’t come with a speaker cable, which is mildly annoying. Definitely gonna scratch my “tubes” itch for a while. Still want to open it up and see how much of a Laney clone it really is; if they went whole hog it might have a real spring reverb tank in it.
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Mar 28, 2023 18:35
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Well, I'm either about to find out how good Sweetwater's used gear site's buyer protection is or just scored a like-new Helix Floor for $600. Guess we'll find out!
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Mar 30, 2023 21:14
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Arcsech posted:Well, I'm either about to find out how good Sweetwater's used gear site's buyer protection is or just scored a like-new Helix Floor for $600. Guess we'll find out! Just got an email from Sweetwater that the seller has been banned for fraud and the order refunded. Not terribly surprising... But it does leave me wondering what the tracking number I already got, which is headed for my city and is about the right weight, is. Well, actually, that tracking number is listed by UPS as one part of a 3 part shipment, all of which are going to my city. So I'm really curious what's going to show up, if anything, tomorrow.
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Apr 3, 2023 18:20
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widefault posted:Firefly FFST, ash body with roasted maple neck, HSS(No coil tap for the bridge, though), stainless frets, wheel truss rod adjustment at the heel, locking tuners, 2-point bridge. Scoop on the rear lower horn, and an angled heel to help. Stainless steel frets, locking tuners, and a roasted maple neck? Try $1k+ from LTD, more than that from Fender. $200 for that is bonkers assuming it doesn’t have any fundamental flaws. Even more if it doesn’t need fret work, and it looks like they’re using those ball end frets that tend to be quite good, is that right? Even Harley Benton charges like $400 for those specs.
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Apr 7, 2023 18:42
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luchadornado posted:Any trip reports here with the Vox MV50? For a guy that doesn't like lifting heavy poo poo, it seems like it ticks a lot of boxes for me, especially the "Clean". Anything in particular you’re interested in? I’ve got the AC and Clean units, they’re pretty good for little 3-knob units. They get loud as gently caress, I don’t play with a band but I’d be shocked if you had much trouble keeping up with a drummer as long as you’re running through a decent cab. Cab sim on the line out blows pretty hard but you can apparently get a non-cab-sim signal from it by half inserting the jack. Dunno how much it really impacts the sound but the little VFD “nutube“ is pretty neat to look at, there’s a little window so you can see it flicker with your input signal. Clean works great as a pedal platform, honestly most of the time I’m running a modeler through it using an amp sim like a dirt pedal.
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Apr 11, 2023 05:50
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luchadornado posted:I love pedals and am not really a fan of my modeling amp. Rare jam sessions with 1-2 people and one day I'd love to play a bar show just to say I did it. The idea of plugging a 1lb MV50 into a 4" speaker or something for practice and then a 12" when I want to rock is appealing. Yeah if what you want is a simple pedal platform that goes easily from quiet to loud, they’re great. It uses a class D power amp so you can pretty much plug it into whatever but you want - but you need a 4 ohm load if you want all 50 watts, an 8 ohm load halves the power output and a 16 ohm load will quarter it. That’s on top of the Clean’s “attenuator” switch, so when I run it into my 8 ohm cab in “12.5 watt” mode it’s really about 6.25w, which puts it in a nice range to be nice for practice volume through most of the volume knob. I’ve got a 4 ohm 4x10 bass cab I run it through sometimes and I haven’t actually cranked it all the way because it’s too goddamn loud.
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Apr 11, 2023 15:49
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TEMPLE GRANDIN OS posted:I have the little bro to this amp the 5W it's great I have the big bro to this amp, the 30w head & cab, and it’s great. Too loving loud though and no attenuator, get the 15w with the 1w switch if you’re jonesing for toobz but don’t want to get the cops called on you. Do wait for a sale though, they go on sale all the time.
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Apr 21, 2023 17:37
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