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ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Moving this over from the general fix-it thread.

ryanrs posted:

Lock Chat



I want to modify a Weslock Colonial 1400 entry handleset to use a high-security cylinder like a bilock, abloy protec, or even an older medeco or assa cylinder.

I do not actually need very high security, though it would be nice to have something bump-proof. Mostly I just want an upgrade from whatever garbage lock is probably in there right now (though if weslock is actually awesome, please tell me). And approximately 50% of my motivation is to have a weird and unusual key, so please take that into consideration. I want a big, meaty key, but no electronics, magnets, or dimples, please.

The detail that makes it fun: the condo association mandates this specific weslock handleset (it's a big condo complex, not a house). So I can't just upgrade it to something modern and good. Lots of people have installed separate deadbolts, which I guess I could do. Kinda don't want to, though. I would prefer to modify the Weslock Colonial 1400 to accept a different cylinder. There's a lot of room inside the handleset, and I think the weslock cylinder is larger than most. I am willing to design and fabricate custom metal parts, including machining the weslock handleset itself.

This project is still in the research/evaluation phase. If there is a simple/normal way to put a different brand cylinder into this handleset, that would be best. I don't want to make custom parts unless I need to.

ryanrs posted:

The Weslock cylinders are available in Kwikset and Schlage keyways. If I want to stick with Weslock cylinders, I would probably buy a new one with a Schlage keyway (SC1). The existing Weslock cylinder is a totally beat to poo poo KW1 that is decades old.

ryanrs posted:

Yeah! Abloy Protec2 KIK w/ 6 keys for $180. See, that's the kind of price point that makes this project feasible. With a brand new handleset and a small custom part, it might hit $500 total.

I'm going to take the Weslock mechanism apart tomorrow to get some pics. But I think it's just a KIK cylinder with long tailpiece, held in place with a screw. It feels like cross-manufacturer cylinder compatibility is just a matter of machining or 3D printing a spacer or something.

I'll also take it to a local locksmith to talk lock options. Hopefully they'll be amused by the idea.


Maybe lockpickers will see the appeal of shoehorning a fancy cylinder into this HOA-mandated clockwork turd?

What issues do I need to keep in mind to make this work? Are all KIK cylinders basically the same? I wish I had a table of cylinder dimensions for the different brands.

(apologies if this is too much locksmithing in the locksport thread)

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ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Upon further investigation/demolition, I've decided the door is properly hosed, and I'm going to rip out the entire door + jamb and replace everything. 50/50 chance I am just digging myself deeper.

But I did find a really nice lock on ebay! Medeco High Security Cylinder w/ 5 keys for $55. It's a Medeco 51S Biaxial w/ 6 pins. One of the finest commercial locks of the time (1985 - 2005).

The lock and keys are new old stock, with zero scratches or wear. They must have been sitting on some shelf for 20-30 years. The finish is perfect and the clicky mechanical action is as sharp as when it left the factory. You can feel the precision tolerances of the mechanism as you insert and turn the key.

No security card, so these 5 keys are all you will ever get. But if you can live with that restriction, I think it's a great deal. The ebay seller would probably sell more of them if they put the word 'biaxial' in the title or description. :ssh:

This Medeco cylinder fits just about perfectly in a Schlage commercial deadbolt. It will probably fit any Schlage hardware that accepts a Schlage SC4 6-pin KIK cylinder.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RLw4uHkrxjQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eqPb-_r45jU

ryanrs fucked around with this message at 05:08 on Dec 22, 2023

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

The bore holes in the door aren't in quite the right place for the existing hardware, and are very wrong for modern hardware.

For example, the door knob backset is a little over 2-1/2 in, not 2-3/8 or 2-3/4. And the 1" hole in the door edge for the deadbolt is not vertically aligned with the 2-1/8 through-hole, so the deadbolt was installed upside-down in order to fit. That's why our deadbolt has to be turned the 'wrong way' to engage/disengage.

It really looks like some incompetent handyman did a lot of very sloppy drilling, then hammered the lock parts in backwards to fit. It's amazing it has kinda-worked for so long. Also amazing is the fact that every door in this 100 unit complex is messed up the same way.

TBH I'm suspicious that I'm maybe missing some basic understanding here. But also I'm $300 into this 'repair' and poo poo has just been getting worse. The existing hardware has been discontinued, parts are hard to find, and it was all Weslock garbage in the first place.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

No, gently caress this upside-down/backwards poo poo. I am going to un-grover my front door even if it means sawzalling it out of the wall.

I just got home with a new factory-milled pre-hung door. Everything is going to be installed to spec, with precision, using quality hardware from Schlage and Medeco. All fitting and bodging and mangling will be located between the studs and the door jamb and hidden with moulding, like it's supposed to be.

Half-assed repairs have kept this thing going for years, but it has always sucked.

e: Now I have a sawzall. Ho-ho-ho.

ryanrs fucked around with this message at 04:12 on Dec 23, 2023

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