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Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
Speaking of hand planes, I impulse bought some old hand planes from a local auction without really checking to see if they were any good. Here's what I ended up with, I suspect at least one (if not all) are probably not worth messing with:

1st plane:



2nd plane:


3rd plane (this one looks the least bad but I'm actually most suspicious of it):



...this is the blade:



The handle is sort of faux-wood plastic.

Thoughts? I didn't spend a ton of money on these so it's nbd if they're not worth messing with.

p.s. please excuse the insane wood floors, this is a 1930s house where the owner (landlord) put some sort of awful varnish on it 10-15 years ago and it's peeling up something fierce

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Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Cannon_Fodder posted:

This is exactly the project I'm in the middle of doing. I turned the walnut knob last week as practice, as I'm not the most experienced turner.


Is that a little Miller Falls (no16 or something similar)?
I have one of those and loving love it.

To tell if a block plane is any good (compare plane #1 to plane #2 in your list) is if it has the following:

Depth adjustment
throat adjustment
lateral adjustment

without those, I wouldn't bother. Tuning #2 might be a loving pain and fiddly to set.
I can't even comment on #3.

Thanks. Under the blade and adjustment thing (frog?) it's got a 306-16, googling looks like it's a Miller Falls from the 1938-1971 run, probably an older model because it doesn't have the branding.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
Also super helpful.

I got the whole lot for ~$24 so I don't feel too bad, although it looks like I still may have overspent a little. Also does not help that I could have just not bought the craftsman and then I would've spent ~$12 on the other two. Oh well!

The Stanley 102 does not have an iron, it came as is. I feel a little silly but I knew I didn't know what I was doing and it felt low-risk. Is there a low cost option for replacing the iron, or should I just give it up for lost? I'm not feeling super attached to it.

The other block plane seems like it might be ok? I'll take it apart later and get some better pictures of the rest of it. The only real concern is that the little mouth adjuster under the finger rest is completely stuck. The edge of the blade feels sharp and looks kind of shiny, so it might have been in use not that long ago.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
Y'all are making me really glad I went for PPE right away, I've been using dust masks since my second project and I got a Rockler dust cyclone a few weeks ago when they were on sale, and I've only been casually woodworking since September.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
Speaking of biscuit jointers I picked up an old and extremely hosed up looking Craftsman biscuit joiner that a friend who likes to mess with power tools is slowly trying to rehab for me. I'll report back if it works out.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Mr. Mambold posted:

It is workable if you have a true 90 cut from your tablesaw. That's the crucial part. The optimal way I found with my planer was to bunch up several rips of the same width and run them through en masse.

The true 90 is the motherfucker. Any time I move my table saw from 90 degrees I have to pop out my magnetic level again because chances are the positive stop at 90 has wiggled loose and won't be quite right.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Obsoletely Fabulous posted:

I’ve started considering wearing mine out in public but the thing that stopped me was the vent. I’m thinking about a few layers of cloth hot glued over it for the time but for now I’ve got a half dozen kn95s left. I am out among people maybe once a month so the 10 pack I bought has lasted quite a while.

You could probably attach any sort of regular mask over the vent, with the ear pieces hooked around the filters

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

JEEVES420 posted:

Two is one, one is none

Yeah, I mean, if you're in a situation where you're exposed enough that you really want to wear the respirator you should probably just re-think your priorities in terms of being out and about in the world.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
There's a local guy selling a Porter Cable PC305TP Planer on Facebook, it looks like nobody has been biting so the price has been dropping. It's listed at $100, and says it needs new blades. He says it's about 6-7 years old and that he hardly used it although I'm a little skeptical. When I asked how old it was he volunteered that he had put some heart of pine through it, which is what chewed up the blades. He responded to me in complete sentences, and wasn't particularly pushy about making the sale so it doesn't look like he's in a super big hurry to unload it. Any thoughts about how reasonable that is, if I'm willing to take some risk?

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
Yeah, it's a little over $300 new, replacement blades are $20-30, it's a dual-blade rather than triple-blade planer. It's apparently a rebadge of the old Delta TP305, a lot of the parts are interchangeable I guess.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Hypnolobster posted:

Dull and/or lovely drill bits. Also, in general you'll get blowout on the other side unless the piece is on something sacrificial to support the wood fiber on the far side of the hole. Ideally clamped down.


e: or the drill is in reverse :v:

I'm betting on the drill being in reverse.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

NomNomNom posted:



It's pretty great, excellent quick finish for things that will get handled a lot. I use it on my cutting boards, spoons, and as a shop finish. Love not minding if it gets on my hands.

My only caution would be watch if it gets on your workbench or other finishing table, it can transfer to other work pieces and mess with their finish.

Does yours look like a jar of jizz when cooled? That's what mine looks like

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Obsoletely Fabulous posted:

Due to renaissance fairs being an extremely popular family activity I've been experimenting with making wooden cups in anticipation of being able to go again this year. These were my 3 prototypes. Made out of some scrap pine/maple.


To finish them I've been using mineral oil + beeswax. I filled one of the pine ones up a while ago with water and let it sit for 6 hours and not a drop came out.


I finally made a "real" one out of zebrawood with a maple handle because I didn't have enough zebrawood to make the handle. Routing the handle burnt the poo poo out of the maple. I spent ~2 hours hand sanding all those tiny little crevices trying to clean it up the best I could. I finally called it good enough and applied the finish. Due to some math errors and not properly calculating the new circumference/diameter when I decided to cut the staves at 1 1/2" instead of 1" this thing could probably hold a 40 without spilling a drop.


That's cool! How do you clamp for the glue-up?

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
I'm building some new MDF cabinet fronts to replace some hosed up disasters in the new-to-us house we just bought and I did some test cuts and chamfers and I'm like really understanding why router tables exist right now after chamfering both sides of four pieces of MDF that are frankly not that large with my ryobi trim router and some clamps

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Thumposaurus posted:

For all your wood finding needs use https://www.woodfinder.com

That sounds like a lovely ad but it lets you search by your zip code to find places nearby that you never knew existed.

I found a couple of places near me before I moved to buy wood at for reasonable prices.
I haven't used it lately since I haven't been doing much with stuff I haven't found laying around but I checked it out again before posting the link and it still works as intended.

Also the local to me architectural recycling store has a guy who does urban logging that sells live edge slabs for a pretty reasonable prices. It's worth looking into if you have something similar nearby you if your looking for something like that as well.

This seems like it's going to depend on how online your local area is, because I put in my zip code and it failed to list the two closest places I know of that are each about 30 miles from me and went to places that are 80 miles.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
Any idea what model Dewalt planer this is? I have second dibs on it tomorrow for $150 and I just want to make sure it's not a lemon, since it'd be an hour drive:



It sounds like it was this woman's late husband's.

edit: Hmm, maybe it's just a 734 with some other random piece of equipment on top of it. That might explain why I can't figure it out.

Danhenge fucked around with this message at 03:40 on May 16, 2021

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Rutibex posted:

I don't think you have to worry, whoever has first dibs is definitely going to take that for $150

I mean, yes, unless they don't show up!! People are notoriously flaky near where I live. I can hope

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
As predicted it sold this morning!

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

I just tried to order some Baltic birch and they said don’t expect to see any until January, lol.

I've got three pieces of 3/4" 24"x30" baltic birch that I ordered from Rockler back in December that I was going to use to re-do my workbench surface but now it feels too valuable to use for that purpose.

Edit: Speaking of, it looks like Rockler has baltic birch in stock. It's expensive but might be good enough for your purposes.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
Today I realized that my riving knife is either not quite centered (off my like 3mm or something) or else is actually straight up bent and has been since I got the saw ~9 months ago. When I've got thicker blades on it just causes some occasional deflection issues that I have attributed to the fence all this time. When I use my thin kerf rip blade for non-through cuts it is a complete nightmare. Gotta adjust it and hope it's just a centering issue rather than having to mail off my riving knife for a replacement

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Obsoletely Fabulous posted:

Mine is the the same way except cuts on full kerf blades catch. My issue is a tiny bend though and it is near the top, maybe 1/2” from the top, so it is really only an issue on very thick boards or when resawing. Otherwise I can just raise the blade enough to get past it.

It didn’t come like that though and I honestly don’t know how I bent it. Just one day went to make a cut and my board just stopped moving. I was able to hold it in place and shut the saw down though and figure out what the hell happened.

If I want to cut a groove without taking my riving knife off (non-through cut) then I'm out of options. Not sure what to do about it exactly. Other than buy something nicer than a ridgid jobsite saw

Edit: I guess if I'm cutting a groove I don't technically need my riving knife but I'd prefer to leave it on.

Edit2: I futzed with the adjustment screws and I think it's better-aligned now, but I have to go get some new poplar to figure it out for sure.

Danhenge fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Jun 27, 2021

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

melon cat posted:

Same with my Kobalt table saw. I dislike it so damned much but also don't use a table saw often enough to rationalize spending the additional money.

Have you and/or common shore ever replaced the blades? The cheap default blades in those budget saws are probably never going to give a nice cut.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

NomNomNom posted:

That's an absurd deal, in my market you'd have to race get that.

There's been a used 735 in my area on Facebook for about $430 for weeks. It went up like two days after I bought one new on sale.

Edit: down to $400 now

Danhenge fucked around with this message at 05:14 on Jul 16, 2021

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
The base powermatic 60 is ~2.2k new, so a conservative 1.4k new, 800 used seems like a good deal to me.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Stultus Maximus posted:

Speaking of screws, does anyone know where to get good vintage style slotted screws? Restoring a 100+ year old house looks like poo poo if you use anything modern.

Killian Hardware carries some vintage-y screws.

Edit: Specifically, I've seen them in the stop bead adjuster section, dunno where else they are on the weird website: https://kilianhardware.com/stopbeadad.html

You can also call them and they might have additional options of other sizes.

Danhenge fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Aug 14, 2021

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
Yeah, dialing it in is cool but I'm wondering what kind of project you're doing that requires that degree of precision.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
Some cabinet maker about 30 minutes away is trying unload his stash of lumber. He described it as:

Lots of poplar, some clear pine, some red oak, a few pieces of ash, some cypress scraps, which he's selling for $4 a board foot. Is that in the general area of a good deal? I'm going to be making some poplar cabinet doors in the future, so it's probably reasonably useful for me anyway.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
I live on the Delmarva Peninsula, the closest lumber yard is ~45 minutes. Poplar at lowes/HD sells at about the equivalent of $8/bf. I guess I don't know what the price of poplar at the local lumber yards is.

Edit: This is the price list of my local lumber yard in 2009. I haven't been at this long enough to judge how things would have changed in the interim

http://www.cheswoodsales.com/images/SELL.PDF

Danhenge fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Aug 25, 2021

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Kalman posted:

A lot cheaper. The DelMarVa yard I get emails from (Maryland Select Hardwoods) has narrow poplar at $1/bf and wider poplar at 2.50/bf, sometimes surfaced at that price. (He’ll also throw in 10 bf of narrow poplar free if you buy 100 bucks of other wood.)

That's on the other side of the Chesapeake from me, I'm talking about across the bay bridge.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Kalman posted:

Yeah, just realized that and edited to reflect, but I’d still expect poplar to be much cheaper at actual Delmarva yards.

Alright, much appreciated!

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
I've been trying to track down local saw mills, but it seems like they all just do wholesale SYP or they aren't on the internet.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

A Wizard of Goatse posted:

Lumber yard or sawmill? there's no way there's not a yard somewhere on the outskirts of the nearest big town. As an individual hobbyist looking for a mill to process the tree you cut down yeah you're gonna be stuck dealing with 60-year-old farmers who were clearing a field a decade ago and found themselves with a sawmizer's worth of cash burning a hole in their pocket, and have all the business hustle and tech savvy that implies. Try putting some messages out on whatever local Facebook group old rednecks use to swap pictures of Larry the Cable Guy

I was responding to Kaiser Schnitzel's note about sawmills. I know of a couple lumber yards, they're just 45 minutes at the nearest

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

calandryll posted:

Where in Delmarva are you? There are a few Amish sawmills outside of Dover that I've been meaning to reach out to about wood. If you don't mind a drive up to Philly there is a really good spot for wood called Delaware County Supply Company. It's a huge place with a really good selection.

Salisbury, so not quite a casual drive to any of those places. I'd drive if there's a really good deal tho

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

calandryll posted:

I'll have to ask my boss where he gets his wood, he lives in the Lewes area. I think he's mentioned the Millsboro store a few times.

The millsboro store is nice, just takes a big we out of my day, and i can usually only get there on a Saturday before it closes.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

SimonSays posted:

Sounds like you should buy that expensive wood off that cabinetmaker then, if there isn't a lumberyard you can get to.

Or just stop complaining and suck it up now and then!

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
Anybody know what this tool kit is?

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

signalnoise posted:

That is the X-ACTO XT5086 Standard Hobby Tool Set

Thanks! I just though to reverse image search and was coming to edit my post. :P

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

I'm jealous.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
The radial arm saw was the official saw of the eastern shore or something, there's like a million of them for sale constantly.

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Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
Today I learned a lesson about the fragility of brass screws, the importance of sizing your pilot hole for brass screws correctly, and that lubricating screw threads was a thing.

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