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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

This is a very good thread that I will be watching.

I'm both confused and intrigued by the system that is being used for this foundation. And offended on behalf of OP based on what looks like the complete and total waste of money it was.

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

meatpimp posted:

That's what I was thinking. Wholly overkill for the size of the structure, even if the land is sandlike. (yes, a bit of an overstatement, but not much!)

It's not just that, it's also that they brought in an oversized and basically incorrect machine that required special soil prep so it wouldn't fall over. Surely pile driving machines with outriggers like we have in the US exist in the UK as well. That's what gets used on sites like that. Thing that need surface prep are used on sites where this prep work is no big deal because the building/warehouse is an acre or so big already so who cares if you need to throw down a few meter wide bed of material around the perimeter.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009


I again have to say this is such insane overkill for a single story house foundation. Or any house foundation, but drat if you're not doing it well.

Also, I absolutely hate backhoes/your style digger. Capable of multiple things, good at none of them. And I get it, not judging. I have a tractor to do the tractor parts and a mini excavator to to the min excavator parts now and everything is so much better. If I could add a skid steer to the mix it would be even better, but you've got a house to build not a heavy equipment museum.

E: that 027 Kubota you rented is a really nice machine for that job if not just a touch small/limited reach.

Motronic fucked around with this message at 23:52 on Jun 11, 2022

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

NotJustANumber99 posted:

Also should have got a JCB. The spare part I need for it is currently doing laps round Illinois, hopefully to be put on a plane soon. Machine was made in France, but everything has to come from the US. I will probably get charged extra import tax when it arrives.

This is hilarious to me in particular because my miniex is a Yanmar and nearly every time I'm trying to get parts for it I end up buying them from the UK because none of our Yanmar dealers in the states are worth a poo poo for digging equipment (seems they all sell/stock/service the Yanmar road paving stuff).

Maybe we need to fence parts for each other.

Edit again: Oh wait....that thing says Ford on it. I bet that's actually a New Holland. Which is headquartered less than 2 hours from where I live.

Motronic fucked around with this message at 00:03 on Jun 12, 2022

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

I noticed you had rebar ties on site. Those hold up outer tie rod ends pretty good too for even longer than zip ties.

(Do I need to find some outer tire rod ends for you?)

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

NotJustANumber99 posted:

The left and right end are threaded the opposite way to each other where they screw into the ends of the track rod. And at some point someone has evidently swapped it round. So my right hand side party actually needs to be a left.

They must have done that to make it right hand drive :dadjoke:

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

NotJustANumber99 posted:

Get 20 tonnes of shingle delivered for filling around all the underground pipes.

So is shingle a regular quarry item around you/in the UK in general and what is it? Around here we'd use "#2 stone" for that, also known as "3/4 clean" which is just washed 3/4" crushed stone which very locally is a crushed blue sandstone but I suppose it's other types of stone in other places.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

NotJustANumber99 posted:

It's 4/10 graded gravel. So some one has measured all the pebbles and they're between 4 and 10mm.

Yeah, that sounds like a pretty workable standard stone (like our #2) that you can use for most of everything from under concrete to trench leveling, around pipes, etc.

We have a "modified" which is basically 3/4" "crusher run" (so everything 3/4" and smaller) with extra fines added to it that gets used for gravel driveway/path bases because you can roll it out and it locks together. Then you put the nicer looking stuff on top and it doesn't sink into the mud as fast.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

El Mero Mero posted:

Are you married? Everything I know from grand designs is that you may soon will not be.

Congrats on the foundations though!

This is so much better than trying to turn the town water plant into a residence.

(wow it's been a long time since I watched those)

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

NotJustANumber99 posted:

its a quick and easy house build.

I really, really love this thread.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

NotJustANumber99 posted:

I'll probably just post loads of pictures and swear words again from now on.

:justpost:

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

NotJustANumber99 posted:

but it's surprising how few bags of cement you can put in a trailer before your car's rear suspension starts to plead mercy



Merely a tongue weight problem. You need to stack more of the bags behind the trailer axle. Then it's 100% safe.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

IOwnCalculus posted:

I don't disagree but looking at that trailer tire it's pretty close to maxed out too.

I said it's 100% safe.

Don't ruin my thread content IOC.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

VelociBacon posted:

Ask him for his merc level job not his van level job.

lol.

Also, what are those two pieces of rebar sticking out of the ground? What are they attached to and what are they getting tied into? I thought all of the rebar was tied from the pilings into your blast proof foundation already.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

NotJustANumber99 posted:

theyre just string line thingys I stuck my yellow hats on because I am a dedicated safety officer

You're doing a very good job.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

NotJustANumber99 posted:

i thought your speed limit was 55?

Nope. It's upwards of 70 in some places.

Also, you'll want to be doing at least 65 or 70 on a lot of 55 MPH highways or you'll get run down by traffic.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Looks like it was falling down 100+ year ago in the picture.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

What that old trope.....Britain thinks 100 miles is a long way and America things 100 years is a long time....

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

I bet that made a noise.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

WhatEvil posted:

my advice for any other self-build would be to use a professional project manager. Apparently it can cost ~5% of your total build cost but I'd bet you they'd save you at least that much in terms of avoiding cost overruns etc.

This isn't just a UK thing. In the US an experienced GC should be creating this value - and part of it includes knowing which subs to bring in because they know the LOCAL labor.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Jaded Burnout posted:

I agree 100% that a good project manager would be a godsend for a first-timer, but how do you, the naive consumer, choose a good one?

First homeless guy on a bike that talks to you:

quote:

That’s when a man pulled up on his 10-speed bicycle and started chatting with Julian. His name was Robert. He was in his 50s, wore a short-sleeved plaid shirt, jean cut-offs, a rumpled hat and white running shoes. He was missing a few key teeth and didn’t like wearing socks or, as he later informed us, underwear. Robert didn’t own a car and spent his time collecting stray pieces of metal, wood and other junk he’d find on the street. Yet, despite his alarming appearance, he was charming and knowledgeable.

https://torontolife.com/real-estate/parkdale-reno-hell/

What could possibly go wrong?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

NotJustANumber99 posted:

to be fair they put that fence in after I designed it all

I'm surprised they're allowed to put a spite fence right on the property line, especially considering how close your permitted already-established footprint building is to those lines.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

NotJustANumber99 posted:

Are there rules where you are about that?

It's definitely by municipality/jurisdiction but there are almost always some manner of rules around any permanent structures on or near property lines.

In general there's no way you'd be allowed to build hour house that close without some special arrangement (like what you have) and it's unlikely that a fence could be put within a meter or so of the property line without agreement from owners on both sides of the line.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

NotJustANumber99 posted:

This would bankrupt the uk fence market. No homeowners would ever agree with each other.

Or double it, with everyone having their own fences with a couple yards of scrub brush between them that nobody wants to mow.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Jaded Burnout posted:

To be fair, most construction timber is never intended to be seen and only has to be good enough that the surface layers can take up the difference.

That works until it doesn't. I have a big pickle fork looking tweaker bar that I use for studs when I can't get good ones. You whack them into the sole plate straight then bend the whip out of them so they are straight on the sill plate and whack them in. I figure maybe they'll dry out and actually stay that way. But if not, whatever - atleast the sheetrock goes on easier and flatter.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

That looks like the most complicated way to get that done.

In the US this would most commonly be done with a palm nailer (air driven) and tico nails. I don't know what those things would be called in the commonwealth or if they exist.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Tomarse posted:

I'm with you on screws being much nicer than nails

Screws are not the same strength in shear as nails. They have their places and it's not always about about convenience or preference. In the US we do have rated structural screws available (simpson strong tie/simpson ledger lock are what I've used) but they are definitely their own thing/larger diameter/etc. They are also a lot more expensive.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

NotJustANumber99 posted:

americans are so much better at everything

Let's not get out of control and say thing we're really gonna want to take back here.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Party Boat posted:

My instinct here is to laugh in appreciation of how on brand this is but I'm genuinely envious and wish I'd thought to look for something like this before attempting the billion bodge jobs that are holding my house together

If you've got even one job that requires drilling like that you might want to consider being a little bit nicer to yourself and.....

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

NotJustANumber99 posted:

Lol I haven't really bought that. Well... I haven't actually opened it yet. That is not how I am expecting it to open.

It would go perfectly with your windows, but it's going to need a door frame that gets installed into a couple of 100 meter bore holes on either side of it with a 40 footer in the middle for the hinge.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

NotJustANumber99 posted:

Also very unsure about the valley, in the centre of the L where the two roof elements meet. Don't really like this but apparently this is how to do it, infill bits of board. yuck



I mean, I'm not able to comment on this particular construction method but the "yuck" is not coming from that, it's from this being very unworkmanlike. If this is how it should be done the boards shod be well fit and well trimmed.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

NotJustANumber99 posted:

It is shameful. I should have not posted it or pretended some other shoddy person did it. Its not really structural, just there as a backboard to nail to for the valley drain that goes above.

I mean, if those are just nailers whatever. Like I said, I don't know this construction method.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

So good enough is good enough.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

The drone shots really show just how much your neighbors hosed you for no good reason.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Wait what? You're saying the pin fell out of the FEL of the digger there? It didn't break?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

That's not very typical. I'd like to make that point.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

At this point have you considered abandoning all of this and just sprucing up and living in the break room the drillers made you provide?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

NotJustANumber99 posted:

I'm roughly at the point where I'm not sure houses are sensible at all?

Ah, you really are fully into this house build.

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

NotJustANumber99 posted:

So i can then plug the compressor in and pump up a few bar and wait to see...

You need to worry about more than it working just right now.

One of the first and most basic things I'd be concerned with is if you wiped the flux off of your joints after soldering/braising them. Then there's all manner of "what the gently caress are they going through and how is that going to impact their long term serviceability?" that is not something I can give any guidance on because of your wacky building customs but I can just tell you I'd be running oxygen barrier pex for that. And I'm a traditionalist who thinks (properly installed) copper is better in almost all situations.

Epitope posted:

This is the perfect blend of fancy and trashy

It's beginning to explain the spite fence.

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