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Kawasaki KLR650. Dual sports are like morbidly obese dirt bikes you can ride on the street.
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Jun 7, 2012 01:26
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JP Money posted:Even still, you can just leave the bike in neutral and start it up while you air it up to seat the plug. Definitely a better option than a hand pump if you can find the room enough to store an electric pump in a saddle bag or something. I actually just bought a cheapie Slime brand pump for like 10 or 15 bucks at walmart to fill up car tires and stuff. Works great on bike tires as well and doesn't have a big footprint imo. I have that same slime-brand pump. Autozone was selling that, a pressure gauge, and a plug kit for $15 a few months back. All that crap promptly went under my Bandit's seat. I swapped the cig plug for a battery tender plug, and all is well. Good thing the pump came with a gauge; the one on the pump is garbage.
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Jun 7, 2012 01:27
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Boru posted:Ok that makes sense. So is it worth actually investing in a good tool for the job? A few buddies are trying to get me to build my own like this: http://www.zclub.org.nz/viewtopic.php?t=928&test=test
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Jun 7, 2012 03:57
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Ola posted:A Kawasaki Ninja 250 or a Suzuki GS 500.
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Jun 7, 2012 04:40
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frunksock posted:What's the CA verdict on the CBR250R? Just curious. It's cool to me that you can get ABS on a bike that cheap. Not really a great idea to get a new bike as your first. You're going to drop it or fall off it eventually, everyone does, and you'll feel really lovely about the damage if the bike was pristine beforehand. ABS would be nice, but I say get a used Ninja 250 instead and learn how to properly feather your brakes. You'll lose a few feet in braking distance but it's an important skill to have.
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Jun 7, 2012 04:47
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Sagebrush posted:Not really a great idea to get a new bike as your first. You're going to drop it or fall off it eventually, everyone does, and you'll feel really lovely about the damage if the bike was pristine beforehand. ABS would be nice, but I say get a used Ninja 250 instead and learn how to properly feather your brakes. You'll lose a few feet in braking distance but it's an important skill to have.
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Jun 7, 2012 08:08
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I sat on both a CBR and a Ninja when I was looking for my 1st bike and really preferred the feel of the Ninja.
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Jun 7, 2012 09:19
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Does anyone make inflators that use CO2 cartridges or some similar compressed solution instead of a pump? Or is that impractical? I don't know the physics well enough to calculate what volume something like an airgun CO2 cart will fill at a target PSI. And then there's inflators from roof airbags, but they're probably overkill. 
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Jun 7, 2012 13:48
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Splizwarf posted:Does anyone make inflators that use CO2 cartridges or some similar compressed solution instead of a pump? Or is that impractical? I don't know the physics well enough to calculate what volume something like an airgun CO2 cart will fill at a target PSI. Product descriptions that I've read state that you'll usually use 3-4 (all of them) to fill up a rear tire once. Fun fact, there was a big warning that when CO2 canisters lose all their pressure that quickly, they drop to -64degrees.
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Jun 7, 2012 14:26
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I tried to build something like that myself once. If you ask me, it's worth the $75-$100 it costs for a basic gauge set as opposed to the annoyance of trying to build that poo poo. Depending on what you do with bikes though, you may only ever use that thing once. Rack carb sets don't generally go out of sync that much unless you totally disassemble them. Like each bike may benefit from adjusting every 10 years or so. Less time for dual-cable setups like BMWs, though. It makes sense for me to buy stuff too, but my buddies are twisting my arm to at least try the $10 fix before spending $100.  As the carb balancing is the next major thing I need to do to the bike, and as the tool wouldn't be in until 2 weeks anyway, I guess I have a free shop day to see what I can wrangle together. I'll be sure to post pics. And then if the ghetto rigged manometer fails, I'll just spend the money anyway and it will be no big loss. V  V
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Jun 7, 2012 14:42
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So I can't be bothered to lift my leg up all the way over the bike when I get off, and as such broke my right-side turn signal stalk this afternoon (grrrrrr). What are some good, easy to install replacement turn signals? (I might just bite the bullet and call the Husky dealer; we'll see)
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Jun 7, 2012 19:46
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Dont act like there isnt some sort of threaded pipe you could use in place of a blinker stalk
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Jun 7, 2012 19:59
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so I've moved and my commute is now about 30 minutes of highway time, and it's getting me to think more seriously about safety. First, against better judgement I've only been wearing helmet/jacket/gloves. What do other people do if you wear pants/boots to commute? Also, despite having my bike for almost 2 years, I haven't been on the highway for many rides of 30+ minutes. I can't shake the feeling that my 81 seca is going to catastrophically disintegrate and throw me into a concrete barrier.
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Jun 7, 2012 20:03
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I just sucked it up and
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Jun 7, 2012 20:19
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Dutymode posted:so I've moved and my commute is now about 30 minutes of highway time, and it's getting me to think more seriously about safety. I keep a pair of nice shoes at my desk at work. When I get to work in the morning, I swap my boots for shoes and take off my overpants. If you don't make a big deal about it, odds are no one else will either. Z3n posted:I just sucked it up and I should do this too. I've been meaning to snag a one-piece. So much quicker than a two piece.
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Jun 7, 2012 20:35
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Dutymode posted:What do other people do if you wear pants/boots to commute? I step out of my 'spash pants' (which is what the people at work seem to call them) and put the pants and boots under my desk. (Assuming you have a desk) My normal shoes aren't very big or anything, so I can throw them in a Kreiga bag along with my lunch and laptop. I don't go anywhere without pants/boots. The Kriega US-20 makes commuting really nice and easy.
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Jun 7, 2012 20:43
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So this bike I am thinking about buying (1985 Suzuki Intruder 750) has non working blinkers. The dash light comes on solid when you try to use them, but no blinky. I assume this is a pretty trivial problem? Either a short or a dead relay or bulb or something?
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Jun 7, 2012 21:04
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Sounds like the relay's cooked.
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Jun 7, 2012 21:11
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Dutymode posted:so I've moved and my commute is now about 30 minutes of highway time, and it's getting me to think more seriously about safety. I just keep suits at work and change in the bathroom. I stick my leathers under my desk.
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Jun 7, 2012 21:44
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Dutymode posted:so I've moved and my commute is now about 30 minutes of highway time, and it's getting me to think more seriously about safety. Shoes in tank bag, swap them for my boots when I rock up, leave my leathers at my desk.
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Jun 7, 2012 22:33
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A friend is getting his Bandit 1200 back from the shop soon, after a carb rebuild and rejet. In order to maximize the value of this work, we are curious if there is a way to "upgrade" from the stock on/pri vacuum fuel valve to a manual on/off/res unit. It was simple with the XS750, just swapped in a valve from a XS650; is there a common replacement for these B12s?
clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Jun 7, 2012 |
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Jun 7, 2012 22:41
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Dutymode posted:so I've moved and my commute is now about 30 minutes of highway time, and it's getting me to think more seriously about safety. Neat shoes I keep in a desk drawer. Noone seems to care about my removing my overpants and leaving may jacket and boots at my desk. Everything else in my tank bag which stays in my desk drawer.
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Jun 8, 2012 10:01
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Dutymode posted:so I've moved and my commute is now about 30 minutes of highway time, and it's getting me to think more seriously about safety. I'm lucky that I can get away with wearing riding boots all day at work most days, I keep a pair of regular shoes under my desk. One piece suit gets hung on the coat rack thing, helmet and tank bag sit on my desk.
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Jun 8, 2012 12:39
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clutchpuck posted:A friend is getting his Bandit 1200 back from the shop soon, after a carb rebuild and rejet. In order to maximize the value of this work, we are curious if there is a way to "upgrade" from the stock on/pri vacuum fuel valve to a manual on/off/res unit. It was simple with the XS750, just swapped in a valve from a XS650; is there a common replacement for these B12s? Pingle makes a valve for the b12, but it's way overkill for the stock carbs. I'd really only do it if there is a problem with the stock petcock or if your buddy had his carbs cleaned at a shop for his 300hp turbo B12 As for oem replacements, all suzukis built during that time were using the same style of on/pri/res petcock. There may be something older that will work, but it's a crapshoot. Any particular reason you don't like the stocker? It works fine Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 13:19 on Jun 8, 2012 |
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Jun 8, 2012 13:16
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NitroSpazzz posted:I'm lucky that I can get away with wearing riding boots all day at work most days, I keep a pair of regular shoes under my desk. One piece suit gets hung on the coat rack thing, helmet and tank bag sit on my desk. I would do this, but my feet would get all sweaty/stanky. Also, I like to be barefoot (just wearing socks) at my desk. I really only use the shoes for meetings, bathroom breaks, coffee runs, etc.
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Jun 8, 2012 14:47
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clutchpuck posted:A friend is getting his Bandit 1200 back from the shop soon, after a carb rebuild and rejet. In order to maximize the value of this work, we are curious if there is a way to "upgrade" from the stock on/pri vacuum fuel valve to a manual on/off/res unit. It was simple with the XS750, just swapped in a valve from a XS650; is there a common replacement for these B12s? Downgrading a vacuum controlled petcock to a manual isn't going maximize any value of anything.
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Jun 8, 2012 15:44
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Sir Cornelius posted:Downgrading a vacuum controlled petcock to a manual isn't going maximize any value of anything. Reduced chance of non-repairable failure condition on the road. Makes stuck floats really fun if you don't set it to off.
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Jun 8, 2012 15:56
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I changed the oil in my bike last night, something i have never done before. Everything seemed to go good but this morning when i woke up I checked and there is a small amount of oil leaking from the drain plug. I tightened it according to spec, put in a new crush washer and I think I did everything right. But that small drip makes me think I screwed up. One thing I can think of is maybe I put the washer on the wrong way? One side was curved and the other flat, I put the flat side towards the bike. I don't want to over tighten and I don't want to waste all that oil but will I have to redrain and put in new oil again?
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Jun 8, 2012 16:01
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Olde Weird Tip posted:Any particular reason you don't like the stocker? It works fine Mostly because a manual valve makes it easy to drain the float bowls for when the bike is not being ridden indefinitely. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 16:30 on Jun 8, 2012 |
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Jun 8, 2012 16:27
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clutchpuck posted:Mostly because a manual valve makes it easy to drain the float bowls for when the bike is not being ridden indefinitely. Not if the stock one works. There's no vacuum if the engine isn't running. Just set it at on and drain away.
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Jun 8, 2012 16:36
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shaitan posted:One thing I can think of is maybe I put the washer on the wrong way? One side was curved and the other flat, I put the flat side towards the bike. I don't want to over tighten and I don't want to waste all that oil but will I have to redrain and put in new oil again? If you use a clean container I don't see a reason why you would need to use new oil when draining to fix something.
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Jun 8, 2012 16:46
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Ziploc posted:If you use a clean container I don't see a reason why you would need to use new oil when draining to fix something. I was going to say this. Unless you get sand or dirt or water in it, the oil you drain out can be put right back in with no ill effects. Oil breaks down with heat, pressure and time, not just from being poured into the crankcase.
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Jun 8, 2012 17:18
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Noticed a small puddle of oil, which was dripping off the shifter. I followed the leak and can't tell where it's coming from http://imgur.com/a/JYrUr  E: I checked the oil and it's full. epswing fucked around with this message at 17:37 on Jun 8, 2012 |
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Jun 8, 2012 17:34
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epswing posted:Noticed a small puddle of oil, which was dripping off the shifter. I followed the leak and can't tell where it's coming from http://imgur.com/a/JYrUr Whats up GS500 buddy?  What you're seeing is most likely chain grease and road grime leaking from behind the sprocket cover. I would pull off the cover and degrease/clean everything (might as well clean your chain while you're at it) and see if it comes back. If it does, then it might be your oil pan gasket. See here: http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=59026.msg672659#msg672659 Also a great site to get advice/info for the GSTwin bikes. SeeYouEnTee fucked around with this message at 17:44 on Jun 8, 2012 |
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Jun 8, 2012 17:41
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epswing posted:Noticed a small puddle of oil, which was dripping off the shifter. I followed the leak and can't tell where it's coming from http://imgur.com/a/JYrUr My guess would be counter-shaft seal unless you're a militant chain-lubricator.
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Jun 8, 2012 17:41
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Ziploc posted:If you use a clean container I don't see a reason why you would need to use new oil when draining to fix something. Thanks, I was hoping this was the case. Any idea what I may have done wrong? Might the direction of the drain washer matter? It had a curved side and a flat side.
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Jun 8, 2012 18:04
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shaitan posted:Thanks, I was hoping this was the case. Any idea what I may have done wrong? Might the direction of the drain washer matter? It had a curved side and a flat side. Oil drips sometimes. If I were you, I'd wait and see if any more oil drips out before getting worked up.
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Jun 8, 2012 18:08
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Sir Cornelius posted:Not if the stock one works. There's no vacuum if the engine isn't running. Just set it at on and drain away. Whaa? I thought the whole point of a vacuum petcock was to prevent fuel from flowing when it is set to on and the engine is not running. http://dr350.wikia.com/wiki/Vacuum_petcock
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Jun 8, 2012 18:11
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Yes, that's what he said too (he's talking about draining the bowls, not the tank). No engine -> no vacuum -> no flow.
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Jun 8, 2012 18:17
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MotoMind posted:Whaa? I thought the whole point of a vacuum petcock was to prevent fuel from flowing when it is set to on and the engine is not running. MotoMind, you're drunk again 
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Jun 8, 2012 18:23
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