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Day Man posted:I, too, experienced the "new rider runs out of gas" experience last week. I just did this yesterday. Couldn't figure out what the hell was going on when the bike shut off by itself (didn't seem like I stalled it) so I pushed my bike back to my apartment (only 1 block from where it "died" but up a steep hill). When I called my friend and he told me all I had to do was switch the gas to reserve and go fill the thing up...
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Jun 26, 2012 00:24
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| # ? May 15, 2024 08:22 |
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I'm taking another stab at the Japanese 400cc test again on Friday. Hopefully I can work in a practice lesson at the bike school next door to the testing center beforehand to get warmed-up (really helped with the car exam, which I passed on my first attempt), but the bike exam is only offered first thing in the morning, so it may not be possible. Aside from some overly wide lines on the corners because of the rain, and missing a part I was supposed to accelerate on (didn't know I was supposed to), I think the main thing that sunk me last time was the emergency braking at the end. It's only done from 25-28mph and is within a pretty reasonable distance, but I flinched and braked a little too early. Any good mental technique for making sure I'm past the cones before I start to apply the brakes? I was a bit distracted by the speedo last time making sure I kept the bike's speed up. Just to be sure, from what I think the examiner was telling me last time about the braking itself: go into it adding more and more pressure to the rear brake, then start to add a bit of front. Does that sound right? I'm pretty confident in my ability to stop within the given distance, it's mostly just not doing it too soon. Was originally going to do it tomorrow but there's a 100% chance of heavy rain, so gently caress that. If there's any interest in seeing how Japan does things, I could try scanning some of the course maps the driving school gave me that show everywhere to indicate/cancel your indicators, get over to the other side of the lane, etc. I don't think there's any way I'd pass without them, a lot of it is kinda counter-intuitive.
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Jun 26, 2012 00:43
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Practice in a parking lot seeing how far past the braking starting marker you can go while still coming to a controlled stop in the required stopping distance. Once you're no longer concerned about making it because you overshot the marker, you shouldn't have any problems  I'd also get comfortable with hearing where the bike's RPMs are supposed to be when you're going at the appropriate speed, so you can rely on sound to hear the speed, over having to look at the speedo. Get the bike to a certain speed, listen to the sound it makes, and then make it stay at that sound to keep the speed the same. Ideal technique would be simultaneous front and rear application, adding to the front and tailing off the rear as weight transfers forward, but in panic braking situations with decent traction I tend to go with entirely the front and don't bother with the rear. In the rain, I'd use both brakes and just feel out the limits of traction as best I could. I'd be curious to see the maps if you don't mind scanning some Good luck!
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Jun 26, 2012 00:48
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Are Kevlar riding jeans a legit thing, or they a gimmick? Are they considered adequate protection for urban commuting and freeway riding?
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Jun 26, 2012 01:23
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Guinness posted:Are Kevlar riding jeans a legit thing, or they a gimmick? Are they considered adequate protection for urban commuting and freeway riding? I wear them, mine have kneepads as well. I haven't crashed in them so I can't tell you much more than that.
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Jun 26, 2012 01:31
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Guinness posted:Are Kevlar riding jeans a legit thing, or they a gimmick? Are they considered adequate protection for urban commuting and freeway riding? They're better for abrasion than ordinary jeans, but the impact resistance is lacking. I hit my knee on a 5mph spill (gently caress gravel) and bruised my knee pretty badly. Had to stay out of the gym for a week. EDIT: I was wearing Icon Jeans at the time. AfricanBootyShine fucked around with this message at 02:37 on Jun 26, 2012 |
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Jun 26, 2012 01:39
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Guinness posted:Are Kevlar riding jeans a legit thing, or they a gimmick? Are they considered adequate protection for urban commuting and freeway riding?
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Jun 26, 2012 01:45
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Anybody have suggestions on riding books? I'm tempted by Twist of the Wrist 2. I've seen the DVD and it seemed like pretty awesome information. Total Control by Lee Parks looks pretty good too. e: I don't have a bike yet, I just want to kill time reading about things I already spent too much time thinking about anyway. And learning.
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Jun 26, 2012 02:22
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Hypnolobster posted:Anybody have suggestions on riding books? I'm tempted by Twist of the Wrist 2. I've seen the DVD and it seemed like pretty awesome information. I'm a new rider and am reading "Proficient Motorcycling: The Ultimate Guide to Riding Well" by David Hough. It's great! I started twist if the wrist, but it was more racing oriented than I wanted. This one is filled with very practical advice about riding on public roads.
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Jun 26, 2012 02:46
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Guinness posted:Are Kevlar riding jeans a legit thing, or they a gimmick? Are they considered adequate protection for urban commuting and freeway riding? Riding jeans tend to have at least some of the downside of other moto pants - high price, goofy looks, quirky fit - with generally lower protection capability. They focus on abrasion resistance, which is important, but tend to ignore shock absorption, particularly to the fragile knee. There's also a lot of variation in how different brands do the kevlar attachment and coverage, and not much more than anecdotal data about what's sufficient. The really cheap ones in particular are little more than heavy denim. Basically you're better off in kevlar riding jeans than mall jeans, especially if you add knee armor, but you can do as well or better with inexpensive overpants, and far better with real moto pants. Besides, no jeans will make your rear end look as delicious as well-fitting leather.
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Jun 26, 2012 03:16
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Hypnolobster posted:e: I don't have a bike yet, I just want to kill time reading about things I already spent too much time thinking about anyway. And learning. If you're a beginning rider, start with Proficient Motorcycling
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Jun 26, 2012 05:49
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:It's a 12l tank. You ran out of gas. You've only got 2-2.5 hours of gas in the thing total. Get your petcock fixed. "RES" will give you another 100km or so to find a gas station. 12L tank? That's odd, considering I put about 15 liters in mine the other day  (It's a 19L tank, including reserve)
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Jun 26, 2012 08:23
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I was putting along the highway on my way home from work and the Rebel decides that instead of delivering power to the wheel, it'll just rev like a mofo. Eventually it got to the point where I had to pull off to the side. I'm thinking it's a clutch issue and hoping it just needs to be adjusted. I can't play with it, though, until the battery charger I just ordered arrives. I killed the battery waiting for Roadside Assistance.
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Jun 26, 2012 08:36
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Guinness posted:Are Kevlar riding jeans a legit thing, or they a gimmick? Are they considered adequate protection for urban commuting and freeway riding? I like my cortech DSX jeans, they have leather reinforcement instead of kevlar but they come with 2 CE knee pads, pretty comfy on and off the bike.
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Jun 26, 2012 08:56
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KozmoNaut posted:12L tank? I'm bad at math.
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Jun 26, 2012 11:35
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Help me CA! I went to get my bike out this morning for my ride to work and the funking disc lock won't unlock. I can't even turn the key! I've bought some compressed air and I'm hoping shooting that into the mechanism will clear out any gunk. Any other ideas? Edit: This is the actual lock if it matters. ReformedNiceGuy fucked around with this message at 13:06 on Jun 26, 2012 |
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Jun 26, 2012 12:38
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Try WD-40 or PB Blaster or a similar penetrating spray and massage the lock with the key before trying to unlock it, then throw out the lock and replace it once you manage to remove it.
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Jun 26, 2012 13:19
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KozmoNaut posted:Try WD-40 or PB Blaster or a similar penetrating spray and massage the lock with the key before trying to unlock it, then throw out the lock and replace it once you manage to remove it. Will WD-40 not leave a sticky residue behind?
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Jun 26, 2012 13:40
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ReformedNiceGuy posted:Will WD-40 not leave a sticky residue behind? It may but you need the lock off and you don't want to use that lock again so does it matter? Use the red tube to spray directly into the lock this way there's no over spray. I use cable lube on stuck locks and works better than WD-40 for me.
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Jun 26, 2012 13:44
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^^^^ PTFE spray is even better, but most people aren't likely to have it.ReformedNiceGuy posted:Will WD-40 not leave a sticky residue behind? Not really, it pretty much just dries out with only a tiny bit of greasiness left behind. But you'll only let it sit for a little while as you're working the lock, and you'll be discarding the lock afterwards, anyway.
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Jun 26, 2012 13:45
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Also, you will get some of whatever lubricant you use on your brake disk, so buy some brake cleaner because that poo poo aint coming off any other way. EDIT: Also DO NOT MOVE THE BIKE before you clean the disk, as all the lube thats on the disk will then get schmeared onto the pads as well.
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Jun 26, 2012 14:23
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ifire posted:I was putting along the highway on my way home from work and the Rebel decides that instead of delivering power to the wheel, it'll just rev like a mofo. Eventually it got to the point where I had to pull off to the side. I'm thinking it's a clutch issue and hoping it just needs to be adjusted. I can't play with it, though, until the battery charger I just ordered arrives. I killed the battery waiting for Roadside Assistance. Yes, it's probably the clutch cable being too tight. Check the adjuster at the handlebar and the free play in the lever.
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Jun 26, 2012 14:49
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Thanks for the replies chaps, I'll pick some brake cleaner up on the way home too. I'll be posting later hopefully with good news
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Jun 26, 2012 15:14
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Grudgingly, I'm going to admit you are right. An OEM side stand is $70-something. It does have to be shipped from California, which is annoying, but I will admit I was getting overwhelmed trying to create a CAD model of the broken kickstand last night. I think I'll semi-permanently affix a larger kickstand puck and call it a summer.
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Jun 26, 2012 15:21
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Z3n posted:Yes, it's probably the clutch cable being too tight. Check the adjuster at the handlebar and the free play in the lever. Right on, thats what I was hoping. I'm not ready to tear into the bike yet 
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Jun 26, 2012 17:08
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aventari posted:Here's a 1 cent kickstand puck Hey that's what I use! I also have some street hockey pucks that are tapered in the middle. These grip the kickstand better and let the bike lean a bit more. Related items: http://www.amazon.com/Jaybird-And-Mais-Hockey-Tape/dp/B000QBS3I4/ref=pd_sim_sg_3 Guilty pleasure; colorful grip tape on the levers makes actuation so much easier.
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Jun 26, 2012 18:48
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Sagebrush posted:If you can get a left-handed drill bit, try that first. Often the counter-clockwise torque pulls the bolt out on its own without having to bother with ez-outs or helicoils or anything like that. Notably, ez-outs will destroy the bolt, so if that doesn't work your only choice is to drill a now weakened and damaged bolt. Starting with a LH drill gives you more options. Seconding this. http://gnarlywrench.blogspot.com/2011/09/they-should-call-them-not-so-easy-outs.html 
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Jun 26, 2012 18:56
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I ran out of spray lube and since I'm money-poor, hunted around in the basement and found a container of Bel-Ray waterproof chain grease that the P.O. of my old Ninja 636 gave me along with the bike. The label says it's for motorcycles as well. It's this thick, dark green goop that needs to be put on the chain by hand. Anyone use this before? Any opinions?
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Jun 26, 2012 20:12
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I'd run a dry chain over a goop chain. That gunk is horrible and sprays everywhere. Previous owner gave me a can of chain wax and it's nearly impossible to get off of hands, clothing, shoes-- everything. If you have motor oil lying around, that's another great option for chain lube.
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Jun 26, 2012 20:32
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Xovaan posted:I'd run a dry chain over a goop chain. That gunk is horrible and sprays everywhere. Previous owner gave me a can of chain wax and it's nearly impossible to get off of hands, clothing, shoes-- everything. Yeah, if you have any spare motor oil laying around just use that instead. Just be prepared for it to get slung everywhere on your first ride out. (In other works make sure your chain guard is on if you have one.)
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Jun 26, 2012 21:19
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The one really, really nice advantage to clip-style master links is the ability to take off the chain easily and give it a good cleaning. I used to really love on my dirt bike chains to take them off the bike and hang them up so I could clean them really easily and then lube them with chain wax and clear all the excess off. Not recommended for sport bikes with 2-3x the power though. If you're a fan of taking off your swing arm or busting links every time this could work I suppose. Wax is fine it just needs heated a bit for it to flow. What I usually do is put my bike on the rear stand and either get someone else to spin the tire while you hold a towel tight to the chain or push the tire with your opposite hand while you do the same towel maneuver. A lot of people tend to lube the plate side of the chain and not the actual o-rings / pin area. You will probably get enough lube on the plates just by spinning the chain so don't go crazy on that. Focus the spray on the inside business area of the chain and don't go overboard. It seems like that's why a lot of people bitch about huge amounts of fling-off lube.
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Jun 26, 2012 22:01
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What is the CA-recommended chain lubricating fluid? I usually use something or another that I find in Ace Hardware; it's supposed to be a chainsaw chain lube.
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Jun 26, 2012 22:06
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Safety Dance posted:What is the CA-recommended chain lubricating fluid? I usually use something or another that I find in Ace Hardware; it's supposed to be a chainsaw chain lube. Personally I use Dupont Teflon chain lube. You can find it in most Wal Marts for around 6-8 bucks in the automotive section, bright yellow can.
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Jun 26, 2012 22:12
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I just use 90w gear oil. If you apply it lightly, it doesn't fling off terribly. Doesn't take a lot.
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Jun 26, 2012 22:38
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Pompous Rhombus posted:I'm taking another stab at the Japanese 400cc test again on Friday. Hopefully I can work in a practice lesson at the bike school next door to the testing center beforehand to get warmed-up (really helped with the car exam, which I passed on my first attempt), but the bike exam is only offered first thing in the morning, so it may not be possible. I think Singapore copied all this stuff from Japan, albeit they're a little less crazy. There was a shitload of staged off-road testing on simulated road courses that you had to be passed on in sequential stages, then more on the road, then the actual test. That was just for a 125 licence...
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Jun 26, 2012 23:08
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Z3n posted:I just use 90w gear oil. If you apply it lightly, it doesn't fling off terribly. Doesn't take a lot. Ditto, though with O-ring chains I don't bother much as long as it's not rusting or very dry. It's hardly needed.
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Jun 26, 2012 23:33
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MotoMind posted:Ditto, though with O-ring chains I don't bother much as long as it's not rusting or very dry. It's hardly needed. With my roller chains I just put it on the lift, spin that rear tire, and squirt a bead of the PJ-1 throughout one chain rotation. Then I grab the chain with a rag in my hand and turn it through the rag one rotation. Seems to work pretty well and I don't seem to get a lot of fling.
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Jun 27, 2012 00:09
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Well that was the most anticlimactic thing. After spraying some WD-40 into my sheared bolt and letting it drain through, I discovered I could freely turn the bolt around just by dragging the tip of my nail punch around the edge of it in a circle. Once it was peaking out from the top I could practically spin it out by hand. v vNow considering staying up tonight to sync carbs and put everything back together..
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Jun 27, 2012 01:06
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timn posted:Well that was the most anticlimactic thing. After spraying some WD-40 into my sheared bolt and letting it drain through, I discovered I could freely turn the bolt around just by dragging the tip of my nail punch around the edge of it in a circle. Once it was peaking out from the top I could practically spin it out by hand. v My advice is to not stay up all night working on carbs. You'll lose something or put something on wrong in the wee hours of the night.
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Jun 27, 2012 01:12
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front wing flexing posted:My advice is to not stay up all night working on carbs. You'll lose something or put something on wrong in the wee hours of the night.  Sagebrush likes this.Better to make sure that you get the carbs together properly the first time, so that you don't have a mysterious problem later down the line that requires draining and taking them off and resynching and rebuilding and so on.
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Jun 27, 2012 01:37
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