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Z3n posted:You need to fill from the radiator. With air in there, it's never going pull the fresh fluid through from the reserve tank. You're essentially running minus that quart + of coolant. velocross posted:Pretty much, yeah. The system needs to be bled of air. You mentioned you have a manual, should be mentioned in the general operating stuff about filling fluids. Both of you were right. I'm such an idiot, I don't know why I didn't think of that. It was a pain in the rear end taking off both pieces of my seat, my bag on my luggage rack, gas tank, and side panel, but it looks like that was the problem. I added roughly a quart and went for a 15 mile ride and didn't have the temperature light come on.
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Nov 11, 2012 18:50
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Revisiting my issue: (dying if stopped in first gear, trouble starting) It does seem to be the plug's coil. I replaced both coils and the wire harness and now the bike starts and runs strong. Just an update...
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Nov 12, 2012 22:37
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Does this sound like a wrist pin tick? http://youtu.be/7Vcur_mmC-A The video makes it sound way louder than it is. It sounds more like valvetrain noise but I've set the lash and checked the cam chain tension(er) with no difference. It definitely sounds like it's coming from the top end. The bike is a 82 Yamaha SR250 with just over 7k miles (rescued from a field). Not that a picture makes a difference but here it is. 
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Nov 15, 2012 00:17
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I've been trying to eek out a bit more lighting performance out of my stock Suzuki naked headlight. (Bandit/SV650 naked style) Was looking for a good quality H4 bulb. Noticed this forum post from '07 http://gsri.info/forum/board1-technical-area/board21-electric/board50-lighting/138-test-halogen-light-bulbs/?highlight=bulb Have things changed significantly since?
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Nov 15, 2012 06:23
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CA hivemind, I have something a bit out of the norm for you. I have a friend interested in learning to ride and he's open to doing it in the proper CA MSF Riderfriendly Bestwaytorideabike way. That's to say he's taken my advice to take a rider course, buy a learner bike, and get the right gear. Job done for me, here's where I need help. He's a big guy, my guess is 6'6", around 280 lbs, and importantly size 18 feet. Gear wise this is Merica: jacket, pants, gloves etc. should be no problem for him. For boots tho? I don't know what to tell him. So far the advice has been to get decent leather boots early on and maybe get some custom jobs done. The other thing is his size with a starter bike. He's open to starting on a bike that will let him learn, but I'm not sure what to suggest for his size and weight. I'm tall at 6'3" but skinny at 160, and while a 250 Ninja was a tight fit I could ride it well. For him I feel like while the engine would be weak but workable, the bike size and suspension would just be too weak. What's a good bike for someone of his weight and size?
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Nov 15, 2012 08:16
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Dual sports and supermotos are really the only bikes that would fit him comfortably. And his weight would limit him to dual sports. Unless he wants a cruiser, but I can't imagine one being very fun for that height either. Tall people woo  
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Nov 15, 2012 08:26
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nsaP posted:CA hivemind, I have something a bit out of the norm for you. I have a friend interested in learning to ride and he's open to doing it in the proper CA MSF Riderfriendly Bestwaytorideabike way. Can Am Spider - no, no, just kidding. http://www.suzukicycles.org/DR-series/DR750-800S-Big.shtml Ideal for the 'big and tall' rider.
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Nov 15, 2012 08:56
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Hey guys, mileage related question: My mate has got a '95 CB400 and just took it on an about 45km trip and used an entire tank of fuel sitting at about 6500rpm in top gear on a highway. He'd probably weigh about 80kg and is about 5"8 tall, what would be causing this bad mileage? e: It's got R6 cams and heads and a custom exhaust or some poo poo, but he's also been loving around with it a lot lately, I know he cleaned the carbs and has been playing around with the wiring and such.
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Nov 15, 2012 11:16
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My stupid question for the week. One of my bar ends has fallen out (clutch side) at some point. I'm going to grab some new ones today but should there be anything inside the tube for the bar end to attach to? Looking inside it's just an empty tube!
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Nov 15, 2012 11:31
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ReformedNiceGuy posted:My stupid question for the week. One of my bar ends has fallen out (clutch side) at some point. I'm going to grab some new ones today but should there be anything inside the tube for the bar end to attach to? As the extremely pro diagram below illustrates, the bar end has a bolt ( [~~~~~ ) running down the center which is threaded onto a v-shaped portion at the end (< sign, far right). When you tighten that bolt, the v-shaped portion moves closer to the head of the bolt, where it presses against some wings (< sign with two slashes, center) that expand and press against the inside of the bar. The bar end is held in place with friction. code:
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Nov 15, 2012 12:23
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Shimrod posted:Hey guys, mileage related question: at that rate his fuel economy would be 39L/100K which somehow doesn't seem right to me. That leads me to believe 1 of 3 things. 1: His Bike is leaking fuel/the fuel line came off. I've seen the latter happen on a CBR250RR before because someone had taken the tank off and not noticed/cared that the hoseclamp went missing. 2: He didn't have as much fuel as he thought he did 3: He fitted one of those ultra hip lockless gas caps and someone pinched some fuel Being that he has been screwing with the carbs, I'd suggest checking to make sure the hoses are all secured properly. theperminator fucked around with this message at 12:38 on Nov 15, 2012 |
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Nov 15, 2012 12:34
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theperminator posted:at that rate his fuel economy would be 39L/100K which somehow doesn't seem right to me. Cheers dude, he put up on his feed: " I may have the mixture screws out 2 3/4.... I dunno... Maybe blocked air filter too, will deal with it tomorrow afternoon" e: I know he has a lockable fuel cap, it's possible he didn't have as much fuel as he thought, but I think he filled up before he left.
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Nov 15, 2012 14:06
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Question about heated grips: my Bandit came with Oxford Heaterz grips, wired directly to the battery. This didn't cause me any troubles until I left them on one Friday night and didnt go use my bike til Sunday, at which point the bike wouldn't turn over. I stuck the battery on the charger for about 10 minutes, which was enough to get it started and on my way. However, now the grips won't get warm anymore. It's weird. I tracked down the manual, which claims that the controller will shut itself off when the voltage drops below 11.5 volts. When I checked the battery after I left the grips on, it was around 12 V. After an overnight charge, it's around 13.5 V, but the grips still won't get warm. The green On light on the controller comes on, but none of the 4 power level lights will. Any ideas on how to track the issue down? I took the controller and all the other wiring off for now, but I was thinking of putting it all back temporarily this weekend and trying to turn them on while the battery is hooked up to a bigger charger.
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Nov 15, 2012 14:33
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Depending on how long it took for the battery die, if it was long, the heating elements could have just burnt out.
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Nov 15, 2012 14:36
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Also, I always tell people to get heated gloves. There are some gloves that have Li-ion batteries that are amazing. And because they don't have wires, they're so much more versatile.
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Nov 15, 2012 14:38
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I could buy like three pairs of Hot Gripz for a pair of battery powered gloves, though. (Prove me wrong and I'll buy some gloves, my hands are freezing!
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Nov 15, 2012 14:44
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Safety Dance posted:I could buy like three pairs of Hot Gripz for a pair of battery powered gloves, though. (Prove me wrong and I'll buy some gloves, my hands are freezing! I'm not saying they're not expensive. But they're worth it. They're some cheap ones out there that run off of AA batteries that are decent. And by cheap I mean $30. They're are also wired gloves out there that are easier to install compared to the grips.
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Nov 15, 2012 14:48
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front wing flexing posted:I'm not saying they're not expensive. But they're worth it. Link?
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Nov 15, 2012 17:40
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Link? Agreed. That and two of these could probably last me all winter: http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-AA-Alkaline-Batteries-Pack/dp/B00422KWTQ/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1352997737&sr=8-8&keywords=batteries
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Nov 15, 2012 17:43
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Link? These are okay: http://www.target.com/p/grabber-bat...ci_sku=13811172 Like I said, these are the low end. The gloves are decent on their own but the heating element is okay too. The batteries aren't rechargeable and they'll only last eight hours or so. But you can get rechargeable AAs that will help with the cost. I moved up to a pair that's about $175. They're awesome. I use them from riding to skiing and have no regrets on the purchase.
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Nov 15, 2012 17:46
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front wing flexing posted:These are okay: http://www.target.com/p/grabber-bat...ci_sku=13811172 They're really not going to give much in the way of crash protection though, are they? I've heard of people modifying their own gloves to be heated with some cloth tape and some megaohm resistors, but that seems a bit ghetto. Personally I've found putting another layer or two on my body does a pretty good job of keeping my hands warm, with thermal glove liners as a last line of defence, but I don't really have to cope with below-freezing temperatures that often.
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Nov 15, 2012 17:56
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goddamnedtwisto posted:They're really not going to give much in the way of crash protection though, are they? They also sell heated glove inserts.
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Nov 15, 2012 18:13
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Safety Dance posted:As the extremely pro diagram below illustrates, the bar end has a bolt ( [~~~~~ ) running down the center which is threaded onto a v-shaped portion at the end (< sign, far right). When you tighten that bolt, the v-shaped portion moves closer to the head of the bolt, where it presses against some wings (< sign with two slashes, center) that expand and press against the inside of the bar. The bar end is held in place with friction. Hah nice diagram  . I picked some cheap ones up at lunch until I can get some originals. The cheap ones look just that unfortunately.
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Nov 15, 2012 18:22
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Xovaan posted:Dual sports and supermotos are really the only bikes that would fit him comfortably. And his weight would limit him to dual sports. Unless he wants a cruiser, but I can't imagine one being very fun for that height either. Tall people woo I was wondering about UJMs and 500s as well, tho with a UJM you risk spending more time wrenching than riding.
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Nov 15, 2012 23:49
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An EX-500 might work, and actually he'd probably be more comfortable than I am on it. I'm 5'11" and it puts me in this awkward position where I'm not leaned forward or completely upright. The suspension however will be gasping for air at 280 lbs.
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Nov 16, 2012 00:05
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Right, coming home tonight, noticed my clutch was dragging very slightly (bike was trying to creep forward with the clutch in at standstill) and decided to give it a quick check once I get home. Twenty minutes later, at a set of lights - pop it into gear and the whole bike strains forward and the revs drop to 1,000, and of course it stalls the moment I try to pull away. Get it back into neutral, go to try again resolving to use a shitload more revs as i pulled away, just to get home, and the clutch lever goes straight back to the bar with no resistance, and needless to say it stalls as soon as I put it in first. Luckily I was only a mile from home (unluckily most of that distance appears to be straight up when you're pushing the bloody thing in full gear). It's a bit too dark to do any serious work but the master cylinder (hydraulic clutch) fluid level appears to be below the sight glass level, although there does seem to be a little bit of fluid still in the cylinder itself. There's no evidence of a fluid leak anywhere in the system (that I can see, the hoses go behind the fairing but they're braided steel so I'd be very surprised if they were the problem, but the banjo bolts at both ends are dry as a bone, as is the clutch and surrounding areas). Tomorrow I'm going to grab some fresh fluid, dump it in, and bleed the system to see how that goes - anything else you think i should be checking?
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Nov 16, 2012 19:42
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My guess would be that it was low to start with, and as the clutch plates wore down, eventually you ran out of fluid in the reservoir and the clutch stops working entirely. I might pull the clutch MC and verify that it's not leaking internally, depending on design.
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Nov 16, 2012 20:00
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Z3n posted:My guess would be that it was low to start with, and as the clutch plates wore down, eventually you ran out of fluid in the reservoir and the clutch stops working entirely. I might pull the clutch MC and verify that it's not leaking internally, depending on design. Yeah, I've been racking my brains for the last time I actually checked the level and I have a horrible feeling it was some time in the summer. I'm surprised it died quite so quickly but I suppose it just sucked in two or three pumps of air and that was enough. (I *do* check front and back brakes every week when I wash the bike but it's nigh-impossible to get at the clutch master cylinder when the bike is up on the stand for that because my garden is so small so, erm...)
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Nov 16, 2012 20:22
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Just realized - that shouldn't be the master cylinder you should check for leaks but the slave cylinder/pushrod assembly.
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Nov 16, 2012 20:39
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Z3n posted:Just realized - that shouldn't be the master cylinder you should check for leaks but the slave cylinder/pushrod assembly. They are certainly known to leak on the RSV/rotax lump.
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Nov 16, 2012 20:46
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Are you sure that the cable going from your lever to the clutch is intact? Mine slowly failed over a period of a week or two, then finally snapped completely. Symptoms were very similar to what you described.
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Nov 17, 2012 02:27
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It's a hydraulic clutch. Just check for leaks and bleed and it and go from there
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Nov 17, 2012 02:40
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What is the point of a dipstick with a keylock on it? are people afraid their oil will be stolen?
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Nov 17, 2012 11:04
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I had a little shitfuck put a ballpoint pen into my motorcycle's oil tank while it was parked at work one day. I know because I had to clean melted Bic out of oil passages later that day after 30 minutes on the highway.
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Nov 17, 2012 18:37
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Geirskogul posted:I had a little shitfuck put a ballpoint pen into my motorcycle's oil tank while it was parked at work one day. I know because I had to clean melted Bic out of oil passages later that day after 30 minutes on the highway. 
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Nov 17, 2012 22:41
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Wow, that's a pretty lovely move. Do you mean the melted plastic got into, like, the actual oil passages inside the block? Wouldn't that clog them up entirely? Or was it just melted goo floating in the sump? How did you make sure you got rid of it all? I figured the locking dipstick would just be to stop some hoodlum from stealing it on a whim, but I guess preventing sabotage is good too.
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Nov 17, 2012 22:46
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Geirskogul posted:I had a little shitfuck put a ballpoint pen into my motorcycle's oil tank while it was parked at work one day. I know because I had to clean melted Bic out of oil passages later that day after 30 minutes on the highway. Jesus christ, thanks for giving me one more thing to be paranoid about when parking my bike away from my home garage.
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Nov 17, 2012 22:51
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It was a Royal Enfield AVL engine, so it has, like, two oil passages to clean out; one of the two is an external line, and the other is the equivalent to a 1" long 6mm, straight tube between the tank and crank. Melted plastic was around and clogging the first oil pump intake - imagine what it would look like dripping melted wax onto a sink drain mesh. I'm just glad that I caught it during the soft seize phase before it actually locked up. When I felt it, I pulled my enricher lever out (I had some two-stroke oil mixed with the gas - on hot days on the highway with a new Enfield, especially just after break-in, you'll know what I'm talking about) and stopped off to the side. The Enfield motors run drat near 0 PSI oil pressure when warm, just a slow drip down the valve train (they're total-loss oil systems converted to scavenge systems with the addition of an oil control ring, a second oil pump, and better valve stem seals, it's an old design). I can't imagine what would have happened if I was running an 80PSI system like on a real motorcycle.
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Nov 17, 2012 22:56
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Guinness posted:Jesus christ, thanks for giving me one more thing to be paranoid about when parking my bike away from my home garage. http://www.motovationusa.com/mvstore/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=487 These are awfully pretty. (Seriously, I want a locking cap now. gently caress getting an oil temp one.)
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Nov 17, 2012 22:57
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| # ? May 16, 2024 18:35 |
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aventari posted:It's a hydraulic clutch. Welp, something above my skill level is happening here. Bizarrely, this morning, there was resistance on the lever. I connected up the bleeder, opened up the nipple, and got a massive splurge of fluid out (settle down Beavis). Obviously at that point there was no longer any resistance at the lever so I topped up the fluid (it wasn't anywhere near as low as I thought it was, although it was still low) and started pumping. There were a few bubbles but nothing special (and the fluid was remarkably clean and clear for being in the bike for over a year), and then it just stopped. Pumping the lever no longer moved oil out through the bleeder. Going back to the old-school way of doing it (in case the one-way valve in the bleeder had failed or something) and it would move a tiny amount of oil out but the moment there was any resistance (like, say, moving the hose up a little so more fluid sat in it) it would stop working again. So my guess is that the master cylinder seal has gone - when pumping through the bleeder hose it's fine, but any amount of back pressure and it just lets the fluid past it, and all of the pumping this morning just finished it off. Whatever it is, it's a shop job - I've not got the facilities or the skill to cope with a rebuild and the bike's my only form of transport at the moment so I'll have to get it recovered tomorrow (thankfully there's a good garage that's most of the way to work so I can at least avoid public transport on a Monday morning). Anyone fancy taking a guess how loving much this will cost me 6 weeks before Christmas?
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Nov 18, 2012 16:06
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