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theperminator posted:What is the point of a dipstick with a keylock on it? are people afraid their oil will be stolen? People will steal anything. Someone stole the oil cap on my old jeep wrangler, and I didn't notice until the oil light came on after it finished spraying oil all over the under-hood area.
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Nov 18, 2012 16:24
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Twisto, should only be an hour of shop labor plus the cost of the rebuild kit.
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Nov 18, 2012 19:25
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this time of year shops are pretty empty too, so it shouldn't take too long either (barring waiting for parts to arrive from Italy or something).
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Nov 18, 2012 20:29
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So I've had a Honda Rebel 250 for 3.5 years because I pretty much haven't been able to afford a new bike. We'll I've got a fancy new job post grad school so I'm looking to upgrade. I can't decide if I should stick with a cruiser and get a HD Iron 883 (but I'm worried about reliability) or the new Honda CB500F (but I'm worried that it won't have enough power since they are still marketing it as a beginner bike). So my questions are, how reliable are Harleys and do you think the new Honda CB500F will have enough power to justify me getting a standard bike?
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Nov 19, 2012 04:29
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HD's have been plenty reliable for decades now. Their reputation has been stained from the 70's when they were owned by a bowling company. If you like their looks, sounds, and are OK with their performance the only legit reason that should keep you from buying one is that they cost an arm and a leg for what you get. Lots of people are OK paying the premium, and if you're one of them you should. That said if you're going for a Sportster as anything but a starter bike the Iron is the only option. If I were I would consider going bigger even, lots of Dynas out there don't look as big as they are. The new Cross Bones is the best looking bike they've put out in awhile in my option, but they've discontinued it.
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Nov 19, 2012 06:01
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McLarenF1 posted:So I've had a Honda Rebel 250 for 3.5 years because I pretty much haven't been able to afford a new bike. We'll I've got a fancy new job post grad school so I'm looking to upgrade. I can't decide if I should stick with a cruiser and get a HD Iron 883 (but I'm worried about reliability) or the new Honda CB500F (but I'm worried that it won't have enough power since they are still marketing it as a beginner bike). So my questions are, how reliable are Harleys and do you think the new Honda CB500F will have enough power to justify me getting a standard bike? The CB500F and the Harley will probably be relatively comparable in performance. The harley makes about 50hp, the CB is supposed to make about the same. But the Harley will be much heavier. If you're looking at standards, don't know why you wouldn't just buy an SV650 instead though. More power, same weight as the CB500, known good engine, good aftermarket, cheaper.
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Nov 19, 2012 06:17
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I just don't like the SV650 styling not to mention that for some reason the number of them available around the DC metro area isn't as high as others. Plus I can afford a new bike for once in my life, so I'd rather not get a used one. Thanks for the input guys. I guess I'll have to check out the CB500F at the motorcycle show in Jan and go test drive the Iron 883 whenever we get a decently warm day.
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Nov 19, 2012 07:15
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There are plenty of other options out there that will fit your styling needs. A Street Triple and a Gladius are both in the same ballpark of styling as the newer CB's. Triumph standards are also pretty.
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Nov 19, 2012 07:22
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Xovaan posted:Triumph standards are also pretty. And don't forget the Bonneville, which makes more power than either the Sporty or the CB500F, at around 67HP. (seriously, who is buying Sportster 883s when the Bonneville is all around a completely better bike in every subjective and objective way, for less money?)
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Nov 19, 2012 14:27
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He's right on that. http://www.cycleworld.com/2010/09/16/harley-davidson-iron-883-vs-honda-shadow-rs-vs-triumph-bonneville-comparison-test/ If you're looking new and not shopping Craigslist deals there's also this sexy new thing from Honda. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UGcVpsqQlBM
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Nov 19, 2012 14:37
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HotCanadianChick posted:And don't forget the Bonneville, which makes more power than either the Sporty or the CB500F, at around 67HP. Maybe it's because I live mere miles outside the hipster fortresses of Silverlake and Eagle Rock, but Bonnies and indeed Triumphs in general cannot be found used for anything resembling a reasonable price. 883s were bad too but at least there are enough around that you can talk the owner down in price. This one is what, $1000 more than it retailed for? At least it's well maintained with low miles and not "cafe" style or bobber style (Oh god why?  )I know Mclaren is looking at new bikes which is totally different, but I remember this pissing me off when I was looking at classic styled bikes in the Sportster pricerange (ended up with an 883R).
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Nov 19, 2012 17:01
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:Maybe it's because I live mere miles outside the hipster fortresses of Silverlake and Eagle Rock, but Bonnies and indeed Triumphs in general cannot be found used for anything resembling a reasonable price. 883s were bad too but at least there are enough around that you can talk the owner down in price. This one is what, $1000 more than it retailed for? At least it's well maintained with low miles and not "cafe" style or bobber style (Oh god why? That cafe isn't too bad but the bobber, Jesus Christ. What a waste of a good bonneville.
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Nov 19, 2012 19:30
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quote:The bike is an easy head turner. I'm frequently stopped and people comment on it. Well, it's not an old Triumph where this would be normal, so I'm gonna go with "yuppie", Jim.
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Nov 19, 2012 20:58
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Dumb question. What is the stock tire pressure for a Bandit 1200 with PR3's? Everyone's-a tellin' me a different number and I don't know who to believe. 
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Nov 20, 2012 10:40
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Stock pressure on a Bandit 600 is 33/36 psi front/rear. Dunno if the 1200 is any different, though.
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Nov 20, 2012 11:23
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That's hard to answer because PR3s aren't the stock tire. I usually do 2-5lbs under the tire's max rated pressure.
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Nov 20, 2012 16:20
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Xovaan posted:Dumb question. What is the stock tire pressure for a Bandit 1200 with PR3's? Everyone's-a tellin' me a different number and I don't know who to believe. I'd run 38/40 or so for commute use.
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Nov 20, 2012 17:26
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Z3n posted:Twisto, should only be an hour of shop labor plus the cost of the rebuild kit. Pretty much spot-on, although they only charged me 45 minutes and for fresh fluid through the system. Turns out it was the slave cylinder rather than the master, which on reflection makes more sense given the problems I was seeing (and as you also predicted). Still, I'm well happy with getting away with a £50 bill for what could have been a much nastier problem. Any east London goons, I can heartily recommend Pole Position for all your needs (they also did a really cheap caliper rebuild for me when they were putting on new tyres and brake pads for me earlier in the year).
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Nov 20, 2012 17:31
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Xovaan posted:There are plenty of other options out there that will fit your styling needs. A Street Triple and a Gladius are both in the same ballpark of styling as the newer CB's. Triumph standards are also pretty. Yeah, I wouldn't ever recommend a street triple to someone coming off a small cruiser. CB500f is probably a great bike, I'd go for that over the Harley any day.
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Nov 20, 2012 18:12
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I dunno. Bikes only go as fast as you twist the throttle. I started on an SV650 and moved onto my Bandit pretty early on with almost no issues at all. Really a Street Triple won't be that much different if you learned proper instrument control on a smaller cc bike. I felt my SV650 would have been perfect had it been a tad bit faster (SV800 please? ...please?) and anything less than that would just be anemic aside from the giggle-fun-factor of a 75cc race prepped scooter or a "beginner" bike like a Ninja 250 or a GS500. A Speed Triple's ~100 horsepower is gonna be just as fast 0-60 as an SV or a CB500 to an amateur rider. All the bike are pretty comparable, but you have a lot more options for riding style/avoiding bad situations with more horsepower, at least from what I've seen. For example: Today I had two people merge into me mid-corner in traffic and my only option was pancaking the bike and hammering the throttle to avoid them. I'm a very conservative and safe rider, but power is one of those things I would rather have and not need than need and not have. If you ride a cruiser, you're already in a state of non-dong rider mindset, so bigger bikes shouldn't be an issue. That said, anyone wanna trade a KTM 690 SMC for a Bandit? 
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Nov 20, 2012 19:19
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Xovaan posted:That said, anyone wanna trade a KTM 690 SMC for a Bandit? Just ship your Bandit over to the east coast, I will take reaaal good care of it.
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Nov 20, 2012 21:48
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Xovaan posted:A Speed Triple's ~100 horsepower is gonna be just as fast 0-60 as an SV or a CB500 to an amateur rider. All the bike are pretty comparable, but you have a lot more options for riding style/avoiding bad situations with more horsepower, at least from what I've seen. For example: Today I had two people merge into me mid-corner in traffic and my only option was pancaking the bike and hammering the throttle to avoid them. I'm a very conservative and safe rider, but power is one of those things I would rather have and not need than need and not have. If you ride a cruiser, you're already in a state of non-dong rider mindset, so bigger bikes shouldn't be an issue. This probably all goes in the 'what kind of bike should I get' thread, but The reason you don't recommend a more powerful bike like an St3 to 'an amateur rider' is that if they panic or slip or something and whack that throttle open, that power can come up in a hurry. The SV's power delivery tapers off much more on the high end so it doesn't bite your rear end so hard if you get that inadvertent full throttle. If I was looking at a cruiser at all I'd look at a midsize metric. A Harley 883 just runs out of steam quick and if you're doing any distance / two-up riding you'll probably want more power. Yes, people do it, people also do it on 250s and don't know what they're missing. For the Sportster you can move up to the 1200 (it's a lot less gutsy than it sounds) or go metric. This time of year the metric dealers have stock that you can basically name your price on, so save a bundle that you can spend on customizing it into your own. I'd look in the 800-950 range for viable distance/2-up capability without getting too massive and heavy.
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Nov 20, 2012 22:42
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McLarenF1 posted:I can't decide if I should stick with a cruiser and get a HD Iron 883 (but I'm worried about reliability) or the new Honda CB500F (but I'm worried that it won't have enough power since they are still marketing it as a beginner bike). So my questions are, how reliable are Harleys and do you think the new Honda CB500F will have enough power to justify me getting a standard bike? You'd need to be the judge of it, but unless you've been asleep at the controls for the past 3.5 years, I suspect you can handle more bike than a wheezy little beginner 500. For about half the price of a CB500F you could do a CB900F (or Hornet 919) - hell even the CB600F (Hornet 599) would be a way bigger kick in the pants than the new 500. Cruiser-wise, unless you're still learning how to hold the bike up at stoplights I don't see much of a reason to go small. If you like the sporty, at least try out a 1200. The 1200 and the 883 weigh virtually the same and the power difference is almost negligible; 1200 pretty much means more torque.
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Nov 20, 2012 23:11
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Pretty much spot-on, although they only charged me 45 minutes and for fresh fluid through the system. Turns out it was the slave cylinder rather than the master, which on reflection makes more sense given the problems I was seeing (and as you also predicted). Always nice to find a good shop. I'll throw out a recommendation here for bay area goons for ACS down in San Jose...they're the only shop I'd consider taking my bikes to if I needed some work done and couldn't do it myself.
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Nov 20, 2012 23:21
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I've got a little Honda CBR125, 2007 model. Took a low speed spill on it and it landed on its right side a few weeks back, fixed the indicators, mirrors, clutch and gearshift (some dipshit decided to knock it over on is left not long after I'd fixed the right side), but it won't start unless it's in neutral (not really a dealbreaker, it's quite cold where I live so I need to rev + choke it anyway in the mornings). Any suggstions? Also, since the spill, the handlebars shake under anything more than very light front braking. I'm going to try tightening the three bolts that link the handlebars to the wheel, but the only other thing I can think of is on the left fork there's a couple of rivulets of rust, almost like it leaked or something. Haven't noticed it before, and there's nothing on the right fork. Any suggestions?
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Nov 21, 2012 04:50
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Wootcannon posted:I've got a little Honda CBR125, 2007 model. Took a low speed spill on it and it landed on its right side a few weeks back, fixed the indicators, mirrors, clutch and gearshift (some dipshit decided to knock it over on is left not long after I'd fixed the right side), but it won't start unless it's in neutral (not really a dealbreaker, it's quite cold where I live so I need to rev + choke it anyway in the mornings). Any suggstions? Probably lost the clutch safety switch or the kickstand switch on #1. #2, you need to loosen the front end up and let things spring straight again. Dave moss explains it here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IFV7ZJrORWw
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Nov 21, 2012 04:55
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Z3n posted:Probably lost the clutch safety switch or the kickstand switch on #1. Its the clutch switch, if it was the kickstand switch it wouldn't run in gear at all. The braking vibes could be twisted forks like z3n said, that or a bent brake rotor or else you've blown a forkseal.
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Nov 21, 2012 06:12
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echomadman posted:Its the clutch switch, if it was the kickstand switch it wouldn't run in gear at all. I'm clearly going to be spending this week with my face buried in a Haynes, aren't I. On that note, any other good resources for repairing bikes for plonkers/squiddy-as-all-get-out morons like myself?
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Nov 21, 2012 06:51
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Workshop manuals are pretty easy to follow.
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Nov 21, 2012 06:55
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Wootcannon posted:I'm clearly going to be spending this week with my face buried in a Haynes, aren't I. On that note, any other good resources for repairing bikes for plonkers/squiddy-as-all-get-out morons like myself? Google and model-specific message boards
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Nov 21, 2012 06:59
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Wootcannon posted:I'm clearly going to be spending this week with my face buried in a Haynes, aren't I. On that note, any other good resources for repairing bikes for plonkers/squiddy-as-all-get-out morons like myself? do the simplest things first, make sure the bars are straight in the triples. the clutch switch could be broken in a few ways, either the wires to it have been pulled or the clutch lever isnt actuating the switch. have a look under the clutch for 2 wires leading to a microswitch. if its a broken/disconnected wire just reconnect it, if its the switch consult the haynes manual for specific troubleshooting info. Check the brake disk by getting the front wheel off the ground a bit (get someone to heel it over on the kickstand and hold it up) put a screwdriver against the fork leg with the head close to, but not touching the brake disk and spin the wheel. watch the gap between the disk and the screwdriver tip, if it changes then the rotor is bent. To check the forkseals clean the stanchions so they're dry then bounce the front end hard a few times and check for rings of fluid or grime on the stanchions.
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Nov 21, 2012 07:01
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Cheers much, will give a more detailed reply later when I've had a better look at it, am pretty sure the clutch switch is fine, if that's the one at the clutch lever, popped those two wires in myself and triple-checked them. e: echomadman posted:do the simplest things first, make sure the bars are straight in the triples.
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Nov 21, 2012 07:13
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So this is kind of a continuation of something from "Tell me what bike to buy". I was looking at the first picture on http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/mcy/3403323929.html and it seems that the brake rod for the rear drum is funky... and sticking out weirdly. Looking online (not really familiar with drum brakes) I'm pretty sure the little lever linking the rod to the actual brake assembly should be on the bottom, which may explain why the rod is sticking out too far. Any thoughts on my analysis? I don't want to clutter up that thread with braketalk.
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Nov 21, 2012 07:22
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Wootcannon posted:
Which 3 bolts? What he is talking about Is the bolts that clamp the forks down in in the triple trees on each side. With the front tire still in the air from checking your disk brake, loosen the bolts holding the fork tubes. Most bikes just have one bolt securing the bottom clamp on each side, and then one or two on the top. You just need to loosen them a bit, not so much you can slide the forks out. Stand over the front tire, gripping it with your thighs, then grab the handle bars and give them a slight twist to the left& right (like you are turning but holding the front tire straight). Then straighten the bars so they are pointing straight when the tire is and tighten everything back up. This is a pretty common fix to have to do after you drop one and then the bars don't point straight anymore (I've never had it cause shuddering but it's worth a shot). Pham Nuwen posted:So this is kind of a continuation of something from "Tell me what bike to buy". I was looking at the first picture on http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/mcy/3403323929.html and it seems that the brake rod for the rear drum is funky... and sticking out weirdly. Looking online (not really familiar with drum brakes) I'm pretty sure the little lever linking the rod to the actual brake assembly should be on the bottom, which may explain why the rod is sticking out too far. Any thoughts on my analysis? I don't want to clutter up that thread with braketalk. That actuating arm can point either direction and it works the same. Some bikes have it pointing up, some down. The only thing that matters is there is clearance for the rod to pull it without binding or hitting something. I'm not familiar with your particular market but I would try to get that bike for about half what he's asking. obso fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Nov 21, 2012 |
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Nov 21, 2012 17:08
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obso posted:Does this sound like a wrist pin tick? Well just an update. Whatever is making that tick is coming from the bottom end. So I'm guessing it's the rod bearing. Any idea how big of a job this is on a yamaha thumper? (not like their air-cooled design has changed any in the last 30 years) I've done plenty of top end rebuilds but never had to split the case on one. And also what is the likelihood of this failing catastrophically? My roommate is having to ride it to work for the next couple weeks (a whole ~5min ride) while her truck is getting repaired. Right now I'm just trying to listen for it to get louder until I get the time to tear it down.
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Nov 21, 2012 17:24
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I noticed a couple things cleaning up my bike and they made me have questions. First thing is I noticed that my seat cover is starting to tear and wear away at the corner. What can I do to fix this up before it gets worse? Stitch in time saves nine etc.  Second is my front brake lever has started to feel a little loose (assuming it's not in my head), but not at the joint where the lever is bolted into the bars, at the joint where the adjuster is. See pic:  Problem is, that's a rivet, obviously. Is there anything I can do about that? edit; whoops big images
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Nov 21, 2012 22:13
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nsaP posted:I noticed a couple things cleaning up my bike and they made me have questions. What size rivet? If it's 3/8, drill it out an replace with a new pop rivet. If it's a non-standard size . . .
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Nov 21, 2012 22:21
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nsaP posted:I noticed a couple things cleaning up my bike and they made me have questions. I would wait until you're sick of it and get a replacement from Renazco or what have you.
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Nov 21, 2012 22:37
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Can you explain what you mean by the "joint where the adjuster is"? What joint are you referring to? The adjuster should just regulate how far away from the bars the lever is. Do you mean that open circle portion between the dial wheel and the mounting pivot point is another joint? If so, just go buy a chinese knockoff lever for 20 bucks or Pazzors, CRG, etc if you wanna get spendy.. Don't try to go crazy riveting the lever or something. That seems like more work than it's worth.
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Nov 21, 2012 22:43
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Yeah, I mean that riveted joint closest to the adjuster, not the screw bolt joint closer to the bars. Here's a terrible gif of the play because I am bad at pictures and the sun was setting behind the bike. Not huge, but more than it used to have. Enough wobble that I noticed. I have no rivets or gun so that's no problem, I was thinking more drilling and bolting that joint, but I figured if they used a rivet on it maybe there was a reason. RE: the seat, waiting till it gets lovely then buying a new one is an option, but is there nothing I can do for a patch?
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Nov 21, 2012 23:06
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