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ReelBigLizard posted:I have a bottle of Nikwax rain-repellant which appears to be the same thing as Rain-X, seems to work pretty great. However, I find that when it's not raining any rain-repellent product usually turns out to also be dust-attractive. These days I just use rain gloves with a handy visor wiper on the finger. Shimrod posted:I use Rain-X, it's awesome. Thanks fellas! It sort of turns out that I was over thinking this. Just got back from riding around out there to see how my visor worked under moderate rain, and like you both say, either wiping with the glove or looking off to the side got the wind to blow a lot of it off whenever it got too much. I guess I convinced myself a product was required before I even tried. Our great WA state roads are being drenched and it's thrown me into my car for work. Yet every time I go out there, I'm seeing someone on a bike roughing it. I've done wet riding locally so it's not something I'm unfamiliar with, but I suppose there's some part of my brain that's saying "riding a bike is risky enough, do you really want to deal with it when it's slippery?" Man, my car eats so much gas..
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Jan 30, 2013 14:22
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Well, as one of those guys out there riding in the rain that you see (not that where I live where you do) I can say that it's still more fun for me to ride in the rain than it is to drive a car. I actually enjoy it at times more than in the dry, you have to focus and do everything perfectly otherwise you're going to faceplant. I actually sold my car and have no regrets.
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Jan 30, 2013 14:57
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In the middle-weight category (400-800cc), how would the CA hivemind rank Yamaha/Honda/Suzuki/Kawasaki these days?
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Jan 30, 2013 15:16
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Rain repellents are best suited for Urban riding IMO. At speeds above ~45mph the wind will clear all but the heaviest blatter from a plain visor. In a built up, busy area where taking your hand off the bars every minute or so would be an unwelcome distraction/risk, it's nice to have a repellent to clear your visor. I'm also a bike-only guy. I just can't justify two vehicles, so I chose to make do with the bike (and have fun) rather than waste the car and struggle with traffic/parking.
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Jan 30, 2013 15:29
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epalm posted:In the middle-weight category (400-800cc), how would the CA hivemind rank Yamaha/Honda/Suzuki/Kawasaki these days? Rank...what? Their cruisers, their standards, their sportbikes?
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Jan 30, 2013 16:39
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Z3n posted:Rank...what? Their cruisers, their standards, their sportbikes? I was aiming at standards, but why not all three, if there is significant variance. Edit: To clarify, what I'm really asking about is overall build quality. I should have stated this earlier. I'm wondering if all 4 manufacturers are pretty much neck and neck, or if these days one or two are pulling away from the others. epswing fucked around with this message at 16:43 on Jan 30, 2013 |
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Jan 30, 2013 16:40
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Z3n posted:Rank...what? Their cruisers, their standards, their sportbikes? Not my cruisers, standards or sportbikes. Edit: to add something useful. None of the big 5 make bad bikes these days. Honda, Yamaha, Kawasaki, Suzuki, Harley Davidson... They all make great products now.
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Jan 30, 2013 16:43
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I've seen some interesting solutions posted before - how would I go about lifting the front in the air to work on it, without a centre stand?
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Jan 30, 2013 16:49
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What bike? If it's a more modern bike you can use a triple tree attachment to a front stand. If not you can get creative with some ratchet straps and a ladder / roof rafters. EDIT - Wait, work on what? For the front suspension you'll have to do the above. For just general maintenance stuff ie not taking off the forks or anything you can just buy a fork stand.
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Jan 30, 2013 16:51
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Build quality is pretty consistent between the big 4 these days. I'd say you get more variation between bikes and owners then you do bike makers. Wootcannon posted:I've seen some interesting solutions posted before - how would I go about lifting the front in the air to work on it, without a centre stand? Jack under the collector at the headers with the bike on the sidestand.
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Jan 30, 2013 16:52
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Working on the forks to try and fix the vibration (I lazily didn't do this even though the solution was given to me back at page 450-something of this thread.) Money's quite tight at the moment, so I'd rather not buy a separate part.Z3n posted:Jack under the collector at the headers with the bike on the sidestand. And the collector at the headers would be the....? I'm not finding it at all on google or the Haynes. e: This is what being brought up by a programmer father does to your children. Wootcannon fucked around with this message at 16:59 on Jan 30, 2013 |
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Jan 30, 2013 16:57
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He means just put a block of wood on a jack and jack the bike up under the headers essentially. Make sure you stabilize the bike somehow if you use this method.
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Jan 30, 2013 17:23
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Yup. Just make sure you're at a place on the headers where you're not putting all of the weight on one individual header.
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Jan 30, 2013 17:31
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If you don't have a jack, you can also use a squeeze-grip clamp from the hardware shop to do the same thing (they flip to become a spreader). A steel spined one can easily hold up one end of a bike, I've even done it on a HD Sporty: http://www.caulfieldindustrial.com/irwin-quickgrip--bar-clamps/p-122892pd.html
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Jan 30, 2013 17:45
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:I've got one of those "get a farmer, chicken, fox, and bag of grain across the river in a boat" kind of puzzle going on If you have everything you need to do the tank swap, including a petcock on the new tank, then you should be able to transfer the fuel from old tank to new without a gas can. Otherwise, use a gas can to "escrow" the fuel between the tanks. Once you have the old tank empty, you'll need to deal with the last bit of fuel that sloshes around the bottom. If you have an oil change tub (long flat plastic from AutoZone) you can shake out more fuel into that. Then put that gas into the new tank through some filter. Anyway, you should get to a point where the old tank is virtually empty but not quite bone dry, so it's flammable, dangerous, etc. Remove the petcock and cap. Flush a bunch of water through it (outside hose, utility sink?). If you cannot do that move to the next step of airing out the empty tank. Without a garage, it may be tricky to air out the tank, but do as much airing as possible outside. You might be OK bringing it in to air out for a day or so. Stick it in the bathroom with the exhaust fan running, window open, etc. If you can, try to hang it over the tub/shower with a coat hanger so any drips fall into the drain (a few drips of petrol won't be enough to poison the sewer), and you get a good airflow. If you run the exhaust fan and keep the bathroom door closed, I don't think it will stink up the place, cause you to pass out etc. Once the thing has aired out for a couple days, it's just a hunk of metal. Pitch it in the bin.
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Jan 30, 2013 18:04
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Ah, I can see how my wording's caused confusion. Okay, when I said "at the collector under the headers would be...?" I should point out I was asking what the header or collector were in plain English. Google's implying it's just the manifold leading to the exhaust pipe but I'd rather not ruin the bike on a "looks like it".
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Jan 30, 2013 20:11
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So the headers are the pipes that come from the engine head and go to the muffler. The collector is the part of the exhaust where the multiple pipes from the engine head go into one larger exhaust pipe that leads to the muffler, typically.
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Jan 30, 2013 20:27
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I am in the process of switching out the sprockets on the 2004 FZ6 I picked up in the Fall. It looks like one of the previous owners over-torqued the nuts on the rear sprocket. I was able to get all but one off. It's a lock nut that just spins around bolt. I can't seem get anything underneath it to lift it up in the hopes of catching some threads. What are my best options at this point?
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Jan 31, 2013 00:53
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Angle grinder.
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Jan 31, 2013 00:57
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How difficult is it to rebuild a brake master cylinder? I have reason to believe my rear master cylinder is done so I'd like to fix it up. I have an 04 SV650 and I'm having some trouble finding the correct kit online. It appears most of them are generic so it shouldn't really matter which one I get? How do I tell a good rebuild kit from a bad one? Halp. e: I should say I'm happy to follow one of the many howto guides I can find online, my main issue is finding the appropriate rebuild kit to get. bsamu fucked around with this message at 02:20 on Jan 31, 2013 |
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Jan 31, 2013 02:02
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Is that the two-stroke or the four-stroke? Either way it, er, it probably shouldn't be doing that. Have you recently serviced it? It's the two. Pretty sure I messed something up while getting the clutch-side cover unglued from its gasket (a rubber mallet got involved).
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Jan 31, 2013 05:45
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RE: Lift up the front - put it on center stand, put a jerry can/large brick/whatever on the back to weigh it down. Or use an engine crane if you have one handy. (Or one of the other methods posted here).
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Jan 31, 2013 10:27
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I've only got a wee kickstand, sadly!
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Jan 31, 2013 11:33
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Eh, just put it on a crate or something. If you're worried about the exhaust or anything just take it off. I don't know how the one on your bike goes but I discovered the one on one of my bikes take a grand total of 5 minutes to take off and put back on.
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Jan 31, 2013 12:10
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I should be fine, I've got a kickstand, a car jack and some wood for the fire to rest it on, should the weather ever calm down. It's one of those things (checking the rotor and forks) I figure I'm better learning myself.
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Jan 31, 2013 12:39
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bsamu posted:How difficult is it to rebuild a brake master cylinder? I have reason to believe my rear master cylinder is done so I'd like to fix it up. I have an 04 SV650 and I'm having some trouble finding the correct kit online. It appears most of them are generic so it shouldn't really matter which one I get? How do I tell a good rebuild kit from a bad one? Halp. MC rebuilds are not too tough, the PITA is bleeding and filling the brake lines. If your MC is particularly tricky to rebuild or you cannot find parts, look for a replacement MC on ebay. Still have bleed, etc., but MCs are pretty cheap IME.
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Jan 31, 2013 17:17
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So there, down payment made. Now I just have to wait for the snow to go away so I can sell off my other three bikes.  Z3n posted:Oh poo poo is that the model with the true 690cc engine? Oh yeah. Probably wont feel too much difference from the DRZ though, right?  Spiffness posted:Wonderful. I can't wait till it comes state side so I can do the same. Post everything. Thanks, I'll make sure to fashion my license plate really securely.
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Jan 31, 2013 22:14
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Nidhg00670000 posted:So there, down payment made. Now I just have to wait for the snow to go away so I can sell off my other three bikes. Rhinestones or sparkly glitter paint?
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Jan 31, 2013 22:25
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With regards to propping up my 125, the exhaust runs directly under the main engine bit, the headers appear to be up top (my bike's the same, obviously. I've removed the bottom fairing, any suggestions, I was thinking of running a plank between the bottom engine bit and the exhaust pipe, and lifting it up on a jack that way.  edit: Crap, the gap between the exhaust and the engine, as well as the position of the clutch cable, means I can only run one piddly plank through the middle.
Wootcannon fucked around with this message at 13:32 on Feb 1, 2013 |
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Feb 1, 2013 13:22
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If there's no good flat spots on the bottom, try suspending it from an A-frame ladder with some ratchet or pull straps. Just use the grips or top triples or whatever's convenient. Should be easy with a bike that light.
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Feb 1, 2013 13:52
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Wootcannon posted:With regards to propping up my 125, the exhaust runs directly under the main engine bit, the headers appear to be up top (my bike's the same, obviously. I've removed the bottom fairing, any suggestions, I was thinking of running a plank between the bottom engine bit and the exhaust pipe, and lifting it up on a jack that way. You're over thinking this. If you're fairing-less just jack it up on the bottom right hand side of the engine, you only need a small piece of wood to stop it scuffing the casings. You don't even need a jack to do it, a piece of two-by-four/pipe/prosthetic leg/ming vase of the right length will do the job. Go to the side stand side of the bike, pull the bike towards you so the front wheel comes off the ground, like this guy does, but lifting the front off the ground: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWWnf0niufk Get a second person to wedge your chosen 18-inch dildo/acetylene bottle/breeze block under the right-hand side of the engine, thus making a tripod with the side stand and rear wheel while your front wheel is lifted off the ground. Done. EDIT: I had to go home at lunch anyway: Take your suitably sized thingymagig, in my case this is a piece of scrap aluminium pipe that does double duty as a leverage bar in my tool box, it's got an old bit of innertube wrapped around the end dso it doesn't scratch poo poo up:  1)Lift front of biek 2)Wedge thing under biek: 
ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 14:49 on Feb 1, 2013 |
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Feb 1, 2013 13:56
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Well I've got the jack, so I can just pump it up that side. Cheers for reassuring me, I was worried I'd somehow crack the casing.
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Feb 1, 2013 14:48
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What is a reasonable torque setting for the nuts on a rear sprocket on a 2004 FZ6? The manual has 100nm (73 ft lbs) listed, but I've seen a number of websites say this is a horrible misprint, which seems likely for a 14mm nut on a 10mm bolt. However, the suggestions for correct torque range from 25 to 65 ft lbs. Any suggestions?
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Feb 2, 2013 05:26
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In my owners manual the torque spec for M10's ranges from 40-60Nm. I'd go with 50Nm.
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Feb 2, 2013 05:31
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Zool posted:In my owners manual the torque spec for M10's ranges from 40-60Nm. I'd go with 50Nm. Yeah, that seems about right to me.
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Feb 2, 2013 06:25
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Anyone know where I can get a Bell Star Hess in XS at a non-retard price? Can't find one anywhere. A local shop has my second graphics choice for the Star but wants $700 for it, wtf.
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Feb 2, 2013 09:33
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So last night I was fooling around with the CM400T. Had it up on the centerstand so I gave the rear wheel a spin. Then I noticed that once per revolution I heard a rubbing noise and the wheel slowed down. Is this just an effect of drum brakes, like the gentle whispering sound you get from disk brakes? Or is something hosed and I need to start digging?
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Feb 2, 2013 17:58
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Means that your drum is slightly out of round. You could probably take it somewhere to get re-trued ($$$$) or you could adjust the rear brake setpoint a turn or two so that it doesn't bind at all, and just have a little more play in the pedal from now on. I did the latter on mine and haven't had any problems -- drum brakes are always going to be a little funkier than discs, and as the rear it's not your primary brake anyway.
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Feb 2, 2013 18:09
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Does anyone here have one of the Harbor Freight foldable trailers? http://www.harborfreight.com/950-lb-capacity-foldable-4-ft-x-8-ft-utility-trailer-with-8-inch-wheels-and-tires-42709.html They're pretty popular on ADVrider and a few other places as motorcycle trailers with the addition of a wheel chock. I need a way of getting my Ducati from Ohio to North Carolina a few times and they seem to be the way to go.
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Feb 2, 2013 22:56
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No, but I've been eyeing one.
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