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Slavvy posted:It also has a neptune can which sounds OK I guess. From what I've read on the net, normally they have a catalytic converter hidden inside the can so obviously this will flow a fair bit better. How can I determine if the bike has been re-jetted for the new can? I've never ridden another ZRX and so I'm wondering if it's possible to tell by examining the carbs somehow? If it had a new can and wasn't jetted to accommodate a significant difference in airflow or back-pressure the bike would be running like poo poo. If it's running strong and even through the range then it was re-jetted or didn't need to be re-jetted. Looking at the carbs could tell you it was jetted accordingly, but the above is all that is really necessary. To get any useful info out of the carbs you'd need to know the stock needle size and position, and be able to tell the difference from whatever you find inside the carbs as they are right now. Carbs 101: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y836ZPjvoMI Also, grats on your new hugely superior EFI bike?
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Apr 22, 2013 14:22
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Slavvy posted:I have a question. I Bought this a couple of days ago: quote:It also has a neptune can which sounds OK I guess. From what I've read on the net, normally they have a catalytic converter hidden inside the can so obviously this will flow a fair bit better. How can I determine if the bike has been re-jetted for the new can? I've never ridden another ZRX and so I'm wondering if it's possible to tell by examining the carbs somehow?
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Apr 22, 2013 14:29
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Slavvy posted:I've always been taught to sit far back in the seat so my legs can clamp the sides of the tank more effectively. I feel much more in control of the bike when I do this, but I don't know if that's because it's a better seating position or if I've just gotten used to riding that way. If you're talking about for 'rayeling' or perhaps 'hooning' you want to sit with your junk right up against the tank so you're not sliding around (in general). Sit wherever the hell you want for comfort. You could tell if the carb has been modified if you tore into it. Generally speaking jet kits have different needles that have different markings. Re-jetting would just have different jets than the stock settings. If the bike is running well and not bogging/popping/etc there is absolutely no reason to tear into the carbs just to find out what the jetting is.
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Apr 22, 2013 14:50
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Balls against the tank all day errday. That is the position that lets you grip the tank the best with your legs, since you have the most surface area of your legs actually on the tank. It also puts you more in the center of the bike, so you're forcing less of your body weight to move off-axis when you turn, which is good. Sitting back is for two things: comfort (completely legit reason to do it), and wheelies (also legit).
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Apr 22, 2013 15:04
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Slavvy posted:I've always been taught to sit far back in the seat so my legs can clamp the sides of the tank more effectively. I feel much more in control of the bike when I do this, but I don't know if that's because it's a better seating position or if I've just gotten used to riding that way. Yes, you can check the carbs to see if they've been rejetted. The simplest thing to do is pull a slide and see if it's a stock one, or an adjustable one. otherwise you can pull the rack, and check the jet sizes in the float bowl.
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Apr 22, 2013 15:42
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Heated grips decided not to work this morning. Won't have a chance to take a look at it for a couple of days, but I think it might be the rocker or the wires. I replaced the rocker about a month ago because one of the connections corroded and the high setting wouldn't work. The replacement was a cheap piece of crap from Hong Kong. Where can a find a good rocker H-OFF-L that isn't $75 from Radio Shack and will actually last in the rain? I tried looking on places like Bike Bandit, but I can't find any outside of the grip heater kits.
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Apr 22, 2013 16:33
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If it's similar to this http://www.amazon.com/Tusk-Grip-Heater-Kit/dp/B0033YTV78 I am pretty sure it's just a SPCO ON-OFF-ON switch with a resistor inline with one of the ON wires and a different label. That might open up some search options. FWIW, this is the setup that came on my western-Washington bike, and it's held together well.
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Apr 22, 2013 17:45
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Crosspostin' this from the scooter megathread, wanna see if you non-scooterists can help - I'm having a bit of a problem with my '08 Stella: it stutters, mostly at partial throttle. When cold, it will start easily (with choke) and settle into a (too low) idle. It will ride smoothly for a few minutes or miles, and then will start to stutter under load at, say, 1/4 throttle - like holding 35-40mph with traffic in 4th. The sputter is inconsistent (i.e. clearly not every X rotations). At first I thought it had to do with riding in heavy rain, as the first two times this happened (once a couple months ago, the other Saturday night) it was very wet out. So I thought maybe it was sucking in enough water to make it stutter but not enough to make it lock up. I don't have bellows installed - which for the unfamiliar redirects the intake to the top of the frame under the seat as opposed to under the engine cowl - thus the thought about rain. Perhaps related: weeks ago I was having a problem where if I revved it out in gear, it would stutter *hard* - more than just an annoyance like what I described above, but actually kinda kick back a bit. A new (hotter, B6ES, because it's what I had) spark plug solved this. The plug I took out, a B7ES, looked like it had been rich but not horribly so. I also quickly cleaned the air filter, idle jet, and main jet stack at this time. Nothing on the setup has changed. Sito+ exhaust, Piaggio air filter. Jetting is a 55/160 idle, BE3 mixer, 160 AC, and 104 main, as it has been since I installed the Sito+ and filter. For the unawares: this is a 150cc reed-inducted 2-stroke with an Spaco/Dell'orto Si 20/20 carb, stock except for the aforementioned exhaust/intake/rejetting, which has been good for years. My buddy - who knows his stuff, but can sometimes think the worst and deals more with old scooters - just thinks I need to clean the carb. While that doesn't seem crazy, this bike is only a few years old, and has never really sat long enough to varnish (though I do leave the petcock on 99% of the time, but this would be the first time that's been a problem). Anything basic I should check before I go rebuilding the carb on a 5 year old bike? When I get some time I'll be checking the plug and, depending on how that reads, maybe trying to either lean out the idle mix or just increase the idle.
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Apr 22, 2013 18:37
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clutchpuck posted:If it's similar to this http://www.amazon.com/Tusk-Grip-Heater-Kit/dp/B0033YTV78 I am pretty sure it's just a SPCO ON-OFF-ON switch with a resistor inline with one of the ON wires and a different label. That might open up some search options. FWIW, this is the setup that came on my western-Washington bike, and it's held together well. Goddamn, how did I not find this in my searches? This is the exact part linked off of yours: http://www.amazon.com/Symtec-300005-Replacement-Hi-Low-Snowmobile/dp/B003AU5KPW/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_img_z I have Moose Racing heaters and contacted them asking where to get a new rocker. They're going to mail me a new one even though I've had the grips for a couple years. Problem solved, I guess! 
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Apr 22, 2013 19:21
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Halo_4am posted:If it had a new can and wasn't jetted to accommodate a significant difference in airflow or back-pressure the bike would be running like poo poo. If it's running strong and even through the range then it was re-jetted or didn't need to be re-jetted. Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Swingarm looks similar to the old GPZ/ZX 900s from the 80s. I don't think that'll affect your handling much, unless it's shorter or longer than the stock one. Nerobro posted:Yes, you can check the carbs to see if they've been rejetted. The simplest thing to do is pull a slide and see if it's a stock one, or an adjustable one. otherwise you can pull the rack, and check the jet sizes in the float bowl. Cool, thanks. The bike runs superbly so I guess it must have been re-jetted, there are no flat spots or popping or rough running whatsoever. Halo_4am posted:Also, grats on your new hugely superior EFI bike? Let's not do this. I said if it were a good bike I'd overlook the carbs, and I did. Think of this as me giving carbs a chance!
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Apr 22, 2013 19:54
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If there's a little rust on the surface of the swingarm of my bike, should I give a poo poo? If I should give a poo poo, how I clean? Relatedly, some spots on my exhaust pipe have a little rust on them too. It's really very little rust. I've seen much worse in the bicycle world. Though on the swingarm, it looks like it's on top of the black paint that covers the whole swingarm, which is weird.
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Apr 22, 2013 21:44
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I don't know if you need to worry too much unless it starts to eat into important-looking welds or gets really bad. To fix it, I'd hit it with a stiff wire brush and some sandpaper. Then seal, prime, and paint over it.
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Apr 22, 2013 21:49
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It won't hurt anything if it's just surface rust. You can try using a scotchbrite pad with some kind of lubricant but it might take paint off if you're too rough. Make sure the seals / bushings are ok in the wheels such that they are greased and everything.
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Apr 22, 2013 21:50
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JP Money posted:It won't hurt anything if it's just surface rust. You can try using a scotchbrite pad with some kind of lubricant but it might take paint off if you're too rough. Make sure the seals / bushings are ok in the wheels such that they are greased and everything. That reminds me: I noticed that my rear axle lightly squeaking/squealing once per rotation when backing out of my garage this morning. It's only when going backwards, and I'd not have noticed it if the engine were on. Do I just WD-40 it or something?
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Apr 22, 2013 23:22
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Do you have rear disc brakes? It might just be a pad dragging or something. You should lube the rear axle though when you take it off for tire changes or whatever. I usually just clean mine off and reapply some grease to it. Don't use WD40, that's not a lubricant.
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Apr 22, 2013 23:28
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Axle grease or - preferably - anti-seize lubricant (it's silver-ish) is what you want to use for greasing the axle. The bearings are what turn though - the grease stuff you use is so the axle will come out cooperatively during service. Like JP, I'm thinking it might be the rear brake making noise. Mine does that and I still have pad on it so I'm not concerned.
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Apr 22, 2013 23:41
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Sorry, I should've specified that. ^^ Might wanna check your rear wheel alignment as well. If it's crooked (ie the marks are aligned differently on each side) it can skew your back wheel enough to wear down one side of the brakes faster than the other. Could also be a warped rotor but not many people get their rear brakes hot enough to do that I'd imagine. Or maybe it's enough that your pads hit in a weird way and make a noise.
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Apr 22, 2013 23:46
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I didn't think of if being the brakes. I'll try and pin down the noise. However I do know my chain is properly aligned.
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Apr 22, 2013 23:54
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What causes weird spotted heat bluing? Time to switch pads (CL XBK5)? The rotors aren't warped, I've never had them fade on me, but they are a little noisy. All of the rotor faces have this same spotted look.
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Apr 23, 2013 |
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Apr 23, 2013 02:04
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Heat. Those blue marks show you where things are hottest. It's completely ok.
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Apr 23, 2013 02:32
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Okay, I am used to bluing - I'd just never seen it speckled like that before. 
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Apr 23, 2013 02:37
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I recently acquired a 2009 Triumph Street Triple. I think I was just too giddy during the test ride and didn't notice a little bit of funkiness in its idle. Essentially, the tach wanders 1-300 RPM pretty continuously. It sounds more or less smooth, with the occasional slowing/speeding up. It has a pair of Zard Penta slip-ons, and the previous owner said the arrow map had been loaded onto it. The tach may or may not do this while moving--I think it does but I am having trouble watching it while riding and not dying--I've recorded the phenomenon here (the bike is fully warmed up, has just been ridden ~30 miles). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ATRwV-E3sIc The biggest fluctuation occurs in the first few seconds there--I have seen it worse but this is about average. Is this a. normal and I've just never noticed my other bikes doing it? b. a problem with the (possibly) recalled rectifier? c. an air/fuel issue? d. a crisis? I am planning on taking it in for service before too long, but the nearest triumph shop does not have a stellar reputation as a service center. Any pointers on this one?
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Apr 23, 2013 02:37
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Wanders less than my 675. Don't worry about it. Also, you want the TOR map with that exhaust - not the Arrow map. Arrow map is meant for a full exhaust so the TOR one might end up riding smoother. Check out TuneECU. If the RR was dying the gauges would vary in brightness... at least in my experience. vvv That. 
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 02:45 on Apr 23, 2013 |
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Apr 23, 2013 02:42
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I just watched a video of a normal bike idling.
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Apr 23, 2013 02:44
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On the subject of brake discs, what's going on with mine?  Rust or something even though I've been riding it? or something much worse?
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Apr 23, 2013 03:37
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That just looks like surface rust. It should be gone the next time you use your front brakes.
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Apr 23, 2013 03:40
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ohwandernearer posted:I recently acquired a 2009 Triumph Street Triple. I think I was just too giddy during the test ride and didn't notice a little bit of funkiness in its idle. The most likely case is that your throttle bodies are (barely) out of sync, it may be a little jumpier at very low speed / RPM but will smooth out the moment you open the throttle. My Speed idles rougher than that because my sync is cruddy. It's fine.
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Apr 23, 2013 03:51
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Your bike is fine just ride the damned thing.
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Apr 23, 2013 03:55
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That should probably be in parentheses in the thread title, thinking about it.
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Apr 23, 2013 05:14
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So there's an old Yamaha cruiser on campus that's been literally abandoned. I was talking to the parking officer and apparently has $300 in parking tickets and police are too lazy to tow it so it's been sitting for a few quarters. The owner called and said he isn't gonna come get it but I couldn't manage to get in contact with him via the officer for privacy reasons. The officer basically told me if I showed up with a truck and hauled it out I'd be doing everyone a favor. So some questions: 1. How do I get in contact with the owner of a vehicle in this situation? 2. If it's technically an abandoned vehicle, what are the laws with me hauling it away, with the permission of the officer, if I can't get in touch with the current owner? It would be cool to fix it up and give it a good home.
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Apr 23, 2013 08:26
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Check you local laws but in some places there are ways for you to claim a vehicle like that legally without the owner's help. With the owner is no sweat. Get that internet detective going.
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Apr 23, 2013 08:40
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Xovaan posted:So there's an old Yamaha cruiser on campus that's been literally abandoned. I was talking to the parking officer and apparently has $300 in parking tickets and police are too lazy to tow it so it's been sitting for a few quarters. The owner called and said he isn't gonna come get it but I couldn't manage to get in contact with him via the officer for privacy reasons. The officer basically told me if I showed up with a truck and hauled it out I'd be doing everyone a favor. Best answer is to 0) manage to have it magic in front of someplace you own. Then you immediately contact your local DMV about an abandoned vehicle that's been there for months. You then get a contact at the DMV, who contacts the owner in your proxy. You check with the DMV person every week or so until 1) the owner declares it abandoned or 2) your state's "this thing is abandoned after reported so" limit takes effect, and it's yours. I've done this in two states, and it's not worth it unless you really want The Thing Parked In Front of Your House. Note that step 0) is probably legally ambiguous in this case, but it sounds like nobody's really going to complain too much. Also, the Bandit is a big bike. Scrunch up on the tank when you're huddled behind the screen and grip the tank mightily. If lazed back cruising, then you've got an acre of seat to mosey around upon. It's a SPORT tourer.
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Apr 23, 2013 08:52
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Thanks guys! I'll delve into this a bit more and see if I can't net a semi-free 80's shaft driven cruiser. And as far as the Bandit goes, yeah, I am most comfortable with my balls firmly against 100 million calories' worth of gasoline. Because it's How We Do. I was just wondering if there was some magical position on the seat that improves my performance or something. 
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Apr 23, 2013 09:15
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Couldn't you just run a plate number check and get the dudes name from that, then hit up the phonebooks?
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Apr 23, 2013 09:31
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Collateral Damage posted:Most plastics fade with exposure to sunlight. You can sand it down to bring out an undamaged layer of plastic and them cover them in an UV protecting clearcoat, but for stock parts like switchblocks it's probably easier to replace them or just give them a lick of paint. n8r posted:I'd try some back to black. Jim Silly-Balls posted:This stuff works great for restoring color to plastic. I've had good luck with it, plus its UV resistant. Are you ready for plastic restoration love? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S59fh-6Saaw Kokkina Fegaria will show you how. Your plastics, they're gonna be like brand new.
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Apr 23, 2013 14:59
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Hey, do you tip a mechanic? It's my first time going to one, gotta get em tires changed (for 46 a rim  ).
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Apr 23, 2013 18:08
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I would assume the tip is included at $46/rim. Also, no, I don't tip my mechanic. I just pay him what he tells me to pay.
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Apr 23, 2013 18:12
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Where exactly do I attach a hooked cargo net to my Bandit? Do I put the hooks under the banana seat or... 
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Apr 23, 2013 18:16
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Shimrod posted:Couldn't you just run a plate number check and get the dudes name from that, then hit up the phonebooks? Thats not how license plates work
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Apr 23, 2013 18:16
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Xovaan posted:Where exactly do I attach a hooked cargo net to my Bandit? Do I put the hooks under the banana seat or... First or second gen?
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Apr 23, 2013 18:17
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