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The KTM 690 has a single cam, twin rocker, shim-in-valve-stem design. It's weird, but makes the head very compact while allowing easy shim swapping. Best of all worlds imo.
ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 00:30 on May 2, 2013 |
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May 2, 2013 00:28
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^ Okay, that is completely awesome, I had no idea what trickery was going on in the 690JP Money posted:I said "how many bikes do YOU work on..." not "how many bikes do dealers work on at $120 an hour..".  
MonkeyNutZ fucked around with this message at 00:36 on May 2, 2013 |
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May 2, 2013 00:33
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ReelBigLizard posted:The KTM 690 has a single cam, twin rocker, shim-in-valve-stem design. It's weird, but makes the head very compact while allowing easy shim swapping. Best of all worlds imo. Yum, roller cams. Seems like so much smarter an idea than the sliding kind.
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May 2, 2013 00:57
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ReelBigLizard posted:The KTM 690 has a single cam, twin rocker, shim-in-valve-stem design. It's weird, but makes the head very compact while allowing easy shim swapping. Best of all worlds imo. Are your roller bearings showing any signs of clicking/damage 
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May 2, 2013 01:00
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Z3n posted:I actually usually just zip tie the cam chain to each cam and leave one in the engine at a time, it's an easy way to minimize chances of them going out of time and it does a good job of keeping the cam chain from falling down the cam chain tunnel/skipping teeth. Use a piece of bailing wire or otherwise to hold the chain out of the case and keep it taut. Pretty awesome advice here. I did my first valve check / adjustment on my 2010 Ninja 250 on my own and the first time I reassembled the motor I had one too many links between the cams. Also, my word of advice: buy the service manual. It will answer / solve all of your issues. I used mine when I thought I had totally hosed up the timing on the bike with the 1 too many links on the cam chain.
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May 2, 2013 01:10
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ReelBigLizard posted:The KTM 690 has a single cam, twin rocker, shim-in-valve-stem design. It's weird, but makes the head very compact while allowing easy shim swapping. Best of all worlds imo. CX500 has nuts and tappets, and with the heads sticking outside the frame the way they do (flying-v) a valve job takes about 15 minutes.
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May 2, 2013 01:39
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ReelBigLizard posted:The KTM 690 has a single cam, twin rocker, shim-in-valve-stem design. It's weird, but makes the head very compact while allowing easy shim swapping. Best of all worlds imo. Isnt that basically what the Honda Unicam system is? I have never seen shim in stem before though.
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May 2, 2013 02:05
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Raven457 posted:Seriously, this. Don't have to remove cams to swap shims on my bike, and we didn't have to remove Nerobro's cams to swap his shims either. But whatevs.
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May 2, 2013 02:12
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Z3n posted:Doesn't work like that with shim under bucket valves, you need to use feeler gauges to check the clearances and then you have to pull the cams and buckets to get to the shims. Plastiguage wouldn't be used here, mainly because you'd have to torque down and loosen the cams each time to get an accurate reading and if it's out of the spec range on your plastiguage, you have to do it all over again. It's way easier to just use feelers. Ah, yeah, shim under is a pain. I'm only familiar with older Yamaha heads with shim over bucket.
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May 2, 2013 02:19
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Sagebrush posted:Yum, roller cams. Seems like so much smarter an idea than the sliding kind. Seems like it. But rollers have their own problems. As long as there's oil there, the "sliding" ones don't actually touch the tappets, or followers. Rollers are less durable, but cause less friction, but can follow more radical cam profiles. However due to being more delicate, you can't run them as fast. They also are taller, so require more room, and being taller, are heavier. Valvetrains are amazing bits of engineering. Even honda can get them wrong!
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May 2, 2013 03:12
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Nerobro posted:. Seriously, like, all the time. gently caress why do I keep buying Hondas? 
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May 2, 2013 04:17
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Z3n posted:Are your roller bearings showing any signs of clicking/damage I did replace one rocker when a roller was showing too much scoring, but it seems to be an 07-09 thing, and all the rockers since then seem hardier. That one isn't mine, but last time I looked, about 4k ago, they were in good shape. I've changed a couple of shims to get them more towards the mid-to-loose end of spec, but I've not actually found it out of spec once in 22k+ miles. Other than the cam chain tensioner, which only seems to be an issue for people who do a lot of short trips, KTM made a hell of an engine for the power/weight/intervals. SaNChEzZ posted:CX500 has nuts and tappets, and with the heads sticking outside the frame the way they do (flying-v) a valve job takes about 15 minutes. Now I've removed the giant airbox (pod filter) and a couple of the emissions hoses I reckon I could beat that for a valve check. Especially with one less cylinder. The 690 doesn't have anything above the engine except the airbox, The fuel tank doubles as the sub frame. My procedure to get from the bike standing untouched to sticking a feeler in is: Remove seat (spring catch) Remove Breather hose from valve cover (one springy hose clips. Remove the four valve cover bolts Pull off valve cover. To get TDC you just put the bike in 2nd and push it forward until a mark on the cam matches a mark on the head. To pop out a rocker you remove the two bolts that hold in the rocker's pinion and then, rather cleverly, thread one of those bolts into the end of the pinion and pull it out. Once you've done that, to remove a shim you just click a neodymium magnet on to it and pull it out. ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 20:57 on May 2, 2013 |
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May 2, 2013 20:42
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SaNChEzZ posted:CX500 has nuts and tappets, and with the heads sticking outside the frame the way they do (flying-v) a valve job takes about 15 minutes. That's pretty much the same story with the lady's BMW R. The bike is a joy to work on, in general. I'll laugh when she burns up all her clutch though.  
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May 2, 2013 21:53
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It never occurred to me that those have a dry clutch. That sucks  That looks like a huge pain in the rear end to replace them. I don't even know how often that would need replaced. I feel like bike clutches can get put in situations where you slip them much more than a car. How often is the replacement interval for a normal clutch on those?
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May 2, 2013 21:59
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clutchpuck posted:That's pretty much the same story with the lady's BMW R. The bike is a joy to work on, in general. I'll laugh when she burns up all her clutch though.  It's like how you have to take down the entire front end of a 3-series diesel to get to the injectors.
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May 2, 2013 22:09
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JP Money posted:It never occurred to me that those have a dry clutch. That sucks Hers has 52k mi and the clutch has never been touched, I gather that they tend to wear out somewhere north of 65k mi. You do slip it a little more than in a car I guess but I think the weight of the bike (or lack, I suppose) mitigates some expectation of wear.
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May 2, 2013 22:57
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Weren't the new R/GS bikes going to wet clutch?
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May 2, 2013 23:54
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clutchpuck posted:That's pretty much the same story with the lady's BMW R. The bike is a joy to work on, in general. I'll laugh when she burns up all her clutch though. Hooray again for my ancient and simplistic bike!  Of course, someone with a Ducati could sure put me in my place.
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May 2, 2013 23:57
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Sagebrush posted:Hooray again for my ancient and simplistic bike! I don't have an ancient and simplistic bike but it has an ancient and simplistic engine. Same boat: unbolt cover. e: Is it worth mentioning that the R motor isn't particularly advanced or complicated? Instead, it's "efficiently engineered". Phy posted:Weren't the new R/GS bikes going to wet clutch? Yeah it's pretty exciting. The clutch is located on the front of the engine, too; easy to access. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 00:29 on May 3, 2013 |
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May 3, 2013 00:02
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So I've recently upgrade to a Street Triple from a 250. What I have noticed while riding it is that if I put my feet down for a little while at a stop sign or light and pull my legs back up to continue on, the inside of my legs kind of cramp up. It's right at the hip bone on the inside. I'm thinking it has to do with the riding posture or where my legs are, I'm tall (6'2 34" inseam) and it must be just different enough from my 250 that it's bothering me. It's a bit dangerous and was def a lot worse when I was riding home from work than when I went to work. So I'm thinking of starting to do more stretching exercises to loosen myself up but is there anything I can/should do with the pegs to help me out?
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May 3, 2013 01:32
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shaitan posted:So I've recently upgrade to a Street Triple from a 250. What I have noticed while riding it is that if I put my feet down for a little while at a stop sign or light and pull my legs back up to continue on, the inside of my legs kind of cramp up. It's right at the hip bone on the inside. I'm thinking it has to do with the riding posture or where my legs are, I'm tall (6'2 34" inseam) and it must be just different enough from my 250 that it's bothering me. It's a bit dangerous and was def a lot worse when I was riding home from work than when I went to work. Have you tried altering where you actually put your butt in the seat? Also, what's the point of putting down both feet on a relatively light bike like that if you're quite tall? When I stop at a light I only put my left foot down and have my right on the brake; my bike weighs 220kg and I'm shorter than you by 3 inches so this shouldn't be a problem for you on a striple.
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May 3, 2013 01:44
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Slavvy posted:Have you tried altering where you actually put your butt in the seat? Also, what's the point of putting down both feet on a relatively light bike like that if you're quite tall? When I stop at a light I only put my left foot down and have my right on the brake; my bike weighs 220kg and I'm shorter than you by 3 inches so this shouldn't be a problem for you on a striple. That is what I usually do, one foot down, one on the brake. Sometimes I just like to put two down to move my legs around but you are right, I don't need to. I have been trying to adjust my butt around and see if there's a more comfortable spot, wasn't too successful last year with it, today was my first ride of the season 
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May 3, 2013 01:46
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shaitan posted:That is what I usually do, one foot down, one on the brake. Sometimes I just like to put two down to move my legs around but you are right, I don't need to. Your muscles have probably just re-adjusted to sitting behind a steering wheel
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May 3, 2013 02:28
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I'm in the middle riding from California to Alaska on my klr650. I know there's a thread for those but this one gets more traffic and I'm in a time crunch. My bike has developed a dying-idle and also the end tip of my supertrapp muffler blew off somewhere in the last 200 miles. Yesterday I rode 90 miles in a blizzard in the Canadian Rockies. I got stuck in a snow bank and spun the wheel for a while then finally just layed it down, got off, and accepted the help from a couple people and just pushed it out. Upon arriving at my destination when returned to idle it died. I started it back up and was idling around 700 rpm instead of the 900-1000 that I'm used to. Then it died again after 30 seconds. This morning (around 34°F) it started right up with full choke at around 1900 rpm (normal with full choke) then after 20 seconds went to 1k, then 700, then died. Restart, used choke, then removed choke and used hand throttle for a bit, once engine was past the C in temp I released throttle and it idled, kinda rough, between 700-900 rpm. Then I did 400 miles on the Alcan, changed the oil around 200 miles in, and also adjusted the idle screw to bring up idle to 1k sustained. Then after THAT at one point my muffler ejaculated. Questions! 1) did I break my bike? Idle screw just got outta wack? 2) how much is the muffler thing gonna effect my performance? Will I get in trouble crossing into Alaska?
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May 3, 2013 07:12
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The exhaust is causing the idle problem. Back pressure is important, and not only is it out of spec without the slipon... it's uneven because one is still on. Replace it and all will be right with the world again.
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May 3, 2013 14:17
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shaitan posted:That is what I usually do, one foot down, one on the brake. Sometimes I just like to put two down to move my legs around but you are right, I don't need to. As a fellow 6'2" goon, I also leg/hip cramps when riding, especially with my low bars and rearsets. Working on a new seat, so I plan to elevate my rear end a bit for comfort. When the cramps start, I find some relief by standing at longer stops to work the kinks out.
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May 3, 2013 15:15
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Halo_4am posted:The exhaust is causing the idle problem. Back pressure is important, and not only is it out of spec without the slipon... it's uneven because one is still on. I think he's just saying his end cap of the silencer fell off, not the entire slip-on. That usually won't affect things much but supertrapp tends to use those crazy endpieces to adjust backpressure. Might wanna have a go at trying to fit it back on if you were able to find it on the road. It should just take a couple M8 bolts or something easy to find.
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May 3, 2013 15:20
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Slavvy posted:Your muscles have probably just re-adjusted to sitting behind a steering wheel Actually I wonder if the difference between the 250 and this is just that this one is a lot wider. Tamir Lenk posted:As a fellow 6'2" goon, I also leg/hip cramps when riding, especially with my low bars and rearsets. Working on a new seat, so I plan to elevate my rear end a bit for comfort. See the problem isn't after riding for a while, it happens immediatly after I start, 2 mins into riding after hitting a stop sign and they just begin to HURT as soon as I put my foot back on the peg. Today they are still aching quite a bit, I'm def thinking I just need to start more stretching exercises to loosen the hips up. Granted I only rode 4 times last year due to health issues so that's probably why it's so bad right now, however I did notice it on my first rides with the bike last spring before I got sick.
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May 3, 2013 15:21
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I know a lot of you like to run Rotella T6 5W-40 synthetic so I wanted to let you guys know that it's $9 after rebate for a gallon at Advance Auto Parts right now.
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May 3, 2013 16:14
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drat. I'm about to go stock up for real. That's almost 1/3 the normal price. Even without the rebate that's 1/2 off. Thanks man!
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May 3, 2013 16:23
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Thanks for the heads-up! I'll need more of that soon, may as well stock up.
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May 3, 2013 16:33
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shaitan posted:See the problem isn't after riding for a while, it happens immediatly after I start, 2 mins into riding after hitting a stop sign and they just begin to HURT as soon as I put my foot back on the peg. Today they are still aching quite a bit, I'm def thinking I just need to start more stretching exercises to loosen the hips up. I think I have the same thing. I only started riding last year (and with a 6 month break because of snow lately), but whenever I would get on the bike or stop and put my feet down, I would get the cramps and sometimes I just had to stop and stretch to make them go away (not easy at red lights). I get the same thing when I'm taking a poo poo though, so I doubt it's something I'll get used to, it's just that leg/hip position/movement. I have back problems and I went to a chiropractor who put needles in my hip/rear end area and that helped for a while, but yeah I think stretches or whatever is what's gonna help in the long run.
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May 3, 2013 17:38
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SB35 posted:I know a lot of you like to run Rotella T6 5W-40 synthetic so I wanted to let you guys know that it's $9 after rebate for a gallon at Advance Auto Parts right now. My bike calls for 10W-40 or 15W-40. Somebody recently was saying "one of the numbers is important but the other one is flexible." Which one was it again?
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May 3, 2013 17:42
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First is flexible - "winter" weight, its cold viscosity. Second one is important - that's its warm viscosity. My own personal voodoo calls for a lower winter weight if I am going to fudge it because it might take more time to pump a thicker oil to the top of the engine when it's dead cold.
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May 3, 2013 17:57
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clutchpuck posted:First is flexible - "winter" weight, its cold viscosity. Second one is important - that's its warm viscosity. My own personal voodoo calls for a lower winter weight if I am going to fudge it because it might take more time to pump a thicker oil to the top of the engine when it's dead cold. So you think 5W-40 would run okay in my bike, if it calls for 10W-40 or 15W-40? Also I'm confused, how does the viscosity increase when it's warm? Or are these some weird backwards units like wire gauge? Obviously oil gets less viscous at higher T, but the warm viscosity number here is higher. Googling "SAE viscosity" has only confused me more. I'm an engineer so I think in SI units or Poise, not in weirdo industry units. 
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May 3, 2013 19:06
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My understanding of it, though mostly from what Nerobro posted a while back: The viscosity does not increase when the oil is hot. The grades given are "the grade the oil behaves like under two different test conditions", not actual measurements of viscosity. A 10W-40 oil behaves like a 40-weight oil under the high-temperature test cycle, and like a 10-weight oil under the low temperature cycle. The actual viscosity of the oil is going to be lower when it's hot regardless, but a 10W-40 is going to be thicker when hot than an SAE 10 would be, and thinner when cold than an SAE 40. More to the point, the second number is the important one because that's the viscosity when the engine is hot, as it will be most of the time. Obviously you want the right grade here so that it's not so thick that it doesn't flow easily, and not so thin that it drips off moving parts faster than it should. The first number is important for starting and in cold environments, because that's the viscosity when the engine is cold. A lower number will be more fluid at low temperatures. Lower viscosity in the cold means the oil will flow to the head more quickly and spend less time in a syrupy state where it provides inferior lubrication. The wider the separation between the numbers, the more suitable the oil is to wide temperature ranges. Running a 5W-40 instead of a 10W-40 just means that the oil will be a little more fluid when cold (which, if you live in a cold place, is a good thing), while still behaving like a 40-weight at operating temperature. However, the chemicals required to make the oil behave basically like two highly different oils in different situations mean that it breaks down faster and should be replaced more often. The takeaway from it all is "use what the manufacturer recommends" because you will be able to find the grade you need if you look around, and oil is literally the lifeblood of your engine. If you're stuck somewhere low on oil and desperately need some to get home, try to match the second number and don't worry too much about the first one. e: something I don't know for sure about is whether the viscosity can ever be made to be completely stable. I've seen 0W-60 racing oils before, and in a water-cooled engine it seems plausible that you could have a pretty constant viscosity from cold to hot with a range that wide. I am not a fluid engineer though. Viscosity. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 19:29 on May 3, 2013 |
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May 3, 2013 19:23
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Sagebrush posted:The wider the separation between the numbers, the more suitable the oil is to wide temperature ranges. Running a 5W-40 instead of a 10W-40 just means that the oil will be a little more fluid when cold (which, if you live in a cold place, is a good thing), while still behaving like a 40-weight at operating temperature. However, the chemicals required to make the oil behave basically like two highly different oils in different situations mean that it breaks down faster and should be replaced more often. Holy crap oil thread ahoy! This is good advice. In the case of Rotella T6 synthetic 5w40 - part of the reason for its popularity with motorcyclists is that it is good and resistant to the type of break down you're talking about. That's not always the case though so it's good to be cognizant of what goes on with oil if you're going to go off the manufacturer's recommendation.
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May 3, 2013 19:41
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Sagebrush is correct. Basically if your bike/car/whatever calls for, say, 10W-40, that's for temperate climate (meaning 50-70 degrees). Your manual should also have a "tropical" weight, meaning 70+ degrees, at around 15W-40. Very cold weather will recommend 5W40. But treating any motor with respect while your engine is warming up ensures that any of these numbers will work in any situation if necessary. Now of course all of this goes out the window when two websites will recommend two completely different types of oil for your engine (5w30 vs 20w60? I mean really?) so your mileage may literally vary
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May 3, 2013 23:23
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Hey, is there anything stopping me from using safety wire on these guys, or should I use epoxy like they recommend? http://www.revzilla.com/product/hot-grips-heated-hand-grips
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May 3, 2013 23:35
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Is it plastic or rubber all the way through? I wouldn't do safety wire if it is the former. I don't see how it would be an issue otherwise unless the heating element was hilariously thin and fragile.
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May 3, 2013 23:43
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