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lowcrabdiet posted:Cleaning out my storage unit, I found the OEM exhaust the previous owner hacksawed off. Throw it on Craigslist for $50-100 and see if you get any offers if you feel like dealing with people. Otherwise junk it.
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# ? Dec 3, 2013 19:47 |
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# ? Jun 5, 2024 03:05 |
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So I had the Bandit (1996 600 naked model) MOT'd a few weeks ago, and one of the things they had to fix was the indicators flashing too fast. All fine and dandy, but a week ago they stopped flashing and were just staying on, and then a couple of days ago they just stopped working altogether. How easy a fix is this, or should I take it back and ask them to double fix it? My experience with bike maintenance on the whole is very basic.
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# ? Dec 3, 2013 22:54 |
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Anyone had a FlashTune on a GSXR? The wiring harness on my bike was fubar so I put a new one in it ($50) and I'd rather not even cut the thing to install my XTRE or PC3. $100 for a flashtune seems almost too good to be true... It'd be a pre-made map but the local shop wanted $300 to tune my PC3 anyway and I can always have it tuned on a PC3 map later and send the map+ECU back to FlashTune to have the map integrated.
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# ? Dec 3, 2013 22:58 |
Shelvocke posted:So I had the Bandit (1996 600 naked model) MOT'd a few weeks ago, and one of the things they had to fix was the indicators flashing too fast. All fine and dandy, but a week ago they stopped flashing and were just staying on, and then a couple of days ago they just stopped working altogether. If they were flashing too fast, and there were no blown bulbs, it was most probably a faulty flasher thingy (can't remember the name) which they would've replaced to start with. Take it back to them.
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# ? Dec 3, 2013 23:14 |
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Shelvocke posted:So I had the Bandit (1996 600 naked model) MOT'd a few weeks ago, and one of the things they had to fix was the indicators flashing too fast. All fine and dandy, but a week ago they stopped flashing and were just staying on, and then a couple of days ago they just stopped working altogether. you probably have aftermarket indicators, with LEDs or smaller bulbs, the fix was probably a cheap flasher relay timed to suit the lower wattage, which subsequently failed by sticking on and burning itself out. You should have a warranty on it, go back to them about it.
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# ? Dec 4, 2013 03:29 |
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When post-crash handlebars are no longer straight, this guy's video says to
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vSunBRB6-r8 Is that about right? epswing fucked around with this message at 06:28 on Dec 4, 2013 |
# ? Dec 4, 2013 06:26 |
Pretty much. I've found that with bars (not clip-ons) it pays to loosen off the clamps holding the bar, then loosen off the nut on the through-bolt holding the clamp to the top triple. Often they twist around (by design) on the rubber cone/ball thingy and make it seem that the bars are bent.
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# ? Dec 4, 2013 08:50 |
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I've got a problem with my '97 ZZR600, hopefully you guys can help me out/tell me if I'm on the right track. My bike is parked outside of a night in an undercover parking spot at the front of my house, however it's not covered in tin or anything, just that mesh poo poo. Friday I filled up the bike, went for a bit of a ride, came home and parked it. Bike was running perfectly. Friday night it pissed down rather heavily and Saturday morning I get on the bike to got for a ride and it's running very rough. When you initially start up the bike it runs and idles fine, proceed to take off and it bogs down at low RPM, until about 4 - 5k rpm, in 1st and 2nd, haven't checked in 3rd. Once you're running it runs nice and smoothly. Come to park, put the bike in Neutral and it idles rough, sitting around 1000rpm, it'll jump up and down from about 1200 - 800, however if you hold the throttle steady it'll sit where you hold it. This happens in Neutral or 1st, with or without the clutch in. My initial thoughts were water in the fuel, so today I emptied the fuel tank completely put some Metho in to break down the water and filled it up with new fuel. I've done about 19kms on it so far and it still runs like poo poo, but I'm not expecting that to have fixed it instantly, I know it'll take at least a full tank to clean it out. My question is does this sound right or should I look at something else? I'm thinking also pull off the stator cover and check it's all dry in there. Bike has been sitting for 3 days now (well, 3ish - Sunday afternoon -> Wednesday around 4pm) so I had assumed that if it was water on the electrics it would have dried out by now. It hasn't rained since Saturday morning. What else should I be looking at/thinking? Dodgy/wet spark plugs/carbs need cleaning or anything? Thanks
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# ? Dec 4, 2013 10:20 |
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echomadman posted:you probably have aftermarket indicators, with LEDs or smaller bulbs, the fix was probably a cheap flasher relay timed to suit the lower wattage, which subsequently failed by sticking on and burning itself out. This reminded me, I've been thinking of maybe replacing the stock 21w bulbs on my 93 transalp with some more powerful led based bulbs as the indicators are abit dull compared to newer type indicators. The front indicators are square blocks integrated in the front fairings so replacing the whole holder with a pure led setup seems like a bit more effort. My question is: Do drop-in led bulbs work okay? dealextreme seem to have a million different kinds of them.
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# ? Dec 4, 2013 14:12 |
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Don't get them from dealextreme, get them from superbrightleds. The quality difference is crazy, and I've spent probably $500 on led replacements from various places over the past few years.
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# ? Dec 4, 2013 15:18 |
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Supradog posted:Do drop-in led bulbs work okay? You'll probably need a different flasher relay for them to flash at the appropriate speed, so just make sure one's available for your bike before you buy.
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# ? Dec 4, 2013 20:13 |
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I bought a taillight assembly for my Bandit for $30 and it happened to have LED bulbs included. Have to say I'm pretty impressed. Gonna get front turn signals installed on my bike next from superbrightleds.
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# ? Dec 4, 2013 20:23 |
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Shimrod posted:I've got a problem with my '97 ZZR600, hopefully you guys can help me out/tell me if I'm on the right track. Sounds kind of like vapor lock to me, when you removed the tank to empty bad gas make sure you didn't route the fuel lines so that they're touching something hot.
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# ? Dec 4, 2013 20:48 |
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Supradog posted:My question is: Do drop-in led bulbs work okay? dealextreme seem to have a million different kinds of them. With automotive LED replacement bulbs you really, really get what you pay for. Cheap ones are poo poo and end up being significantly dimmer than the little 7w incandescents they replace. You will need an appropriate flasher relay though, yes. The old-fashioned relays rely on current flow to heat up a little bimetallic strip that clicks back and forth as it heats and cools, and LEDs don't draw anywhere near enough current for that to work properly. I have one of these http://www.amazon.com/Keep-It-Clean-FF552NLF-Flasher/dp/B00383ETS0 and it's lovely, highly recommended if you have a bike with the really really old 2-prong relays. Dunno what to get if you have the 3-prong type but there are a lot more options.
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# ? Dec 5, 2013 02:04 |
Or you can wire ballast resistors in with the LED's and the flasher relay can't tell the difference. I did this on my 919; results may vary depending on the age and shittyness of the bike in question.
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# ? Dec 5, 2013 02:32 |
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Sagebrush posted:With automotive LED replacement bulbs you really, really get what you pay for. Cheap ones are poo poo and end up being significantly dimmer than the little 7w incandescents they replace. That relay is the exact same model sold at Autozone/Oreilly's for $13 or so as a generic "electronic flasher." It works well - I have one on each of my motorcycles. Ballast resistors are dumb unless you're getting LEDs just so you don't have to change bulbs. A huge benefit on motorcycles is their reduced running power draw, and a resistor negates that benefit entirely.
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# ? Dec 5, 2013 05:10 |
The benefit for me was getting rid of the godawful factory indicators and having integrated ones that were both better looking and brighter. On an injected 900cc bike I also doubt the added parasitic draw would even have been measurable; it isn't like I'm slamming on the power while indicating anyway so that seems meaningless. I can see it being useful on a doddery old bike with a weak or six volt charging system though.
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# ? Dec 5, 2013 06:31 |
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Or when you're running heated gear because you're not a pansy and you ride year-round
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# ? Dec 5, 2013 06:47 |
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Geirskogul posted:Or when you're running heated gear because you're not a pansy and you ride year-round It's like 40 here in Scottsdale, Az. I just rode to the bar in my mesh because I let a friend borrow my leather gear. It's so cold. Bahahaha.
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# ? Dec 5, 2013 07:05 |
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Slavvy posted:The benefit for me was getting rid of the godawful factory indicators and having integrated ones that were both better looking and brighter. On an injected 900cc bike I also doubt the added parasitic draw would even have been measurable; it isn't like I'm slamming on the power while indicating anyway so that seems meaningless. I can see it being useful on a doddery old bike with a weak or six volt charging system though. You'd be surprised, try it with a voltmeter across your battery sometime, especially at idle.
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# ? Dec 5, 2013 07:22 |
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HNasty posted:Sounds kind of like vapor lock to me, when you removed the tank to empty bad gas make sure you didn't route the fuel lines so that they're touching something hot. I didn't actually move the fuel lines, I just turned my Petcock to off and disconnected the fuel line there, I'll pull it apart and check the fuel line isn't against anything though, thanks.
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# ? Dec 5, 2013 07:23 |
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BlackMK4 posted:It's like 40 here in Scottsdale, Az. I just rode to the bar in my mesh because I let a friend borrow my leather gear. It's so cold. Bahahaha. Forty degrees? That's jacket and riding pants weather - long johns come out at around freezing, unless I'm going to be on the highway then I'll break them out if the trip is more than 10 miles or so. This had been my last four years before I moved down here: quote:The coldest day of the last 12 months was January 12, with a low temperature of 18°F. For reference, on that day the average low temperature is 29°F and the low temperature drops below 17°F only one day in ten. The coldest month of the last 12 months was January with an average daily low temperature of 28°F. Three of the years I didn't have a real running car, and rode to work every day. Kickstarting a motorcycle in 25 degree weather is difficult when the grease in the transmission sticks the kickstarter in the down position. One time I rode back on the highway for about 30 miles at around 4 to 6 degrees F up on the prairie. I honestly think I permanently damaged the tissue in parts of my hands and upper legs; about 20 miles into the ride the carburetor iced up (?) and I had to hold full throttle at the bottom of an 8-mile 7% grade at a stop light just to idle, but it slowly got better in city traffic. When people ask me how many layers I was wearing that day, I just reply with "All of them." I did purchase the heated gear the year afterwards. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 07:32 on Dec 5, 2013 |
# ? Dec 5, 2013 07:27 |
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It was 25 on my ride into school this morning. Felt nice. Brisk.
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# ? Dec 5, 2013 18:20 |
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Pope Mobile posted:It was 25 on my ride into school this morning. Felt nice. Brisk.
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# ? Dec 5, 2013 19:16 |
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You should know that with the proper gear it is not miserable at all.
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# ? Dec 5, 2013 19:36 |
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Miserable or not for the rider, I'm not sure there's a motorcycle tire sold today whose compound is intended to be pliable and grippy in those temps. Anything sporty is going to be hard as a brick.
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# ? Dec 5, 2013 19:43 |
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Shimrod posted:I didn't actually move the fuel lines, I just turned my Petcock to off and disconnected the fuel line there, I'll pull it apart and check the fuel line isn't against anything though, thanks. Did you look at the gas you drained, did it appear to have water in it? It's usually pretty easy to tell?
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# ? Dec 5, 2013 19:52 |
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Snowdens Secret posted:Miserable or not for the rider, I'm not sure there's a motorcycle tire sold today whose compound is intended to be pliable and grippy in those temps. Anything sporty is going to be hard as a brick. And that's entirely aside from the possibility of ice (so long as it's been cold enough for the ground to lose a bunch of heat.)
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# ? Dec 5, 2013 19:55 |
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Well, you have to have appropriate tires, as well. I'm not advocating taking your 2,000-mile-max sport tires into the ice and snow because it proves you're manly or anything. Everything has to be appropriate and as safe as possible. All I was commenting on is that the cold weather can definitely be not dangerous as far as your body is concerned with the proper gear.
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# ? Dec 5, 2013 20:12 |
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I am pretty sure it's friction that warms up tires, not ambient temps. In my experience running touring tires like Metzeler ME880 and PR2/PR3, riding in dry, below-freezing conditions - external hazards (like patches of ice) aside - is a lot like riding in the wet as far as tire traction is concerned. Take it easy, reduce your lean angle, dial back right wrist a little, increase your safety margins, and look out for slippery stuff: not gonna die.
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# ? Dec 5, 2013 20:17 |
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Zool posted:25 f on a motorcycle is miserable and dangerous, not brisk. I don't even know if my bike will start when it's that cold. It gets pouty and needs lots of choke when it's like 45-50F let alone below freezing.
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# ? Dec 5, 2013 21:32 |
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HNasty posted:Did you look at the gas you drained, did it appear to have water in it? It's usually pretty easy to tell? Dad had a quick look, but I'd tipped it out into dirt/grass without even thinking, not my brightest moment :/ It seemed to be running a bit better on my way back home last night after giving it a bit of a run, I'm still going to give it a going over and check the fuel lines, etc. hopefully this afternoon after work if I get back home with enough time. It's about due for a service so that's on the cards this weekend anyway.
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# ? Dec 5, 2013 21:57 |
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Zool posted:25 f on a motorcycle is miserable and dangerous, not brisk. Sexist.
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# ? Dec 5, 2013 23:12 |
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clutchpuck posted:I am pretty sure it's friction that warms up tires, not ambient temps. I am pretty sure that actually ambient temperatures have a hell of a lot to do with your tire temperature, especially if you aren't riding hard (as you probably shouldn't be in icy weather) and especially especially in the amount of time you'll spend on an average commute.
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# ? Dec 5, 2013 23:31 |
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Xovaan posted:Sexist. But 75-80f you're in for a hot ride.
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# ? Dec 6, 2013 00:00 |
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clutchpuck posted:I am pretty sure it's friction that warms up tires, not ambient temps. It's mostly carcass flexing that warms them up, but the ambient temperature has a huge effect on them sustaining their temps.
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# ? Dec 6, 2013 00:29 |
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captainOrbital posted:I don't even know if my bike will start when it's that cold. It gets pouty and needs lots of choke when it's like 45-50F let alone below freezing. Mine was like that last winter (even fully choked, the kickstarter needed a good thrashing) and I'd written it off as just being really cold-blooded, but after a recent tune-up it starts on the first or second kick every time
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# ? Dec 6, 2013 00:33 |
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My Enfield starts up on the first full good kick I can give it, even in the cold. The problem is that sometimes in the cold there is a lot of resistance on the kick lever and resetting it upwards can be a pain. The 79 CB650 starts up easily after you prime the carbs by giving the throttle a few good quick twists, but sometimes has issues with my ignition relay getting stuck in the cold and you have to hit give the headlight housing a good thwack with the kill switch in the 'on' position. I like the extra fuel squirt feature on the CB650 - it's like a quick temporary choke/enricher without having to use the actual choke lever.
Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Dec 6, 2013 |
# ? Dec 6, 2013 00:36 |
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Zool posted:25 f on a motorcycle is miserable and dangerous, not brisk. I have a 7:30AM start time at work - luckily it's a 12minute commute in SoCal, but last year we had a freaky cold spell and when I left for work at 7:10 it was 28F. My lightweight summer A* gloves were the weak point, and I could barely clutch by the time I got to work. My fingers loving hurt. I have a new bike and installed handguards this year, plus I bought some winter gloves but let me tell you - that kind of weather is better than coffee for waking up.
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# ? Dec 6, 2013 03:19 |
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# ? Jun 5, 2024 03:05 |
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Tusk Hand Mitts saved my rear end up in NorCal for the winter. I'd seriously recommend getting some.
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# ? Dec 6, 2013 03:40 |