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Seat Safety Switch posted:No, I mean, send me a speedo cable, because mine makes horrible noises and you probably have a spare. I think I have one.
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# ? Apr 10, 2014 02:28 |
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# ? Jun 3, 2024 22:59 |
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opengl128 posted:Does this sound like a common/known issue to anybody? My 97 started running like rear end today. I was cruising in 4th and it started to stumble, noticeably down on power. Pulled over, and it really wanted to stall, sounded like it was running on 2 cylinders at best. It would rev relatively freely, but barely stayed idling. Shut it down for 10 minutes or so, reseated every electrical connection in the engine bay, all plug wires, started it up, same thing. Decided to limp it home, got about 5 minutes with the same symptoms, until I got to a steep hill. Severely lost power at this point, even in first, I barely, barely made it up, it was coughing and sputtering and smelled like gas. Foot to the floor in first, barely kept it above idle and moving. Got over the hill, clutched in, gave it a few revs, and like a light switch, it was back to normal, drove the remaining 15 minutes home with no issue. No CEL at any time during this. I'm going to second plug wires here. Feels like a miss under load, revs fine otherwise. CAS is definitely my 2nd bet though.
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# ? Apr 10, 2014 03:27 |
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I had a similar issue that turned out to be the ECU frying itself. Big black burn right down the circuit board.
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# ? Apr 10, 2014 03:56 |
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FatCow posted:I think I have one. Let me know if you turn one up.
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# ? Apr 10, 2014 03:57 |
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Just purchased this, my first Miata (cross-post from Post Your Own Ride thread) Have already checked crank pulley and am now considering replacing tires (even though they're brand new) and shocks. Any suggestions for shocks?
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# ? Apr 10, 2014 13:01 |
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opengl128 posted:Does this sound like a common/known issue to anybody? My 97 started running like rear end today. I was cruising in 4th and it started to stumble, noticeably down on power. Pulled over, and it really wanted to stall, sounded like it was running on 2 cylinders at best. It would rev relatively freely, but barely stayed idling. Shut it down for 10 minutes or so, reseated every electrical connection in the engine bay, all plug wires, started it up, same thing. Decided to limp it home, got about 5 minutes with the same symptoms, until I got to a steep hill. Severely lost power at this point, even in first, I barely, barely made it up, it was coughing and sputtering and smelled like gas. Foot to the floor in first, barely kept it above idle and moving. Got over the hill, clutched in, gave it a few revs, and like a light switch, it was back to normal, drove the remaining 15 minutes home with no issue. No CEL at any time during this. Sounds like a coil pack issue to me. Almost the same deal happened with my car, also a '97. Randomly would run on 2 cylinders, mostly at startup, then would magically run fine for days. Started getting more often that it would act up, I had a hunch it was the coil packs, and I found a '96 Miata at the local yard so I grabbed some for 20 bucks and swapped them out. Haven't had a problem since. Getting ready to remove my cat because I'm pretty sure it's hosed with all the gas being dumped into it.
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# ? Apr 10, 2014 19:13 |
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leica posted:Sounds like a coil pack issue to me. Almost the same deal happened with my car, also a '97. Randomly would run on 2 cylinders, mostly at startup, then would magically run fine for days. Started getting more often that it would act up, I had a hunch it was the coil packs, and I found a '96 Miata at the local yard so I grabbed some for 20 bucks and swapped them out. Haven't had a problem since. Getting ready to remove my cat because I'm pretty sure it's hosed with all the gas being dumped into it. I'm definitely not driving it until I replace something, hoping not to damage the cat much, when i was sputtering up the hill in first you could hear and smell the gas spitting out the exhaust. I'm fairly confident it'll either be the CAS, wires, or coil pack, and already have the CAS coming from Phone, so hopefully I'll know soon.
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# ? Apr 10, 2014 19:42 |
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The good thing though is that the 96-97 coilpack is cheap and O'Reilly will sell you one with a lifetime warranty.
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# ? Apr 10, 2014 20:06 |
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Just purchased this, my first Miata (cross-post from Post Your Own Ride thread) http://fatcatmotorsports.com/FCM_Bilstein_coilover_revalve_NA_NB.htm for a daily driver. Xidas if you're making a dedicated track car.
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# ? Apr 10, 2014 20:41 |
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craig588 posted:http://fatcatmotorsports.com/FCM_Bilstein_coilover_revalve_NA_NB.htm for a daily driver. Xidas if you're making a dedicated track car. $2k for coilovers for a summer time car? That seems excessive. I am actually thinking of getting the Koni STR.T shocks and Racing Beat springs/sway bars for it when I jump in. Imperador do Brasil fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Apr 10, 2014 |
# ? Apr 10, 2014 21:13 |
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craig588 posted:http://fatcatmotorsports.com/FCM_Bilstein_coilover_revalve_NA_NB.htm for a daily driver. Xidas if you're making a dedicated track car. Xidas ride better than FCMs.
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# ? Apr 10, 2014 21:26 |
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Oh, well if that's true, Xidas all the way. They weren't an option when I got FCM revalves and I always assumed FCM were the only people doing street oriented shocks. The Konis aren't really much better than the stock Mazda shocks and you're already getting nearly halfway in price to good shock levels, it's kind of waste to spend that money on a very mild upgrade. The main reason the budget shock kits get so much play is even really cheap ones are better than 20+ year old worn out factory shocks.
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# ? Apr 10, 2014 21:36 |
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Yeah, my friend locally did that. He assembled a coilover using OTS parts and got an OK setup for $1000... which he just replaced with Xidas this past winter. So instead of spending $2000 on Xidas, he spent $3000 total for Xidas in the end. If you just want a cheap upgrade, scour CL and the various Miata forums for MSM complete assembly take-offs. If you can score a set of those for $500ish, that'd be decent. There's a lot of garbage in the $1k range, and if you're going to do it right, do it right once.
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# ? Apr 10, 2014 21:42 |
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How about waiting for Tecnas?
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# ? Apr 10, 2014 21:43 |
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I wish I were rich so I could use the FM rally AFCOs
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# ? Apr 10, 2014 21:53 |
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opengl128 posted:I'm definitely not driving it until I replace something, hoping not to damage the cat much, when i was sputtering up the hill in first you could hear and smell the gas spitting out the exhaust. I'm fairly confident it'll either be the CAS, wires, or coil pack, and already have the CAS coming from Phone, so hopefully I'll know soon. I highly doubt it's the wires, but if they're old replace them anyway. craig588 posted:The Konis aren't really much better than the stock Mazda shocks and you're already getting nearly halfway in price to good shock levels, it's kind of waste to spend that money on a very mild upgrade. The main reason the budget shock kits get so much play is even really cheap ones are better than 20+ year old worn out factory shocks. Well the problem is that most factory shocks on NAs are toast anyway, and who the hell is going to buy new OEM shocks? I got a very slightly used set of koni yellows with FCM bumpstops and stock springs/top hats for $400 from a guy that upgraded to a FCM setup, was perfect for me, and you can find deals like that if you look around. I like the Konis, imo they are the best for an affordable stock replacement. Eventually I'll upgrade to Xidas/FCM. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 23:04 on Apr 10, 2014 |
# ? Apr 10, 2014 23:01 |
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I'm probably going with either Vmaxx and Techna coilovers because I'm a poor pleb.
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# ? Apr 10, 2014 23:04 |
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If you're poor just get some Koni yellows and maybe some used GC sleeves. If you can't afford Xidas or FCMs wait until you can because it's just a waste otherwise.
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# ? Apr 10, 2014 23:14 |
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So my ebay selling has gone quite well, gonna order the top here shortly. The original top was tan, looks like it was vinyl-dyed black to hide the imperfections. I'm okay with the black top honestly so I'm looking at the Black Cabrio Vinyl listed on Topsonline for $335. Will I regret that choice? What's the go-to model I should be getting?
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# ? Apr 11, 2014 04:46 |
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Are Xidas/FCM the recommended setup for NCs as well? I'm looking into getting a new setup as the stock NC has massive bodyroll. It's exclusively a street-driven car now. I might want to get into Autocross/track days in the future, but not definitely on that yet. If it changes your recommendation, street-only.
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# ? Apr 11, 2014 05:14 |
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Rhyno posted:So my ebay selling has gone quite well, gonna order the top here shortly. The original top was tan, looks like it was vinyl-dyed black to hide the imperfections. I'm okay with the black top honestly so I'm looking at the Black Cabrio Vinyl listed on Topsonline for $335. Will I regret that choice? What's the go-to model I should be getting? The one I just installed last weekend was a robbins from tops online (saddle cabrio vinyl). Robbins is the go-to brand afaik, get it with a rain rail if you don't want to hate yourself (or have people at the shop hate you).
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# ? Apr 11, 2014 06:11 |
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dpidz0r posted:The one I just installed last weekend was a robbins from tops online (saddle cabrio vinyl). Robbins is the go-to brand afaik, get it with a rain rail if you don't want to hate yourself (or have people at the shop hate you). I'm pretty sure I'll have to find someone to install it since I've been told the NC tops are a nightmare to install.
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# ? Apr 11, 2014 06:15 |
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Can you get a two piece top for NC's? Having a zip down rear window is a nice feature, I love mine.
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# ? Apr 11, 2014 16:01 |
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I have a zip-down rear window on my 97 soft-top but the zip seems to be stuck. So far I've been wiggling it back and forth gradually and it seems to be loosening up but only in a small section of the zipper each time. I'm paranoid I'm going to break it and I doubt silicone grease will help. Can anyone actually explain the "rolled up t-shirt" or "pool noodle" thing to me? All of the forum discussions about lowering a two-piece top without unzipping the rear window reference it, but I can never figure out what you're actually supposed to do, and my plastic window is already creased from the PO.
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# ? Apr 11, 2014 16:04 |
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Can anyone actually explain the "rolled up t-shirt" or "pool noodle" thing to me? All of the forum discussions about lowering a two-piece top without unzipping the rear window reference it, but I can never figure out what you're actually supposed to do, and my plastic window is already creased from the PO. You have to fold the rear window, which can crack if it's folded too sharply. The shirt or noodle is to prevent that.
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# ? Apr 11, 2014 16:23 |
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Sudden Infant Def Syndrome posted:You have to fold the rear window, which can crack if it's folded too sharply. The shirt or noodle is to prevent that. Oh, I can do that. Time for some topless motoring, just in time for spring thunderstorms. Thanks!
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# ? Apr 11, 2014 16:27 |
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I've never unzipped my rear window when putting the top down. Guessing the PO didn't either, as the window folds perfectly from so many years of doing that. It doesn't really crease, just gently folds in on itself at the same spot every time.
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# ? Apr 11, 2014 17:22 |
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I've seen a bunch of them cracked right down that crease. Probably has to do with the cold temperatures around here when the plastic becomes brittle. As for zippers, try rubbing some candle was on the teeth and running it back and forth a few times. Usually makes it run a lot smoother for me.
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# ? Apr 11, 2014 19:43 |
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Finished the deal on a 2012 GT soft top today. ~8k miles, premium and suspension packages (really just wanted the LSD) with tan leather and the crystal white mica paint. Mostly bought it for a weekend car for the wife and I. Burned through half a tank going through the twisties up at Lime Creek Road to get a feel for the car. Not sure if I want to put in sways just yet. Definitely want the upgrade the horn since I've had to use it twice already to avoid being splattered. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P_ZJWSUOBuo Forgive my poo poo picture taking and that the car is a little dirty. Link at the end to an album with a few more pictures. http://imgur.com/a/bWSLF
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# ? Apr 12, 2014 20:31 |
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Bovril Delight posted:Finished the deal on a 2012 GT soft top today. ~8k miles, premium and suspension packages (really just wanted the LSD) with tan leather and the crystal white mica paint. Mostly bought it for a weekend car for the wife and I. Burned through half a tank going through the twisties up at Lime Creek Road to get a feel for the car. Not sure if I want to put in sways just yet. Definitely want the upgrade the horn since I've had to use it twice already to avoid being splattered. I replaced the horn in mine. I used the large red plastic horn kind, seen here as what not to do. It was a bit of a pain in the rear end to install, so the smaller one pictured there could be good. Make sure to replace the fuse with a larger one when/if you do replace the horn though. I blew the fuse on my first extended horn blast.
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# ? Apr 13, 2014 05:27 |
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Reminds me of an Eclipse.
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# ? Apr 13, 2014 05:51 |
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craig588 posted:
Is that the donor for transplant? Looks like it's still mostly there.
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# ? Apr 13, 2014 08:09 |
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leica posted:Can you get a two piece top for NC's? Having a zip down rear window is a nice feature, I love mine. I haven't seen anything. I'm really on the fence right now, I was browsing pictures of Miatas with the saddle leather interior and now the matched top is starting to grow on me. I really wish I could see it in person before I make a choice.
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# ? Apr 13, 2014 09:15 |
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I just removed the intake manifold brace on my NA Miata to make getting at a stuck oil filter easier. I've seen mixed information on the internet, but most people seem to think that I can just keep the brace off indefinitely. I was wondering what yall's experience was with this.
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# ? Apr 13, 2014 19:51 |
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Leave it off. I know a bunch of people who track their cars without it. Myself included.
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# ? Apr 14, 2014 03:10 |
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Rhyno posted:I haven't seen anything. I'm really on the fence right now, I was browsing pictures of Miatas with the saddle leather interior and now the matched top is starting to grow on me. I really wish I could see it in person before I make a choice. If you're talking about the matched interior/top and not the zip window I can say from experience that it took a few weeks but the saddle brown top grew on me as well. That being said I was planning on replacing it with a black top because it's horrid to maintain the saddle brown color properly and on a really bright day it washes out to a lighter brown and not nearly as sexy.
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# ? Apr 14, 2014 08:13 |
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Tanz-Kommandant posted:If you're talking about the matched interior/top and not the zip window I can say from experience that it took a few weeks but the saddle brown top grew on me as well. That being said I was planning on replacing it with a black top because it's horrid to maintain the saddle brown color properly and on a really bright day it washes out to a lighter brown and not nearly as sexy. I keep going back and forth on it, for $400+ I want to be sure of what I want.
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# ? Apr 14, 2014 08:21 |
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The way I look at it is if you have a tan/saddle interior, you should have a tan/saddle top. Black interior, black top. My '96 had a tan top with black interior and it looked stupid, I imagine a black top with a tan interior would look wrong also. Too many different colors, keep it simple.
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# ? Apr 14, 2014 16:09 |
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Tan tops are ugly, black tops forever
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# ? Apr 14, 2014 17:06 |
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# ? Jun 3, 2024 22:59 |
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Black and Tan is one of the best Miata color combos ever. 95M is the best, followed closely by BRG.
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# ? Apr 14, 2014 17:32 |