|
Z3n posted:The numbers are printed on the jets. Better to just snag a jet kit though to get to known good settings, as each company measures jet size a little differently. Fair enough, seems like Ivan's is the way to go on the early R1. $100 isn't too bad for a known good setup... I'll get the thing rideable first - needs about $200 in parts... Maybe I'll end up swapping 02/03 tb/ecu/harness in the thing for FI if it rides alright. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 17:26 on Jul 17, 2014 |
#
?
Jul 17, 2014 17:23
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 08:02 |
|
|
The heat shield on my KLR's header pipe has been a constant annoyance. I've had to put on new gaskets every two or three months because it keeps rattling out of place. I finally snapped the bolt to the left side off it today and am fed up with it. It's not really over my leg, so i'm not worried about cooking it or anything. What I am worried about is if that will mess with the exhaust system or anything else if I just take it off and leave the bolt holes covered. Am I going to mess up something by leaving it bare, or just coating it with a hi-temp paint?
for sale fucked around with this message at 02:41 on Jul 18, 2014 |
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2014 02:29
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:Fair enough, seems like Ivan's is the way to go on the early R1. $100 isn't too bad for a known good setup... I'll get the thing rideable first - needs about $200 in parts... Maybe I'll end up swapping 02/03 tb/ecu/harness in the thing for FI if it rides alright. I always buy stock jets in whatever size that I need rather than paying goofy money for oddly numbered aftermarket stuff. You can get a pack of four Mikuni jets for $10 off of Amazon. I'm sure if you read the forums for whatever bike you're working on you can get a really close baseline to get started. Most times going up two sizes from stock on the Mains will get you pretty close if you've got a full system. I've never tried to tune CV carbs with no airbox because I've heard 1 success story for every 200 failures and have never felt the need to subject myself to that kind of torture. Also I would totally recommend getting a laser IR thermometer for dialing in the fuel screws. Makes such a massive difference and saves so much time over tuning by reading plugs.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2014 03:02
|
|
|
This is an extreme longshot, but does anyone with more knowledge of parts places have a line on where I can get a CDI unit for a Honda XLR Baja (KZ9, it's the MD-22 platform)? It shares a lot of parts with the regular XR/XL250's, but apparently the CDI is specific to the Baja, and thus made of unicorn. Supposed to leave on my roadtrip 7/24, not looking too likely... Mechanic thinks that might be the cause of my bike's stutter, but there are no loving replacements to be had anywhere in Japan so far: it's a 22 year old bike, and many were exported to Southeast Asia grey market. I found one place here that had one but sold it on Yahoo Auctions probably 2 years ago, one place in Thailand selling one in a year old post (sent them a message [about the only time learning Thai has ever paid off since leaving Bangkok, heh], and a shop I know in Vietnam that has a few Baja's, but they're all basically moonshots. Google hasn't led me to anything else. THIS IS WHY YOU DON'T BUY AN OLD BIKE WITH lovely PARTS AVAILABILITY 
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2014 03:05
|
|
|
for sale posted:The heat shield on my KLR's header pipe has been a constant annoyance. I've had to put on new gaskets every two or three months because it keeps rattling out of place. I finally snapped the bolt to the left side off it today and am fed up with it. It's not really over my leg, so i'm not worried about cooking it or anything. What I am worried about is if that will mess with the exhaust system or anything else if I just take it off and leave the bolt holes covered. Am I going to mess up something by leaving it bare, or just coating it with a hi-temp paint? Chuck it. You'll be fine.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2014 03:37
|
|
|
Safety Dance posted:Chuck it. You'll be fine. Hell yeah, thank you. So stoked to not have to drill that thing out.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2014 03:43
|
|
|
Pompous Rhombus posted:This is an extreme longshot, but does anyone with more knowledge of parts places have a line on where I can get a CDI unit for a Honda XLR Baja (KZ9, it's the MD-22 platform)? It shares a lot of parts with the regular XR/XL250's, but apparently the CDI is specific to the Baja, and thus made of unicorn. Can you open it up and have a look at the innards? My GS had a cylinder dropping out (which I'm guessing would be a stutter if it didn't have 3 extras) due to a bad solder joint on one leg of one of the power transistors. I reflowed it and it's been perfect for the past 5 years.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2014 04:36
|
|
|
Bugdrvr posted:Can you open it up and have a look at the innards? My GS had a cylinder dropping out (which I'm guessing would be a stutter if it didn't have 3 extras) due to a bad solder joint on one leg of one of the power transistors. I reflowed it and it's been perfect for the past 5 years. I think it takes a dremel (and I am poo poo at electrical issues). The guy I had lined up to buy it just got back to me (sent him a "sorry, this doesn't look good..." email this morning) and apparently he repairs stuff like old CDI's in his spare time. Might even have an old one (gave it to someone he sold another bike to, is looking into getting it back now), he also suggested the same thing. Will ask the mechanic about it, might be able to take it by my technical high school and ask an EE teacher to take a look at it. Fingers crossed. But yeah, as cool as the Baja is, it was a really terrible choice for a first bike, at least as far as maintenance goes. There is basically zero info on it in English (they weren't widely sold outside of Japan, I think Europe got some), and the aforementioned unicorn parts can really cause you to tear your hair out. One of the oil hardlines rattled apart last November and my mechanic spent 2 weeks calling places all over the country trying to find a replacement, in the end had to bodge something together out of tubing (couldn't TIG weld the old one back) that has a slow leak. Next bike is going to be something like a pre-08 KLR, where parts are plentiful and there are tons of tutorials/information available in English.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2014 06:28
|
|
|
ReelBigLizard posted:Did they change the brake fluid on that service? That poo poo hates paint and it can spit in the bleeding process. Yeah they did actually, if that's the case it's pretty hosed up. the service was about a month ago, so I doubt they'll believe me if I take it up with them...
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2014 15:41
|
|
|
theperminator posted:Yeah they did actually, if that's the case it's pretty hosed up. the service was about a month ago, so I doubt they'll believe me if I take it up with them... Might be worth going to small claims court. Oftentimes people don't even show up and boom, you've got a default judgment allowing you to place a lien on their property if they don't pay up.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2014 15:44
|
|
Radbot posted:Might be worth going to small claims court. Oftentimes people don't even show up and boom, you've got a default judgment allowing you to place a lien on their property if they don't pay up. I'll just go ahead and say it's pretty hosed up to take a shop to court over something you can't even prove is their fault / happened due to their negligence. If you let it sit for a month and then suddenly call them up bitching that they hosed it up I'd assume the response you get will be pretty lukewarm.
|
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2014 20:04
|
|
|
Then they should show up and they can resolve their dispute in court. It's about as much hassle as contesting a parking ticket.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2014 21:03
|
|
|
You have no idea if this bubble was caused by the shop or by rust/corrosion that just happened to form under the paint.
|
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2014 21:31
|
|
|
Baller Witness Bro posted:You have no idea if this bubble was caused by the shop or by rust/corrosion that just happened to form under the paint. That's correct, I was just taking the poster at their word. Perhaps you should let the dealer worry about defending themselves?
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2014 21:34
|
|
|
Ehhh, I doubt it's rust under the paint causing that. I accidentally left a tiny drop of brake fluid on my front fairing and it bubbled up the same way. I've never seen rust behave that way under paint.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2014 21:50
|
|
|
I've seen people link a good source for OEM style wiring connectors but I can't remember it. The previous owner of my bike apparently thought cutting out the original connector for my left turn signal and then twisting the wires together and taping it all up into a mass of electrical tape was a job well done, I soldered in a new connector but the ones I got are too big to fit through the plastic nut thing you have to thread the wire through for the turn signal, so I'd prefer to get a new one that's closer to the OEM one.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2014 21:54
|
|
|
I buy stuff from here, because Hondas use 3.5mm bullet connectors that don't appear to be used on any other brands. http://www.cycleterminal.com/ However if I'm rewiring something myself entirely, I tend to use Molex Mini-Fit Jr. or Micro-Fit connectors. They're nice -- Mini-Fits are the connectors on top of your graphics card, and Micro-Fits are slightly more compact versions of the same.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2014 22:08
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:I buy stuff from here, because Hondas use 3.5mm bullet connectors that don't appear to be used on any other brands. This is good: now I can stop fixing my turn signal at stoplights. MINIMUM ORDER OF FIVE DOLLARS? I was going to buy one single tiny connector.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2014 22:37
|
|
|
Radbot posted:That's correct, I was just taking the poster at their word. Perhaps you should let the dealer worry about defending themselves? You seem like a pretty laid back guy.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2014 22:53
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:I buy stuff from here, because Hondas use 3.5mm bullet connectors that don't appear to be used on any other brands. Are those Molex connectors okay for being out in the elements? I'm about to start wiring a project bike and am starting to look at what all I need.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2014 23:02
|
|
|
If you want good connections but don't have the tools, know-how, or cares for heat shrink, solder, and crimped connections then do yourself a favor and just use these: http://www.posi-lock.com They come in tap, splice, small, and waterproof varieties and make great connections while being stupid simple to use. Available at lower prices on amazon and possibly at your local hardware store.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2014 23:17
|
|
|
The Senator Giroux posted:Are those Molex connectors okay for being out in the elements? I'm about to start wiring a project bike and am starting to look at what all I need. They aren't waterproof, but the larger ones are about as resilient as any OEM block. Put a heat-shrink sleeve around them and they'll be fine as long as they aren't right in line with the front wheel spray or something. Just make sure that whatever you're getting is rated for the expected current of the wire. For incandescent turn signals you can expect a few amps, so either of the connectors I mentioned (Mini-Fit Jr: 13A, Micro-Fit: 5A) would be fine. If you're trying to rewire your starter motor or alternator or something you're going to need to be more cautious. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 23:22 on Jul 18, 2014 |
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2014 23:19
|
|
|
Halo_4am posted:If you want good connections but don't have the tools, know-how, or cares for heat shrink, solder, and crimped connections then do yourself a favor and just use these: Don't use posi-locks for anything consistently high-current. Like you can tap off the brake light line to run an accessory relay with one, but don't actually run your brake light through one. Or headlights. The Futura board currently has a guy whose R/R melted to slag coincidentally after he used posi-locks for the wires on both the stator and battery sides.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2014 23:31
|
|
|
I always advocate soldering with proper heatshrink, but posi-lock connectors are great for low load scenarios. But, if you're doing higher load scenarios (like those guys on the futura board, I just read through that thread) a screw or crimp block would be better. Don't forget the dielectric grease! An aluminum or steel screw block combined with copper wires, in the areas they were using them (semi-open to the elements, like everything on a motorcycle can be considered to be), plus time, equals corroded connections. Corroded connections equals resistance, and resistance equals heat. I'm certain that at least three of the posted failures could be attributed to corrosion over time, and/or improper installation (not tightening the connectors down enough, connectors hanging free being allowed to unscrew, etc). Dielectric grease greatly slows the corrosion by blocking air and moisture.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2014 00:13
|
|
|
Baller Witness Bro posted:You have no idea if this bubble was caused by the shop or by rust/corrosion that just happened to form under the paint. ABS Plastic doesn't rust/corrode does it? :P I'm not going to take them to small claims, too much effort. just gonna have to live with it. it's down near the bottom of the bike anyway so meh.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2014 00:56
|
|
|
Hey that's a reasonable opinion! You know what isn't reasonable is deciding to sue the shop owner out of the blue one month after the fact because he may or may not have dripped brake fluid on your tank. Glad you didn't go with that option. I didn't really think about the cover being plastic, but that info certainly makes the fluid damage seem more likely. I just don't like the idea of jumping to that kind of outcome against what I'm assuming is a smallish business owner without any kind of sensible attempt at talking to them or something. Seriously "just sue them and work it out in court!" is mootmoot crashing on dry pavement level retarded.
|
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2014 02:02
|
|
|
Bugdrvr posted:I don't know what would make that noise. It might click and then you'd hear the starter whine a bit if it doesn't have enough power. If you hook it up to the bike battery does it sound normal again? I ordered these o-rings and put them in today, took a total of 2 hours. While I had the carbs out I rechecked the bowls and jets, and they're all pristine. The old o-rings seem fine, no cuts or anything, same with the intakes. Anyway, I had the same problems as before, it dies below 2k RPM. I can hold it steady at 2k with the choke or throttle, but it just dies below that. I sprayed carb cleaner on the intake and air cleaner boots, no change in engine sound. On the plus side, it sounds a million times smoother than before. At this point it might be the mixture adjustment, maybe I have it set too rich or lean? i tried to approximately have the screws at the same height (2.5 turns out) by counting the rings, since 2 of the springs are different lengths. Maybe I should find a tiny depth gauge?
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2014 02:43
|
|
|
Yeah, being able to prove whether or not they caused it is more to satisfy my curiosity. for all I know something did get on it in my garage or whatever. I don't even really care that much, I have no idea what it is with people and litigation over the slightest thing either.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2014 02:49
|
|
|
red19fire posted:I ordered these o-rings and put them in today, took a total of 2 hours. While I had the carbs out I rechecked the bowls and jets, and they're all pristine. The old o-rings seem fine, no cuts or anything, same with the intakes. Is this cold or after you've ridden it for a while? Like I was saying before, my bike dies unless I hold the throttle until it gets warm (at least a 5-10 minute ride). I can use the choke to keep the idle up but usually just hold the throttle until I end up on the freeway because I'll forget the choke is on and ride 30 miles to work wondering why the bike is acting funny. You might be good to go as it sits. Also, borrow/buy a laser thermometer to dial the screws in once you're happy where you're at. Easy and super accurate.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2014 04:52
|
|
|
Can anyone in Boulder Colorado recommend a repair shop? I'm partway through a cross country ride and started leaking oil like crazy in the mountains. I stopped at a repair shop in a tiny town and, strangely enough, the dude had just come across the same problem/same bike two days prior. Apparently, putting too much oil in a Nighthawk 250 blows out a seal behind the flywheel. Now, this guy had a two week wait, so I hobbled to Boulder (over two mountain passes), putting oil in every ten miles. I went through almost two quarts over 80 miles. But, I made it to Boulder and hopefully didn't do permanent damage. So... Can anyone recommend a shop, or how to pick one slightly better than at random from the ten in town?
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2014 05:38
|
|
|
Leon Sumbitches posted:Can anyone in Boulder Colorado recommend a repair shop?
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2014 16:31
|
|
|
Discomancer posted:The shops in Boulder are not very good, I'm sure Mike's *can* fix it, but it won't be cheap or quick, given my past experience with them. TFOG in Golden is alright if you can get it down there. Let me know if I can help in any way, if it's something you can fix up yourself, you're welcome to bring it to my house and use my garage/tools to work on it. I'll PM you my phone number. Awesome. I'm at TFOG now, this is the kind of shop I feel most comfortable with. Thank you! (also, thanks for picking me up and taking me back to Boulder!)
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2014 18:34
|
|
|
theperminator posted:Yeah, being able to prove whether or not they caused it is more to satisfy my curiosity. for all I know something did get on it in my garage or whatever. There's no harm in bringing it up with them, just tell them that you think they might have got something splashed on the paint when it was with them because it has bubbled up in one specific spot and the bike hasn't ridden since it was in the shop. Most likely they'll tell you to go spin but sometimes you get someone who has a real hardon for customer service and will give you the benefit of the doubt. Being polite about it is paramount. As a former workshop manager I'd always want to know about poo poo we might have done wrong so I could avoid issues in future, especially with junior techs who would do stupid poo poo and try to cover it up. Even if it couldn't be conclusively proven that we hosed up, if I got say 5 complaints about jobs all by the same tech then I'm going to be keeping my eye on that guy.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2014 14:10
|
|
|
I have a couple questions about my new bike: 2014 BMW G650GS. I now have 1200km, and it's time for the running-in service. I'm going to change the oil, check & lube the chain and basically inspect the bike overall. The service guide shows the mechanics would check torque on a thousand or so fasteners on the bike. If I do this service instead of taking it in, am I going to miss the one bolt that holds the bike in one piece and come apart on the highway? I also have a scritchy-scratchy noise from the front pads more or less every time I brake. It didn't do it brand new, but now does it in all conditions, warm or cold, wet or dry. Is this normal for a modern pad material or whatever unicorn dust BMW makes them from? Last question. I find it's become easier to miss second when shifting at intersections. I know I need to give it a firm kick up into gear, but I've found myself revving uselessly a couple times. This did not happen in the first 500km, but now happens occasionally even though I feel like I'm shifting firmly. Before I go whine at the dealership about all this, just wanted to get some opinions. All in all, I'm loving riding this thing compared to my 1977 KZ1000. 
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2014 14:12
|
|
|
I'd try adjusting your shift lever, you're probably being a little lazy about it and not realising. If I'm not wearing my boots for some reason I'll occasionally stuff up 1 - 2 and put it in neutral by accident.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2014 14:15
|
|
|
mr.belowaverage posted:Last question. I find it's become easier to miss second when shifting at intersections. I know I need to give it a firm kick up into gear, but I've found myself revving uselessly a couple times. This did not happen in the first 500km, but now happens occasionally even though I feel like I'm shifting firmly. Before I go whine at the dealership about all this, just wanted to get some opinions. How far do you pull in your clutch lever when shifting up?
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2014 14:31
|
|
|
Anyone ever rent a bike while travelling out of state? I'm visiting friends in norcal this september and it would suck to pass up some of the quality riding I've been missing.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2014 15:23
|
|
|
ReelBigLizard posted:How far do you pull in your clutch lever when shifting up? That's pretty hard to quantify, since it's so unconscious. For 1-2, I believe I pull it right to the bar quickly, but I'm going to try to pay attention to that now. Which might disappear the problem 
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2014 15:37
|
|
|
mr.belowaverage posted:That's pretty hard to quantify, since it's so unconscious. For 1-2, I believe I pull it right to the bar quickly, but I'm going to try to pay attention to that now. Which might disappear the problem Yeah I thought my KTM had a problem about 1500mi in too, turns out I was just pulling the clutch all the way in 
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2014 15:46
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 08:02 |
|
|
M42 posted:Anyone ever rent a bike while travelling out of state? I'm visiting friends in norcal this september and it would suck to pass up some of the quality riding I've been missing. Depending on when you're out here, I might have a Ninja 250 you could borrow.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2014 19:21
|
|
