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BlackMK4 posted:Bike acts like it has warped rotors but as soon as I sand the pads lightly on a flatblock the brakes go perfectly smooth. If I track the bike the brakes are smooth. If I ride the bike hard the brakes are smooth. If I commute the brakes act warped after a few days. Wtf? I don't know if it's the same on bikes as cars, but warped rotors are almost always a myth automotively. http://www.mossmotors.com/SiteGraphics/Pages/brake_discs.html Maybe try this procedure to re-bed your brakes?
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Dec 1, 2014 19:59
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That's the thing. A track session is basically a bedding in procedure. Running an entire trackday won't clear up the vibration but sanding the pads will. Guess I may as well just toss the pads in the trash. $105 for a set of PF pads.
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Dec 1, 2014 21:00
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Tried resurfacing your rotors?
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Dec 1, 2014 21:16
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Buttons getting full of crud?
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Dec 2, 2014 06:25
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I definitely get a warped rotor feel when coming to a stop at the lights and my brakes have not been abused in any way I can think of. The conclusion I came to was that it was crud in the buttons, because when I tried to wiggle the rotor it was quite stiff in places and you could hear the crackly noise of the brake dust and crud in the buttons and they sort of broke a bit free. I tried spraying some water into the button the other day because gently caress going through the brake cleaner + oil method someone posted a while back, but I haven't noticed whether or not it helped yet.
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Dec 2, 2014 09:01
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Here4DaGangBang posted:I definitely get a warped rotor feel when coming to a stop at the lights and my brakes have not been abused in any way I can think of. The conclusion I came to was that it was crud in the buttons, because when I tried to wiggle the rotor it was quite stiff in places and you could hear the crackly noise of the brake dust and crud in the buttons and they sort of broke a bit free. I tried spraying some water into the button the other day because gently caress going through the brake cleaner + oil method someone posted a while back, but I haven't noticed whether or not it helped yet. It's really not that hard to clean then - wiggle the button (rotate it back and forth) while squirting in brake cleaner. Repeat all the way round the disk, then make sure they all turn freely and repeat on anything that needs doing. People go on about sealing them or protecting them with all sorts of things but really it's one of those jobs that's so easy to do it's almost pointless to do a "proper" job.
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Dec 2, 2014 12:01
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goddamnedtwisto posted:It's really not that hard to clean then - wiggle the button (rotate it back and forth) while squirting in brake cleaner. Repeat all the way round the disk, then make sure they all turn freely and repeat on anything that needs doing. That's not so bad, and I have bought brake cleaner for that purpose. Someone posted a much more elaborate video a while back which seemed like overkill considering it's something which I'm guessing will need to be done reasonably often.
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Dec 2, 2014 14:27
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since i'm 100% new to the riding world: what kind of insurance does everyone carry? it seems that insurance quotes are all over the place. Additionally, if you finance your bike, do the financial institutions generally require a higher level of insurance than the average rider would carry?
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Dec 2, 2014 18:42
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I chose insurance that covers bodily injury on myself/my passenger, uninsured driver, and liability. It runs about $40 a month for pretty solid coverage for covering my rear end (but not my bike, no collision/comprehensive for me). You could pay a lot less than this by lowering the liability amounts or removing the other things. I believe liability is all that's required. Coverage varies widely by where you live, your age, and driving record. I think mine is so expensive because of where I live. Don't finance your first bike, just buy a cheap beater to learn on. edit: and by cheap beater, I don't mean a rusty honda from the 70s, I mean a running GS500/Ninja/SV650 hot sauce fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Dec 2, 2014 |
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Dec 2, 2014 18:52
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hot sauce posted:Don't finance your first bike, just buy a cheap beater to learn on. A million times this. I have/had geico. Both regular and uninsured bodily injury (100/300) + regular and uninsured property damage (20k), and comprehensive. Came out to like 35 a month for my ninja 250. e: I'm probably gonna switch to a company that has gear insurance for my next bike. M42 fucked around with this message at 19:02 on Dec 2, 2014 |
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Dec 2, 2014 19:00
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I cary comprehensive but have a fairly high deductible to keep the premiums down. This is doable because I ride an old mans touring motorcycle. There's no way I could afford comp coverage on a full fairing sportbike. I don't carry personal injury protection as I have pretty good health insurance through my employer. Unless you already have health insurance I would HIGHLY recommend that you get personal injury protection. Even a short ambulance ride followed by a short hospital stay will cost many times the value of your motorcycle. +1 to what hot sauce said about financing. If you chose to ignore this advice you will likely be required to get comprehensive, or even gap insurance.
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Dec 2, 2014 19:00
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Is bike bandit the cheapest place to buy OEM parts? The PO for my 599 has smooth metal grips on it and my hands slip off, so they need to be replaced pronto. http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2004-honda-599-cb600f/o/m151219#sch307599 It looks like part 9, 10 and 11 in this diagram is all I need. hot sauce fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Dec 2, 2014 |
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Dec 2, 2014 19:33
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Here4DaGangBang posted:That's not so bad, and I have bought brake cleaner for that purpose. Someone posted a much more elaborate video a while back which seemed like overkill considering it's something which I'm guessing will need to be done reasonably often. If that's the Delboy's Garage one yeah, that's the right way to do it (and it might be worthwhile doing that at the beginning of winter if you're riding through) but at most it probably only means you only have to do that once a year rather than once every couple of months, and it's probably not worth the time saved.
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Dec 2, 2014 20:28
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getfuct posted:since i'm 100% new to the riding world: Here's a breakdown: Liability covers other peoples' property/medical when you wreck into them. I don't think you can get a policy without liability. Get liability and make sure you get a good limit especially if you ever ride 2 up. Collision covers your bike if you crash it into something. Most motorcycle accidents involve a single vehicle (the motorcycle). Get collision. Comprehensive covers your bike if somebody backs into it and puts it on the ground, or steals it, etc. It can be pretty easy to total or steal a bike while you aren't riding it. Get comp. Gap covers the difference between what your bike is "worth" and how much you owe so you don't end up with a totaled bike and a couple grand still financed after the insurance payout. A financed bike, as mentioned, might require gap insurance as a condition for credit approval. I don't know about gap. Seems pretty Las Vegas to me. Avoid needing it if possible. Two other coverages: Short-term disability. AFLAC. Pays you like 60% of your salary if you get injured and cannot work. Might be able to get it through work. Might already have it. Roadside assistance. If you're brave enough go very far past your cul-de-sac, this can be real useful. I've used it for a 160 mile tow that would have cost me like $400 otherwise. It's like $30/year for me attached to my 4-bike Progressive policy.
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Dec 2, 2014 20:29
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Everything Clutchpuck said. Motorcycle insurance is so cheap compared to auto insurance that you'd be a complete nimrod for not getting as much coverage as you can reasonably afford. Don't go cheap on it. It's a lot easier for your bike to be damaged (whether it's you making a mistake or some jackhole nudging it over in a parking lot) and for you to be damaged. Could someone who has a policyholder that covers gear sing out? I think maybe it's State Farm that definitely does? Something like up to $3k in gear, iirc. I have Progressive that covers two non-liter bikes. I think it's about $600 a year. It's up in March, so I think I'll be switching to State Farm if they do cover gear.
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Dec 2, 2014 20:41
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Lynza posted:Could someone who has a policyholder that covers gear sing out? I think maybe it's State Farm that definitely does? Something like up to $3k in gear, iirc. I think Halo_4am posted in the crash thread about his wreck and gear replacement with State Farm....let me see if I can dig it up (and if I'm remembering correctly). Edit - Nope, I was wrong, he has Allstate. Double Edit - Here's the post, so it looks like it's covered by Allstate Halo_4am posted:I fell over (details to follow in the crash thread) but fortunately the insurance covers gear. Boots and lid are smoked, but the jacket, gloves, and overpants are fine but I'm replacing the pads... I guess I did more bouncing than sliding. americanzero4128 fucked around with this message at 21:18 on Dec 2, 2014 |
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Dec 2, 2014 21:14
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So I found I can mount K1 GSXR600 throttle bodies to a Bandit 1200 / GSXR 1100 motor with little modification. For those of you who have converted to EFI, what is the most reasonable place to mount a trigger wheel and MAP sensor? It's between megasquirting my car and microsquirting my bike and I think my bike is a better test dummy for this project than my daily.  Somebody on a stock gsxr 1100 motor was capable of making 135whp on a rich EFI tune using busa computers and fuel pump. I think with a 1216 bore kit and 750 cams I could do at least 150whp and 110q with better fuel and spark control.
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Dec 2, 2014 21:17
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Lynza posted:Motorcycle insurance is so cheap compared to auto insurance that you'd be a complete nimrod for not getting as much coverage as you can reasonably afford. 
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Dec 2, 2014 21:22
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Armchair Calvinist posted:So I found I can mount K1 GSXR600 throttle bodies to a Bandit 1200 / GSXR 1100 motor with little modification. For those of you who have converted to EFI, what is the most reasonable place to mount a trigger wheel and MAP sensor? It's between megasquirting my car and microsquirting my bike and I think my bike is a better test dummy for this project than my daily. How are you going to handle fuel pressure? I assume the standard Bandit carbs are gravity-fed?
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Dec 2, 2014 21:28
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MAP would be in your airbox, or if you don't have one you can pull vac off of each throttle body and pipe them into a little 'vacuum chamber'. Otherwise, you could use like five vacuum sensors - one for each cylinder, plus a barometric pressure sensor. Use the vac signal that is highest for a given moment as your MAP input... then you also have your barometric sensor for dealing with altitude changes. As far as the trigger wheel - your bike has one somewhere for the stock computer. The solution is using TunerStudio to figure out how it reads. I've been wanting to Megasquirt my E30 but it's got the 88 pin Bosch ECU that there is no current PNP for and I don't want to hack my stock harness / I don't have the electronics background to design a board to convert the stock ECU connector to Megasquirt. Don't turn your DD into a project mess, and all. Maybe when I engine swap the thing or pick up another car. S50B32 individual throttle bodies fit on the M42B18 - would be cool just for the project and sound. clutchpuck posted:How are you going to handle fuel pressure? I assume the standard Bandit carbs are gravity-fed? Lynza posted:Motorcycle insurance is so cheap compared to auto insurance that you'd be a complete nimrod for not getting as much coverage as you can reasonably afford. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Dec 2, 2014 |
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Dec 2, 2014 21:29
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That's lame. My normal insurance (house, car) doesn't even cover motorcycles. When I called they acted like I asked if they could add special "injury due to acts with livestock" coverage. So I have Progressive just for motorcycle insurance.
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Dec 2, 2014 21:56
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Re: Gear Insurance from Allstate "With Allstate, your policy automatically comes with $1,000 worth of coverage on after-market upgrades. You can buy extra coverage up to $30,000." *edit* I actually use progressive and I noticed they have quote:Custom Parts or Equipment (CPE) Coverage I just asked a rep and Progressive also covers $1000 worth of gear if you have some form of collision coverage for the bike itself. In my case if I added collision/comprehensive it would have been automatic $3000 worth of gear coverage for whatever reason, that's what I paid for the drat bike but whatever. Gillingham fucked around with this message at 22:32 on Dec 2, 2014 |
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Dec 2, 2014 22:03
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Armchair Calvinist posted:So I found I can mount K1 GSXR600 throttle bodies to a Bandit 1200 / GSXR 1100 motor with little modification. For those of you who have converted to EFI, what is the most reasonable place to mount a trigger wheel and MAP sensor? It's between megasquirting my car and microsquirting my bike and I think my bike is a better test dummy for this project than my daily. My hero! BlackMK4 posted:MAP would be in your airbox, or if you don't have one you can pull vac off of each throttle body and pipe them into a little 'vacuum chamber'. Otherwise, you could use like five vacuum sensors - one for each cylinder, plus a barometric pressure sensor. Use the vac signal that is highest for a given moment as your MAP input... then you also have your barometric sensor for dealing with altitude changes. Wouldn't the best way be to just mount an electric in-line pump between the TB's and tank? The pump gets gravity fed from the factory tap. Also, I've seen a 2002 with an M42 converted to twin side-draughts and a homebrew ignition setup. Sounded like death.
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Dec 2, 2014 22:07
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BlackMK4 posted:MAP would be in your airbox, or if you don't have one you can pull vac off of each throttle body and pipe them into a little 'vacuum chamber'. Otherwise, you could use like five vacuum sensors - one for each cylinder, plus a barometric pressure sensor. Use the vac signal that is highest for a given moment as your MAP input... then you also have your barometric sensor for dealing with altitude changes. I think the issue is having MS figure out cam position. I'd have to do more research since I'm only familiar with my car's particular motor. Here's how somebody did it on another forum: http://ecuhacking.activeboard.com/t41688286/fuel-injected-1127/?page=1#comment-41766059 Mafoose has done MS on his 240 and owns BMWs. I have a spare wiring harness for my 240 that I plan on using for the connectors and am simply taking the new MS wiring and tracing it over my existing harness to get a feel for where things should go. If you can do it this way, it's not that bad at all. The tools will run you the most money, though, for sure. I met with one of the developers for MS3 in San Diego a few weeks ago (Gross Polluter / Nick) and had a great chat and honestly it doesn't seem as hard as I was making it out to be. Slavvy posted:My hero! 
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Dec 2, 2014 22:30
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Armchair Calvinist posted:I think the issue is having MS figure out cam position. I'd have to do more research since I'm only familiar with my car's particular motor. I'm sure I'll get bored and dive in soon. I'm not worried about the wiring part, I'm more worried about having to design circuits to deal with firing the coil or drive the speedometer.Slavvy posted:My hero! My 2000 R1 has an electric fuel pump and it's carbed. I don't really know poo poo about carbs and I avoid them at all possible so I assumed his bike already had an electric fuel pump but was lower pressure. As far as the M42... the 1UZFE is lighter than a F20C and cheap as gently caress....
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Dec 2, 2014 22:35
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Carbs are full of voodoo. the pump that your R1 has is just a simple bi-diaphram with a coil and driver. EFI pumps are a bit more involved, and have much much higher operating pressure. I have a set of 03 R6TBs and the Map sensor is tied across the intake side using vacuum tubing. I've used a koso cluster before that used the sproket bolts with a hall effect for the speedometer.
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Dec 2, 2014 22:39
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cursedshitbox posted:
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Dec 2, 2014 22:59
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BlackMK4 posted:Mafoose lives like 140mi from me and offered to help, I just hate asking for help with poo poo. Yeah efi pumps are 40-60 PSI. Every bike carb pump I've seen is was either a simple back-and-forth diaphragm design or a simple rotating worm screw thingy design. They're only there to push the fuel uphill to the carbs because most of it sits lower than the carbs themselves. Pretty sure a 1UZ in a 2002 would turn the entire car into a pretzel Does MS need cam position? Can't you just run wasted spark + banked injectors?
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Dec 3, 2014 00:31
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clutchpuck posted:Here's a breakdown: Good advice, but for many of us collision is hilariously expensive. That '05 FZ6 I paid 3200 for? About 1k/yr for collision alone. Also Aflac has yet to pay any of my co-workers who have tried to use it, so good luck with that if you have them through work like me. Marxalot fucked around with this message at 03:04 on Dec 3, 2014 |
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Dec 3, 2014 02:54
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hot sauce posted:Is bike bandit the cheapest place to buy OEM parts? The PO for my 599 has smooth metal grips on it and my hands slip off, so they need to be replaced pronto. Don't buy from Bike Bandit, you may or may not get your parts. Also, grips are easy to pick up from just about anywhere (except a Harley shop, diameter will be wrong!). You probably don't need to replace the throttle tube, just cut off the old grips and put new, better ones on. Glue or hairspray so they don't fall off. Safety wire for that racey feel.
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Dec 3, 2014 22:11
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Dielectric posted:Don't buy from Bike Bandit, you may or may not get your parts. Data point: From Bike Bandit in west coast USA to Norway: 36 hours door to door. That's good even for early cold war nuclear retaliation. Your other points stand though. Very cheap grips as well. Hot sauce, just check that the throttle tube works fine (part 9) and cut off the current ones. A thin, stiff piece of steel wire (play the guitar or piano?) can be inserted and pulled around to cut it loose. When you glue the grips back on, don't worry about the left one. It's nice when you're tired after riding a long way and at least one of the grips can adapt to your stiffening shoulders without the hand letting go. You can also trick kids into revving your bike without risking the rev limit.
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Dec 3, 2014 22:57
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Marxalot posted:Good advice, but for many of us collision is hilariously expensive. That '05 FZ6 I paid 3200 for? About 1k/yr for collision alone. Any financed bike will require it. The trick to avoiding stupid-high collision premium is to pick a bike not a lot of people wad up, get married, or find an insurer who wants your business ($1000/yr for a mild 600 sounds like "we don't want to insure you on this but if you want to pay, I guess we could" money). Get yourself out of the high-risk region of the actuarial tables. I pay like $60/year for collision on the Buell and the wife's R1150 is even less. I'm probably like twice your age though.
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Dec 4, 2014 01:03
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clutchpuck posted:Any financed bike will require it. Unless you paid for it with nine credit cards! Which people do! And then went on "ride of the century" and crashed it! As you did last year! Which your underwriter called "ka-ching of the century!" and the financial press will call "an obvious pass-the-buck scam..well, they've got the legal poo poo sorted by now, no problem for those who aren't bailed out, it's not really a scam in the legal sense" of the century.
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Dec 4, 2014 01:12
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Ha. I forgot to include my "buy it with a credit card!" anecdote. I did that a few years ago, insured it though. There were a couple advantages: I wasn't stuck with a bank-owned title so it was easy to trade for a better bike when the opportunity came along, and the card's interest rate was considerably lower than I could get for a traditional motorcycle loan. I was gonna finance it no matter what. Current revolving credit rates would make that a lot less of a good idea though. '09 had some really low rates.
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Dec 4, 2014 01:23
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clutchpuck posted:the card's interest rate was considerably lower than I could get for a traditional motorcycle loan Wha... 
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Dec 4, 2014 01:41
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I didn't mean that clutchpuck actually paid for his bike with nine credit cards or is a bad person! I just meant that this:clutchpuck posted:the card's interest rate was considerably lower than I could get for a traditional motorcycle loan means that World War 3, inevitably, is happening quite soon and pretty much along the same power structures as the two previous ones and I hope we all are friends throughout. Best of luck all!
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Dec 4, 2014 01:58
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It's ok, the guy who sold me the brand new bike looked at me like I had an extra nose.
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Dec 4, 2014 04:41
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New bike problem emerged recently: It sounds and feels like it's running on 3 cylinders (bit of a lope at idle too). Oddly, this started after changing the main jets, but I'm 99% positive that has nothing to do with it. It's a 1997 Yamaha FZR600R with ~30k miles on it and VERY clean. I replaced the plugs and checked the wires by using one of the old plugs and checking for spark on each one (grounded to engine). All worked fine, though one of the banks seemed to be blue blue blue orange blue blue blue blue blue orange, etc. I also checked the stator for dirt or grime on the contacts and it was very clean. My best guess is one of the coils is failing. Is it possible for a coil to fail intermittently? The bike starts great every time, too.
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Dec 4, 2014 05:24
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Did you do a valve adjustment on it recently? Mine had around 17k on it when I checked the valves and 5 intakes had negative clearance. I was unlucky and ended up with three burned valves after the adjustment (and a track day on the already leaky ones) but from what I read most are ok once you get then in spec.
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Dec 4, 2014 05:52
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Bugdrvr posted:Did you do a valve adjustment on it recently? Mine had around 17k on it when I checked the valves and 5 intakes had negative clearance. No. I believe the valves were last checked at 24k.
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Dec 4, 2014 06:18
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