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M42 posted:The side mount looks less nerdy than a chin bar? Hmm, OK. Who said that? Not sure what you're talking about. clutchpuck posted:At least we can agree that any helmet cam screams "I have a Youtube account and I know how to use it!" I think there's probably more people recording for liability purposes than vloggers out there.
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Apr 24, 2015 20:33
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That's exactly why my wife started using one. If she had one last year when she got hit, odds were good that at least we could get a make and model of the shitbag that left her knocked out on the pavement.
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Apr 24, 2015 20:45
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Radbot posted:I think there's probably more people recording for liability purposes than vloggers out there. This, I rarely ever even look at the footage unless there's some idiot who almost killed me that I can share on streamable or something.
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Apr 24, 2015 20:52
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Collateral Damage posted:Contour Roam 2 or 3 is said to be good if you can live without 60 fps. No LCD though. Roam 2 does 60fps (but only at 720p). Drift have almost as low profile as the Contour but much better image quality, especially in low light - replaceable battery and external mic socket are nice touches too. Nostalgia4Dicks posted:Is there no longer a camera/video thread? http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?noseen=0&threadid=3223561 is the Helmet cam thread. Again the Drift has an LCD screen, so you've other options than GoPro and Contour.
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Apr 24, 2015 20:53
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I have a 2003 Honda 919 with an electrical issue. Previous owner chopped off the fender and converted the tail light to work as turn signals. Everything works and always has, though there is the annoying issue I have where holding the brakes increases the flashing rate. When this is done the rear signals are flashing fast enough to make it appear as if it's more oscillating than flashing. My plan is to get a tail light from customLED which look great, but until then I have an issue. The left signal flashing rate is sped up no matter if I have brakes applied or not. The issue is also intermittent and doesn't appear to be relative to anything. I pulled the harness from the frame and found something called a Hopkins Tail Light Converter wired in between the tail light and turn signal wiring. There were no exposed wires or shorts visible. Where the hell do I even begin in diagnosing this issue? I have a multimeter. Once I get that issue fixed, how can I fix the flashing rate increasing when the brakes are applied? Is there something I can pick up at Autozone to wire in for this?
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Apr 24, 2015 21:29
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Angryboot posted:Also no noticeable wind drag when it's on the chin bar. All white outfit with a puke green helmet, dork. 
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Apr 24, 2015 21:32
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astrollinthepork posted:I have a 2003 Honda 919 with an electrical issue. Previous owner chopped off the fender and converted the tail light to work as turn signals. Everything works and always has, though there is the annoying issue I have where holding the brakes increases the flashing rate. When this is done the rear signals are flashing fast enough to make it appear as if it's more oscillating than flashing. Are they twin-filament bulbs or single-filament? If the former then it's the extra juice going to the brake lights through the indicator relay causing it to speed up. You can get solid-state flasher relays to fix that (and that would be a really good idea if you're using LED tail lights anyway).
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Apr 24, 2015 21:35
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Chichevache posted:All white outfit with a puke green helmet, dork. Puke green = best green
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Apr 24, 2015 21:40
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Speaking as a mechanical engineer: what the gently caress is up with the numbers on motor oil? I know that the first one is winter/cold viscosity, the second one is hot viscosity. But it seems backwards to me.Wikipedia posted:The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) has established a numerical code system for grading motor oils according to their viscosity characteristics. SAE viscosity gradings include the following, from low to high viscosity: 0, 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 40, 50 or 60. ^^^Okay, higher number means higher viscosity. Makes sense. But then... Wikipedia posted:The SAE designation for multi-grade oils includes two viscosity grades; for example, 10W-30 designates a common multi-grade oil. The first number '10W' is the viscosity of the oil at cold temperature and the second number is the viscosity at 100 °C (212 °F). ^^^b...but... the viscosity of a liquid decreases with increasing temperature, so how is the second number higher than the first?  help fix my brain
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Apr 24, 2015 21:43
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Are they twin-filament bulbs or single-filament? If the former then it's the extra juice going to the brake lights through the indicator relay causing it to speed up. You can get solid-state flasher relays to fix that (and that would be a really good idea if you're using LED tail lights anyway). Yes they are dual filament. Is there a specific relay I need or are they mostly universal. I can't order anything online atm so I need something I can get at an auto parts store. astrollinthepork fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Apr 24, 2015 |
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Apr 24, 2015 21:51
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alnilam posted:Speaking as a mechanical engineer: what the gently caress is up with the numbers on motor oil? I know that the first one is winter/cold viscosity, the second one is hot viscosity. But it seems backwards to me. I think that the answer is basically that the wikipedia article is poorly written (big surprise!). This article goes into a bit more detail: http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/ Basically, the number rating on the bottle is a rating, not a viscosity measure.
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Apr 24, 2015 22:21
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Radbot posted:Why the chin bar, versus a side or top mount? Perspective. Chin mounts are pretty close to your actual POV whereas top mounts look like the camera is on a pole 3 foot above your head and the side mounts usually include a bit of helmet and show more of one side than the other. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anyeLkpcFzE Nostalgia4Dicks posted:A gopro on the helmet is just too ridiculous for me though. Like the guy In here that mounted it on his chin area. A contour maybe. You know the camera records the stuff in front of, not you right?
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Apr 24, 2015 22:28
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revmoo posted:So how important is checking fasteners on my new 300 for its first service? I have to basically pull all the fairings off the bike to check stuff like engine mounts. Would the dealership even bother? As a fellow 300 rider, FOR THE LOVE OF GOD TAKE PICTURES OR MAKE SOME KIND OF NOTE AS TO WHERE ALL THE FASTENERS CAME FROM (if you pull the plastics/fairing). There are a shitload of them, and some work where they don't actually go. Lynza fucked around with this message at 23:24 on Apr 24, 2015 |
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Apr 24, 2015 23:21
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Lynza posted:If you have a local area where you're not going to have to worry about dodging other people (in vehicles, walking, whatever), I'd start there. Just get familiar with the bike, get comfortable, and then get more adventurous. But if you haven't ridden in a long time, and the bike is new to you, just take it easy and get used to it for a few days or a week or whatever before you decide to ride to Yellowstone. A buddy of mine who rides said I shouldn't even sit on the bike without having gloves, boots, pants, and a helmet. I'm not sure I want to drop upwards of $800 (excluding the helmet) for something I may never really get into. He also said a 5mph crash can kill me. Is he trying to "scare me straight"? or should I not listen to anything he says until I know if I even like riding this loving deathtrap around.
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Apr 25, 2015 00:50
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With an attitude like that, I'd just suggest you sell it before you do end up killing yourself due to a lack of respect for the machine and the gear involved in riding it. You're not going to die because you sat on it without gloves on, but I'm certain that everybody here will recommend you wear the gear any time you're going to ride. Go get a thick coat, two pairs of jeans, some boots and garden gloves, ride around your block once or twice, see if you like it? The reality is, it's a dangerous thing to do and you are not in total control of the circumstances that can cause an accident because XX amount of time it's someone else's fault. The only thing you can do is mitigate that risk by being a responsible rider and wearing the gear that will help keep you out of a bodybag.
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Apr 25, 2015 01:08
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SaNChEzZ posted:With an attitude like that, I'd just suggest you sell it before you do end up killing yourself due to a lack of respect for the machine and the gear involved in riding it. You're not going to die because you sat on it without gloves on, but I'm certain that everybody here will recommend you wear the gear any time you're going to ride. Go get a thick coat, two pairs of jeans, some boots and garden gloves, ride around your block once or twice, see if you like it? If I didn't have respect for the machine/understand it was dangerous, then I wouldn't be asking you and anybody else I can all of these questions. I'd be on the thing right now without a helmet trying to pull sick wheelies. I know that the most dangerous thing on the road for bikers are the other cars, and because of that you have to have your poo poo straight and keep your head on a swivel. But there is a difference between "be careful, poo poo happens fast" and "you're riding towards your own grave." I'm trying to find the best way for me to: 1. re-learn how to ride again 2. See if it's the right thing for me 3. Not be stuck with a bunch of useless gear I spent shitloads of money on if it turns out I don't like it. I'm not saying "gently caress all gear forever." But will jeans, a jacket, work boots, mechanix gloves, helmet be enough for now? If I like riding, then gently caress yeah I'll take all of the safety tests and buy the proper gear. I'm sorry if my attitude is worrying but when half the people you talk to say "just ride it around, don't go on the highway" and the other half say "This is the most dangerous thing you will ever undertake, go buy all of this armour. You're probably still going to die." It's kind of tough to tell what the correct course is.
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Apr 25, 2015 01:30
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It's not really spending money on gear to ride. It's spending money to protect your body part if and when you make an unplanned vigorous dismount. Hospitals and ambulence rides cost way way way more than the 800 bucks you spend on gear. If the money's a concern for now, do you have anybody you can borrow gear from for a short while? More edit: have you taken an msf course yet? Great way to find out whether you wanna ride or not with 250 bucks or so, and they provide helmets. Angryboot fucked around with this message at 01:34 on Apr 25, 2015 |
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Apr 25, 2015 01:31
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I'm firmly in the "garden variety gloves, long sleeves, jeans and boots if you're riding on dirt trails" camp, but if you're going to gently caress around on the street (or, god help you, enduro) you seriously need some better armor. Borrow a helmet, go search a thrift shop, whatever, then ride the thing around some dirt paths or around your yard. Anywhere offroad, but not too bumpy and lovely. Do you feel unstable, generally out of control and unhappy? Bikes aren't for you. Throw your poo poo into a box for a rainy day when you need to do some combat gardening. Do you feel unstable, generally out of control but have a huge poo poo-eating grin on your face and and are yelling "THIS loving OWNS" in your helmet? Buy good gear and join the hivemind. We have such things to show you. 
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Apr 25, 2015 01:33
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Alternatively crash into a mailbox and see if that scares you enough to never do it again
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Apr 25, 2015 01:33
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Ripoff posted:
This sums up my commute every day. Join us.
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Apr 25, 2015 01:36
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Angryboot posted:It's not really spending money on gear to ride. It's spending money to protect your body part if and when you make an unplanned vigorous dismount. Hospitals and ambulence rides cost way way way more than the 800 bucks you spend on gear. I live in Canada. Hospitals are free. Not an excuse, just wanted to point that out. Ripoff posted:I'm firmly in the "garden variety gloves, long sleeves, jeans and boots if you're riding on dirt trails" camp, but if you're going to gently caress around on the street (or, god help you, enduro) you seriously need some better armor. The helmet I have (Fly Trekker DS) already, What kind of jacket is best? Most of the jackets are nylon rain jackets or wind breakers. I might have an old leather one kicking around somewhere. Riding around in my yard is fine, it's about 2 acres but it's all grass and slopey. The street I live on is out of the way, a dead end, and the only other people on the road are the 6 other houses on this street. So when you say "gently caress around on the street" do you mean like a normal street with normal traffic flow? Or do you mean "any paved surface"?
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Apr 25, 2015 01:46
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You should be ok dicking around on a cul-de-sac in fashion leathers at slow speed, just remember that asphalt is a very abrasive surface and try not to go too fast unless you don't like your skin.
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Apr 25, 2015 02:03
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Borrow some gear or find some last year's clearance. If you have orv areas in your area, that is a good safeish place to gently caress around.
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Apr 25, 2015 02:07
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cursedshitbox posted:This sums up my commute every day. My commute is please don't kill me please don't kill me please don't kill me. We must live in different cities. In between I'm road raging at cars, screaming nonsense in my helmet, and telling people to gently caress themselves after they almost park their escalade on me in traffic with no remorse.
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Apr 25, 2015 02:11
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Yo don't sperg out about it, if you're just putting around the cul de sac all you need is jeans, gloves and a helmet.
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Apr 25, 2015 02:13
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Minkee posted:My commute is please don't kill me please don't kill me please don't kill me. We must live in different cities. In between I'm road raging at cars, screaming nonsense in my helmet, and telling people to gently caress themselves after they almost park their escalade on me in traffic with no remorse. The bay area. Razzled posted:Yo don't sperg out about it, if you're just putting around the cul de sac all you need is jeans, gloves and a helmet. Pretty much this. when I got my first bike I had a cheap helmet, mechanic gloves, steel toe boots, and a textile jacket. but I rode the fucker around only in the storage facilities lot.
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Apr 25, 2015 02:16
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nsaP posted:Perspective. Chin mounts are pretty close to your actual POV whereas top mounts look like the camera is on a pole 3 foot above your head and the side mounts usually include a bit of helmet and show more of one side than the other. This is why I use it on my chin mount. Plus I get no wind drag at all from it. And don't really notice the added weight.
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Apr 25, 2015 02:21
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Why do people act like jeans, converse, gardening gloves, and a fashionable cafe racer jacket is offering them anymore protection than being naked. Let's be real here "OH MAN WHAT A SQUID" *zooms away in skinny jeans and a hoodie* Yo gear is pretty cheap on Craigslist just saying
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Apr 25, 2015 02:24
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Nostalgia4Dicks posted:Why do people act like jeans, converse, gardening gloves, and a fashionable cafe racer jacket is offering them anymore protection than being naked. Let's be real here Skinny jeans keep my cock from getting sunburned.
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Apr 25, 2015 03:50
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Nostalgia4Dicks posted:
Also on clearance. I got a nice Alpinestars leather jacket on clearance for a whopping $150 (marked down from about $360).
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Apr 25, 2015 04:00
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Is there an acceptable replacement for the crush gasket between the mufflers and the headers? edit: That is, an alternative to the stock one if there isn't one anywhere in town and I need it real fast? Would exhaust wrap work? HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 04:53 on Apr 25, 2015 |
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Apr 25, 2015 04:46
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MustardFacial posted:I live in Canada. Hospitals are free. Not an excuse, just wanted to point that out. Sounds like where I live. High-five! Yeah, honestly, your friend is trying to scare you straight. Believe me, you will start noticing what people are wearing (or not wearing) a lot more than you do now, and you will be amazed at seeing some dumbass wearing jeans, a t-shirt, and a brain bucket going 90 down the highway. But for now, not going very fast, not likely to be hit by a truck or something, long pants, long shirt/jacket, some leather gloves, and good sturdy boots are fine for tooling around and getting a feel for stuff.
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Apr 25, 2015 05:19
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Some car dealer told my mom (when she was concerned about safety test results on a particular vehicle), "How many accidents are you planning on getting into?" Which is, of course, idiotic, as he should have said, "Into how many accidents are you planning on getting?" When I first started out I felt unstable and cumbersome on my bike, and I frequently wondered if I would ever feel as comfortable and at home on a motorcycle as I do on a mountain bike or in a car (where I feel safest of all; I can lock all my doors; it's the only way to live). After a few weeks of commuting every day, I feel perfectly natural on my little bike. So, if you feel awkward and uncomfortable at first, it may pass. Then you'll realize it was the best decision you've ever made. Aside from deciding to get married.
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Apr 25, 2015 18:21
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I remember when I signed up for the MSF. I had zero experience on a motorcycle at that point. I loved it, and picked out a bike, but as I was taking the course, I kept worrying that I'd basically agreed to buy a bike, and what if I hated riding? Well, 15k miles later, I actually like riding more every time I ride. It just gets better because you get better at it, and it's fun and the bike becomes an extension of you. So, it's awesome, and you should give it a chance. It will definitely not be easy to start, but it's worth it.
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Apr 25, 2015 21:20
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Lynza posted:It just gets better because you get better at it, and it's fun and the bike becomes an extension of you.
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Apr 26, 2015 01:46
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cursedshitbox posted:The bay area. Close, its the same assholes. They just moved to Austin, TX.
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Apr 26, 2015 03:33
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Minkee posted:Close, its the same assholes. They just moved to Austin, TX. Goddamn if that ain't true.
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Apr 26, 2015 04:28
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MustardFacial posted:A buddy of mine who rides said I shouldn't even sit on the bike without having gloves, boots, pants, and a helmet. I'm not sure I want to drop upwards of $800 (excluding the helmet) for something I may never really get into. He also said a 5mph crash can kill me. Is he trying to "scare me straight"? or should I not listen to anything he says until I know if I even like riding this loving deathtrap around. Take the MSF--it's only fifty bucks around here, and they provide both a biKe and a helmet to learn on. Also, dunno what shipping to the land of Canada is like, but if you're looking for cheap gear to start out with, Iron Pony usually has the finest in Pakistani leather available, usually for the price of a couple of happy meals. Unless you have the coin, you can easily get away with spending less than 200$ on your first set of halfway decent gear. Then again, it's Canada, so you won't be bankrupted for life by your first rear end flesh to face transplant.... soooooo... in other words, feel free to ignore everyone!
Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 13:57 on Apr 26, 2015 |
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Apr 26, 2015 13:53
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Not to sound like a smug rear end in a top hat, but if you aren't willing to spend money on gear you might want to reconsider the idea of riding a motorcycle. It only takes one mistake to ruin the rest of your life. Also it doesn't cost 800 dollars for gear if you're willing to start out with cheaper gear. My first gear that I bought fresh out of msf - Lazer Helmet - 29.99 on ebay Mesh Jacket - 89 dollars on sale at cycle gear (would have been cheaper on ebay) Mesh Pants - 24 dollars (same ones for my jacket on ebay) Leather Gloves - 12 Boots - 25 (close out boots at CG at the bottom of a pile) $178 dollars US seems like a cheap investment to keep my knees, skin, and brain in tact. Seriously consider used gear, look at 2nd hand thrift stores, and shop close out sites/ebay. I wasn't sure if I wanted to invest the money either, but it was worth while to get me through that first year to make the decision on if I even liked to ride or not. Most goons here will tell you not to buy the garbage at cycle gear, but I have to say that having lovely armored boots is better than you wearing sneakers or fashion boots on a motorcycle.
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Apr 26, 2015 16:25
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I'm tearing my hair out trying to do my first chain/wheel adjustment on my 300. I did it yesterday and it looked good, doing equal turns on each side etc etc. When I took it for a drive today there was a TON of chain noise so I immediately turned around and put it on the stand to have a look. The problem I'm having is that nothing matches up--the only way I can get my motion pro chain alignment tool and chain tension set correctly is if I crank the left adjuster (chain side) tight and leave the right side so completely loose that I can grab the wheel and move the wheel on that side. Nothing is matching up, not the swingarm marks, not the threads on the adjuster rods, nothing. Is it ok to have one side so loose you can move the wheel with your hand (before tightening the axle nut)? I've totally loosened everything up and tried to start from the beginning several times over and over and nothing seems to be working. Can someone ELI5 how to do a rear wheel alignment and chain tension from scratch? I've scoured the internet and looked through the factory shop manual and every guide seems to be based upon the understanding that your poo poo is already zeroed to begin with. My poo poo is completely 100% off and I need to start from the beginning. I'm not worried about string alignment poo poo I just need to figure out the process for setting the initial alignment/tension. I think I can figure it out from there.
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Apr 26, 2015 17:43
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