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Unibrow posted:Depending on how many pieces you were able to recover, and if you're able to get all the pieces back together with superglue, then you might be able to just wrap the busted sintra in a layer or two of fiberglass cloth to reinforce it. I'll take pictures this afternoon when I get home from work. 3 of the 4 pieces cracked in half in at least one spot. The 4th one has tears near one of the bolt points. How flexible will the resin be? I don't need it to be very flexible, but it's gotta bend at least a little bit so I can tighten it onto my leg with the straps.
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May 1, 2015 14:09
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neogeo0823 posted:So, yesterday, I tried walking on my stilts for the first time. It was going pretty well, but I got literally my last step for that attempt and put too much weight on my heel and fell backwards. I managed to twist sideways before hitting the ground, so I didn't fall flat on my back, but on my side. I'm perfectly fine, but the stilts are not. All of the sintra shattered, and the knee joints of the left stilt are bent out of shape. While I think I can bend them back decently well, that's $65 worth of sintra down the drain, and I have no desire to buy that much more. Can you show us what shape you need the sintra to make?
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May 1, 2015 14:47
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Tamir Lenk posted:Can you show us what shape you need the sintra to make? I can take pictures later, but you can see the original images from the instructable here, in steps 3 and 6. It's the parts that go around the legs, not the feet. Basically, its a very vaguely H and U shaped pieces that are then heat-molded around my shins and thighs respectively.
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May 1, 2015 14:59
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neogeo0823 posted:I can take pictures later, but you can see the original images from the instructable here, in steps 3 and 6. It's the parts that go around the legs, not the feet. Basically, its a very vaguely H and U shaped pieces that are then heat-molded around my shins and thighs respectively. You could make those from sheet aluminum, and then back the pieces with some foam liner (the kind you put in the bottom of a toolchest drawer). That would be light, strong, and the foam would keep the metal off your legs/clothing. You'd have to shape them to fit your leg, but the shelf lining would give you some margin of error.
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May 1, 2015 15:17
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McPantserton posted:Dude, KILLER job on Ultron! Thanks! And congrats on winning the competition! Your costume looks spectacular on stage!  Just cranked these 2 guys out today for Star Wars weekend! We'll be wearing them for a big road trip to Legoland this weekend.
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May 1, 2015 19:44
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neogeo0823 posted:I'll take pictures this afternoon when I get home from work. 3 of the 4 pieces cracked in half in at least one spot. The 4th one has tears near one of the bolt points. How flexible will the resin be? I don't need it to be very flexible, but it's gotta bend at least a little bit so I can tighten it onto my leg with the straps. Fiberglassed resin is extremely rigid and strong. It doesn't flex much. Also, if you can try to find an epoxy resin, not a polyester resin. Polyester resin is what Bondo and "fiberglass" resin is, as it cures it off gasses styrene. It's extremely strong smelling and you really need a respirator with an organic vapor cartridge to breath near it. I use SmoothOn Epoxamite for my fiberglassing, very low odor and works with fiberglass very well. Get the medium cure though if you do get it, I've had the fast cook in my cup before I managed to use it all a couple times. If you're doing it outside and with a respirator I suppose it really doesn't matter. I do all this in my apartment/balcony though, so odors are a concern to make sure I keep the peace with neighbors.
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May 2, 2015 00:54
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So I'm trying to do a somewhat half-assed captain toad cosplay but I'm having a hard time finding the headlamp he wears. Can someone direct me on where I can buy one/a tutorial on how to make one?
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May 2, 2015 19:33
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Honestly, that looks like an LED touch/tap light on a headband.
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May 3, 2015 02:29
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Anyone have experience making hats, specifically tri-corn hats. Hitting a wall on my attempts and I'm getting frustrated with it.
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May 3, 2015 02:55
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here's the damage: I'm pretty sure I picked up the missing piece, but it's not pictured here.  Here you can see the cracks in this piece. There's the obvious one, and then above it a little bit there's what looks like a scratch, but is actually a crack.    This last one is the one undamaged pieces, shown to illustrate the curve of the pieces and sort-of the way the aluminum bent at the knee joints.
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May 3, 2015 03:24
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horchata posted:So I'm trying to do a somewhat half-assed captain toad cosplay but I'm having a hard time finding the headlamp he wears. Can someone direct me on where I can buy one/a tutorial on how to make one? It looks like a small glass headlight. Like a car headlight. Maybe try searching that angle?
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May 3, 2015 05:45
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We did Captain Toad and Toadette! Go search on Amazon for a miner's hat. There'll come up one that you can take apart and paint. I can dig up pictures and links tomorrow maybe.
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May 3, 2015 05:48
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neogeo0823 posted:here's the damage: Have you looked into using Kydex instead?
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May 4, 2015 12:14
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n0tqu1tesane posted:Have you looked into using Kydex instead? No, on the grounds that no one had mentioned it to me. How does it compare to Sintra? Part of the constructions involves t-nuts that bite into the Sintra to lock them in place. Would the Kydex behave similarly?
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May 4, 2015 13:59
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fallin1 posted:Anyone have experience making hats, specifically tri-corn hats. Hitting a wall on my attempts and I'm getting frustrated with it. Yes, I have made a number of hats, including a tricorn. What exactly are you having problems with?
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May 4, 2015 14:47
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Ashcans posted:Yes, I have made a number of hats, including a tricorn. What exactly are you having problems with? I think I was able to figure out my problem, I've been having issues with making the crown portion. When I get home from work I can post pictures of what I have currently.
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May 4, 2015 15:30
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horchata posted:So I'm trying to do a somewhat half-assed captain toad cosplay but I'm having a hard time finding the headlamp he wears. Can someone direct me on where I can buy one/a tutorial on how to make one? 
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May 5, 2015 02:02
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So, I finally got around to looking up kydex, and am I right in seeing that this stuff is really really loving expensive, compared to sintra? I needed 6mm sintra, which is slightly smaller than .250, and 6mm sintra is ~$15/sheet for a 12x24 whereas kydex is at least $110 no matter where I go for the same size sheet. At this point, I'm wondering if I could get away with just having, say, some bands of sintra/sheet metal/whatever rigid material between the bolts on the supports and just tacking on some foam padding I have and calling it a day. I could theoretically buy a single sheet of sintra or sheet aluminum, cut some bands of the right length, mold to shape, and then use those in place and it'd be cheaper than having solid pieces.
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May 5, 2015 02:36
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Yo so here's what you need for a Captain Toad costume. Buy this. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005LVPVJI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Or anything equivalent, Amazon sells a few. You can get that light off there easy, so do it, and paint everything silver. We discovered that some versions of this hat have a switch on the side so that you can turn it on and off. No wiring/LEDs necessary. The switch kind tends to be the one with the 3 LEDs that takes 3 AA batteries. There's a version that takes 2 AA batteries that will totally work, but it doesn't have the rad switch on the side for lighting up the costume. JoAnns sells some sort of trimming in Obnoxious Mario Yellow that works nicely as the strap. Here we are, Toad and Toadetting it up: 
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May 6, 2015 01:12
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neogeo0823 posted:No, on the grounds that no one had mentioned it to me. How does it compare to Sintra? Part of the constructions involves t-nuts that bite into the Sintra to lock them in place. Would the Kydex behave similarly? I didn't make the connection myself until I actually looked at your stilts. Should be fine with the t-nuts, I've seen several holsters made with kydex using similar. I've never used Sintra though, so as far as direct comparison, I couldn't say.
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May 6, 2015 02:34
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Bean posted:Yo so here's what you need for a Captain Toad costume. Holy crap I saw you guys at the Lexington Con. Had no clue you were on here too.
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May 6, 2015 03:05
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neogeo0823 posted:At this point, I'm wondering if I could get away with just having, say, some bands of sintra/sheet metal/whatever rigid material between the bolts on the supports and just tacking on some foam padding I have and calling it a day. How rigid does the material need to be? Would you consider a thick piece of stiff leather?
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May 6, 2015 08:37
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Unibrow posted:How rigid does the material need to be? Would you consider a thick piece of stiff leather? I'm not sure if it needs to be rigid at all. I assume it needs to be rigid enough to keep the supports lined up on the sides of my leg, so that the knee joint can bend properly, etc., but other than that, I don't think it needs to be very rigid at all, just strong enough to hold me up.
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May 6, 2015 13:48
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Totally different from my normal armor but I took the night to do a super quick headband thing to do a late-night comfy Animal Crossing outfit for Anime Central, based on the mayor's assistant Isabelle. Fortunately one of my cosplay friends who's actually good at sewing had time to make me a green gingham vest for it, and everything else will just be purchased or I already had it.   I didn't want to do anything too elaborate because I'm really getting rolling on my Arthas build but I wanted a new easy-to-wear cosplay and I love Animal Crossing more than basically anything.
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May 7, 2015 02:56
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I am working on Max. Here is my grumpy face.
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May 7, 2015 10:24
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Slowly but surely I am transforming into the Lich King and ironically burning off my fingerprints as I go  
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May 10, 2015 01:08
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Meh, who needs fingerprints when you have a bitchin' helmet?
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May 10, 2015 05:25
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rebellion's nearly done! luckily had a buddy of mine who's way more handy thanme help me drill in the insert nuts. I screwed up on inserting hte bottom insert had to be glued and is currently drying. All I have to do i glue down parts of the plastic, do some finishing work on the hilt and then weathering. I should get it done by Anime North. Now to work on the guns, which will hopefully be easier. It's the first time I've ever done a prop so I'm pretty happy about the results.
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May 10, 2015 20:41
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Longtime lurker in this thread, and I'm finally making something that's not renfest related. Here's a wip of my Marceline bass. http://i.imgur.com/rysvtsU.jpg
Cavatica fucked around with this message at 06:03 on May 14, 2015 |
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May 11, 2015 18:19
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Hey Goons, I could really use some sage advice from anyone that has experience with resin. I think I want to do a resin cast for a great axe that I'm making, it has lights embedded in the handle that will be shining through a cracked surface that will be made from shattered PVC glued to the wireframe in the picture below. My current plan is to wrap the handle with saran wrap after the PVC pieces are in place and fill the whole thing with clear or lightly grey resin, but I'm worried about not getting any resin on the outer most pieces and having to sand around PVC, touch up paint, add some sort of coats to the outside because I need eventually get the handle nice and mostly rounded. So I guess what I'm saying is that I will fill it, then manually add coats to the outside to fill in low spots. I'm mostly worried about clarity of the resin at that point, I really want the lights to shine through well. 
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May 12, 2015 19:51
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Cavatica posted:Longtime lurker in this thread, and I'm finally making something that's not renfest related. Here's a wip of my Marceline bass. That image is too drat big for the forums. Please fix, lurker.
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May 13, 2015 00:30
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BlueGhostie posted:Hey Goons, I could really use some sage advice from anyone that has experience with resin. I think I want to do a resin cast for a great axe that I'm making, it has lights embedded in the handle that will be shining through a cracked surface that will be made from shattered PVC glued to the wireframe in the picture below. From what I understand, you should be ok with the plan you have, but I'd REALLY recommend changing up the wiring a bit. Right now the battery is in the top middle, and that is going to be a bitch and a half to change. Unless this is a one time don't need it to work after a while project, I'd move the battery down towards the bottom or towards the top to have some sort of access to it. As long as you use clear resin (duracoat or whatever that "wet coat for tables" stuff is should work) you should be ok. For the edge, you might be better off going with plexiglass or acrylic. Drill your holes (which is gonna be a bitch), but get it polished and then pour rubbing alcohol over it. It'll craze like a motherfucker and be less apt to bend than resin will. The store brand stuff is fine, you don't even need the high % stuff. Hit it with some steel wool to scuff it up a bit and make it translucent vs transparent and you should be cool. Thing about resin to remember, is the poo poo gets hot. Don't overdo it on the coats where you have the saran wrap or it might melt and leak out all over the place.
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May 13, 2015 05:25
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:From what I understand, you should be ok with the plan you have, but I'd REALLY recommend changing up the wiring a bit. Right now the battery is in the top middle, and that is going to be a bitch and a half to change. Unless this is a one time don't need it to work after a while project, I'd move the battery down towards the bottom or towards the top to have some sort of access to it. I'm not too worried about the battery, I am making it replaceable but since it runs on a 9v the middle area is the best fit (also I probably won't ever need to change it based on how long my Mjolnir has held up). I have planned that part out though. Thank you for reminding me about how resin heats up, I totally forgot about that! I guess I'll switch to tinfoil because I was going to wrap the whole base with it and fill the entire handle from the inside out (insulating/securing wiring and adding strength/weight) As for the blade, I planned on using some sort of acrylic or solid plastic piece, I will dremel out a space between the 2 plywood sheets that make the axehead and only the light edge will be visible. I will definitely play with steel wool and rubbing alcohol though, I want a real nice laser-edge effect. Thanks again! You gave me a ton of ideas to work from! 
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May 13, 2015 20:41
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foxatee posted:That image is too drat big for the forums. Please fix, lurker. Better?
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May 14, 2015 06:04
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Cavatica posted:Better? Yes, thank you. Looking forward to updates on that bass and the overall costume. Marceline~
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May 15, 2015 04:30
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I finished a prop I was working on and posted about starting a couple months ago.  More here.
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May 18, 2015 08:57
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I think this is the right spot for this. I am in the early stages of a Macho Man Randy Savage costume. So far I picked up these glasses  and I order a piece of neon yellow vinyl to make the checkered pattern. These leggings  This tank top  which I am going to color the white with the same neons and pattern in the leggings to make it more cohesive. The only part that I am really stuck on is the streamers for the jacket. I know it's a small detail but I want it to look good. I really like the way the streamers look and flow on his jackets. Does anyone know what material that is? Is it just cotton or a jersey (it sort of has that edge curl)   I've seen a few DIY jackets and the streamers didn't sit right, looked too shiny and square. It made the jacket look homemade. This is the type of thing I am trying to avoid. For example, this guys streamers ruined an otherwise really awesome design.  For reference this is the jacket (and hat) that I am basing it off of.  Any help or suggestions are welcome.
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May 19, 2015 15:31
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Hobson posted:The only part that I am really stuck on is the streamers for the jacket. I know it's a small detail but I want it to look good. The way those are curling, they look like lightweight jersey cut into long strips. Get some neon t-shirts and cut them up?
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May 19, 2015 18:55
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rebellion's done in time for anime north. I may have got a bit too heavy on the weathering, but I tried to make the sword reflect all the crazy poo poo that dante goes through in his games. I am glad I am done this thing.
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May 19, 2015 21:07
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Faltion posted:I finished a prop I was working on and posted about starting a couple months ago. 
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May 19, 2015 23:49
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