|
thespaceinvader posted:Ceramite white sucks balls. I've lost two or possibly 3 pots of it in the last 6 months. I really want to look at investing in a full set of non-GW paints. For what it's worth its the only one I've had issues with over the last few years
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 21:58
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 15:39 |
|
|
I know, but  DO NOT GIVE GW MONEY and all that.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 22:04
|
|
|
If you're looking to reinvest in paints, this store is selling the Vallejo Model Color/Model Air 72 paint sets for $150, which is a fairly good deal for those sets. http://www.modelexpo-online.com/weekly_email_specials.asp Put the code DL15 in at the top of the page and it'll reflect when you go to checkout.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 22:14
|
|
|
I like Reaper's paints best, but a lot of that might just be that I'm used to working with it. I know how it acts. In any event, your FLGS should be able to order in non-GW paints and stuff. Maybe not more obscure stuff like Coat D'Arms, but at least Reaper and Vallejo. You just have to wait a bit on it rather than picking it up straight from the store.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 22:15
|
|
|
Reaper paints are just fantastic. I couldn't be more pleased with them every time I try a new bottle.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 22:31
|
|
|
BULBASAUR posted:I airbrush near a window I leave open and use a house fan to blow air from my back towards said window. I hang a towel so it covers my desk and the wall behind and use disposable paper towels ontop of the towel to absorb the paint. Haven't had any issues at all, but I do wear a good respirator and make sure my room ventilates well if I'm spraying oils or varnish. Could you take a pic of this? I'm trying to imagine this setup but can't. Tia.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 22:37
|
|
|
My days of airbrushing commando with no overspray box or anything ended when I found white primer dust on a painted figure I had on my desk.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 22:39
|
|
|
So my Army Painter black and white rattlecans appear to be 100% full of sand. I don't think I'll be buying Army Painter again. Has anyone else had this with their cans?
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 00:40
|
|
|
dmnz posted:So my Army Painter black and white rattlecans appear to be 100% full of sand. Army Painter sprays work a little differently than Krylon and so on. They'll fuzz up if you're not following the instructions on the can. I use a bunch of their sprays for my armies.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 00:43
|
|
|
Hm, now I'm a little worried because I'm about to prime my guys with Army Painter (white). I have some sprues and crap minis to test on though, so I won't actually gently caress up anything important, but it'd be nice to have a primer that isn't super-fiddly.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 00:56
|
|
|
Makes me feel better about the somewhat toothy texture of my preferred spraycan
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 00:57
|
|
|
Oath Thread XXXpostGareth Gobulcoque posted:OATH COMPLETE I thought the two fire familiars that weren't speed painted turned out pretty good.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 00:58
|
|
|
I'm getting a little bit of frosting (?) with the krylon primers when I try to do zenithal, but I don't notice any odd textures when I do a single color of primer. Is that... normal or no? When I first started priming, I tried following the directions on the can exactly (6-8"), and that seemed too close as I was getting some pooling. Then I tried at 10-12" as that's what I saw recommended elsewhere, and the detail looks much cleaner, but after I finish with the white highlights from above the gradient between each color looks frosty, for lack of a better descriptor. Should I go back to ~8" and try shorter passes? edit: I'll just post an actual pic so you all can tell me how lovely my priming job is. Gimme a min.  
Hauki fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Sep 1, 2015 |
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 01:06
|
|
|
Whoever it was that suggested using Magic-Sculpt for the Basius pads; thank you, thank you, thank you. It's so much easier to work than greenstuff and it looks like I'm getting sharper detail too. I can't wait to get these primed and see the difference when they're finished.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 04:11
|
|
|
Does anyone have opinions about spray vs brush-on varnish? I used to use spray varnish, but that's back when I had a craft room and could spray indoors. I could possibly find a place to spray indoors with an extractor and such, but maybe it'd be better to keep it simple and use brush-on. I suppose I could also just get good with aerosol spray varnish.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 07:01
|
|
|
Crossposting now that I finally got these bad boys finished. Going to keep my distance from black armor for a while.Lord Hypnostache posted:Finally finished my squad of Deathwatch (counts as Sternguard). Hopefully I'll get to field them before Space Marines get a new codex, I started painting Space Marines slightly before the previous Codex was released and didn't get to play with them once.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 08:08
|
|
|
Chill la Chill posted:For those of you guys who airbrush at home, what's your setup look like? I'm hoping a basic box and newspapers is fine for purely airbrushing water based paints and that I don't need an extractor. I did buy a respirator with OG/AV P100 which might be overkill but whatever it's cheap. Ideally I want something small I can place on my small table in my apartment. First of all, no respirator is overkill. Protect your lungs. I started with a simple cardboard box, which does stop overspray from getting on the wall you're spraying against, but if you're spraying at 25+ psi the paint particles just blow back out and get on you (and your models, and desk, etc., as someone else pointed out). Then I moved to an old collapsible crate that I cut a hole into and put a bathroom extractor fan in. This was a tiny bit better but the fan just wasn't strong enough. Then I got the fold-up airbrush booth that many people post, you can get it on Amazon, ebay, etc. - I found it works OK but again the fan isn't strong enough when you're spraying at high pressures, and it was also too small for some of the other projects I do, which is mostly RC cars - think of something twice as large as a 40K Bastion and you get the idea, plus you're basically spraying the inside of a bowl when doing that so you have to be able to rotate the RC body quite a lot inside the spray booth. So I built my own out of sheets of plastic...but it's starting to come apart so I'm going to remake it with corrugated plastic sheeting. I think the real trick to making a decent spray booth is to have baffling at the back of it to prevent backdrafts of paint coming back out of it, or at least to minimize the air blowing back out. For my latest booth I used strips of plastic bent into an L-shape to trap the air behind it, like this:  Then behind that kitchen vent hood fabric and then the bathroom exhaust fan. Unfortunately for my current spray booth it's all held together with duct tape, and it's started to come apart, necessitating the latest redesign. I'm also going to put L-shaped strips along the top, bottom and sides of the new version of the spray booth to help keep overspray to a minimum. I use thin plastic sheets over WIP stuff so paint dust doesn't land on them. You don't have to do anything this 'complex' (quotes there because it is really just a complicated hack job) if you're not airbrushing very often but this is for a fairly permanent installation - at least, as permanent as you can get in rented accommodation. The fold-up spray booth does work OK for scale & wargaming, just keep in mind the air pressure/back blast if you're spraying at higher than 25psi, and replacement foam is hard to find (I used motorcycle radiator filter foam but it's a bit too dense I think).
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 10:56
|
|
|
Avenging Dentist posted:Hm, now I'm a little worried because I'm about to prime my guys with Army Painter (white). I have some sprues and crap minis to test on though, so I won't actually gently caress up anything important, but it'd be nice to have a primer that isn't super-fiddly. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 14:58
|
|
|
krushgroove posted:You'll probably notice a big difference if you've been airbrushing for a while. If you're used to using the fine detail needle/nozzle set (you are using them as a set, right? they're matched together and that's how they're meant to be used) you should be experienced enough to know how to thin and clean the 360 properly enough to use the Sotar. The Sotar (and Renegade Krome) will have a much finer spray - excuse the lame comparison, but think 'high definition' compared to the 360 or Patriot because it's just machined smoother and to a higher grade than the general purpose models. If it doesn't spray as smoothly, it's clogged up or something else is wrong (probably a clog). Does it make any sense to but a second, good airbrush if you already have a Sotar? The Sotar is so much easir to use than my crappy cheap one, but I'm wondering if I should get a mid-grade one for undercoats and basecoats - and maybe use the cheap one just for varnish? Hauki posted:More in adventures of first-time painting: I've been painting on and off for 25 years or so, and I never got confortable with spray can priming. I still end up with way to heavy coats obscuring details once in a while. Chill la Chill posted:For those of you guys who airbrush at home, what's your setup look like? I'm hoping a basic box and newspapers is fine for purely airbrushing water based paints and that I don't need an extractor. I did buy a respirator with OG/AV P100 which might be overkill but whatever it's cheap. Ideally I want something small I can place on my small table in my apartment. It's nice and folds up very compact, but I'm not sure if there's enough suction to really work.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 15:00
|
|
|
HardCoil posted:Does it make any sense to but a second, good airbrush if you already have a Sotar? The Sotar is so much easir to use than my crappy cheap one, but I'm wondering if I should get a mid-grade one for undercoats and basecoats - and maybe use the cheap one just for varnish? I would say save your money and keep using what you've got if you're happy with it  If you do a lot of airbrushing and swapping, it would be worth it to have a good quality general purpose like a Patriot or 360 with a QD on each, but it all depends what you're doing. Portrait painters can have 10 or more Renegade models lined up with different colors in siphon jars attached to each one, but model painters I think tend to have at most 2 brushes on the go at once.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 15:06
|
|
|
Avenging Dentist posted:Does anyone have opinions about spray vs brush-on varnish? I used to use spray varnish, but that's back when I had a craft room and could spray indoors. I could possibly find a place to spray indoors with an extractor and such, but maybe it'd be better to keep it simple and use brush-on. I suppose I could also just get good with aerosol spray varnish. Brush-on matte never seems to be flat enough for me, but brush-on gloss is perfectly fine. I bought a can of Minwax Polycrylic clear gloss (which is exactly the same stuff as artist's brush-on gloss) at Home Depot years and years ago, and it's still going strong. Mix it 3:1 with acrylic floor polish and it even becomes self-leveling, so you don't get any bubbles or brush marks. Testor's Dullcote is still king of matte varnishes, though. Just make sure you throw down a coat or two of gloss first so that the Dullcote doesn't eat the top layer of paint, since it's a lacquer. This is also known as Bullet Coating. My varnishing method is always Gloss 2x > Dullcote > Gloss/Semigloss(floor polish) on wet/shiny parts (teeth, tongue, eyes, claws, reflective metal, gems, etc).
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 15:33
|
|
|
Over in the Scale Modeling thread we have been having a group project for the month of August. The idea was to all buy the same cheapo crap kit and see who could come up with the best end product. It was decided to buy the Airfix 1:72 IS-3 tank kit. This kit is not without it's problems as it was designed by someone who had never seen the tank expect for one photograph, as Pierzak found out. Pierzak posted:I have that too. I accidentally shaved down the nub that's supposed to help with barrel orientation because it had a major mold shift. So Ladies and Gentlemen I am cross posting here for your judgement! The winner gets to pick the next monstrosity of a model for us all to do! In no particular order I present to you....Crap Tank! The Locator posted:I think I'm done with craptank for now. Reasonably happy with it given that it's my first plastic model in 30 years, but it certainly has some issues and things I would do different if I could start over. Troll Bridgington posted:Okay. NOW I'm calling it done with this tank. Added some rust, some burnt umber washes, the decals, and a matt coat. Bonus pictures of babby tank's older brother model in the background. Ensign Expendable posted:Introducing Joseph "Get rich or kill those trying" $talin and his trusty wingman Lavrentiy Party-vich Beriya! Blue Footed Booby posted:here's craptank anyway. big_g posted:I'm not sure what I'm doing. Warmachine posted:Craptank has been sitting like this for roughly two weeks now, since I've had poo poo for time. I did carve out the muzzle break. I also stuck modeling putty in the tracks and called it close enough. Seriously gently caress vinyl. Not sure if I'll do a camo, or if I'll take the lazy tank crew option and just detail and weather it. Nebakenezzer posted:So somebody described craptank as a child's rendering of a IS-3. So that gave me an idea. headcas3 posted:My craptank finally showed up but I don't have part 51. I see the space for it on the sprue but it's not there or in the box lilljonas posted:Crappy soviet tank project? No problem, just need a soundtrack: Unkempt posted:Well, we all know what this is: Arquinsiel posted:Craptank pictures! I went in a different direction to most of you and decided to paint this as a tank I might actually get some wargames use out of at some point, so I present to you: Uncie Joe's Egyptian summer holiday '67!: Sanguine posted:So, with the crappiness of crap tank I though 'why waste paint?' Also the discussion a bit back about instructions for painting tanks using grass in fuel got me thinking, so.. why not paint it with grass? EDIT: Late entry: Blackchamber posted:Late, and incomplete. I tried melting and gluing the tracks on but they just dont want to stay together. Crap effort for my crap tank anyways since I basically redid the paint job last night. big_g fucked around with this message at 21:28 on Sep 1, 2015 |
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 15:54
|
|
), but is mounted off-center.
|
That's really great. Nebakenezzer
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 16:13
|
|
|
I enjoyed the story of craptank.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 16:19
|
|
|
Lol crap tank. That's magnificent. Lol at the grass airbrushed one. First of all, thank you for the huge effort post! I'll try to rig one up next to a living room window we don't use so I should be able to get a good fan, filter, and tube and box combo going. I looked at the one from Amazon that people posted and that's v expensive too :/. Someone on another forum said I should get a certain type of fan because of possible fires from atomized paint hitting magnet fans? I was looking at tutorials and I must've been looking at car detail ones cuz they were talking about 40-55 psi and nothing close to 25psi.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 18:22
|
|
|
I actually have some of that, but I was planning to use it for touchup. My tests with spray primer on bits of old sprue have actually been going ok, so I'm guessing one of the issues people have with Army Painter is that they treat it like every other primer, when it has some unique properties (especially that it dries super fast, so you need to be closer to the mini than you're used to). I suppose the real solution is to get an airbrush, but I'm not about to do that if all I'm painting are a handful of guys for D&D and Dark Age. I did try the Army Painter primer in 77% humidity and it worked out great, so maybe I'm ok. But then, I'm also the kind of paranoid who always washes their models before priming and does a test-prime on some scrap 5 minutes prior to the real deal. Silhouette posted:Brush-on matte never seems to be flat enough for me, but brush-on gloss is perfectly fine. I bought a can of Minwax Polycrylic clear gloss (which is exactly the same stuff as artist's brush-on gloss) at Home Depot years and years ago, and it's still going strong. Mix it 3:1 with acrylic floor polish and it even becomes self-leveling, so you don't get any bubbles or brush marks. I'm tempted to try out Vallejo varnishes; I'd bought some Army Painter "anti-shine" varnish, since some people seemed to like it. Other people absolutely hate it though. I guess I should get some gloss varnish, so I don't have what I need yet anyway. If anyone's tried the Vallejo varnishes, I'd be interested in hearing a trip report.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 18:22
|
|
|
Gareth Gobulcoque posted:That's really great. Nebakenezzer I'll second this.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 18:34
|
|
|
big_g posted:Over in the Scale Modeling thread we have been having a group project for the month of August. The idea was to all buy the same cheapo crap kit and see who could come up with the best end product. That's an awesome idea with awesome results 
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 18:54
|
|
|
I enjoyed that post a lot
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 19:00
|
|
|
I would genuinely love to see what this thread could do with a cheap gundam kit
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 20:15
|
|
|
Chill la Chill posted:Could you take a pic of this? I'm trying to imagine this setup but can't. Tia. My setup is way less advanced than krushgroove's:  I just remove my hobby tools, put an old towel over the desk and clamp it against the wall up to the lamps (so it makes an L shape against the wall). Then a put paper towels over the cloth towel so I don't need to wash it constantly. Open window, turn on fan facing desk, spray, no problems. I almost never spray more than 35 PSI, but I definitely wear a respirator while I do this.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 20:42
|
|
|
Holy hell grass tankSRM posted:I enjoyed the story of craptank.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 20:46
|
|
|
Just be like me and spray in the back staircase of your apartment building and never tell your landlord.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 21:12
|
|
|
big_g posted:Over in the Scale Modeling thread we have been having a group project for the month of August. The idea was to all buy the same cheapo crap kit and see who could come up with the best end product. Man, I love all of these. Grass painting gets particular mention. However, since the contest is for the best end product, I'm going to have to go with Troll Bridgington.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 21:22
|
|
|
SRM posted:Just be like me and spray in the back staircase of your apartment building and never tell your landlord. We do have underground parking and an enclosed trash area but those don't really help if it's humid, since they have big ol' garage doors. Maybe it'll help in the winter, though. Primer doesn't worry me too much (absolute worst-case scenario, I strip the minis and fix any glue/greenstuff that got ruined), but varnishing is a little scarier since I wouldn't want to ruin a nice paintjob.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 21:34
|
|
|
Avenging Dentist posted:We do have underground parking and an enclosed trash area but those don't really help if it's humid, since they have big ol' garage doors. Maybe it'll help in the winter, though. Primer doesn't worry me too much (absolute worst-case scenario, I strip the minis and fix any glue/greenstuff that got ruined), but varnishing is a little scarier since I wouldn't want to ruin a nice paintjob.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 21:41
|
|
|
SRM posted:Varnishing isn't scary at all, if it fogs up you can just hit it again with gloss varnish and eat away at the previous layer. Done it a million times. What brand do you use? I only have matte varnish, so I probably should at least pick up some gloss. Vallejo seems like it's best through an airbrush, but I don't think I'd mind brushing it on if it actually works. Brush-on would also be good for getting into tight spaces (e.g. armpits) which wouldn't need protection, but would look more consistent visually, since I know varnish can subtly alter the colors on a mini. I suppose I could also chalk the Army Painter hate up to operator error and just roll with it...
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 21:56
|
|
|
Avenging Dentist posted:What brand do you use? I only have matte varnish, so I probably should at least pick up some gloss. Vallejo seems like it's best through an airbrush, but I don't think I'd mind brushing it on if it actually works. Brush-on would also be good for getting into tight spaces (e.g. armpits) which wouldn't need protection, but would look more consistent visually, since I know varnish can subtly alter the colors on a mini. I use Testors. One coat of gloss coat and two coats of dullcote always do it. Gloss varnish is more durable, so I basically just use the matte varnish to dull down the sheen.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 22:00
|
|
|
Same here. I swear by Testors Dullcote. Lately I've switched to using Pledge for glass varnish needs, but Testors Gloss Cote is still rock solid.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 22:08
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 15:39 |
|
|
signalnoise posted:I would genuinely love to see what this thread could do with a cheap gundam kit Hi-Mock painting showcase would be pretty fun.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2015 22:52
|
|
