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thespaceinvader posted:Is there something I'm missing? I just bought a pot of Tamiya White because gently caress giving GW money, and it behaves differently from basically every other paint I've used, including the pot of Tamiya Nato Black I picked up at the same time. If I use it neat is dries out and goes tacky or stringy almost instantly, if I try to thin it with water it either goes so thin that it pools horribly and acts more like a wash, or almost curdles. Halp. What is the model number of the paint? Maybe you grabbed the enamel instead of the acrylic? Edit: hmmm i checked and all their paints are "acrylic," but i know that i thin my Smoke with their lacquer thinner and not water. Any Tamiya experts around here? dexefiend fucked around with this message at 15:59 on Dec 30, 2015 |
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Dec 30, 2015 15:54
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dexefiend posted:What is the model number of the paint? Maybe you grabbed the enamel instead of the acrylic? X-2, but it definitely says 'acrylic paint' on the label, I checked before I bought it.
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Dec 30, 2015 15:55
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Tamiya paints need to be thinned with Tamiya thinner, I think it's X-22A
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Dec 30, 2015 18:46
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krushgroove posted:Tamiya paints need to be thinned with Tamiya thinner, I think it's X-22A Dagnabit if I knew that I would have bought some when I was there. Fortunately I will be there on Tuesday. Super lame though.
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Dec 30, 2015 18:56
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So, uh, what's the best way to get superglue off of pewter? I tried to wash some excess off a Hordes Boneswarm and instead it ran and pooled inside all the sculpted lines.
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Dec 30, 2015 19:08
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An Angry Bug posted:So, uh, what's the best way to get superglue off of pewter? I tried to wash some excess off a Hordes Boneswarm and instead it ran and pooled inside all the sculpted lines. Stick it in the freezer overnight, then take it out and let it get to room temperature. The cold will weaken the bond and let you scrape it off easier.
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Dec 30, 2015 19:13
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Alternatively, acetone as long as you don't care about the paintwork. I think acetone hits cyanoacrylate.
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Dec 30, 2015 19:16
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Haven't posted in awhile but I thought you guys might like this:  Custom pegboard paint holder. Made it snap together but a dab of glue on the cross bars is all you need to keep it stable if the tolerances are too low to friction fit. Have to print like 2 more sets for the rest of my paints (plus adjust the hole size for the tamiya and generic paint bottles).
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Dec 30, 2015 19:18
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thespaceinvader posted:Alternatively, acetone as long as you don't care about the paintwork. I think acetone hits cyanoacrylate. It does. 5-10 minutes in some acetone turns CA into jelly that you can easily scrape off with a knife.
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Dec 30, 2015 20:02
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JackMann posted:Reaper HD Armor Grey might be close to what you want. You might also look at their Military Grey (not Military Green as suggested by the equivalency charts). Good call, thanks, I'll check it out 
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Dec 30, 2015 20:28
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enri posted:Can anyone recommend a close match for the old citadel foundation adeptus battlegrey? My pot is finally running low and it's a colour I use on literally everything, closest I can see is P3 greatcoat grey but I'm pretty sure it's got a bit of a blue tinge to it. Greatcoat does have a very slight blueish tinge, but Ironhull Grey seems closer to Adeptus.
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Dec 30, 2015 22:50
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thespaceinvader posted:Alternatively, acetone as long as you don't care about the paintwork. I think acetone hits cyanoacrylate. Avenging Dentist posted:It does. 5-10 minutes in some acetone turns CA into jelly that you can easily scrape off with a knife. No paint on it yet, so sounds like a plan. Thanks.
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Dec 30, 2015 22:56
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JoshTheStampede posted:Greatcoat does have a very slight blueish tinge, but Ironhull Grey seems closer to Adeptus. I actually remembered a short while back that I have a pot of greatcoat grey and had a quick peak at it, and yea, that blue tinge is what's put me off using it in the past. Thanks for the heads up on ironhull grey though, I'll check that out too whilst I'm at it
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Dec 30, 2015 22:59
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An Angry Bug posted:No paint on it yet, so sounds like a plan. Thanks. One more thing: it will probably strip any putty you have on the mini, although I've never tried using acetone on putty, so this is second-hand info.
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Dec 30, 2015 23:04
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Just got this Reaper Oni cleaned up and zenithal primed, but I can't decide if I want to go with a red oni or a blue oni. Suggestions?
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Dec 31, 2015 00:21
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Why not both, right down the middle?
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Dec 31, 2015 02:03
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Honk honk motherfuckers!    Got some gaps to smooth out with greenstuff, but after that it's ready to be detailed - I'm thinking a metric poo poo-ton of rivers and a bigass XIV insignia stretching across the front plow, made out of plasticard strips and more plastic rod rivets. Break up that huge smooth plain of the plow and make sure the other guys know who they're about to get run over by.
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Dec 31, 2015 12:07
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I've been doing a lot of advanced blending lately, so I decided to do some real quick block highlights. Block highlights are fun. And relaxing. 
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Dec 31, 2015 20:09
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Avenging Dentist posted:One more thing: it will probably strip any putty you have on the mini, although I've never tried using acetone on putty, so this is second-hand info. Dichloromethane (industrial paint stripper/organic solvent/chloroform/plastic weld) will dissolve acrylic, superglue and any putty on the miniature. Best way of prepping old metal miniatures for new paint. I would support the notion that acetone will do the same thing. Edit ^^^ Awesome  Very subtle but effective texturing on the cape, skin and staff. Were they all freehanded in?
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Dec 31, 2015 20:46
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Drake_263 posted:Honk honk motherfuckers! This owns dude
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Dec 31, 2015 21:48
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Two more ranks done for my mercenary orc boys unit. I'm calling these guys the Hired Goons. Shields and banner looted from previous campaigns in the  
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Jan 1, 2016 00:30
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dmnz posted:Two more ranks done for my mercenary orc boys unit. I'm calling these guys the Hired Goons. This is awesome. Please let me know how you do the orc skin! Edit: Also looking for ways to do black orc skin. Tried 4 different methods so far and not happy with any. with a rebel yell she QQd fucked around with this message at 01:01 on Jan 1, 2016 |
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Jan 1, 2016 00:39
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Thanks! The skin for these guy is a black undercoat, Waagh Flesh, pure Snot Green from an old pot, then something like 50/50 Snot Green / Sunburst Yellow also from an old pot. This is brighter than I'd usually go for but I feel old models deserve vibrant colors. I had to experiment with Black orc skin a bit till I found something that I liked. From memory it was Orkhide Shade (would have been Dark Angles Green but it had run out) then 50/50 Orkhide Shade / Snot Green. Then a touch of pure Snot Green as a vary sparse final highlight. I'm painting the classic mid 90's Black orc models so again its a bit of a classic color scheme. It maynot work so well on the recent models.
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Jan 1, 2016 01:10
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Oath Thread Crosspost!Dr. Gargunza posted:
And a Happy New Year, fellow paintgoons! 
Dr. Gargunza fucked around with this message at 04:00 on Jan 1, 2016 |
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Jan 1, 2016 03:54
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Oath Complete! 
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Cool poo poo as always, doc.
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Jan 1, 2016 04:11
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Finished one last mini for the new year, and got started on another.  Wizard dude is for the pathfinder game I'm in. Not the cleanest or neatest work, but it'll do for tabletop.   I ended up going with blue for this guy. I briefly thought about doing it down the middle as CFH suggested, but I don't think I have the painting chops to quite pull it off.
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Jan 1, 2016 07:11
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dmnz posted:Thanks! This is great as I also need it for '93-'94 black orcs/orcs. Now to get a pot of Waagh Flesh on Jan 1st..
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Jan 1, 2016 12:34
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How do you get a citadel glaze to apply evenly over a flat surface?
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Jan 1, 2016 18:26
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Getting bored of painting space marines and want to paint some space bugs that I have for a bit. What do you all think of this color scheme? Or this. I seem to be hellbent on using tertiary colors. 
Star Man fucked around with this message at 19:47 on Jan 1, 2016 |
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Jan 1, 2016 19:26
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Looking for some color scheme advice. Below are test models I am doing for a dropzone commander PHR force. I like it generally, something seems off. Recomendations for color changes or accent colors for parts? All these models have done to them so far is preshading, yellow base and the brown after all done, sloppily, with airbrush.
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Jan 1, 2016 19:52
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I like the one on the left the most. Middle is meh, right one evokes thoughts of something organic looking (which might be good or bad).
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Jan 1, 2016 20:13
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I believe part of your problem is you preshaded in black then applied yellow. So, now your yellow is green or has a green undertone to it, which combined with brown looks kinda like bile. Preshade with brown if you want. Good accent colors: desaturated blues, saturated light blues, light creams.
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Jan 1, 2016 20:14
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Star Man posted:Getting bored of painting space marines and want to paint some space bugs that I have for a bit. What do you all think of this color scheme? I like the second one more.
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Jan 1, 2016 20:28
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So I'm about halfway through painting some smashfuckers, and I'm coming to an issue with my color scheme. I'm perfectly happy with the Legionnaires themselves (though I think I'll repaint the shields in blue), but I'm not feeling the mounts. I'm thinking of redoing them a very very dark red, like in this guy. I feel like I've already lost the opportunity to paint them in their Legion's colors, since I don't want to strip and start over. Thoughts?     (Actually now that I look at the pictures, the dark bronze is growing on me. Maybe painting the shields blue really is the answer.) Also, I painting this dude up for a coworker's secret santa present. At the time I wasn't satisfied, especially with his head, but now that there's a week between painting and looking, I'm pretty pleased. I definitely wouldn't have been able to put together anything like this a year ago. 
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Jan 1, 2016 23:23
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Star Man posted:Getting bored of painting space marines and want to paint some space bugs that I have for a bit. What do you all think of this color scheme? I like the orange one, but would dull down that orange some more. You don't want it to stand out TOO much from the rest of the model.
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Jan 1, 2016 23:40
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DeadGame posted:How do you get a citadel glaze to apply evenly over a flat surface? Make sure you only have a little bit of glaze on your brush and ensure you aren't flooding the area like you would with a wash. If you see ride marks in the glaze use a wet brush to feather it out while the paint is still wet
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Jan 2, 2016 00:38
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I got some stuff done today, again!  Extra detailing from some mil- and half-mil plasticard    And with the gaps filled with greenstuff. I'm letting the 'stuff cure overnight, and I'll sand it down a bit to smooth it out tomorrow. After that, all I need is to file the gaps between the plates a bit (helping to separate the XIV from the reinforced lower edge of the plow) and add approximately a metric fuckload (1 fuckload = 4 poo poo-tons) of rivets.
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Jan 2, 2016 00:40
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My Kingdom Death starting survivors are pretty much done.
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Jan 2, 2016 05:42
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How do they make such fancy lanterns with only stone tools?
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Jan 2, 2016 06:43
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Star Man posted:Getting bored of painting space marines and want to paint some space bugs that I have for a bit. What do you all think of this color scheme? I like the second one, also you might want to look at Legion of Everblight schemes for inspiration.
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Jan 2, 2016 13:28
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