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Hey Razzled, I have exactly the same model and year Tuono as you, and mine's had trouble starting too. You posted a video a while back which had the needle making clicking sounds when it failed to start - mine does the exact same thing. I'm in Washington and without an indoor garage, so the bike gets really cold in the morning. So far, I've changed the battery and spark plugs. This helped starting in the middle (warmer part) of the day, but starting in the early morning would still fail. What ended up solving the issue for me is making sure to always park in neutral. If i do that I get about 90% reliable starting. Of course, now my three month old battery is almost dead... apparently the Tuono murders batteries.
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Mar 31, 2016 17:54
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How are your battery terminals? Clean, tight?
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Mar 31, 2016 17:57
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Hm, I didn't actually check that, will do. But ~my multimeter~ shows the battery dropping down to 9-10ish volts when cranking, which I think is a bad sign.
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Mar 31, 2016 18:07
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That Rotax twin is absolute murder on batteries, my old Mille basically got through one a year (commuting through winter isn't great on a battery to start with, of course). The needles clicking when it fails to start is normally a sign that the voltage has dropped below (IIRC) 10v, which confuses th ECU - if you keep cranking it'll eventually do the full sweep it does when you first turn it on.
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Mar 31, 2016 18:17
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Yeah, big high-comp pistons on a single crank pin are torture on starters and batteries. I had consistent starting problems when I got my Uly but since I cleaned/sealed/reinforced *every* ground on the bike (there are like 6) and even added one from the cylinder head to the battery it's been 99% fine. I know I need to put it on the tender if it hesitates or clicks over TDC while I'm holding the button, but usually once it's compressed another starter bump pushes it over.
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Mar 31, 2016 18:21
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clutchpuck posted:Yeah, big high-comp pistons on a single crank pin are torture on starters and batteries. Just as a matter of interest does the single crank pin make a big difference, and if so, why?
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Mar 31, 2016 18:24
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Master cylinder seals. The brembo on my Drz did this until I replaced the seals. Where should one go for a rebuild kit for a Gen2 Bandit 600? EDIT: Hmmm: https://www.amazon.ca/Supply-Master-Cylinder-Rebuild-32-4222/dp/B001KOG1R6?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0 Ziploc fucked around with this message at 18:30 on Mar 31, 2016 |
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Mar 31, 2016 18:26
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Just as a matter of interest does the single crank pin make a big difference, and if so, why? A two-pin crank like Honda's VTX1800 has pistons rising and falling opposite each other. A single pin (most v-twins afaik) has them rising at the same time.
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Mar 31, 2016 18:31
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clutchpuck posted:A two-pin crank like Honda's VTX1800 has pistons rising and falling opposite each other. A single pin (most v-twins afaik) has them rising at the same time.  That didn't even occur to me, I was hung up wondering whether there was more stiction in the bearing or stupid poo poo like that.
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Mar 31, 2016 18:35
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EkardNT posted:Hey Razzled, I have exactly the same model and year Tuono as you, and mine's had trouble starting too. You posted a video a while back which had the needle making clicking sounds when it failed to start - mine does the exact same thing. I'm in Washington and without an indoor garage, so the bike gets really cold in the morning. hi5 Fighter buddy! Yeah I have def started parking in neutral now. I think it's also just related to the cold, it's just a tough motor to start up cold. Hnasty linked me to some replacement wires that many people have said greatly improved startup speed http://www.motolectric.com/makes/aprilia.html Basically the wires on the tuono are mostly lovely and probably under-provisioned. Now that I've been putting it regularly on the tender everything is good now though. I think I read somewhere that the multifunction computer alone does like a constant 5A pull so if you dont yank the 30A fuses in the front while it sits it'll empty the batteries eventually. (2-3 weeks?) I might need to check if there's a current leak but for the most part I think it's fine now
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Mar 31, 2016 19:17
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Razzled posted:http://www.motolectric.com/makes/aprilia.html Sounds familiar. You can get a starter cable at Autozone for like $12 though. That was my "add a ground" solution to my starting issues.
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Mar 31, 2016 19:20
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clutchpuck posted:Sounds familiar. You can get a starter cable at Autozone for like $12 though. That was my "add a ground" solution to my starting issues. When people install things like this is it replacing the old cable or is it adding another one on top of the current wire?
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Mar 31, 2016 19:26
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For me, I traced the ground for the starter through the cases, heads, frame, and subframe to finally the battery. I bypassed the frame and subframe and with a 8ga cable. Left everything else as is. The hot wire is nice and beefy and pretty direct from the battery so I didn't see any reason to mess with that side.
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Mar 31, 2016 19:53
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EkardNT posted:Hey Razzled, I have exactly the same model and year Tuono as you, and mine's had trouble starting too. You posted a video a while back which had the needle making clicking sounds when it failed to start - mine does the exact same thing. I'm in Washington and without an indoor garage, so the bike gets really cold in the morning. This should be spammed any time anyone gets a Ye Olde Aprilia: * Replace starter solenoid/relay (I think some Yamaha one fits) * Solder the wires and crimps in the dreaded white and brown connectors. Tried and true: http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?64758-Wire-mod-instructions-for-Dummies-Like-ME! * As BigAss/good a battery as will fit * Consider replacing some bulbs with LEDs The above will solve 95% of problems, mainly that the oem relay is just a piece of poo poo and those connectors are crappy resulting in not enough voltage getting to the battery (the leds help with that too). Also the connectors can totally melt and strand you. I forget if I ran a ground wire, but that does sound kind of familiar. Edit: clicking noise and engine no cranky is probably dead/dying relay.
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Apr 1, 2016 02:46
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Huh, never heard of an Italian bike with dodgy electrical design before.
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Apr 1, 2016 03:43
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Infinotize posted:This should be spammed any time anyone gets a Ye Olde Aprilia: Ok nice, I hadn't seen that link before. I will definitely give it a read through and prep the stuff to get that done, looks like a huge difference for idle and revving voltages
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Apr 1, 2016 04:04
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I was actually surprised at how quickly my tuono fires up... I'll still check those issues, can't hurt.
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Apr 1, 2016 12:45
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Can any FZ-07 owners offer opinions on aftermarket exhausts? Yea or nay? Half the time I really enjoy how quiet this bike is (especially living in an apartment complex), but there are other times I wish the bike didn't sound like a wet fart. I've done a little bit of research and it looks like you pretty much have to get a tune if you fit an aftermarket pipe. The bike is already plenty powerful and I'm not super hype on dropping like 1500 on performance upgrades I just wanted it a bit throatier sounding.
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Apr 1, 2016 23:02
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Can you do something dumb like drilling out the end of the baffle in the pipe? I did it to my vstar with a 1" hole saw on a 16" extension and about 15 minutes. Usually a new silencer won't throw your fueling off too much, it's when you do a header and pipe that replaces the cat you really need a tune.
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Apr 1, 2016 23:15
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clutchpuck posted:Can you do something dumb like drilling out the end of the baffle in the pipe? I did it to my vstar with a 1" hole saw on a 16" extension and about 15 minutes. You can do it to the FZ-6 as long as you remember to hold onto the drill... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZBtyQq-5KY
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Apr 1, 2016 23:53
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Efzedsix and I did it to our fz-6's. Just got the longest bit we could find.
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Apr 2, 2016 00:08
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I rebuilt both my front calipers on my GPz550, and went to install a brake line kit that deletes the anti-dive. However, I've never routed lines before and this seems a bit goofy. Did I mess it up, or does this look ok? I assume I need some zip ties somewhere? Here's an album of images.
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Apr 2, 2016 00:38
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goddamnedtwisto posted:You can do it to the FZ-6 as long as you remember to hold onto the drill... Yeah, you gotta watch out for that. He's basically drilling sheet metal inside there, and anyone who's worked with sheet metal knows that when the bit breaks through, it grabs like...that. Looks like he also has one of those wonderful/dangerous old fashioned drills where you can lock the motor on for more effective
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Apr 2, 2016 04:08
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Dang. I'm not taking a drill to the exhaust lol
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Apr 2, 2016 04:40
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I've been looking all over for a cover or less aggressive peg solution for my wr250x, with very little luck. The stock pegs cut right through the soles of my riding shoes in about 3 days. They are seriously sharp, and the small peg size makes for sole destroying mayhem. All I've found so far are these stunt pegs for a more streetable option. They don't fold, which bothers me. Isn't that a bad thing, when I'm off road and dump the bike? Won't it harm the rearset or frame? They, the stunt riders, assure that it "protects" the bike.  If I can find the right pegs, I can then just get whatever replacement boots I want, instead of MX boots. MOST IMPORTANTLY- Does the farkling ever stop?!
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Apr 2, 2016 23:33
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smooth pegs like that are complete poo poo in rain and when muddy
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Apr 2, 2016 23:48
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When I was looking for different pegs for my bike, I found the best option was to buy some OEM units that I liked the look of on eBay and file them to fit. All of the stuff on Revzilla or Amazon looked pretty crappy. It seems like pegs should have a standardized mounting system, but nooooooooooooo
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Apr 3, 2016 00:19
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Sagebrush posted:When I was looking for different pegs for my bike, I found the best option was to buy some OEM units that I liked the look of on eBay and file them to fit. All of the stuff on Revzilla or Amazon looked pretty crappy. Somehow we live in a world where brakes are more standardised than foot pegs and it's horrible.
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Apr 3, 2016 00:44
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Lol if you aren't riding in bitchin boots
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Apr 3, 2016 01:21
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Just grind/sand the pegs down a bit.
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Apr 3, 2016 07:27
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So after my parking lot spill during emergency braking practice, I noticed that the handlebars were slightly off center to the side it fell on. Getting it to track straight again was basically "turn it really fast until it hit the bump stop the opposite way and now it's straight." Nevertheless, the handlebars still turn farther left than right - sometimes when parked, kickstand down, handlebars to the left, the horn button will lightly touch the fuel tank. What acutally stops travel left to right? What's adjustable?
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Apr 3, 2016 22:11
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What bike? Handlebars or clipons?
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Apr 3, 2016 22:15
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Coydog posted:I've been looking all over for a cover or less aggressive peg solution for my wr250x, with very little luck. The stock pegs cut right through the soles of my riding shoes in about 3 days. They are seriously sharp, and the small peg size makes for sole destroying mayhem. Get some dual sport boots, they're made for that kind of bike.
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Apr 4, 2016 16:25
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Coydog posted:I've been looking all over for a cover or less aggressive peg solution for my wr250x, with very little luck. The stock pegs cut right through the soles of my riding shoes in about 3 days. They are seriously sharp, and the small peg size makes for sole destroying mayhem. I really like these pegs http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/pivot-pegz-mark-3-pivot-pegs You can buy a little rubber thing to go over them so they're not sharp but I've had no problem with how sharp messing up boots they are so I've never tried it. No, it does not.
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Apr 4, 2016 16:46
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Skier posted:My Triumph Scrambler sidecar rig's rear suspension is having issues. There's a lot of stiction/static friction on the rear, especially if it's been sitting for a while. I can almost get my entire weight on the foot peg before it feels like something breaks loose again. Then it's fine, until it sits without moving for a certain amount of time. That amount of time used to be weeks, now it's hours or minutes. Update on this: goddamnedtwisto was on the money, the shocks are the source of stiction. The left one is the worst but they both have a bit. I'll be sending them off for servicing and inspection in the future.
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Apr 4, 2016 17:30
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Thanks for all the answers on my peg/boot questions. It's an odd request, and I appreciate all of the options. BY ALL YOUR ANSWERS COMBINED, I AM HACKJOB SOLUTION! I'm going to grind down my pegs, or some cheap ebay pegs, I'm not sure which. I'm going to try to put some bike inner tube over them in a couple layers, and see if that still provides ok grip, and doesn't wear away. If so, I'll get another pair of coretechs since I like them. If not, I'll grab a pair of Forma Cape Horn. The fox comp 5 fit me fine, and I love the orange ones, but something that stiff won't be usable off the bike.
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Apr 5, 2016 03:56
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Razzled posted:smooth pegs like that are complete poo poo in rain and when muddy Ask me about the time I left the cap open when checking the oil and, a quarter mile down the road, accidentally dumped a bunch all over my right foot peg/boot
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Apr 5, 2016 04:05
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Sagebrush posted:Ask me about the time I left the cap open when checking the oil and, a quarter mile down the road, accidentally dumped a bunch all over my right foot peg/boot The rubber cork style ones on old bikes make me nervous.
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Apr 5, 2016 04:08
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Space Whale posted:So after my parking lot spill during emergency braking practice, I noticed that the handlebars were slightly off center to the side it fell on. There should be a bolt somewhere on the handlebars that you can loosen, and by doing so, will be able to adjust them further out. Just start at the end of the grips, and slowly work in towards the center looking for it.
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Apr 5, 2016 11:12
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Sagebrush posted:Ask me about the time I left the cap open when checking the oil and, a quarter mile down the road, accidentally dumped a bunch all over my right foot peg/boot I did the same, but rode 40 km before I noticed and had to ride 40 km back with an eucalyptus scented paper tissue as improvised cap. A surprisingly small amount of oil was missing given the amount that coated my leg. Passenger peg was nice backup.
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Apr 5, 2016 12:29
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