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Panaflex posted:Yeah you're technically supposed to keep any existing OEM emissions equipment intact on all vehicles back to 1966. But since only 1976 and later vehicles are inspected no one ever abides by that rule for 1966-1975. Also you can't swap an older motor into a newer vehicle. The motor has to be the same manufacture year or newer than the receiving vehicle. Yeah, that's why I said "in practice" 1975 or earlier. There is no mechanism for them to check up on you if you don't have regular smog checks, but you're technically not in compliance if you gently caress with a '66-'75 vehicle. But, obviously, this truck is earlier than both those years, so that is neither here nor there.
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May 26, 2016 10:07
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So apparently the V8 swap is meant to be. Turns out the bellhousing I need for a V8 truck is on eBay and pretty cheap. Now I just need to find an engine. And brakes. And wheels. ALMOST THERE! Also, I'd really like to say thank you for everyone who donated to the GoFundMe. You guys are so super awesome, and that thing went way higher than I ever thought it would! I can assure you that we will put this money to great use! E; Leperflesh posted:I'm just thinking of the likely scenario that a cop pulls over to investigate the shitheap truck being actively mechaniced on the side of a state highway at 11pm on a tuesday, and there's any legal paperwork that isn't completely above the board. The truck being from one state, all drivers being from other states, and any registration being from yet another random state. I suppose that cop is not super likely to check for matching VINs on engine blocks or whatever. I don't know, I live in California where you can't just randomly swap engines into things, and I'm also automatically leery of any situation where the "owner" can't adequately prove their ownership of the thing they're selling. I'm not super worried about this, as I do have the title for it, and it is a clear title. I need to get off my rear end and have it transfered over to me though. But otherwise, it will be titled, plated, and insured in Florida, so everything should be good to go. As good as you can be in a 60yo truck making a cross country journey anyways.
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May 27, 2016 02:14
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Do y'all have any inklings as to timing on the project? Before winter hits the midwest, obviously, but I had mentioned that I'd be able to take a triangle route to St. Louis and drop off an engine if it would help: The plan would be to buy the thing, remove the engine, and haul the rest to a junker's.
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May 27, 2016 16:03
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Elephanthead posted:You can buy an intake that will let that Buick have a distributor and carb. All you need then is a hot wire to make it go and some gas. Do yo have a link for said kit? scuz posted:Do y'all have any inklings as to timing on the project? Before winter hits the midwest, obviously, but I had mentioned that I'd be able to take a triangle route to St. Louis and drop off an engine if it would help: Well, I'm trying to shoot for sometime around August, but nothing's set in concrete. Though having this on hand would help immensely. If you do buy it, save the bellhousing as well. We'll need that.
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May 27, 2016 23:02
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So, surprisingly, Rockauto carries the wheel cylinders for the 1.5 ton trucks, but nothing else. And we are go for a V8 swap. Ordered the mounting kit for the brackets. Now we just need an engine.  *Nevermind, found the springs while typing this post up. I guess finding tires will the be the next bit expense. I found 7.50x20 tubes at a agri-supply place, so we might be running tractor tires on this thing.
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May 30, 2016 22:32
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ExplodingSims posted:So, surprisingly, Rockauto carries the wheel cylinders for the 1.5 ton trucks, but nothing else. How difficult/expensive is it to swap in some discs? Would be nice to have a couple of giant discs and calipers up front for better stopping power.
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May 30, 2016 23:57
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Over or under my dead body
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May 31, 2016 00:08
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Kicked in $25, I can't help but fund this particular type of insanity. Goonspeed you glorious fucks.
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May 31, 2016 00:36
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leica posted:How difficult/expensive is it to swap in some discs? Would be nice to have a couple of giant discs and calipers up front for better stopping power. Once it's home and can be measured, played with, partsbin engineered, and tweaked? Easy. In a field in Nebraska before a 2000 mile drive? Concerningly difficult unless someone else has done it and posted an incredibly detailed writeup. Hell, probably difficult anyways even with one, no telling what in the last 60 years has been hack fabbed, junkyarded off mildly compatible vehicles, or partsbinned at the factory/dealer that works fine with stock app parts but wildly conflicts with a disc swap recipe put together by some other dude with a theoretically-identical truck.
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May 31, 2016 03:55
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kastein posted:Once it's home and can be measured, played with, partsbin engineered, and tweaked? Easy. In a field in Nebraska before a 2000 mile drive? Concerningly difficult unless someone else has done it and posted an incredibly detailed writeup. Yeah that's what I was thinking, might be worth a shot if it's been well documented but what are the odds of that. Too bad because it would be some nice insurance for the long trip home.
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May 31, 2016 04:43
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To be honest, well-functioning drum brakes worked fine and still work fine for big vehicles. If I wanted to make the system safer I'd be thinking more along the lines of a two-circuit brake master/slave cylinder system, plus making sure all the parts are in good condition etc. You'll be driving the truck mostly unloaded compared to what it's capable of as a dump truck, so your brakes will probably have gobs of stopping power once they're in good condition.
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May 31, 2016 04:52
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-24502592 Here is the part number. Ebay is probably your best source as price seem to be going up. I think there is an optispark block off plate you need also. Maybe I am thinking about an electric water pump though. This is what happens when you stockpile LT1s in your garage and try to figure out what to do with them. They are so cheap when the optispark shits the bad for the 4th time. Brand:Chevrolet Performance Manufacturer's Part Number:24502592 Edit: I think you can drill new holes in any old SBC intake also. Which for this project is probably the AI way to go if you really want your SBC to be a messed up Frankenstein. I would just find any truck engine with manual transmission complete and strap it in place with ratchet straps if it were me. It is unlikely you are ever going to be able to stop the truck without dying so no need to plan for reliability. I would just find something like this on the way. https://indianapolis.craigslist.org/pts/5562499775.html Elephanthead fucked around with this message at 16:02 on May 31, 2016 |
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May 31, 2016 15:12
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As a reminder: do never buy. Whoops Jealous Cow fucked around with this message at 15:29 on May 31, 2016 |
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May 31, 2016 15:27
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Leperflesh posted:To be honest, well-functioning drum brakes worked fine and still work fine for big vehicles. If I wanted to make the system safer I'd be thinking more along the lines of a two-circuit brake master/slave cylinder system, plus making sure all the parts are in good condition etc. You'll be driving the truck mostly unloaded compared to what it's capable of as a dump truck, so your brakes will probably have gobs of stopping power once they're in good condition. Remember that those brake shoes are absolutely 150% definitely asbestos and should be treated with all due respect. I'd probably get a set from a junkyard and have them relined, and then clean everything religiously with a pressure washer in someone else's yard*. * seriously though, you don't want the overspray or runoff full of asbestos dust anywhere either. It's just a lovely lovely thing to have to deal with.
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May 31, 2016 16:56
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Yeah, I looked into a disc swap, and while it can be done, it involves a fair bit of work and possibly changing the front rims as well. Which IS something I'd like to do eventually, but that's for when I have plenty of free time to work, measure, engineer, and get frustrated and walk away. For now, the goal is get things up and running as quickly as possibly, without too much parts swapping. Though upgrading to a two stage master cylinder is definitely on the agenda.
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May 31, 2016 17:35
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kastein posted:Remember that those brake shoes are absolutely 150% definitely asbestos and should be treated with all due respect. I'd probably get a set from a junkyard and have them relined, and then clean everything religiously with a pressure washer in someone else's yard*. Don't forget to wear a mask, and using a spray bottle full of water will be better than pressure-washing. Mist until it's soaked, then gently wipe up as much as you can, wrap that in another rag/paper towel, let it dry, and sacrifice a can of any cheap resin to encapsulate it.
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May 31, 2016 22:08
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Use a proper mask, not a painter's dust mask. For asbestos you need like a P99 filter or better.
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May 31, 2016 22:21
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While your suggestion is the safer course of action, they can probably get away with N95 masks as long as they aren't stirring up dust and smearing it on the mask. Those are the most commonly available at home improvement stores. If anyone has facial hair, either shave or make sure the mask fully covers it.
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May 31, 2016 23:21
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Just get a 3M series 6000 or 7000 (iirc they take the same filters, I have a 6k) and use whatever filters you want that people say you will be fine with. N95 at home depot are expensive, I actually use P100 filters these days because they're smaller, lighter, cheaper on amazon, and apparently filter asbestos fibers and particulates better than N95. N95s sure are great for cleaning out bachelor fridges though. Some idiot (me) let some milk spoil REALLY BADLY once and with a 6000 mask and N95 filters, I poured it down the drain without smelling anything.
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May 31, 2016 23:45
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N95s are the poo poo. About to don one to clean up some moldy drywall and insulation. Fake edit: and my wife uses one when she has to work in the unique pathogens lab at her hospital.
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Jun 1, 2016 00:04
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kastein posted:Some idiot (me) let some milk spoil REALLY BADLY once and with a 6000 mask and N95 filters, I poured it down the drain without smelling anything. I did this once too...it was one of those cloudy plastic half-gallons, and I never even opened it. Just jammed it in back of the fridge and forgot about it for a few months. When I finally took notice of it, it was swollen as tight as a 2L soda bottle, and bulging like it was going to explode any second  I grabbed it as gingerly as I could, hustled it to the back door, and bombed it as hard as I could into the back yard  Cleaned up the bottle remnants a few days later, and it still smelled awful.
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Jun 1, 2016 00:15
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I was reading this thread in a coffee shop and Freebird came on right as the truck reached Nebraska...
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Jun 1, 2016 00:29
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Jealous Cow posted:unique pathogens lab
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Jun 1, 2016 00:53
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I would not take this job. Yeah it's pretty  They can't force anyone to deal with those patients either so it's staffed entirely voluntarily. Some of the poo poo she sees is 
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Jun 1, 2016 01:01
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Given the strict protocols involved, she's probably in less occupational hazard than your average automotive mechanic.
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Jun 1, 2016 01:04
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Leperflesh posted:Given the strict protocols involved, she's probably in less occupational hazard than your average automotive mechanic. To be fair this is true. The procedures they follow are super strict and monitored at all times by two people through glass at all times from each side of the room where they suit up/decontaminate.
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Jun 1, 2016 01:11
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Elephanthead posted:http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-24502592 It's tempting, but if Scuz does buy that Roadmaster, it'd probably be easier all around, since depending on what he needs from the car, I can harvest some of the other parts needed as well. Radiator, hoses, bell housing, etc. Plus, it just seems right for one car to be sacrificed so the truck may come back from the dead. Ancient rituals and whatnot.  Speaking of which, if you're still semi-serious about buying that Scuz, shoot me an email. explodingsims2@gmail.com
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Jun 1, 2016 03:00
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E-mail sent! The Roadmaster is useless to me besides being my foot in the door to this crazy plan. I love crazy plans.
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Jun 1, 2016 05:42
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A double-post to ask a question to you all: Before I tow a loving whale home to yank out its guts, what're the odds that the following will fit in the back of a two door VW Golf:
 The suspension on the Golf is brand new as of last year, and I put heavy-duty springs in the back which raised the thing by about 1.5".
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Jun 1, 2016 15:56
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Build a cradle for the engine and strap it to the hood like a gutted deer.
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Jun 1, 2016 16:11
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I did just get a welder... So the engine and all the accessories will weigh somewhere around 600 pounds, right? Bellhousing, flywheel, and rad I'm gonna guesstimate are gonna add another hundred, and according to Edmunds, the maximum payload of my chariot is 899 pounds when properly equipped, whatever the gently caress that means. The engine + all that other stuff + me = 900 pounds unless my guesstimates are off.
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Jun 1, 2016 16:29
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Well I guess there's one way to find out isn't there?
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Jun 1, 2016 17:00
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88h88 posted:Well I guess there's one way to find out isn't there? Gather a couple fat friends and cram them in the back for a joyride?
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Jun 1, 2016 17:09
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88h88 posted:Well I guess there's one way to find out isn't there? Faerunner posted:Gather a couple fat friends and cram them in the back for a joyride? Friend of mine has a home gym and I'm hoping he has somewhere around 700 pounds-worth of weights in there. The most I've had in the back so far are two full bass guitar stacks with amplifiers which weighed in a grand total of ~500 pounds (not including me) without breaking a sweat, really. I could chuck the whole mess into the back of my band's 460-equipped Econoline, but the operating costs on that would be something like $20/hour because of its poor MPG.
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Jun 1, 2016 17:25
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That Roadmaster has a completely different transmission (700R4 or 4L60e I think?) than the 1951 truck - and not only that it's auto vs manual. I'm not sure why the bellhousing is on the list? Regardless, it will fit if you don't care about your interior or suspension, for sure. Getting it in while it's hanging from an engine crane may not work out well due to the extra height. I do think an LT1 1951 truck would be awesome, just saying that the transmission stuff from the donor is probably irrelevant here. It also has a flexplate and a torque converter, not a flywheel. e: depending on your plans, you should grab the entirety of the wiring harness in the engine compartment, plus dash wiring and the fuel system and stuff as well. It's pretty light and if you want to keep the LT1 EFI, it will help a lot. If you're going to just strap a carb on clearly there's no point in doing this, though, and that's not really anything I'm going to argue over seeing as it's ancient dumb EFI and the truck was carbed in the first place anyways. kastein fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Jun 1, 2016 |
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Jun 1, 2016 17:30
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kastein posted:That Roadmaster has a completely different transmission (700R4 or 4L60e I think?) than the 1951 truck - and not only that it's auto vs manual. I'm not sure why the bellhousing is on the list?  Let's fix that:Hey Sims, the Roadmaster's an automatic so the transmission components won't work; Ken just said so  I imagine you still want the engine, though.Edit: buddy's home gym has ~700 pounds of weights, so test run is a go!
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Jun 1, 2016 17:38
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haha, it happens. The issue is that the crane, chain hanging from it, and engine all together add up to more height than may fit in your car. As in, if the oil pan clears the floor, you may have to saw a hole in the roof so the crane and chain will go far enough forward to get the engine over the floor instead of just butting uselessly against the hatch gasket. This is where the "three or four strong dudes, a case of beer, and some hernias" method of loading becomes your best option. Unless you just lean a couple 2x12s on the tailgate and push/pull/slide/lift-slide it up them with a few people helping, that might work.
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Jun 1, 2016 17:44
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Loading it in will be something of a fabricobble (thanks for that word, btw) adventure since the only strong dude I know is TheFonz and my back sucks at the moment. What I'm most worried about is what to do with the rest of the loving car after I've robbed it of its treasures. I could just drop it off at a junkyard or leave it by the side of the road since there's no title, but that's rude.
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Jun 1, 2016 17:49
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I stole that one from AvE, don't thank me Part it out. Roadmasters aren't exactly common in the rustbelt anymore. If the front and rear interior door cards aren't hosed (they're brittle old plastic) I might be interested in all 4 for my GF's roadmaster, hers are beyond repair. Not sure how much it'd cost to ship them or whether 94-96 door cards will fit a 91-93, though.
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Jun 1, 2016 18:02
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scuz what year is your golf?
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Jun 1, 2016 18:08
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