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Tighten to "it's not going to fall off" Newton meters of torque.
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Jun 16, 2016 20:44
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I stand corrected, and will use the torque wrench on it when I get home. Thanks for looking that up and explaining it to me!
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Jun 16, 2016 21:06
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I tighten my front wheel to nnngh torques and my rear wheel to nnnnnnNNGH. Never had any problems.
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Jun 16, 2016 21:10
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Another thing to double check would be if you're missing a spacer. I left one out once and destroyed a caliper bracket on my SV. Didn't crash so that was nice.
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Jun 16, 2016 21:16
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Ola posted:I tighten my front wheel to nnngh torques and my rear wheel to nnnnnnNNGH. Never had any problems. You're lucky. My Hawk has a single-sided swingarm, with a nut as big around as an eggplant, and without the breaker bar the fastening torque is HHHHHHHHHhhhhhERNIA Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 21:47 on Jun 16, 2016 |
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Jun 16, 2016 21:45
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Coydog posted:EX250 keeps sending the rear wheel out of alignment when I use the rear brake. I just did the chain and sprockets, put it all back together, adjusted everything, tightened the axle bolts and the bolt on that arm that the brake calliper sits on. Then, when I brake, the right side of the rear axle shifts back about 1/2 a notch, which of course also makes the chain too tight. Fixed it, tightened everything really well, and happened again right away. I had a similar problem with my 650, where I would adjust the chain to perfection, torque the axle nut down, chain is now super tight. No matter what I did or how I adjusted it, same result. Then I figured out that there was a rectangular spacer on the outside of the swingarm on both sides which I had installed rotated a quarter turn, so instead of jamming into place it slid freely. Once I found that and fixed it, everything is fine. So if it isn't just the torque spec, disassemble and look at everything critically to see if there's a piece that can easily be installed wrong while looking perfectly ok
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Jun 16, 2016 21:58
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Sagebrush posted:You're lucky. My Hawk has a single-sided swingarm, with a nut as big around as an eggplant, and without the breaker bar the fastening torque is HHHHHHHHHhhhhhERNIA Correct me if I'm wrong, but the swing arm is on the left? So, in order to tighten to hhhhhhhhhhPOP you're lifting up on the bar? Risking tipping the whole bike over onto its left side?
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Jun 16, 2016 22:03
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Correct me if I'm wrong, but the swing arm is on the left? So, in order to tighten to hhhhhhhhhhPOP you're lifting up on the bar? Risking tipping the whole bike over onto its left side? Correct. 125ft/lbs on that sucker. Unless you want to strap the thing down it's a 2 man job. It's gotta be done to change out those 30 year old cush rubbers. It's also a 46mm nut. Not a common socket to have lying around.
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Jun 16, 2016 22:13
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Correct me if I'm wrong, but the swing arm is on the left? So, in order to tighten to hhhhhhhhhhPOP you're lifting up on the bar? Risking tipping the whole bike over onto its left side? Center stand supremacy. Personally, I just hit the wrench with a rubber mallet until the torque breaks. Bus that's just mine.
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Jun 16, 2016 22:15
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Pope Mobile posted:Center stand supremacy. The Hawk has a center stand (well, one of my 2 does), but if it is up on the stand and is not supported by anything else when you torque that nut down you risk pushing it forward and dropping it off the stand. You can certainly do it with one person but to be safe it's best to just have someone sit on the bike and hold the front brake. E: I mean when you DE-torque that nut you are pushing it forward. Tightening it you risk dumping the whole thing on its side.
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Jun 16, 2016 22:18
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Correct me if I'm wrong, but the swing arm is on the left? So, in order to tighten to hhhhhhhhhhPOP you're lifting up on the bar? Risking tipping the whole bike over onto its left side?  As with most nuts, you can tighten it either by lifting up with the tool on the left, or pushing down with the tool on the right.e: but yeah it's a big pain to work with. Luckily, you can adjust the chain tension and in fact totally remove the rear wheel without touching it. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 23:05 on Jun 16, 2016 |
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Jun 16, 2016 22:39
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1290 has a 60mm rear axle nut. It's tight enough that when removing it you can destroy the retaining clip without realizing it, ask me how I know 
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Jun 16, 2016 23:02
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Sagebrush posted:
I was assuming there isn't enough room forward of it for that. Cans, foot pegs, cases, whatever. Were you also making a joke about genitals?
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Jun 17, 2016 00:55
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Fishvilla posted:This sounds super similar to my issue. Do you mind expanding on 'seat the rings that hold the fork caps in place'? I'm a Yeah, no problem. If you have the same issue is going to depend on what your forks look like internally. I really only know my Ninja, but for that bike replacing the fork oil requires a partial disassembly of the forks. Specifically at the top: you take the handlebar section off, then you can see the top inside of the fork. See here: http://faq.ninja250.org/images/4/44/Circlip_2.jpg The bit that's poking up is the ring, that seats in the ridge that you can barely see just above the cap. I replaced those bastard rings with circlips, but didn't seat them all the way, which is where my hissing/whooshing was coming from. Getting in there again and having an assistant tap them in place with a screwdriver did the trick. If none of this sounds familiar, I'm guessing your bike is different enough that this isn't your problem. QUESTION FOR THE THREAD: 1985 Honda Sabre 700 https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/mcy/5637616125.html Anything I should know about these bikes? I'm wanting a bigger standard, not afraid of a little work, and have something else to ride in the meantime. Anyone have experience with these? They are a bit of a one-year unicorn, except kind of not. edit: Interested in hearing if someone's had one of these, otherwise skipping this particular one. Value's just not there. TheNothingNew fucked around with this message at 22:41 on Jun 17, 2016 |
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Jun 17, 2016 01:29
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novice and don't quite understand that. Does it just mean having the triple trees & fork caps tightened properly?
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I tried replacing the brake fluid and bleeding my DRZ today. I got a Speedbleeder on the rear caliper and that went great. But when I put it on the front caliper, I could not get it to work. How possible is it that the check valve in one of them could be bad from the factory? I tried to blast some brake cleaner through from the inside, but that didn't seem to do anything. I gave up with that and put the regular bleed screw back in. I pumped 2 or 3 reservoir's worth of fluid through and still haven't gotten any feel back. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong there. Could the tubing not having a perfect seal get air back in the system? I don't release the lever until I shut the screw. Do I just need to keep going?
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Jun 18, 2016 16:31
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Deeters posted:
A bubble of air trapped somewhere. The rear is often easier because it's fairly flat. The lovely thing about bleeding brakes is that air wants to go up, you're trying to force it down. (That's why I prefer pushing fluid into the bleeder with a syringe) You can try tapping the line and the caliper or remove the caliper and hold it above the reservoir. Remember to put something suitable between the pads so you don't squeeze them all the way together.
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Jun 18, 2016 16:51
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I had that problem, until I forced some fluid into the caliper. A fully drained front caliper refused to bleed, even with speed bleeders. The second I filled some in there, it bled just fine. Have you tried your other bleeder screw on the front? Maybe they sent you a mismatched one?
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Jun 18, 2016 19:28
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Ola posted:A bubble of air trapped somewhere. The rear is often easier because it's fairly flat. The lovely thing about bleeding brakes is that air wants to go up, you're trying to force it down. (That's why I prefer pushing fluid into the bleeder with a syringe) You can try tapping the line and the caliper or remove the caliper and hold it above the reservoir. Remember to put something suitable between the pads so you don't squeeze them all the way together. I'll see what I can find that I can force fluid from the caliper up. A syringe sounds like a good idea. Coydog posted:Have you tried your other bleeder screw on the front? Maybe they sent you a mismatched one? I'm not totally sure what youre suggesting. Pull the one out of the rear caliper and try that on the front? I put the stock bleed screw back in, and I can pump fluid out just fine with that.
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Jun 18, 2016 20:43
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Deeters posted:I'll see what I can find that I can force fluid from the caliper up. A syringe sounds like a good idea. There's tons of cheap ones on ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Metal-One-M...5281616&vxp=mtr
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Jun 19, 2016 12:13
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I'm keeping my eyes open for a nice dual sport and found a couple of 2008 KLRs not too far from me. One of which is lowered by 4" http://www.kijiji.ca/v-dirt-bikes-motocross/calgary/lowered-price-2008-klr650-must-sell/1174912280?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true Thinking of giving dude a call and throwing out a mid-2K offer. Question about them though as I don't have much dirt/enduro experience, I'm not sure if I want a lowered bike. I'm not the tallest guy, but I'm not short either (5'11" 32ish inseam) How hard would this be to bring back stock? Is there a standard way someone would lower a KLR?
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Jun 19, 2016 17:41
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I have a Shoei Airfoil that I bought new 4 years ago and wore for perhaps 100 hours, after which it sat on the shelf in my room. I've had it hammered into my head (haha) that helmets expire after 5 or so years because the impact foam dries out and deteriorates, but this quote from Snell seems to indicate that figure is mostly due to wear-and-tear:quote:The five-year replacement recommendation is based on a consensus by both helmet manufacturers and the Snell Foundation. Glues, resins and other materials used in helmet production can affect liner materials. Hair oils, body fluids and cosmetics, as well as normal "wear and tear" all contribute to helmet degradation. Petroleum based products present in cleaners, paints, fuels and other commonly encountered materials may also degrade materials used in many helmets possibly degrading performance. Additionally, experience indicates there will be a noticeable improvement in the protective characteristic of helmets over a five-year period due to advances in materials, designs, production methods and the standards. Thus, the recommendation for five-year helmet replacement is a judgment call stemming from a prudent safety philosophy.
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Jun 19, 2016 19:33
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Grimes posted:I have a Shoei Airfoil that I bought new 4 years ago and wore for perhaps 100 hours, after which it sat on the shelf in my room. I've had it hammered into my head (haha) that helmets expire after 5 or so years because the impact foam dries out and deteriorates, but this quote from Snell seems to indicate that figure is mostly due to wear-and-tear: Definitely keep it, it's fine for many more years. The helmet seller wants you to buy more helmets, but you don't have to.
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Jun 19, 2016 19:46
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slidebite posted:I'm keeping my eyes open for a nice dual sport and found a couple of 2008 KLRs not too far from me. One of which is lowered by 4" You'll probably be able to touch both feet on a stock one with a 32 inch inseam.
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Jun 19, 2016 20:04
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Thanks. I can on my C14 and it's not a small/short bike by any means either. How hard would it be to remove a lowering kit? Easy peasy?
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Jun 19, 2016 20:09
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It looks like the fork tubes are just slid up. 4" is a lot, a quick Google only gave me one link that'll do this, this adjustable one - https://www.amazon.com/Soupys-KLR650-Double-Style-Lowering/dp/B00INCJAQM If that's all they've done, you could swap it back in like 30 minutes. Did they trim down the kickstand?
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Jun 19, 2016 20:23
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Grimes posted:I have a Shoei Airfoil that I bought new 4 years ago and wore for perhaps 100 hours, after which it sat on the shelf in my room. I've had it hammered into my head (haha) that helmets expire after 5 or so years because the impact foam dries out and deteriorates, but this quote from Snell seems to indicate that figure is mostly due to wear-and-tear: It's your brain and face. You decide the amount of money you want to spend on them.
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Jun 19, 2016 22:11
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Depends on how it was stored. Did the room get balls hot, or have high humidity? Was it near a window? I generally get a new helmet every year or two, if only because helmets keep getting better and better wrt ventilation.
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Jun 19, 2016 22:17
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Geirskogul posted:I generally get a new helmet every year or two, if only because helmets keep getting better and better wrt ventilation. This is true - the Shoei GT Air is loving amazing airflow-wise and I thought my RF-1000 was the pinnacle of good helmet design. It's like night and day. Although I'm on the two-or-more years cycle myself. If you have a few bucks to burn it's worth looking into newer helmets because, as said before, its your face and brain.
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Jun 19, 2016 22:26
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Real stupid question incoming. Looking into enduros and prices for them seem to be rather high in my area. What's the consensus of converting something like a CRF450/250R or RM450/250 to be street legal. Minnesota is an honor system with no inspection. Just $10 and attest you have a front light, a plate light and a horn. I've see stators sold that can run this stuff on the bike, so would be not too hard. I assume the maintenance on a bike like that is very prohibitive though and the main reason to just steer away. It would be a 2nd, or 3rd bike, so I'm a bit more interested, but I have a gut feeling it's dumb or more folks would do it. I want something like a DRZ-400E, but I'm having trouble finding them in my area. Edit: it is a dumb idea. I also just saw a DRZ come up as I was pulling up craigslist for this post so I sent the guy a message. TheFonz fucked around with this message at 02:55 on Jun 20, 2016 |
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Jun 20, 2016 02:38
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If the requirements are literally just a front light, a license plate light, and a horn....then go to AutoZone and pick up a 50w halogen fog lamp and a 12v white LED marker light, get any horn from any bike at the junkyard, and wire them in. Lights go directly to the battery through a switch (radio shack $2.99 toggle) mounted somewhere convenient, horn does the same but through a button. Not super difficult. However, I bet the regulations also require a tail light, brake light, and four-way turn signals, with the appropriate control systems, and that's a lot more of a pain in the rear end to wire up if you don't have them already.
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Jun 20, 2016 03:02
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Sagebrush posted:If the requirements are literally just a front light, a license plate light, and a horn....then go to AutoZone and pick up a 50w halogen fog lamp and a 12v white LED marker light, get any horn from any bike at the junkyard, and wire them in. Lights go directly to the battery through a switch (radio shack $2.99 toggle) mounted somewhere convenient, horn does the same but through a button. Not super difficult. It does need a tail light/brake light. No turn signals according to MN. I must have not realized, but do they not come with a brake light? It was a passing whimsy more than anything. Though I assume a brake light switch on a banjo bolt would be easy... https://dps.mn.gov/divisions/dvs/forms-documents/Documents/MV-Certification-Checklist-Off-Road-Motorcycles.pdf
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Jun 20, 2016 03:50
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gently caress it, too much effort, just skip the RM450 and get a CR500.
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Jun 20, 2016 04:34
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Dutymode posted:It looks like the fork tubes are just slid up. 4" is a lot, a quick Google only gave me one link that'll do this, this adjustable one - https://www.amazon.com/Soupys-KLR650-Double-Style-Lowering/dp/B00INCJAQM Good call on the stand, I don't know. Going to call him tomorrow and get more info/throw a lowball.
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Jun 20, 2016 05:34
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TheFonz posted:It does need a tail light/brake light. No turn signals according to MN. I must have not realized, but do they not come with a brake light? It was a passing whimsy more than anything. Though I assume a brake light switch on a banjo bolt would be easy... I think this is generally what folks do: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1156/42562/Sicass-Racing-Lighting-Kit-With-Turn-Signals I don't know specifically about Suzuki or Kawasaki but you can make most of the KTM 350/450/500s and the wr450 street legal with those.
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Jun 20, 2016 12:42
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Melted some velcro from my pants onto exhaust link pipe  any way to get it off?
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Jun 21, 2016 19:28
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My google-fu tells me this happens a lot; the two most popular options are nail polish remover, or get it back up to melting point and wipe it off. Velcro is usually made of nylon and/or polyester, if that gives you any ideas of your own.
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Jun 21, 2016 19:51
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I've had success with ice and a vinyl paint scraper/fiberglass resin spreader.
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Jun 21, 2016 19:57
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Renaissance Robot posted:My google-fu tells me this happens a lot; the two most popular options are nail polish remover, or get it back up to melting point and wipe it off. I melted some nylon straps from a backpack on the DRZ exhaust. I heated it back up and wiped. Seemed to work fine.
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Jun 21, 2016 20:14
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This is good to know, as the header on my WRx routinely claims bits of gear, motorcycle covers, etc. I just let it burn away, but there is always residue. I suppose a non synthetic rag like cotton is good enough to wipe it away?
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Jun 21, 2016 20:42
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I noticed it while the bike was running (during a 250 mile ride) and it wouldn't wipe off. Will def try the other suggestions though. Probably time for a lovely lil heatshield there
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Jun 21, 2016 20:42
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