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BlackIronHeart posted:Maybe polyurethane resin? It's sandable, should stick to anything and you can get it at any hardware/big box store. Good Idea. Resin applies nice and thin so it will do a great job at filling in small holes like that, but you'll probably want to put on a couple of layers to really nail it. It'll take a while to dry (especially if wherever you live is humid), but it's probably your best bet. McKilligan fucked around with this message at 13:43 on Jun 23, 2016 |
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Jun 23, 2016 13:39
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At most art stores you can buy stuff called 'molding paste' that you can spread onto fill small holes and seams. It dries fairly quickly and it can be sanded and trimmed when dry. Resin would also be totally fine, but is probably a little more trouble to work with.
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Jun 23, 2016 14:39
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blastron posted:bubble trouble What about a spray filler primer? You'd probably have to do a shitload of coats but it definitely sands well and it'd be faster, smoother application than a lot of stuff. I use a Rustoleum one for smoothing worbla
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Jun 23, 2016 15:34
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Thanks everyone! I live in walking distance to Blick, so I'll try molding paste first, then filler primer if I can't make the paste work. How would I go about applying resin? Would I be looking for something goopy enough that I could apply it using a throwaway brush and just commit myself to the idea of doing some hardcore sanding to get it back into shape?
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Jun 23, 2016 16:27
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I'd kinda stay away from the mod podge stuff. It'll dry, but it won't be something you can sand. Well, you CAN sand it but it'll take it all off. It's basically like thick acrylic paint that seals stuff.
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Jun 23, 2016 19:01
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Woohoo, just got my sample embroidery for my Fallout jacket from my emb guy at work!   I'm gathering materials for my Fallout props right now and I'm aiming to do an actual armor set of some kind for spring but I'm pretty excited to have a lazy costume to wear in the meantime. Super happy with how these are going to be once I get the actual fabric. Also ordering parts for the Shishkebab has resulted in just a shitload of really bizarre packages like conduit straps, bike brakes, etc. arriving at my apartment all week, it's delightful.
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Jun 23, 2016 22:08
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That is rad and perfect.
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Jun 23, 2016 23:02
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:I'd kinda stay away from the mod podge stuff. It'll dry, but it won't be something you can sand. Well, you CAN sand it but it'll take it all off. It's basically like thick acrylic paint that seals stuff. Mod Podge can be wet sanded to some extent; you just need to have a good thick layer put down, first. Speaking of Mod Podge, I used some to seal the handle for a dumb thing I just made in two days:  (boyfriend for scale) I'll take better pics later. It's a Catspaw weapon from Monster Hunter. These are normally wielded by Melynx, though a bigger "Paw Punch" version can be wielded by your Felyne Comrades.   I'll be running around with it (and my kigurumi) at Too Many Games this weekend. Kigurumi...the laziest cosplay. my cat is norris fucked around with this message at 13:53 on Jun 24, 2016 |
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Jun 24, 2016 13:46
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:I'd kinda stay away from the mod podge stuff. It'll dry, but it won't be something you can sand. Well, you CAN sand it but it'll take it all off. It's basically like thick acrylic paint that seals stuff. I don't know what modpodge is, I was talking about this stuff. I don't know if it's a similar product. I have used it on a variety of projects for fililng, shaping, and finishing, and I've been able to sand and file it without any problems. Although granted, none of them were as large as covering the whole blade of that weapon. It is very easy to work with though.
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Jun 24, 2016 15:37
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Modge Podge is just an acrylic paint style sealer. You mentioned looking for something like that to use, I was just warning you it might not work well 
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Jun 24, 2016 16:00
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More pics of my deadly weapon: http://imgur.com/a/MR5Mc I'm kind of playing catch-up to the thread, so let me just put it out there in summary style -- all of your costumes are looking GREAT. Between the Diablo 3 badassery and the Rainbow Brite cuteness, I'm seriously impressed by the work on exhibit this past month. Good work, thread!
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Jun 24, 2016 19:31
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That cat's paw is so cute-it nails a really 'cartoony' (in a good way--bright, bold) look with the wood grain and big poofy shape. Kira's all finished:  Are you a man of the land? Or a man of the sea? Loving my weird flappy pockets. My sneaks do match the royal blue trim, the lighting is just bad here. Now I'm working on Killer Queen, which I think I'm going to make into a stuffed animal backpack a la these 90's monstrosities:  Because a pink muscley S&M cat is going to look really funny like that. And I won't have to carry it. And I can put stuff inside. Thinking of making some stuffed Rokkaka fruit to give out too. Anyone else going to Otakon? I ended up pulling the trigger to go because I also scored a tattoo appointment with Brett Burnham in Baltimore the Thursday before. It's going to be a heck of a weekend! Here's hoping I don't goo all over my costumes/pass out.
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Jun 27, 2016 14:21
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Goldaline posted:Kira's all finished:
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Jun 28, 2016 03:52
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I ran a testeroo with some thibra Arda sent me to monkey around with and I thought the results were pretty cool: L>R: vacuum form buck (rigid sculpt), styrene machine pull, thibra hand pull I got out my old Sister of Battle vacuum form buck, greased it up, and tried to see how good of results I could get by basically manually vacuumforming with thibra sheet. It was super quick, I did this in like 10 minutes and I think I could have gotten the details a little nicer/sharper if I'd put a few more minutes of smoothing in. You DEFINITELY need to grease the base piece well (I just used vaseline) and next time I'd work middle-out Pied Piper style to get the air out easier but I think I'd be able to replicate my whole suit this way.
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Jun 28, 2016 17:11
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blastron posted:
Try Bondo glazing putty. They sell it next to the regular Bondo, but it's much thinner and faster curing to level out these kinds of imperfections, scratches, etc. There's one version that you don't even need to mix with hardener.
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Jun 28, 2016 17:13
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Some progress on the smoke machine: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vVANpPrLE_o https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2r0uSXNcbF0
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Jun 28, 2016 17:21
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Here's a test running the tube through one of the bracers https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qARjvUBNZrs
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Jun 29, 2016 18:24
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McPantserton posted:What about a spray filler primer? You'd probably have to do a shitload of coats but it definitely sands well and it'd be faster, smoother application than a lot of stuff. I use a Rustoleum one for smoothing worbla McPantserson has the right answer here. You still might need something more putty-like to fill in the larger chunks, but there's nothing better than a heavy, high-fill spray primer to combat pinholes in resin casts. I've always used Duplicolor automotive primers, but really anything that's labeled as sandable should do the trick. I've gone through more cans of that stuff in the past than I'd even care to count. I know you were trying to cut some corners with the plaster mold, but if you're going to do anything like that in the future, you might consider making a jacketed silicone mold. You paint the master with thicker brushable silicone (ideally, anyway, but if you're careful and patient you can use any type) to capture the detail and provide a nice release surface, and then jacket it with plaster or fiberglass to provide rigidity. There are a ton of tutorials out there for it. I've done it in the past for thick and odd-shaped objects that would have required a financially improbable amount of straight silicone just to make a simple 2 part mold.
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Jul 1, 2016 14:40
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Tamir Lenk posted:Here's a test running the tube through one of the bracers That looks so freakin' cool Finally making a plaster cast of my face this weekend, so hopefully I can get started on my mask for real.
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Jul 1, 2016 23:34
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The waffling is beginning!  Top is cut, but with interfacing still attached, bottom is with interfacing washed away, and to the right is just pinning the sleeve together to see how it looks and drapes. So pleased with how this worked out! I've done some cut away applique work with stretch mesh before, but only for small details, not an all over pattern like this. Wasn't sure if there would be shifting, or if the mesh was sturdy enough to back a whole garment. I also only used it with spandex, and this is sweatshirt fleece-was a little uncertain if the difference in fabric weight would screw things up. But it seems ok! A little bit linty/fluffy, but I'll throw it in the wash once it's all together. Now just another sleeve, a front and back, and then the horrible task of trying to get this grid all lined up when I sew it together. Lots of basting will be involved.
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Jul 7, 2016 18:07
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   The full cosplay isn't ready yet (my roommate is going to do a full pink cutie-pie Reaper), but I've got some more process photos here if anyone wants to see them
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Jul 13, 2016 16:19
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Can anyone recommend a good contact cement for foam crafting in the UK? Barge seems to be the go-to in the US but I've not found a good supplier here for a remotely reasonable price. Wanna do my next build with contact cement rather than hot glue.
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Jul 15, 2016 20:12
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thespaceinvader posted:Can anyone recommend a good contact cement for foam crafting in the UK? Barge seems to be the go-to in the US but I've not found a good supplier here for a remotely reasonable price. Dap Weldwood Contact Cement is what I use. Might be able to find it cheaper where you are. It's in most hardware stores.
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Jul 16, 2016 02:50
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I've come across that one too. http://www.screwfix.com/p/evo-stik-528-industrial-contact-adhesive-transluscent-amber-2-5ltr/42076#product_additional_details_container this seems to be the best one I could find.
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Jul 16, 2016 12:24
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I'm in a bit of a panic because the costume I'm prepping for ComicCon next week is having some adhesive problem. I have a professionally printed vinyl sticker that's on top of glossy spray painted wood (with clear coat on top of the paint). The problem is that the sticker is coming up in the corners. Does anyone know a good glue to use to get it fixed?
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Jul 17, 2016 02:28
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TheSlowestZombie posted:I'm in a bit of a panic because the costume I'm prepping for ComicCon next week is having some adhesive problem. Quick coat of Mod Podge or pva over the top would probably do. Or even just gloss varnish.
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Jul 17, 2016 13:22
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thespaceinvader posted:Quick coat of Mod Podge or pva over the top would probably do. Thanks! I'm good to go now. 
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Jul 17, 2016 22:06
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That's amazing.
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Jul 18, 2016 04:02
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 Amazing work.
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Jul 18, 2016 14:07
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But, is it playable?
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Jul 18, 2016 14:21
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You can press the buttons, and there are animations on the screen (the small inner display is an iPad). Not cause and effect, but then again the original game was barely any better.
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Jul 18, 2016 17:47
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TheSlowestZombie posted:You can press the buttons, and there are animations on the screen (the small inner display is an iPad). Not cause and effect, but then again the original game was barely any better. Sounds simply brilliant.
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Jul 18, 2016 18:07
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TheSlowestZombie posted:Thanks! I'm good to go now. Awesome costume. Neat Idea Hope you don't need to grab anything...
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Jul 19, 2016 02:41
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I hope you wore it just like that, shorts, flip flops and all.  Finished with my waffleshirt! It was a real hand cramping pain, but all those matched up seams just make it so worth it.  And this shittily bedazzled cell phone, which is about as advanced a prop as I've ever made. It should probably be a Razr or something, but this was the best flip phone I could find.  Thankfully it being lovely (and misspelled?) is canon... Still figuring out Killer Queen. It might just have to be a regular stuffed animal, I can't make the backpack bit work.
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Jul 22, 2016 00:05
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Goldaline your sewing perpetually blows my mind  Here's what I've been working on, a pile of garbage stuck together:  The fake propane bottle was originally a can of air freshener  and when I went to empty it I deffffinitely accidentally discharged the entire can onto my own face (broke off the nozzle by mistake, decided to hammer a nail in the top while leaning really far away, face: meet air freshener). Smooth move, McP. I spent a bunch of time finding the full brand name and logo for the propane label and had custom stickers printed too, but I couldn't see the tagline in any of the art/renders so I made up my own. I am so excited for this fuckin' thing. 
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Jul 23, 2016 04:47
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I'm prepping for Halloween, because it's never too early. This year I'm going to make myself and Spaceguns into the Egyptian gods Bast and Anubis. No specific reference images, there's a lot of fan art out there and they're all wildly different other than "jackal head" and "cat head." I still have no idea how I want to do Bast, so I started with Anubis. To avoid a stubby neck, I opted to build it on a baseball cap instead of as a mask. The angles make it look a bit like a duck, but it's a start:    I haven't used LEDs for costuming before, so I got a strip on Amazon that has a lot of variations for color, brightness, and glow pattern, and so far it seems to be working. I'll diffuse the light with folded over packing foam sheets, it looks a little odd in person but photographs really well.  Cheekbones needed some more articulation. And since I might need to get to the lights (duct taped in place) I'm not permanently attaching the cheeks to the rest of the head, just using a bobby pin on the under layer.   And with the ears, it's starting to look more like a jackal and less like a duck. Hooray!  Any suggestions for evening the edges out? I have some hard corners and some uneven places due to the thickness of the foam sheets. I thought I wanted to use wood glue, but I'm not sure it would dry properly if I put it on thick enough to be smooth. Maybe a thin layer of paper clay? I have some Worbla, but I've never used it before and I'm not sure I want this to be my first experience with it.
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Jul 23, 2016 21:33
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Mecha Neko posted:I'm prepping for Halloween, because it's never too early. This year I'm going to make myself and Spaceguns into the Egyptian gods Bast and Anubis. No specific reference images, there's a lot of fan art out there and they're all wildly different other than "jackal head" and "cat head." Assuming it's foam, go over it all with a heat gun, then as many layers of 50:50 PVA/white glue and water as you have time for. And you should be able to use a dremel sanding drum or just sandpaper elbow grease and time to smooth any sharp edges.
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Jul 23, 2016 23:01
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For PAX Which brings me to my question: Does anyone have any tip 'n tricks to wearing a rubber (latex and/or silicone) masks for extended periods of time? Both are very non-breathable and are likely to have terrible sight holes. My ideas to address the sweatyness are: - Baby powder - Wear hood as a lining - Jury rig a small computer fan to pull air through the mask running off batteries. A quick check on Digikey shows a 25mm square fan moves ~2CFM which seems like plenty, and pulls 75mA at 5V which is very reasonable for 3 AA batteries in series. Correct me if I'm wrong and about to burn myself.
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Jul 24, 2016 02:19
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PSA post: had to evacuate due to a wildfire. Last thing I grabbed was my cosplay stuff because it's packed in boxes and easy to grab. Always keep the stuff you've spent hundreds of hours on in an easy-to-grab case and place just in case, yo. Pictured: the things that couldn't go in boxes in the bed of the truck, my Wolf Beil axe, and the dog.  (We're going home tonight, house escaped the fire by about a quarter of a mile. Good job LACFD.)
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Jul 24, 2016 20:36
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Rodenthar Drothman posted:PSA post: had to evacuate due to a wildfire. Last thing I grabbed was my cosplay stuff because it's packed in boxes and easy to grab. Glad your house was saved. Your dog is adorable  .
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Jul 25, 2016 00:41
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