|
Took a real nice long ride today, except for when I pulled off the highway my steering was insanely tight and hard. I thought I had a flat so I pulled over but my tires were fine, but it's just really hard to turn the bars - basically feels like my steering damper is turned up to 11. I assume my headstock bearing is shot from going wheelietown USA too much? Bike is an '07 Tuono. Also how many beers of a job is replacing/repacking the bearing? Any specialized tools I'll need?
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 03:42
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 5, 2024 20:11 |
|
|
What are the symptoms of a clogged fuel filter and TPS dying? My Vstrom is randomly bucking like a bronco and I'm trying to figure out why. Throttle bodies are good, gonna get some carb cleaner to spray on and look for leaks though. Vacuum hoses and connections looked good but I'm going to go over it again. I'm going to do a fuel flow test and see how that fairs. I also had a error for my TPS and it went away when I restarted the bike..? The bucking is random. I rode to work today and back from wendys no issue, but halfway to Wendy's it started doing it and stopped before I got there. It seems going faster/into higher rpm helps stop the bucking.
Schroeder91 fucked around with this message at 05:14 on Jul 13, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 05:12
|
|
|
Voltage posted:Took a real nice long ride today, except for when I pulled off the highway my steering was insanely tight and hard. I thought I had a flat so I pulled over but my tires were fine, but it's just really hard to turn the bars - basically feels like my steering damper is turned up to 11. I assume my headstock bearing is shot from going wheelietown USA too much? Lift the front, can you rock the forks forward and backward? Replacing the bearings isn't difficult, getting the races out can be a pain if you don't have like a pipe to stick in to hit with or something. Schroeder91 posted:What are the symptoms of a clogged fuel filter and TPS dying? My Vstrom is randomly bucking like a bronco and I'm trying to figure out why. Throttle bodies are good, gonna get some carb cleaner to spray on and look for leaks though. Vacuum hoses and connections looked good but I'm going to go over it again. I'm going to do a fuel flow test and see how that fairs. I also had a error for my TPS and it went away when I restarted the bike..? The bucking is random. I rode to work today and back from wendys no issue, but halfway to Wendy's it started doing it and stopped before I got there. It seems going faster/into higher rpm helps stop the bucking. Have you checked to see if the fuel line is pinched?
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 05:31
|
|
|
Gorson posted:Is that the pad material, separated from the backing plate? Best case, yes. I'm pretty sure the backing plate hasn't QUIIIIITE touched the rotor yet, so we're fine, right?
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 05:50
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:
I had taken the tank off already and it didn't look pinched. I didn't inspect it either though. When I do the fuel flow test I'll inspect it then. No bucking on the way home from work today though. It just seems so weird to be so intermittent.
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 06:21
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:I want to do the electrolytic rust removal thing on one of my tanks. I understand the method in general but I have a few detail questions. 1. I think the battery charger is better because it regulates its output while the battery just gives all it's got. The fluid is very conductive, I think the 4300 mA will be plenty. 2. Sodium carbonate, aka washing soda. 3. No idea. Electrolysis leaves a deposit, so if it's rusty it would be best to remove it and pick at it manually anyway. Ola fucked around with this message at 07:33 on Jul 13, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 07:31
|
|
|
Ola posted:1. I think the battery charger is better because it regulates its output while the battery just gives all it's got. The fluid is very conductive, I think the 4300 mA will be plenty. Awesome, thanks! One follow up question: I have an industrial quantity of baking soda I bought for soda blasting experiments (which works extremely well btw, A+ would cover myself in white powder again), would that be a decent substitute or am I going to have to fork out another twenty bucks at the bulk supplies shop?
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 07:34
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:baking soda Figure out the chemistry first! Maybe a lovely gas comes out of the reaction. Soda wash makes hydrogen gas, which can be bad enough indoors, salt makes chlorine gas which is just not nice anywhere. I'm sure someone has posted it somewhere googlable. E: This one says yes http://www.spaco.org/Blacksmithing/Rust/BakingVsWashingSoda.htm Ola fucked around with this message at 07:51 on Jul 13, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 07:44
|
|
|
Ola posted:Figure out the chemistry first! Maybe a lovely gas comes out of the reaction. Soda wash makes hydrogen gas, which can be bad enough indoors, salt makes chlorine gas which is just not nice anywhere. I'm sure someone has posted it somewhere googlable. Excellent. He even says that the anode buildup is less flaky and chunky on the baking soda. I'll try it this weekend and see what happens.
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 08:44
|
|
|
In my experience, washing soda works significantly better. But, you need to coat that metal surface ASAP before it oxidizes again, which happens really quick.
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 14:49
|
|
|
So what's so good about Rekluse clutches?
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2016 17:08
|
|
|
The bike never stalls - even when you drop it and you don't have to worry about modulating the clutch to get up hills or anything else. It's basically the nicest thing ever for offroad riding, especially for those of us that are vertically challenged.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2016 17:26
|
|
|
Thanks. Turns out there's not one for the DR350. New question: owner's manual recommends DOT4. Any reason I can't replace it with DOT3?
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2016 00:33
|
|
|
There's like no cost difference, and 4 is better. Why? Also seals are formulated for different fluids, hence why you can't put 5 in some older cars (silicone vs petroleum base).
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2016 00:36
|
|
|
Geirskogul posted:There's like no cost difference, and 4 is better. Why? Also seals are formulated for different fluids, hence why you can't put 5 in some older cars (silicone vs petroleum base). Because I have a bunch of unopened DOT 3 for my truck and other bike.
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2016 00:53
|
|
|
How old is this dot 3? Brake fluid is trash after a few years whether it's been opened or not, I can't imagine you bought some dot 3 off the shelf just a few months ago.
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2016 03:37
|
|
|
HenryJLittlefinger posted:Thanks. Turns out there's not one for the DR350. Apparently the DRZ400 rekluse works in the DR350.
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2016 03:48
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:How old is this dot 3? Brake fluid is trash after a few years whether it's been opened or not, I can't imagine you bought some dot 3 off the shelf just a few months ago. Couple weeks. I'm doing the brakes and clutch on my truck soon and picked up a couple of the quart sized bottles and figured I'd do the bikes while I was at it. I'll do the right thing. It's cheap enough. I'm just trying to get this bike up and running for under $1000 including registration and the purchase price. It's gonna be close. HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 03:59 on Jul 15, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2016 03:56
|
|
|
HenryJLittlefinger posted:Couple weeks. I'm doing the brakes and clutch on my truck soon and picked up a couple of the quart sized bottles and figured I'd do the bikes while I was at it. You can buy DOT 3 in a store? 
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2016 03:57
|
|
|
Is this some sort of bizzaro world thing where you don't have that in the Southern Hemisphere? Like even relatively modern cars say Dot3 only on the reservoir caps.
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2016 04:02
|
|
|
I'm considering installing a modest set of risers on my f4i, Im a pretty short dude and Im getting a little bit of neck fatigue riding. The riser options are really varied, some are full replacement bars, some are adjustable, some are little teardrop shaped things. I'm going to give it a few more thousand miles to get stronger and break myself in to the new riding position, but if that doesn't quite do it, any suggestions for bar riser/modification? I remember an informative z3n post about clipons and risers but I cant remember where I read it.
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2016 04:03
|
|
|
I haven't seen a car with DOT3 on the reservoir newer than early 2000's and I haven't seen dot 3 in a store ever. Like, it was dot 4 even when I got into fooling around with cars ~12 years ago 
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2016 04:04
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:I haven't seen a car with DOT3 on the reservoir newer than early 2000's and I haven't seen dot 3 in a store ever. Like, it was dot 4 even when I got into fooling around with cars ~12 years ago  Last car I had with a DOT 3 requirement was my 1988 Delta 88.
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2016 11:26
|
|
|
I got into riding impulsively in 2012 and bought a 2003 SV650s, rode it around and had fun, then fell out of it. The bike sat for years under a cover in my yard with (thank god) stabilized fuel in the tank. I've already: -siphoned out all the old gas and replaced it (there's zero rust in the gas tank) -changed the oil + filter -flushed and replaced the coolant -bled the brake lines -cleaned and lubed the chain -put a new battery in It started first try with no struggling or straining, and I rode it around the neighborhood a bit. The tires are slightly uneven thanks to sitting for so long (probably should be replaced) but other than that it felt fine. What else I should do/have done to make sure this thing is safe and roadworthy? Also, the bike has some tiny specks of rust between the forks on the textured metal. Short of taking it off and re-spraying it, is there any way to get it off?
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2016 22:17
|
|
|
I assume by textured metal you're referring to the lower triple? It's entirely possible to take it off but you can only really do it properly by taking the whole front end apart, that triple is painted and rusts through because suzuki. You could try scotchbrite and some wd40 but I wouldn't get my hopes up. FWIW it would look like that even if you had ridden the bike regularly and kept it indoors the entire time; I've never seen an SV that didn't have a rusty lower triple. Definitely replace the tyres! The chain is probably hosed from sitting that long unless it was very well protected, check it for tight spots and binding and stuff.
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2016 22:24
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:I assume by textured metal you're referring to the lower triple? It's entirely possible to take it off but you can only really do it properly by taking the whole front end apart, that triple is painted and rusts through because suzuki. You could try scotchbrite and some wd40 but I wouldn't get my hopes up. FWIW it would look like that even if you had ridden the bike regularly and kept it indoors the entire time; I've never seen an SV that didn't have a rusty lower triple. quote:Definitely replace the tyres! The chain is probably hosed from sitting that long unless it was very well protected, check it for tight spots and binding and stuff.
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2016 23:43
|
|
|
Yeah the lower triples go pretty quickly, rust wise. If you really want to fix it, sandblast it and powdercoat it. If you dont want to do that, just learn to not look at it.
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2016 04:48
|
|
|
Wouldn't hurt to do the fork oil if it's never been done but I don't think condensation can build up on the inside and turn into emulsified goo like engine oil so it probably isn't a big deal.
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2016 04:53
|
|
|
Why do Italians call the R1150R a cow? "Mucca" I have my own theories that my wife takes issue with, so I take it to you, the internet.
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2016 05:30
|
|
|
clutchpuck posted:Why do Italians call the R1150R a cow? I don't know, but I'll have a try. Fat, slow and at times moody, but generally a motherly caring beast which you cannot help but love? Heated handgrips as standard, as most milkmaids will attest to? Mostly known for important fluids emerging from its underside?
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2016 05:40
|
|
|
Plus you can eat it if it breaks down, boxer twins are like slow cooked beef.
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2016 06:24
|
|
|
Now explain "Water Buffalo".
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2016 15:48
|
|
|
TheNothingNew posted:Now explain "Water Buffalo". Too lean. But heavy and tough. I would not recommend eating.
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2016 17:12
|
|
|
F4i has clipons above the tree. I bought some risers that are about 1" higher, but I am concerned about the stock fluid reservoir (boxy shape) not having enough clearance. I can mount it at a different angle, as the stock brake line seems to have enough slack. I can also change the angle of the throttle cables, I think. Any issues with changing the angle of the fluid reservoir? I assume it needs to stay somewhat vertical? If the box fluid reservoir cant clear, is there a different one anyone can suggest that might fit better? Worst case I can return these risers, I bought them from STG and those dudes told me I can dry fit them as long as I dont damage them and still return em.
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2016 23:04
|
|
|
TheNothingNew posted:Now explain "Water Buffalo". Much nicer on the menu than IRL. PaintVagrant posted:F4i has clipons above the tree. I bought some risers that are about 1" higher, but I am concerned about the stock fluid reservoir (boxy shape) not having enough clearance. I can mount it at a different angle, as the stock brake line seems to have enough slack. I can also change the angle of the throttle cables, I think. Any issues with changing the angle of the fluid reservoir? I assume it needs to stay somewhat vertical? What do you mean not having enough clearance? Enough clearance in relation to what? The reservoir is designed to accommodate some movement because you're expected to adjust the lever angle to suit your hands and posture, that's why they have the big rubber buffer thing under the cap to take up all the empty air and stop the fluid splashing around and exposing the inlet hole.
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2016 23:14
|
|
|
Yeah I just realized the reservoir and lever are all one piece. Clearance as far as the levers/reservoir not wacking the fairing before full lock.
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2016 23:26
|
|
|
Used 954 master off ebay.
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2016 23:28
|
|
|
'16 Harley street 750 1200 miles Issue: (Sorry for the following, I am not a mechanic or even really mechanically inclined) Clinking and clanking sound coming from the front of the bike. Not engine related, that I can tell, as it only makes the noise when the bike is in motion, but still makes the noise even when I ride the clutch (so I can better hear the issue). Not steering related, as it makes the noise even when traveling in a straight line. I'm thus inclined to think it's the suspension, but idk how to diagnose or... actually, idk what to do period. Hoping y'all might be able to venture a guess, but if not, I'll have to go to the dealer mechanic.
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2016 23:52
|
|
|
The Bananana posted:'16 Harley street 750 I know you said it sounds like it is coming from the front of your bike, but have you made sure your chain is tight enough?
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2016 00:17
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 5, 2024 20:11 |
|
|
It's belt driven Edit: or at least, I don't see a chain. Just the belt used for the final.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2016 00:46
|
|