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Well this isn't going to work, heh
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Jul 17, 2016 01:06
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Mount it under the triple. edit: guess that isn't enough rise for that.
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Jul 17, 2016 01:06
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BlackMK4 posted:Mount it under the triple.
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Jul 17, 2016 01:07
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Or just leave it stock because Honda engineering knows what you need better than you do 
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Jul 17, 2016 02:01
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Or just leave it stock and learn to ride before dicking around with fundamental ergos on a 100% pristine factory bike.The Bananana posted:'16 Harley street 750 Does it get faster as your road speed gets faster?
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Jul 17, 2016 02:09
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The Bananana posted:It's belt driven Then stop complaining about chain noises! 
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Jul 17, 2016 02:39
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It doesn't seem to change with low or high speed.
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Jul 17, 2016 02:53
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Slavvy posted:Goondolences and carry on. From a couple of pages ago, but the correct answer is (4) NONE OF THE ABOVE. Use Evap-O-Rust instead. It's some kind of incredible magic potion that will give you way better results with far less effort. I've tried the electrolytic thing and it does work, but it's annoying. It takes a long time, like several days at 2-3 amps (and going with higher current boils off the electrolyte). The electrode needs to have a line of sight to every part of the tank that you want de-rusted, which means you have to bend up a coat hanger into a complex antenna-like shape, but it can't touch the walls of the tank or it'll short out. The chemical you need to use (sodium carbonate) is hard to find; you can use the washing soda people talk about, or you can get a can of it from a pool supply store. Once the process is done, you still will have a bunch of rust flakes floating around in the tank loose that you'll need to carefully wash out. And finally, it doesn't actually do a perfect job -- there will still be some rust here and there in corners. On a different tank I used Evap-O-Rust, and this is what it involved: - seal up any pipes, vents and fittings on the tank - pour in a couple of gallons of Evap-O-Rust - let sit for 3 hours to overnight, depending on severity of rust - flip tank over to soak the rest of the inside for another 3-12 hours - drain tank into a bottle (the chemical is reusable many times) - done, rust is all gone (it goes into solution) Seriously magic.
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Jul 17, 2016 04:17
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The Bananana posted:It doesn't seem to change with low or high speed. When you say clinking or clanking, what do you mean exactly? How loud, how fast, is it repetitive or is it random, etc? Does it change if you shut the engine off entirely and coast with the clutch in? What if you coast in neutral? Does it change when you apply the front brake lightly? Firmly?
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Jul 17, 2016 04:21
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Sagebrush posted:From a couple of pages ago, but the correct answer is (4) NONE OF THE ABOVE. Use Evap-O-Rust instead. It's some kind of incredible magic potion that will give you way better results with far less effort. I've looked into this but, they expect you to pay $300 for a 5L can of concentrate so I'll take my chances with the washing soda first.
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Jul 17, 2016 04:25
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Don't buy the concentrate -- that's for industrial users. At the proper dilution, the chemical costs about $30 per gallon. Get two gallons and use it to de-rust the gas tank, then keep it and strip the rust on every other rusty metal tool or part you have for the next five years with zero effort. If you ever work on old bikes or like poking around garage sales for tools, it pays for itself in convenience alone.
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Jul 17, 2016 04:29
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The Bananana posted:'16 Harley street 750 It's not your key jangling, is it?
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Jul 17, 2016 04:31
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Slavvy posted:Or just leave it stock and learn to ride before dicking around with fundamental ergos on a 100% pristine factory bike. Its not pristine anymore, I slipped while test fitting the bars and wacked the tank with my wrench. Nice ding in the paint, and I want to die
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Jul 17, 2016 05:17
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Maybe now that it's no longer perfect (it was never perfect it's just a Honda F4 who cares) everyone will shut the gently caress up about how you're going to ruin it and how you're messing with the perfect ergos of a Honda F4. I'm not sure why/how that pictures indicates it's not gonna work though.
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Jul 17, 2016 06:23
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Z3n posted:Maybe now that it's no longer perfect (it was never perfect it's just a Honda F4 who cares) everyone will shut the gently caress up about how you're going to ruin it and how you're messing with the perfect ergos of a Honda F4. People here treat DRZs like relics of the cross, what do you expect?
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Jul 17, 2016 06:27
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Just put dirtbike bars on the thing already, we all end up doing it after we
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Jul 17, 2016 06:31
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Z3n posted:I'm not sure why/how that pictures indicates it's not gonna work though. It's the brake fluid reservoir. It looks like, even with the bars straight, the reservoir would be jutting right into the windshield at that height. Are these universal risers? It seems like an awful rip-off if they were dedicated F4i risers.
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Jul 17, 2016 06:40
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Yo have you thought about mounting them backwards, so the bar sits behind the fork tube instead of in front? So take the one you've got mounted in the picture and try it the same way up but on the left fork tube. e/ or put the other one on the right tube, w/e
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Jul 17, 2016 07:04
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Deeters posted:It's not your key jangling, is it? I really hope it's this because it's funny and also totally something that has happened to me.
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Jul 17, 2016 07:28
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I installed a Power Commander Fuel Controller (PCFC) in my MT-07 today. I have the Akrapovic Titanium system with the baffle in but due to poor research I found out too late that there is no downloadable map for this exact setup. I'll have to run some map that's close enough until my OCD forces me to get it dynoed professionally.
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Jul 17, 2016 12:04
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So quick question, forgive the newbiness. I have recently gotten a new Yamaha TTR250. Starts fine but it doesn't like to idle with the choke fully closed - though i'm not sure i'm giving the engine enough time to warm up before i close the choke. What is the expected behaviour for something like that? And if that is abnormal, what is the first thing to try? Take off the air cleaner and spray a can of carb cleaner down the intake?
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Jul 17, 2016 12:13
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Trambopaline posted:What is the expected behaviour for something like that? Sounds normal as it is. Could be that the idle is set a little bit low (I assume it has a carb). Ride until it's completely warm, then set the idle correctly according to the manual. No engine runs right when it's cold, although that is hidden from you in modern fuel injected engines which adds "choke" automatically.
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Jul 17, 2016 12:36
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Thanks a lot - I'm new to the whole carb lark - it's my first bike and I've never had to think about it before. What's a reasonable amount of time to warm up an engine? Edit: Sorry - should have used more brain and initiative, I gave it a quick google and found a startup checklist to warming up the engine. Trambopaline fucked around with this message at 13:10 on Jul 17, 2016 |
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Jul 17, 2016 12:47
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Sagebrush posted:When you say clinking or clanking, what do you mean exactly? How loud, how fast, is it repetitive or is it random, etc? That's funny you mention that, I actually did that, and took a video, in the hopes I could post it and y'all could listen, but unfortunately, my phone didn't pick it up very well. You can, however, very clearly and distinctly hear the sound of my house key jingling, and it is not the same sound as what I'm hearing. The sounds I'm hearing range from a clanking sound to a metal on metal screech, like... idk, the sound you'd hear if you were turning a large metal wheel valve.
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Jul 17, 2016 13:18
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Z3n posted:Maybe now that it's no longer perfect (it was never perfect it's just a Honda F4 who cares) everyone will shut the gently caress up about how you're going to ruin it and how you're messing with the perfect ergos of a Honda F4. Yeah, I dunno. I am just glad to bring everyone such posting joy As mounted in the pic, they wont clear the windscreen/fairing with the levers and master cylinder mounted. Renaissance Robot posted:Yo have you thought about mounting them backwards, so the bar sits behind the fork tube instead of in front? So take the one you've got mounted in the picture and try it the same way up but on the left fork tube. This is a good question. I tested fitted it that way, it moves the bars back from the stock location but fitment wouldnt be an issue. I searched a bit online and didnt see anyone else that had done it, so I assumed it wasnt a thing people did. I am not sure full lock would clear the tank with them mounted that way to be honest.
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Jul 17, 2016 13:58
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Trambopaline posted:Thanks a lot - I'm new to the whole carb lark - it's my first bike and I've never had to think about it before. What's a reasonable amount of time to warm up an engine? Choke on Start engine Ride to the first stoplight Choke off On really cold days you might have to ride to the second stoplight, but the engine should heat up pretty quickly. The Bananana posted:The sounds I'm hearing range from a clanking sound to a metal on metal screech, like... idk, the sound you'd hear if you were turning a large metal wheel valve. That doesn't sound great, but you may be misinterpreting a normal sound. Can you do the tests I mentioned before (engine off and coasting, use brakes, is it repeating on a cycle or happening randomly, etc) and see if any of those change the sound?
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Jul 17, 2016 14:18
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Gonna have to put a pin in this for now; Time for work. I think I'll err on the side of caution and take my car today. :'(
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Jul 17, 2016 14:57
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Do streets have anti rattle springs on the brakes? Could it be the springs in the forks being noisy? It should be under warranty still right? Is take it in if it really sounds bad.
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Jul 17, 2016 17:03
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Yeah, think I'll schedule a visit with the dealer tomorrow.
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Jul 17, 2016 17:33
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The Bananana posted:Yeah, think I'll schedule a visit with the dealer tomorrow. if the problem is only there when the bike is in motion, do you really think harley mechanics are suited to the task?
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Jul 17, 2016 18:45
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EX250 Type R posted:if the problem is only there when the bike is in motion, do you really think harley mechanics are suited to the task? I assumed they'd take it on a test drive, and I'd tell them to turn it off and let it coast, so they could hear it. Idk, it is still under warranty, so idk why I wouldn't take it to the dealer first, right?
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Jul 17, 2016 18:58
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The Bananana posted:I assumed they'd take it on a test drive, and I'd tell them to turn it off and let it coast, so they could hear it. Idk, it is still under warranty, so idk why I wouldn't take it to the dealer first, right? Yeah take it to the dealership and let them deal with it. PaintVagrant posted:Yeah, I dunno. I am just glad to bring everyone such posting joy Doing ergo changes like this always involves a bunch of trial and error, I'd probably mount them backwards and play with it until they fit (mostly). Installing the type of risers that sit under the OEM bars is much easier than this, though, as you're also going to have to drill the holes for mounting the controls and such.
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Jul 17, 2016 19:48
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Z3n posted:Yeah take it to the dealership and let them deal with it. You think mounting them backwards would be acceptable? I assumed it would change the feel/angle so much that it would be sketchy. I don't see any reason to drill holes, all of the controls are all held on by fasteners as far as I can tell...
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Jul 17, 2016 20:03
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Depends, a lot of them have locating pins that you have to drill holes for.
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Jul 17, 2016 20:15
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BlackMK4 posted:Depends, a lot of them have locating pins that you have to drill holes for. Or snip the pins off and keep the gear on by friction.
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Jul 18, 2016 00:02
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That's one way to do it...
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Jul 18, 2016 00:03
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N is for Nipples posted:Or snip the pins off and keep the gear on by friction. Always ride with a GoPro recording and make sure a loved one has the password to your SA account. Thanks.
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Jul 18, 2016 00:09
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Further dumb newbie question time, how inadvisable is it to ride dot approved knobblies day to day for non highway commuting? I assume they will be chewed up something fast on road but is it dangerous?
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Jul 18, 2016 10:48
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Trambopaline posted:Further dumb newbie question time, how inadvisable is it to ride dot approved knobblies day to day for non highway commuting? I assume they will be chewed up something fast on road but is it dangerous? No, not dangerous. Less grip and higher wear than regular tires, maybe slightly weird steering feel, but no big deal.
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Jul 18, 2016 10:56
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Trambopaline posted:Further dumb newbie question time, how inadvisable is it to ride dot approved knobblies day to day for non highway commuting? I assume they will be chewed up something fast on road but is it dangerous? Depending on the tire, you can get a bit of wobble at speed which can be exciting. They can also have crap traction in the rain. But, I do it and so far it's been ok as long as I remember what I'm riding.
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Jul 18, 2016 11:34
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