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ethanol posted:Not that kind of miss. It pretends I didn't put my foot down and grinds on the shift. Oh. I've had that happen if I don't pull it far enough into gear before trying to release the clutch, but it's never a problem if I'm driving "properly" and not sloppily.
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Aug 20, 2016 23:19
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Coredump posted:I had a grouchy 3rd gear that no lie Amsoil seemed to help with. Plus it gave me speed AND class. Please tell me you put the sticker on your car too 
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Aug 20, 2016 23:40
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Goober Peas posted:6 speed or 5 speed? I had better luck with royal purple and redline on the 5 speeds. 5. The Ford stuff was hard enough to find here, let alone Royal Purple or Redline, so I'll probably just stick with it for a while. It does get much better once the tranny is warmed up
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Aug 21, 2016 00:19
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Framed the Mona Lisa today. My wife is going to be thrilled.
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Aug 21, 2016 00:29
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blk posted:Framed the Mona Lisa today. My wife is going to be thrilled. Where can I buy this?
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Aug 21, 2016 02:04
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Rhyno posted:Where can I buy this? That's exactly what I wanted to know! Here you go! http://petrolsupplyco.com/products/mazda-mx-5-miata-generations-automotive-art-print?variant=4426057412 Edit: I'm not sure if I prefer the light or dark background. Atomizer fucked around with this message at 04:06 on Aug 21, 2016 |
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Aug 21, 2016 04:02
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Coredump posted:I had a grouchy 3rd gear that no lie Amsoil seemed to help with. Plus it gave me speed AND class.
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Aug 21, 2016 05:19
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blk posted:Framed the Mona Lisa today. My wife is going to be thrilled. Cars aren't at the same scale, enjoyment ruined 
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Aug 21, 2016 23:32
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My NA had been left outside unused for just over a week. When driving it back home, after about 40km of driving (mostly at between 80-120km/h) I hit some slow traffic and noticed a faint "jerking" slowing the car down. I stopped, expecting a damaged tire or something, and found that the left front brake was awfully hot. Not burning hot, but it had that clear "race smell" (this was a few minutes after I had been at any proper speed so it probably cooled a bit). It was clearly braking when it shouldn't, and when it was at its worst what I felt was it braking unevenly over the turn of the wheel. Let it cool off, and drove the remaining 30km home away from the highway and occasionally stopped and checked on it. It never got quite as hot again, but still warmer than the right front. During no point in this did the brakes feel any different from normal, and I felt no vibrations in the wheel or pedal. I went through the brakes last summer (new pads+rotors, fluid, hoses, greased slider pins) but since then it's seen 3 track days and ~1500km. I'm away from the car for yet another week, but when I get back there's just a few days between me and another track day. I'll have time to deal with it, as long as I prepare a bit parts-wise (as in "order poo poo from abroad with 1-2 weeks delivery time"). What are the chances of this just being a case of somehow seized slider pins? Should I suspect a stuck caliper piston? It doesn't quite seem like the other cases of stuck slider pins I've encountered (on non-Miatas). I could take out the caliper and change seals and whatnot, but I would rather have done that in peace and quiet during the winter than in any kind of hurry.
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Aug 22, 2016 07:08
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I was just about to post something about my 6-speed NC 2nd gear sucking, too. Mine is very difficult to get into 2nd for the first few miles or so every morning. This morning I told it to go gently caress itself and was just skipping 2nd entirely. Will try a different fluid. Does this seem like a reasonable price if I can't find it locally?
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Aug 22, 2016 13:17
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Ionn: I had a stuck caliper on my rear wheel that wasn't noticeable while driving, but the heat coming off of it was palpable just standing next to it. It was like 30 bucks for a new one, well worth the peace of mind to replace it.
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Aug 22, 2016 13:32
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A new or even refurbished caliper is basically a last resort option, as they're not too easily found where I live (Sweden), and obviously not very cheap to ship. I think the rear calipers are shared with some 323's that are more common here but the fronts are all different looking. Will give it a look though. Also from what I've seen on other cars, rears are more likely than fronts to go "irreparably bad" due to the handbrake crap.
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Aug 22, 2016 14:22
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Crap. Living in Sweden is probably much different than over here. Parts are cheap and plentiful in the US. Good luck!
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Aug 22, 2016 14:29
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I wouldn't bet on the rear calipers being the same, even though you're having an issue with the front.
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Aug 22, 2016 14:32
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krnhotwings posted:Hmmm, got an NC? My NC's 3rd gear doesn't like being short-shifted anywhere under 4k when the transmission's cold. But when it's nice and hot, no issues. I actually don't have a Miata at the moment. Usually I'm talking about my 240sx when I mention car stuff. 
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Aug 22, 2016 14:38
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ionn posted:A new or even refurbished caliper is basically a last resort option, as they're not too easily found where I live (Sweden), and obviously not very cheap to ship. I think the rear calipers are shared with some 323's that are more common here but the fronts are all different looking. Will give it a look though. I don't know if the parts would be easier to source but if you have the tools and the inclination to do a rebuild, the front brakes are just a single o-ring plus dust boot, no fancy mechanisms, pretty easy. (compared to the rears at least)
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Aug 22, 2016 15:09
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ionn posted:A new or even refurbished caliper is basically a last resort option, as they're not too easily found where I live (Sweden), and obviously not very cheap to ship. I think the rear calipers are shared with some 323's that are more common here but the fronts are all different looking. Will give it a look though. Just take the fronts apart and clean/re grease everything. If the pistons aren't leaking they should be fine. After all that if you're still having issues you'll probably need a rebuild or new calipers. FreelanceSocialist posted:I was just about to post something about my 6-speed NC 2nd gear sucking, too. Mine is very difficult to get into 2nd for the first few miles or so every morning. This morning I told it to go gently caress itself and was just skipping 2nd entirely. Will try a different fluid. Does this seem like a reasonable price if I can't find it locally? Yes, I'd just order it from amazon anyway, dealers are gonna charge around 30 a quart.
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Aug 22, 2016 16:19
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The dealer here charged $18 a quart and had plenty so its at least worth calling around.
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Aug 22, 2016 17:45
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What is the most likely source of squealing on startup that goes away after about a minute? Timing belt is way overdue so I'm guessing it's that?
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Aug 22, 2016 18:21
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2001, 220k, LS, 6spd w/ABS. If the interior isn't totally trashed and it's received timing belt changes & stuff on time $2700 seems like a decent price, right?
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Aug 22, 2016 18:31
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Not a bad price, but not a great one. Expect to replace everything made of rubber on the car, but if the tub is straight, it should be good. Are you looking for a DD or a project? Elysium posted:What is the most likely source of squealing on startup that goes away after about a minute? Timing belt is way overdue so I'm guessing it's that? It's the accessory belts. $15 for each one and an hour's worth of messing around.
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Aug 22, 2016 18:43
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Regarding all the rubber - is there a product we should use to keep the various weather stripping/seals/etc in good condition or should I just look forward to replacing it all in a few years?
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Aug 22, 2016 18:53
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Definitely not a DD. Canyons / AutoX / Pinch-hit second-car duty.
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Aug 22, 2016 18:54
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Just scored a Koyo 53mm from a part out. Go away, heat gremlins. FreelanceSocialist posted:Regarding all the rubber - is there a product we should use to keep the various weather stripping/seals/etc in good condition or should I just look forward to replacing it all in a few years? I hit it with the Aerospace 303 just in case it isn't snake oil. I never want to replace all this loving trim and weatherstripping ever again. Literally the worst part of resurrecting this thing.
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Aug 22, 2016 22:09
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https://youtu.be/G8UcdIOm8qc I don't think I've shared my miata since I got done turboing it. 7 psi-ish currently. Rebuilt garret is leaking so I've got a churbo on standby along with a fm 10 lb flywheel and clutch to go in once I quit being so loving lazy.
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Aug 23, 2016 19:28
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crutt posted:https://youtu.be/G8UcdIOm8qc 
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Aug 24, 2016 00:06
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:2001, 220k, LS, 6spd w/ABS. If the interior isn't totally trashed and it's received timing belt changes & stuff on time $2700 seems like a decent price, right? Buy this car. ABS on manuals is rare for some reason.
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Aug 26, 2016 00:10
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Some people hate ABS because it "fails" because it's weird and more annoying to bleed, but once you get in your mind that the lines are longer and that you need to bleed in reverse order it's alright. I spent like 2 hours bleeding a car because I didn't look it up until it didn't get firm after like an hour of bleeding then found out the order is backwards, left to right, not right to left. Edit: It's so unnatural to me I even typed the order wrong the first time I posted. craig588 fucked around with this message at 00:20 on Aug 26, 2016 |
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Aug 26, 2016 00:17
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FatCow posted:Buy this car. ABS on manuals is rare for some reason. Was too slow. 
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Aug 26, 2016 00:25
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I have a manual with ABS (it's some weird euro-edition 1997 that I don't even know what it's called). Didn't notice any particular difficulties when bleeding it, and I had all four calipers off so the brake lines had lots of air in them. Also have never been annoyed by having ABS, it has never kicked and surprised me when I didn't expect it to (except in the wet when it possibly saved me from stacking it at Kallenhard). Only issue I can see is that I don't know if/how I could install a brake balance controller if there's an ABS machine in the way, but I'm not sure if I would have any use for one.
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Aug 26, 2016 14:31
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Hey guys. I need an HVAC high pressure switch for my NB. http://imgur.com/3Jz6NYA Anyone have any idea where I can get it? Miata dealers can't get it any longer.
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Aug 26, 2016 18:37
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AncientTV posted:So this wasn't completely solved by the alignment, and I noticed today while driving behind the car, driven by someone else, that one of the rear wheels has a noticeable oscillation. I'm thinking bent rim? The lugnuts are all torqued properly, so I couldn't really think of what else it could be. So I solved this, it was indeed a bent rim, but then this happened at some point last night   This is the only evidence I have from their car  I figure it has to be something about the same height since there were no scrapes above the quarter panel really, but there's not much to go on AncientTV fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Aug 27, 2016 |
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Aug 27, 2016 15:02
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Aug 27, 2016 15:44
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Brutal
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Aug 27, 2016 17:11
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Partial Octopus posted:Hey guys. I need an HVAC high pressure switch for my NB. MazMart can probably sell you a gently used one. I've only dealt with them in person, but I know they ship things.
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Aug 27, 2016 22:00
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I saw a Miata with a Cummins 4bt this weekend.
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Aug 28, 2016 23:01
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I had a closer look at my brakes yesterday. There was nothing whatsoever wrong with the slider pins, they were both sliding and pinning just fine. The caliper piston however was very reluctant to move. I have got the seal&rubber kit, but after some research it seems some of the internet thinks it's a dumb idea to replace the seal without replacing the piston too. Maybe they can be lightly sanded and fixed up, but maybe not, and I'm not sure I want to take the caliper apart until I know I have a good fix. I did order a pair of pistons too, but I don't know if they'll get here this week. Cost of pistons + seals is still about one third of a pair of remanufactured calipers (with shipping), so I'd rather do the rebuild myself anyway and learn something from it. Also I'm not sure if the new calipers includes the rubber bits for the slider pins either, since those sit in the brackets, so I'm getting more new stuff this way. I managed to push the piston back in (first time using considerable force), and ran it a few times in and out. It's moving better now, and seems fine until it hits that "rough spot" after having come out a bit, which to me is another indication piston probably needs replacing. My pads have about 25-30% life left in them (was intending to replace them after this track day anyway), so unless I get the pistons in time I could just slap new pads on for now and do a proper rebuild later. That would bring the piston in to it's "smooth happy area", and hopefully last me through a track day, but I don't know if there's any damage to the seal (from wear, or the rough heat that got into it last weekend) that might screw me over. If I don't get the new pistons in time (in which case I'll do a proper rebuild), in order to maximize trackday survivability, should I a) just put in new pads to push pistons back into what could be the "safe working area"? b) take caliper apart anyway, replace seal and maybe sand down rusty poo poo and hope that fixes it well enough?
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Aug 30, 2016 07:49
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Buy a new caliper and rebuild that one whenever? Edit: guess you'd eat the core charge, though.
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Aug 30, 2016 13:42
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The difference between "just buy a rebuilt caliper" and "get a rebuilt caliper and send us the old one" from is comparable to what i'd have to pay to ship the old caliper back (since it's all from abroad, and calipers are slightly heavy), so if it were to come to that I would keep the old one anyway. Slightly cheaper to send stuff back if I do both at once (which I would), but the idea of having spares is appealing. Will eventually rebuild them myself (when I have new pistons) and probably only buy another caliper if it is unserviceable, just a question of what I do in the meantime before MONDAY TRACKDAY GO VROOM TIME. Think I'm leaning towards option B, take poo poo apart and do a half-assed rebuild without having a new piston and hope it works out, as I'm not too enthusiastic about going on track with brakes that I don't know how bad they really are (one of them recently having been very very hot). Option B might leave me with a more hosed up caliper I can't get back together or badly leaking, but I'd rather know that beforehand and just skip the trackday than have a brake failure on track that I knew about and didn't even try to fix.
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Aug 30, 2016 14:52
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Do it right or do it twice.
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Aug 30, 2016 15:53
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