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Yeah I've never seen one like this either. Every tutorial on the Internet is for the other kind. The house was built in 1978 so I'm not sure of the manufacturer either.
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Sep 4, 2016 00:27
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Armacham posted:Yeah I've never seen one like this either. Every tutorial on the Internet is for the other kind. The house was built in 1978 so I'm not sure of the manufacturer either. Seems like the stem would still be housed within some part of the cartridge which is still threaded into the valve.
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Sep 4, 2016 00:34
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Looks like a Repcal from my 1950s house. This one is easy. Put the handle back on the stem, don't even need the handle screw, then turn the handle to unscrew the stem out of the wall. Take that stem to the hardware and get both the seat and packing washers for it. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 01:46 on Sep 4, 2016 |
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Sep 4, 2016 01:41
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kid sinister posted:Looks like a Repcal from my 1950s house. This one is easy. Put the handle back on the stem, don't even need the handle screw, then turn the handle to unscrew the stem out of the wall. Cool that's what I thought. I actually tried that a little bit but I met some resistance turning so I wanted to get a second opinion before I put a bunch of elbow grease into it. Edit: This worked. Thanks! I didn't have the right o-rings/ washers on hand, but at least now I can get it apart. Armacham fucked around with this message at 07:52 on Sep 4, 2016 |
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Sep 4, 2016 01:47
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Posted this in the quick question thread, then saw this thread. I've got a plumbing question for you guys. Flushed the toilet, water backs up into the tub. Washing machine backs up into the Tub, second toilet on the same line really slow to drain. Shower, which is on the outside wall drains fine. We are on a septic and when the main line backed up, the shower backed up too, so I know the main line isn't clogged outside of the house. I pulled the second toilet, as it's closest to the outside. Standing water in the pipe, I have a closet auger that I tried to clear, but its not long enough. I also have a smaller longer snake, but it doesn't seem to have any force behind it. ? Do I just need to go rent a motorized one from Home Depot? Is there any chance I can damage my pipes with a motorized one? Any suggestions?
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Sep 7, 2016 22:49
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Chappy posted:Posted this in the quick question thread, then saw this thread. Basement, slab or crawlspace? It sounds like you have a partial clog in (or under) your house somewhere and not on the main line outside. Your descriptions really don't help anyone that doesn't know how your house is laid out. Anyway, I would try figuring out where your stacks are and how they join the main drain going out to the sewer. You would have to do something really stupid with a drum machine to damage your pipes. Basically, the wider the pipe, the wider the sidewall is. The wider the sidewall, the more damage it can withstand.
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Sep 8, 2016 00:19
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kid sinister posted:Basement, slab or crawlspace? It's a crawl space. The toilets and washing machine drain are all in a line. The shower drains fine. Toilet 1 and toilet 2 slow drain Outside Shower Toilet2 Wall Washing machine area Wall Toilet1
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Sep 8, 2016 01:14
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PainterofCrap posted:Yeah, you may have to just cringe & get your hand in there & yank whatever loose from the threshers.  Nope. Can't do it. Take my adult card if you must. I just can't put my hand down a garbage disposal. The smell vanished on it's own while I was away and there aren't any suspicious water puddles or anything, so hopefully whatever it was just decomposed enough to fall down the drain and get washed away next time the sink was run. But thanks for the advice anyway; gives me a direction to go in if the problem ever reoccurs.
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Sep 8, 2016 03:34
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there wolf posted:
Yeah gently caress that noise I'll buy a new one before going down the crazy shredder hole.
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Sep 8, 2016 04:02
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there wolf posted:
...You've never changed a diaper, have you? Once that happens, you'd be surprised what you're willing to willing to touch. Jealous Cow posted:Yeah gently caress that noise I'll buy a new one before going down the crazy shredder hole. If it's corded, unplug it. If it's hard wired, turn the breaker off. Your shredder hole will now no longer grind your hands to stumps. That is assuming that you didn't drop anything sharp down there like broken glass or the top of a can you opened.
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Sep 8, 2016 18:05
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Exclusive photo of kid sinister's spouse.  It's a hole in my sink full of spinning knives. There is nothing that will ever convince me that the moment my hand goes down Maxim Overdrive won't kick in and reduce my digits to a fine slurry.
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Sep 8, 2016 20:04
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there wolf posted:Exclusive photo of kid sinister's spouse. Incorrect, I got like at least 6 or 7 limbs. And they'll never touch this paws, because I know how to pump diesel. Nice reference though.
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Sep 9, 2016 05:20
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there wolf posted:Exclusive photo of kid sinister's spouse. drat, the Shrike. Now I have to dig those out & re-read them.
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Sep 10, 2016 01:51
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PainterofCrap posted:drat, the Shrike. Having recently done this, I don't recommend it.
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Sep 10, 2016 17:21
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Chappy posted:? Make sure you tell the rental company which pipe you are gonna auger. Some depots have a small 1/4" motorized drain cleaner that is not optimal for toilet drains. Also, did you checks your septic tank in case its full and needs to be pumped? I just went through this problem.
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Sep 13, 2016 05:29
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Can anybody help me make sense of my basement bathroom rough-in? This is a two story house, built in 1994. There is what appears to be a shower pit, a stub for a toilet, and then there is a 3.25" PVC pipe as well going up to the first floor, into which a washing machine drains. My biggest question/concern is how the toilet and shower drains vent. I guess they must wet vent through the 3.25" pipe up past the washing machine and into the vent stack. I was also expecting to find a drain pipe for a sink but there is nothing else. My theory is that the 1st floor laundry room was kind of a late adder to the design of the house, and they just ended up tieing the drain for the washing machine into what was supposed to be the vent for the basement bathroom. I think wet venting through the washing machine drain line would probably work since it is a pretty big pipe, but I'm not sure (doubtful) that is up to code...but maybe its fine. Or maybe there is something else I'm missing? 
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Sep 22, 2016 02:11
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Probably posted this in the wrong thread, so many one of you plumbing guys can help. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2734407&pagenumber=436#post464647970 Thanks.
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Sep 26, 2016 02:56
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I have a toilet that is constantly (though very gradually) losing water from the tank to the bowl causing it to trigger the tank to refill several times per hour. I already tried cleaning a little bit of gunk/sediment off of the flapper in case that was causing the flair to not close all the way, but it made no difference. What are the chances that it is the flapper vs. Tank to bowl gasket vs the fill tube thingy that the flapper is attached to? Is it worth it to troubleshoot each part or better to just replace everything?
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Oct 3, 2016 02:54
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Alpine Mustache posted:I have a toilet that is constantly (though very gradually) losing water from the tank to the bowl causing it to trigger the tank to refill several times per hour. Just replace the flapper, it's $1.50
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Oct 3, 2016 03:50
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Alpine Mustache posted:What are the chances that it is the flapper vs. Tank to bowl gasket vs the fill tube thingy that the flapper is attached to? Is it worth it to troubleshoot each part or better to just replace everything? Tank to bowl gasket failure will give you water on the floor when you flush. If the fill tube thing the flapper is attached to is the cause, you should see a very visible crack allowing water to enter the overflow tube. It's the flapper. Buy a new flapper (or a new flapper + fill valve + supply line if you're feeling frisky) and fix it. Michaellaneous posted:I have an issue with removing my dual flush button. It basically looks like this: I know this is a dumb question but are you trying to loosen it from the bottom (inside the tank) part of the lid?
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Oct 3, 2016 08:56
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Alpine Mustache posted:I have a toilet that is constantly (though very gradually) losing water from the tank to the bowl causing it to trigger the tank to refill several times per hour. You most likely need a new flapper. Still, it could be other things. That "fill tube thingy" is called the overflow tube. It's there to prevent a failed fill valve that never stops filling from filling the tank and spilling onto the floor by spilling down that tube and into the bowl instead. How high is the water level in the tank? Is it up to the very top of the overflow tube?
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Oct 3, 2016 17:46
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kid sinister posted:You most likely need a new flapper. Still, it could be other things. That "fill tube thingy" is called the overflow tube. It's there to prevent a failed fill valve that never stops filling from filling the tank and spilling onto the floor by spilling down that tube and into the bowl instead. How high is the water level in the tank? Is it up to the very top of the overflow tube? I'd have to measure it when I get home but I would say it's about an inch to inch and a half from the top of the overflow tube, and maybe 2 - 3 inches from the top of the tank.
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Oct 3, 2016 20:01
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Toilet flushed into my bathroom floor - bathroom floor is sagging pretty bad, I figure it's a damaged joist compounded by foundation issues. Good times! I tried to replace the toilet, found out we had a cast iron flange that was rusted and corroded to poo poo and one of the sides was busted off. I wager it was about 68 years old. Following the recommendation of some youtube videos, I attempted to pry the flange off with a prybar, and used a hammer to break off some sections that were corrosion-welded to the drain pipe. While I was hammering I heard a loud thunk, which I'm pretty sure is a damaged sewer connection. After pouring some water down, I hear the sound of rushing water followed by water hitting my crawlspace. About an inch worth is pooling in the closet bend. So I guess my question is two parts: Will a licensed plumber work on a sagging bathroom floor, and is there any possible DIY solution I could attempt to repair a damaged sewer connection without access to the crawlspace? I'm goonfat and that poo poo's too small for me, so I'd be working from the toilet end.
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Oct 5, 2016 04:47
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Sounds like you need your subfloor repaired and reinforced, then fix the iron pipe, likely replace entire section with PVC. There are many repair options for a broken flange, but no longer useful to you, if the connection further down the line is now broken. Call a licensed contractor.
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Oct 5, 2016 13:53
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I replaced my disposal yesterday and decided to change my dishwasher from draining directly into the drain to draining into the disposal since I have a septic system and might as well grind anything that comes out of it. The transfer went fine, replaced the Y connection with a straight pipe for the original drain, and routed it over to the dishwasher fine with a new hose. I did have a question, though. I left a little slack in the line to make the work a bit easier for the line between the air gap and the disposal. However, as such, it bends down somewhat:  Is that a problem? It'd be easy enough to shorten it up and make it straighter if needed, but if I can, I'll just leave it as is. fake edit: Also the line is a bit squashed from being on the spool. I assume it'll round itself out over time, or do I need to do something to that? real edit: My worry is that water from the left side of the sink with the disposal will drain itself and crud into that dishwasher hose, leading to some nasty smells out of the air gap or disposal. I don't actually know though. Maybe it'd just work like another trap. ssb fucked around with this message at 16:44 on Oct 6, 2016 |
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Oct 6, 2016 16:37
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shortspecialbus posted:I replaced my disposal yesterday and decided to change my dishwasher from draining directly into the drain to draining into the disposal since I have a septic system and might as well grind anything that comes out of it. The transfer went fine, replaced the Y connection with a straight pipe for the original drain, and routed it over to the dishwasher fine with a new hose. That shouldn't be too much of a problem. You can shorten it or work with some zip ties to get it all downhill if possible. However, I see a different problem in your setup. You should really only have one trap with a setup like that.
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Oct 6, 2016 21:06
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kid sinister posted:That shouldn't be too much of a problem. You can shorten it or work with some zip ties to get it all downhill if possible. However, I see a different problem in your setup. You should really only have one trap with a setup like that. For the hose, does it matter enough to do? For the latter, interesting. The house was like that when I bought it. Is it enough of a problem that I should fix it? I haven't noticed any issues or smells from the kitchen sink so far, just the old disposal that literally exploded inexplicably (it had some corn kernels in it, nothing else) and threw some shards of metal from the choppers out of the drain and into the sink. I do have a hosed up back and the less bending down to do plumbing I have to do the better, but I don't want to leave things in a state where they really should be fixed. I'm willing to let "ehhhh" slide probably. Thanks!
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Oct 7, 2016 00:22
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shortspecialbus posted:I replaced my disposal yesterday and decided to change my dishwasher from draining directly into the drain to draining into the disposal since I have a septic system and might as well grind anything that comes out of it. The transfer went fine, replaced the Y connection with a straight pipe for the original drain, and routed it over to the dishwasher fine with a new hose. Shouldn't that outlet back there be a GFCI?
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Oct 7, 2016 00:26
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devicenull posted:Shouldn't that outlet back there be a GFCI? I have no idea. I know it's on its own breaker. Edit: from https://www.nachi.org/garbage-disposals.htm https://www.nachi.org/garbage-disposals.htm posted:The National Electrical Code (NEC) does not require a garbage disposal to have GFCI protection. GFCI protection for this appliance is optional. The septic stuff in that link is interesting. I did buy a "Septic Assist" one to replace the broken one, so hopefully that will help. We've never had a problem and we have to get our tank pumped every 3 years I think by law. ssb fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Oct 7, 2016 |
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Oct 7, 2016 00:49
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devicenull posted:Shouldn't that outlet back there be a GFCI? Disposals no, dishwashers yes. But then you get into the "readily accessible" requirement for GFCIs. Dishwashers are usually put on GFCI breakers for that reason.
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Oct 7, 2016 02:20
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I work in my family's small hardware store and we have a bit of a minor plumbing mystery on our hands. In the back area of the store, we have two small restrooms that contain a standard toilet and sink. After flushing the toilet, the fill valve is stuck closed and refuses to refill unless we turn on the sink water (hot or cold) full blast for at least a split second. We've had one of the local contractor plumbers take a glance at it when he was in for parts, but couldn't come up with a solid answer as to its cause. (For reference, this is the fill valve we sell/utilize in the restrooms: https://www.amazon.com/Fluidmaster-400A-Anti-Siphon-Toilet-Valve/dp/B00002ND6R) We should probably replace the parts anyway due to the incredibly hard water in the region, but out of a mixture of laziness and not wanting to pull product from the shelves, I'm curious if there is a cause that we couldn't think of.
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Oct 7, 2016 14:25
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Sailor Jerry posted:I work in my family's small hardware store and we have a bit of a minor plumbing mystery on our hands. Almost definitely hard water/crusty valve. When you blast the sink it lowers the water pressure enough for the valve to open. You could always pull some CLR off the shelf and dump the entire valve assembly in a buck full of that to try to clean it.
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Oct 7, 2016 15:19
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Regarding my post from yesterday, I shortened the line so it's a downhill slant the entire time. It was easy enough to do. I'm not too keen on changing 2 traps to 1 trap unless it's really important - is it? As stated, I haven't had any issues or smells with that sink except a little lately when the disposal broke and couldn't grind food that got down in it for a week before I replaced it.
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Oct 7, 2016 15:29
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shortspecialbus posted:I'm not too keen on changing 2 traps to 1 trap unless it's really important - is it? As stated, I haven't had any issues or smells with that sink except a little lately when the disposal broke and couldn't grind food that got down in it for a week before I replaced it. Yes, it is. Having 2 traps can cause a situation where if you're draining a lot down one sink bowl, all that water going down can pull enough vacuum to suck the other trap dry, or at least enough water out to leave an air gap. Give us a better picture of the pipes past the marvel adapters and we can tell you exactly what you will need. Sailor Jerry posted:Stuck fill valve I agree with Motronic, the fill valve is nearly stuck. Turn off the water under the tank and check out the fill valve. After you flush, does the float arm go down? If it doesn't, free it up. If it does go down and the tank still doesn't fill, then you'll need to grab a cup. Turn the water off underneath the tank, pry that black cap off the fill valve, twist out the float arm hinge, take the rubber seal out, then with one hand hold the cup over the fill valve and with your other hand turn the water back on. Does water come out yet? If yes, then either the rubber seal was stuck or the float arm hinge wouldn't let it move up. Clean them up, or even replace that rubber seal if you sell those too. You might even see some rubber pieces come out and are now sitting in your tank. If not, your problem lies outside your toilet. Let us know and we can help you troubleshoot that too. If you saw rubber pieces in your tank, let us know that too. Those mean that a seal in the stop valve or supply line under the toilet are starting to fail and need work. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 19:19 on Oct 7, 2016 |
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Oct 7, 2016 18:52
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kid sinister posted:Yes, it is. Having 2 traps can cause a situation where if you're draining a lot down one sink bowl, all that water going down can pull enough vacuum to suck the other trap dry, or at least enough water out to leave an air gap. Bleh, ok. I'll post a pic when I get home. Thanks!
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Oct 7, 2016 19:58
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Pics, mostly the same, but slightly different angles to maybe help with depth perception:   Edit: a couple different angles:   I know I said I did the dishwasher line and I haven't yet. I am going to though. ssb fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Oct 7, 2016 |
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Oct 7, 2016 23:27
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Did your water hammer arrestor fail and start leaking? That's an awful lot of corrosion.
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Oct 7, 2016 23:47
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devicenull posted:Did your water hammer arrestor fail and start leaking? That's an awful lot of corrosion. I have no idea? I've had zero problems with this sink since we bought the house 2.5 years ago, minus the disposal breaking a couple weeks ago. Works great. Edit: we found a dead mouse back there a year ago. I don't think that counts but I'll mention it. We do have rather hard water from the well. We have a softener but I believe it only softens the hot water. Edit 2: I feel the need to say that just because things have been fine doesn't mean I'm unwilling to do necessary preventative maintenance. I just want to make sure things are necessary. Like, I'd replace a marginal strut mount in a car, for example, but I didn't replace the thing in the door that helps hold it in the first open position because it was stupidly expensive and not necessary. ssb fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Oct 8, 2016 |
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Oct 7, 2016 23:53
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shortspecialbus posted:I have no idea? Keep in mind that any water can cause corrosion on bare copper. That water doesn't necessarily have to come from that part, but from something above leaking. So, look up. As for fixing your trap, you should be able to fix this for under $50, so it's not ungodly expensive. Still, your previous plumber didn't leave a lot of slack to work with... What length of pipe is left between that wye and the 45 elbow closest to the wall?
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Oct 8, 2016 00:57
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kid sinister posted:Keep in mind that any water can cause corrosion on bare copper. That water doesn't necessarily have to come from that part, but from something above leaking. So, look up. There's about 2/3" of visible pipe, not counting the screw cap things that I don't know what they're called. I don't see anything above that looks like it leaks. The wood on the bottom of the cupboard there doesn't seem to have any water damage either. The black thing running behind stuff in a vertical loop is the stretch cord for the faucet that pulls out to be one of those handheld sprayers. My best guess would be maybe some water occasionally runs down that and trickles onto it, but that's just a bad guess. If it is, that's riskily close to the outlet although I guess it'd just trip the circuit probably?
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Oct 8, 2016 01:10
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