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gfanikf posted:So this is my current computer build. It somehow runs Battlefield 1 on low. I would like to build a new system eventually, but that might be a few months down the road. I'm wondering if a GTX 1060 (6gb) might help in upping framerates or is the CPU too old that it would essentially bottleneck any improvement from the GPU. Keep mind the GPU would go into the new system. Also I'm not even sure if the Motherboard would work with this GPU. I'd update your PSU if it's old, grab a GTX 1060, a CPU cooler and overclock it. The 2500k is still good today (still rocking mine along with a bunch of folks in this thread) with a simple overclock. Then if you need more ram, you might upgrade to some 16 GB 2133 Mhz if your board supports that speed. With all that stuff though, you could just pay a couple hundred more and get a new processor, mobo and better RAM. Really up to you with what you want to spend. If you just upgraded then the PSU, GPU and CPU cooler could carry over to a new build anyway... if you want to spend less in the short term and upgrade the other stuff later. Only the RAM wouldn't transfer to a new build. Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 17:56 on Oct 28, 2016 |
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Oct 28, 2016 17:53
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HMS Boromir posted:This website is kind of broken for me, might be some kind of region lock, but that looks like it links to a 3GB 1060? UnhealthyJoe posted:Is that a better card overall? poo poo I linked the wrong card https://jet.com/product/PNY-GeForce-gtx-1060-graphics-card-gf-gtx-1060-6-gb-gddr5-pcie-30-x16-dvi-hdmi-3/885e9673216d4f639ae4f4f512375535 But yes it will fit in your setup if you choose that card. It is a better card overall except if you want a freesync, which is just can't do at all. Thanks HMS for psu recommendation
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Oct 28, 2016 17:56
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gfanikf posted:EDIT: I'd also be fine with a bridge card like this one.
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Oct 28, 2016 18:01
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Hi I ran into a problem with one of my hard drives. I bought 2 6 TB WD Blacks and went into windows and created a partition and formatted one of them. The other instead of being a 6 TB partition shows a 500mb partition that is a system drive, a 2 TB partition that it let's me make into a ntfs volume, and 3.5 TB that all the options are greyed out. It won't let me extend the 2 TB volume either. I tried using a external partitioning program and it wouldn't let me make a partition bigger than 2TB either. 
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Oct 28, 2016 18:04
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Grog posted:Yours didn't come with a cooler because there is no stock heatsink with the unlocked Skylake processors. People seem to suggest the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO for us Canadians (seems to be ~$40), because the Cryorig coolers aren't available here. The LED version has far more stock in stores near me. I'd have to travel an hour to get the non-LED version. As far as I can tell it's identical except for the LEDs? Reviews on Amazon are excellent. http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=8_129&item_id=100773
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Oct 28, 2016 18:08
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HMS Boromir posted:If you're going to get a 1050 Ti, don't get that one you linked. There are a couple at $150 which are closer to being good value, that one is only $20 cheaper than a much stronger 3GB 1060. Yeah, based on what people have said I'm going for a 1060 model instead since the other parts won't be an issue. Luckily I only put it on hold at Microcenter vs paying for it. Larrymer posted:I'd update your PSU if it's old, grab a GTX 1060, a CPU cooler and overclock it. The 2500k is still good today (still rocking mine along with a bunch of folks in this thread) with a simple overclock. Then if you need more ram, you might upgrade to some 16 GB 2133 Mhz if your board supports that speed. It's good to know that I actually picked out a good CPU in terms of getting the most use out of it.
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Oct 28, 2016 18:38
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cheesetriangles posted:Hi I ran into a problem with one of my hard drives. I bought 2 6 TB WD Blacks and went into windows and created a partition and formatted one of them. The other instead of being a 6 TB partition shows a 500mb partition that is a system drive, a 2 TB partition that it let's me make into a ntfs volume, and 3.5 TB that all the options are greyed out. It won't let me extend the 2 TB volume either. I tried using a external partitioning program and it wouldn't let me make a partition bigger than 2TB either.
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Oct 28, 2016 18:46
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Twerk from Home posted:Sell your current PC for some pocket change, build an SA Perforamance Gamer from the OP and spend the rest on a really, really nice monitor. 
Butt Ghost fucked around with this message at 19:42 on Oct 28, 2016 |
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Oct 28, 2016 19:01
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penus penus penus posted:poo poo I linked the wrong card haha poo poo. i guess i bought the wrong card then  Hopefully itll still workshould i try to cancel my order and get that one instead? UnhealthyJoe fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Oct 28, 2016 |
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Oct 28, 2016 19:10
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Col.Kiwi posted:Sounds like your drive may be initialized MBR instead of GPT. If you don't need any data that is currently on the drive you can delete all its partitions and convert it to GPT in disk management. Unfortunately from your screenshot it looks like your windows system reserved partition wound up on that drive even though windows is not actually on that drive. If that's the case I think you'll have to repair or reinstall windows. I'd probably unplug the problematic 6TB drive, repair windows with windows install media, plug back in the 6TB drive and make sure boot order is set properly in bios, delete useless partition from the 6TB drive and reinitialize it GPT. Fixed it. I used a partition program to delete the system partition, change it to gpt, then repartition it. Windows wouldn't boot then but it took 30 systems with a install flashdrive to fix the MBR and I didn't have to reinstall windows.
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Oct 28, 2016 19:24
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UnhealthyJoe posted:haha poo poo. i guess i bought the wrong card then Yes you should.
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Oct 28, 2016 19:28
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Cat Army 
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penus penus penus posted:But he wants to do this on the strictest budget possible. It's been so long since I've done a "absolute maximum gaming per dollar at this price with no regards to anything else". I'd strongly suggest a new case as you may or may not get any kind of decent airflow and fans working quietly and efficiently in 'a HP case' - OEMs are notorious for having janky connectors. Of course, it can be sufficient. Your build looks fine in principle but it's skant on details. 16Gb of RAM would be better unless you're right up against a budget. Some titles can be very CPU bound so its hard to suggest if the i3 would be a realistic problem (we just got done discussing civ for instance) but largely the good clock speeds on the 6100 make it very competitive in anything that isn't optimised for 4 cores.
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Oct 28, 2016 19:38
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The Iron Rose posted:Yes you should. Heh well drat. They cant cancel it but I can send it back and then wait for the money to be refunded. Fastest possible will probably be 20+ days. Well I have went a while without a video card. Hopefully there will be a good deal once I get my money back =/ gently caress.
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Oct 28, 2016 19:50
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UnhealthyJoe posted:haha poo poo. i guess i bought the wrong card then Yes! That evga one was 3 gb  Wow now I feel like an rear end in a top hat
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Oct 28, 2016 21:06
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So since ASRock Z170s get a lot of play in here, I decided to hit up their website to find out the differences: http://www.asrock.com/mb/compare.as...odel=Z170+Pro4S "Extreme+" means you get a rather-not-worth-it front panel connector. The Extreme4 seems to be the best balance of value/features. It should be noted that Newegg has a $25 off 200 code at the moment (MPGAMER16 - requires you to use Masterpass to checkout) and the top-of-the-line ASrock board is $244.99 with a $25 rebate. That means you could get it for $194.99. Still pricey for a Z170 board, but it has pretty much every feature you'd want. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 01:06 on Oct 29, 2016 |
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Oct 29, 2016 00:19
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Hey all. My Pro Tools computer is a few years old now. I got a great deal on RAM a few months ago so I jammed 64GB of RAM in there. However Pro Tools is telling me it's running out of processing power. As I said, the computer's a few years old so I'm wondering if it's time for an upgrade. At the moment, I have a 2600k processor in it. Are there any noteworthy upgrades to this processor or should I just be happy with the "charm" that Pro Tools has?
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Oct 29, 2016 00:39
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Is there a place that compares relative GPU performance of mobile GPUs against each other? I'm more curious what the new MacBook Pros GPU performance is comparatively.
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Oct 29, 2016 00:47
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H13 posted:Hey all. Other than a 2600K only being able to address 32GB... http://ark.intel.com/products/52214/Intel-Core-i7-2600K-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-3_80-GHz
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Oct 29, 2016 01:06
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I'm looking for some feedback on this build. My last PC I assembled earlier in the thread (last thread even maybe?) worked great but I wasn't using it much so when my BIL moved out I just let him take it and went back to my 2013 laptop. A lot of my current projects have been revolving around 360 video which while looks great, even in 1080p takes literally a day to render even shorter videos and while I'd like to stop having to downscale all the footage I'm stitching together from 1440 to 1080 on my current best buy budget laptop 1440 would be out of the question for rendering. Just before typing this I checked and a 10 minute 3d video was projected to take over 30 hours before I gave up seeing how far up the timer would go and stopped it. Anyways, money isn't really an issue but I'd prefer to keep it under 2k. I can assemble a pc just fine but I don't know parts very well. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($318.99 @ NCIX US) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($149.99 @ NCIX US) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($191.01 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($94.89 @ OutletPC) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.49 @ OutletPC) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card ($678.99 @ NCIX US) Case: NZXT S340 (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case ($66.99 @ SuperBiiz) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ SuperBiiz) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional Full 32/64-bit ($82.99 @ My Choice Software) Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter ($29.99 @ SuperBiiz) Keyboard: Cooler Master OCTANE Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse ($34.99 @ Newegg) Total: $1803.19 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-10-28 20:05 EDT-0400
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Oct 29, 2016 01:08
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You're going to want at least a 500GB SSD for a boot drive that'll also likely be pulling cache duty for your editing and rendering work. You might even want to consider trying to add a 250GB NVMe drive for that. You have a legitimate use for the 6700K for once, though.
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Oct 29, 2016 01:20
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H13 posted:Hey all. audio normally doesn't need that much power. what kind of hellish effects chains are you running?
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Oct 29, 2016 01:41
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BIG HEADLINE posted:You're going to want at least a 500GB SSD for a boot drive that'll also likely be pulling cache duty for your editing and rendering work. You might even want to consider trying to add a 250GB NVMe drive for that. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($318.99 @ NCIX US) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($149.99 @ NCIX US) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($191.01 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung 950 PRO 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($314.99 @ SuperBiiz) Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 4TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($196.99 @ SuperBiiz) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card ($678.99 @ NCIX US) Case: NZXT S340 (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case ($66.99 @ SuperBiiz) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ SuperBiiz) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional Full 32/64-bit ($82.99 @ My Choice Software) Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter ($29.99 @ SuperBiiz) Keyboard: Cooler Master OCTANE Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse ($34.99 @ Newegg) Total: $2170.79 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-10-28 20:53 EDT-0400 E1:Spelling E2: PCPP noted a compatibility error from the ssd now <The motherboard M.2 slot #0 shares bandwidth with a SATA Express port. When the M.2 slot is populated, one SATA Express port is disabled.> So should I switch motherboards or switch drives? allta fucked around with this message at 02:05 on Oct 29, 2016 |
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Oct 29, 2016 01:59
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The 960 EVO (the 960s are faster successors to the 950s which *are* NVMe drives, and come in EVO and Pro SKUs) is coming out 'soon,' but I'm almost positive that they'll 1) sell out as soon as they hit retail, and 2) are backordered like whoa on Samsung's parent site. The 950 Pros come with a five year/400 TBs written warranty, though. The 960 EVOs will only come with three years and 200TBW on the 500GB SKU. You might also have to use those 2x16GBs in the DIMM1 and DIMM3 slots instead of DIMM 0 and 2 because of potential clearance issues with the 212, as seen here:  Large heatspreaders are kind of a buzzkill if you ever have to get at your DIMMs and one's trapped under your HSF's fan. It's why I've been recommending the Corsair LPX modules. allta posted:E2: PCPP noted a compatibility error from the ssd now <The motherboard M.2 slot #0 shares bandwidth with a SATA Express port. When the M.2 slot is populated, one SATA Express port is disabled.> So should I switch motherboards or switch drives? ASUS' own page lists the M.2 slot as being "32Gb/s M.2 x4 Support" - https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/Z170-A/ Also, another board idea for you: BIG HEADLINE posted:So since ASRock Z170s get a lot of play in here, I decided to hit up their website to find out the differences: http://www.asrock.com/mb/compare.as...odel=Z170+Pro4S The OC Formula board has *three* M.2 slots on it, as well as a *lot* of nice extras the ASUS board lacks. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Oct 29, 2016 |
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Oct 29, 2016 02:10
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Yeah after reading that I'll definitely stick the with 950's and you also made a pretty strong case for switching the board, here is everything after the updates: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($318.99 @ NCIX US) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: ASRock Z170 OC Formula ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($221.88 @ OutletPC) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($191.01 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung 950 PRO 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($314.99 @ SuperBiiz) Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 4TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($196.99 @ SuperBiiz) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card ($678.99 @ NCIX US) Case: NZXT S340 (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case ($66.99 @ SuperBiiz) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ SuperBiiz) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional Full 32/64-bit ($82.99 @ My Choice Software) Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter ($29.99 @ SuperBiiz) Keyboard: Cooler Master OCTANE Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse ($34.99 @ Newegg) Total: $2242.68 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-10-28 21:49 EDT-0400 I managed to get 2 new errors so I'm wondering if I selected the wrong new board or are they false positives? <The motherboard M.2 slot #0 shares bandwidth with a SATA Express port. When the M.2 slot is populated, one SATA Express port is disabled.> <The motherboard M.2 slot #1 shares bandwidth with a SATA Express port. When the M.2 slot is populated, one SATA Express port is disabled.> <The motherboard M.2 slot #2 shares bandwidth with a SATA Express port. When the M.2 slot is populated, one SATA Express port is disabled.>
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Oct 29, 2016 02:53
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allta posted:Yeah after reading that I'll definitely stick the with 950's and you also made a pretty strong case for switching the board, here is everything after the updates: http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z170%20OC%20Formula/ They're keyed for NVMe. The conflicts mean that when you populate an M.2 slot, it disables an SATA Express port. Seeing as the only thing people use SATA Express ports nowadays is to split into two SATA plugs, it's not a conflict, it's just telling you that the M.2 slots share PCIe bandwidth with specific SATA Express connectors. When you install it, be sure to use an M.2 slot away from your GPU so it has more airflow and area to radiate heat. Also, that's a five year system there, easily. I hope it's not breaking the bank for you. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 03:37 on Oct 29, 2016 |
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Oct 29, 2016 03:16
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I'm having a big problem with my new computer. After I get windows installed if I restart my usb ports stop working in windows. http://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/ROG-MAXIMUS-VIII-HERO-ALPHA/HelpDesk_Download/ I installed the drivers from here but it doesn't seem to help. I have to use windows repair to rollback my windows install to what it was like after first install because otherwise I can't login because neither my keyboard or mouse will work. I'm not sure what the problem is. Think I managed to fix it. Turns out 1 single USB port out of like 8 still worked and I got my mouse plugged into that one so I was able to do stuff. It turns out windows had disabled some of my usb controllers for god knows what reason. They had a tiny icon on them showing they weren't enabled that I only noticed by chance. Enabling them made it work. cheesetriangles fucked around with this message at 03:47 on Oct 29, 2016 |
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Oct 29, 2016 03:24
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BIG HEADLINE posted:They're keyed for NVMe. The conflicts mean that when you populate an M.2 slot, it disables an SATA Express port. Seeing as the only thing people use SATA Express ports nowadays is to split into two SATA plugs, it's not a conflict, it's just telling you that the M.2 slots share PCIe bandwidth with specific SATA Express connectors. When you install it, be sure to use an M.2 slot away from your GPU so it has more airflow and area to radiate heat. Noted, and thank you for all the help and explanations I'd have been so much more lost without you! And no not bank breaking, actually the 6 camera mount I'm using to make these videos as well as all the lenses and accessories come out to slightly more than this pc build. Compared to my current budget laptop I can only imagine how much of an upgrade this is going to be...Onward with the ordering process I guess!
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Oct 29, 2016 03:54
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I don't know if I'll actually buy anything, but I thought I would test the waters. I wouldn't be buying for a month or 2 either way. I've been sorta gaming on my MacBook Pro with the 650m GPU, and I'm looking to upgrade. The other option I'm considering is the brand new MacBook Pro with an eGPU. I'm not willing to give up on macOS, so one caveat is that I can't sell my laptop to cover the price if I go this route. What country are you in? Canada What are you using the system for? Web and Office? Gaming? Video or photo editing? Professional creative or scientific computing? Gaming What's your budget? We usually specify for just the computer itself (plus Windows), but if you also need monitor/mouse/whatever, just say so. If you’re doing professional work, what software do you need to use? What’s your typical project size and complexity? If you use multiple pieces of software, what’s your workflow? What's the lowest I can get everything I ask for? I'd need keyboard + mouse + monitor + headset. If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? How fancy do you want your graphics, from “it runs” to “Ultra preset as fast as possible”? I was thinking 2560x1440. Either that, or buy a 3840x2160 display, and run games at a lower resolution, but the desktop at full res with 200% scaling in Windows. I'm hoping to max out GTA 5, what frame rates could I get with a 1070? I was thinking of an mITX mobo + case with 802.11ac, and an NVMe SSD, maybe 128 GB + 1 TB SATA HD. I don't know I care that much about overclocking, so maybe a i5-6500 or i5-6600. 16 GB of DDR4 RAM should be plenty as well. I'm also hoping for something VR ready, though it might be a year or 2 before I buy a VR headset.
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Oct 29, 2016 04:04
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The Iron Rose posted:Reinstall windows just in case, or boot into linux to see if the problem persists. If it does, you know it's hardware. Thanks for the input. Since I've posted I've done fairly extensive testing. I have a collection of weird symptoms. Here are the facts: 1) Hard freezes seem to have mostly stopped when I did take out a stick of RAM. I do now believe that one of the sticks of RAM is bad. However, even when running with the one good stick, I still encounter other issues. 2) Several, repeatable video bugs. (system volume bar is supposed to be blue, but is black. Intro scene to a game has a bizarre color issue). Both of these issues have persisted through restarts and complete reinstallation of video drivers. 3) I've been able to run both SSD diagnostics including SMART testing and RAM testing, both passed. 4) I hear a high pitch chirping sound when the CPU is under load. I've physically determined it is NOT coming from the PSU or SSD. With all of this I am thinking now there is an issue with the mobo, though I am not 100% certain. I don't have a spare system to individual test random components, and given the intermittent and inconsistent nature of the issues, even if a component worked in another system I'm not sure I could give it a clean bill of health. Should I just RMA the Mobo? Thanks! app fucked around with this message at 04:25 on Oct 29, 2016 |
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Oct 29, 2016 04:14
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app posted:Thanks for the input. Since I've posted I've done fairly extensive testing. I have a collection of weird symptoms. Here are the facts: Yeah RMA the motherboard.
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Oct 29, 2016 05:24
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kripes posted:The LED version has far more stock in stores near me. I'd have to travel an hour to get the non-LED version. As far as I can tell it's identical except for the LEDs? Reviews on Amazon are excellent. There's also the Hyper 212X for $50 or the dual-fan 212X for $55, with the main difference being that the fan on those models is supposed to last longer (better bearing type, supposedly). Not sure how much that matters. some dillweed fucked around with this message at 06:36 on Oct 29, 2016 |
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Oct 29, 2016 06:10
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What are good CPU and Graphics card water cooling options? Graphics card still undecided. Dark base pro 900 is probably going to be my case. And I assume 750w should be more than enough?
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Oct 29, 2016 06:23
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The General posted:What are good CPU and Graphics card water cooling options? Graphics card still undecided. Dark base pro 900 is probably going to be my case. Go EKWB for both. E: also don't cheap out on fittings, most leaks are from fittings.
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Oct 29, 2016 06:26
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Thanks everyone for your suggestions above. I think I'm about ready to put in an order; not much is changed from the last build I described but I agree with what everyone said about getting the 6600 CPU and 1060 graphics card. I'm going to get the fan recommended so I can overclock as well leaving me with the following Case Phanteks Enthoo Pro Chassis Black - $139 Chip Intel Core i5 6600k - $325 Motherboard ASRock Z170 Extreme4 Motherboard Power Supply Corsair RM550x Modular 80 Plus Gold Power Supply Memory Corsair Vengeance LPX CMK16GX4M2A2133C13 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 Black Graphics card MSI GeForce GTX 1060 OC 6GB Hard drive Western Digital WD Blue 2TB WD20EZRZ SSD Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SSD CPU cooler Cryorig H7 CPU Cooler - $55 From what has been suggested, I'll be able to overclock the above build; I'm pretty illiterate with this stuff but the O/C thread has some pretty easy to follow directions and I'll try learning on the way. If anyone has any more feedback on the above, I'll welcome it. The build above takes into account the suggestions that followed my original post last page. Thank you all so much for your feedback; it's a big purchase and there's a lot that I could screw up!
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Oct 29, 2016 06:36
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Serrath posted:Thanks everyone for your suggestions above. I think I'm about ready to put in an order; not much is changed from the last build I described but I agree with what everyone said about getting the 6600 CPU and 1060 graphics card. I'm going to get the fan recommended so I can overclock as well leaving me with the following I think you're going to be really happy with it - glad we were able to get close-ish to your initial budget, but you won't have to worry about computer stuff for a good 3-5 years, save maybe a graphics card update 2-3 years from now, which given your desires, will likely be wholly optional. Remember to pick up a small tube of thermal compound, too: https://www.pccasegear.com/products/2173/arctic-silver-5-3-5g BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 06:56 on Oct 29, 2016 |
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Oct 29, 2016 06:48
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One more question but this may not the most appropriate place to ask. I need two monitors as well and I was thinking of picking them up from PCCase Gear as well as their prices are about what I can find on ebay for equivalent monitors. I'm specifically looking for 2 27 inch monitors. I don't need it to do anything but act as a screen to the computer; it doesn't need any other inputs, won't be used for TV, and doesn't need to have speakers included. This monitor appears to be highly reviewed on other webpages and it's on sale at the moment Viewsonic VA2759-SMH 27in IPS Full HD LED Monitor It's inexpensive; will I regret not getting a more expensive or different branded monitor? Their 25 to 30 inch offers can be found here: https://www.pccasegear.com/category/558_1213/monitors/monitors-by-size-25-30/sort/1 and prices range from $225 to over $1000; given what I want it to do, is it a mistake not aiming for somewhere in the middle of that or would I be happy with the above linked monitor? ALSO I have a case linked above because I've bought that case before and I like it the following case is on special Aerocool XPredator Cube Mini Tower Red Will everything I listed above fit into a mini tower and is there a reason not to go with this case? It knocks $100 of the overall price and the case will just sit under the desk anyway so I don't care much about looks or anything Serrath fucked around with this message at 07:08 on Oct 29, 2016 |
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Oct 29, 2016 06:58
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That monitor only has VGA and HDMI inputs - and your card only has one HDMI. Go with these: https://www.pccasegear.com/products/37082/viewsonic-vx2476-smhd-24in-ah-ips-full-hd-led-monitor/ They use Displayport connectors, which are easy to work with - they're like thicker USB cables and more reliable than HDMI cables. Sure, they're not 27", but the specs are nice. Serrath posted:I have a case linked above because I've bought that case before and I like it the following case is on special Not unless we retool everything and re-spec it for Micro-ATX. It's *doable*, but it'll complicate things. But to succinctly answer your question - no, the board is ATX - that's MATX. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 07:14 on Oct 29, 2016 |
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Oct 29, 2016 07:09
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BIG HEADLINE posted:That monitor only has VGA and HDMI inputs - and your card only has one HDMI. Thanks for the second response. The alternative screen you linked is 24 inch but I was hoping for 27. Do I lose picture quality if I link the card's HDMI port to one monitor and the normal VGA port to the other port on the card? Annoying that the card only has one HDMI, is this standard? I thought most computers used two monitors now e: glad i asked about the case, I thought I was being sneaky about saving a few bucks when I saw that case was on sale
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Oct 29, 2016 07:14
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Serrath posted:Thanks for the second response. The alternative screen you linked is 24 inch but I was hoping for 27. Do I lose picture quality if I link the card's HDMI port to one monitor and the normal VGA port to the other port on the card? You don't have a VGA port on the 1060. Just DVI-D, HDMI, and Displayport. And you can use them interchangeably. You can also get a DVI-D to HDMI adapter (one might even come with your card) that will allow you to use those twin 27". I just have a preference for using Displayport. If you want to save $30 on the case: https://www.pccasegear.com/products/19706/corsair-carbide-300r-compact-gaming-case The 200R case is cheaper, but the 300R gives you more fan mounts and - in my opinion - it's a better-looking case that *looks* like the Phanteks case you've got selected now. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 07:20 on Oct 29, 2016 |
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Oct 29, 2016 07:16
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BIG HEADLINE posted:You don't have a VGA port on the 1060. Just DVI-D, HDMI, and Displayport. And you can use them interchangeably. You can also get a DVI-D to HDMI adapter (one might even come with your card) that will allow you to use those twin 27". I just have a preference for using Displayport. Your suggestions have been amazing, thank you. For all the talk of saving money, I still have to buy a desk, wireless card, windows 10, power board, speakers, keyboard + mouse, chair etc so an extra $30 isn't going to make much of a dent. Thanks so much for taking the time to answer my questions, I don't know where I would have started with research otherwise
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Oct 29, 2016 07:20
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