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Applebees Appetizer posted:Sold my Miata this morning, no more jinba ittai for me How could you 
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Dec 8, 2016 06:09
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I think the goon shop in Sunnyvale does K-series swaps. PR Motorsports in Hayward is a good Mazda/Miata/Rotary shop in the East Bay. But yeah, don't buy cars that aren't smogged, aren't registered, etc. Sorry.
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Dec 8, 2016 08:20
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Larrymer posted:You bought a used turbo car that wasn't running well...in Cali, where it needs smogged and you can't work on it? Eek. What was your thought process? The car was running OK when I bought it. I didn't know the seller hadn't smogged it until I tried to transfer the title. There is no check engine light, unfortunately it is somewhat far away so I can't work on it every moment. AF posted:FYI: CA DMV states that the seller must smog the vehicle prior to selling. A lot of people on CL don't know/don't care about this, as you found out, but really, if they're not willing to smog the car, that should be a clear sign something's not right. I knew that the car needed to be smogged before a sale, and the seller had told me that he had smogged it. The carfax on the car came back clean. I bought the MSM for $5200 with 70k miles, and as far as I knew it needed some interior/cosmetic work. The seller is unreachable and was dishonest. All of this happened after I handed over the money, and the engine problems started days later. Anyone in the area that has experience with Miatas, please let me know any information about what to do or where to take it.
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Dec 8, 2016 08:38
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:I think the goon shop in Sunnyvale does K-series swaps. PR Motorsports in Hayward is a good Mazda/Miata/Rotary shop in the East Bay. He does everything regarding NA/NB Miatas.
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Dec 8, 2016 15:30
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Nodoze posted:How could you I'm tired of working on cars, don't have the energy or time anymore and the Miata was just sitting and rotting because I didn't want to gently caress with it. I also have a 96 Camry that is going to be sold as soon as I find a low mileage Mazda2. I just want a car i don't have to gently caress with for a awhile so I can do other things with my free time, spending weekends getting filthy underneath cars is not enjoyable for me anymore.
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Dec 8, 2016 18:58
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PROLE ART THREAT posted:The car was running OK when I bought it. I didn't know the seller hadn't smogged it until I tried to transfer the title. There is no check engine light, unfortunately it is somewhat far away so I can't work on it every moment. Are there any aftermarket things on it? Like an o2 signal modifier clamp or aftermarket stereo or anything like that that might be hacked into the harness weird?
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Dec 8, 2016 20:07
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PROLE ART THREAT posted:The car was running OK when I bought it. I didn't know the seller hadn't smogged it until I tried to transfer the title. There is no check engine light, unfortunately it is somewhat far away so I can't work on it every moment. Here, I googled SF Miata Specialists and found this one in SSF: https://www.yelp.com/biz/sbgarage-south-san-francisco-2 edit: oh, taqueria san bruno is on the same street, get yourself one of the best fuckin' burritos in the bay to drown your sorrows AF fucked around with this message at 22:44 on Dec 8, 2016 |
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Dec 8, 2016 22:27
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powderific posted:Are there any aftermarket things on it? Like an o2 signal modifier clamp or aftermarket stereo or anything like that that might be hacked into the harness weird? No, car is all stock. AF posted:Here, I googled SF Miata Specialists and found this one in SSF: https://www.yelp.com/biz/sbgarage-south-san-francisco-2 Thanks that was where I was going to take it if I can't fix it myself. I appreciate the help everyone, I am happy to have a miata I just didn't get the deal I was expecting. Hopefully this is an easy fix as it ran ok a few days ago. hartylfc fucked around with this message at 04:38 on Dec 9, 2016 |
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Dec 9, 2016 04:22
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hartylfc posted:No, car is all stock. Like... Everything? How sure are you? Engine wiring especially. Small poo poo. Not super up to snuff on MSM wiring, but doesn't pulling the ECU break a few circuits to sensors? The problem might not be ECU, but a gremlin further down the harness. This could also be responsible for your poo poo performance. If the ECU is getting or giving whacked data because of a short, it will drive like rear end. And even without a lit CEL there might be codes stored. Who knows they might have removed the bulb and its actually freaking out on you. Grab an obd2 reader, which might help troubleshooting any other dicked readings. Laranzu fucked around with this message at 07:45 on Dec 9, 2016 |
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Dec 9, 2016 07:40
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There's a fuse called "Room" that maintains power to the ECU when the car is off and it can cause the car to run strangely because it'll constantly be re-learning, and it'll reset any CEL's to boot. I ended up shorting mine replacing my antenna and it did a bunch of weird stuff. Make sure stuff like the dome light works when the car's off.
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Dec 9, 2016 08:09
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I worked on the car for about 5 hours tonight, checked the wiring and the intake for leaks. The car now starts but only if I put jumpers on the main relay. It still bogs down at about 4K rpm but I hear that's kinda typical. The relay tests ok but doesn't work when plugged in. A friend thinks the immobilizer may have something to do with it. I am going to drive it this weekend to build up the data to get its smogged next week. I will probably take it to SB garage at some point to get it looked over. The engine is very clean but there is some suspicion that the engine may have been power washed or something and messed up something electrical. I need to pick up the b5b4 relay from o'reilly and replace the jumpers. I tested with an obd ii sensor and there are no codes, so it seems like a weird problem that I hope doesn't keep occurring but seems like it might.
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Dec 9, 2016 11:16
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So I'm thinking of selling my E46 M3 and putting some money in the miata (95M). I like autocross and i'd probably track the car every now and then. I don't really want turbo, because I loving hate turbo lag. So its either a super or an NA build. I have a buddy that has a VVT head he's looking to sell, so I figure i'd pick that up regardless. But would I really be able to do much on my low compression motor with a VVT head? Anyway, what's the consensus out there? 1. NA, probably VVT head, full exhaust, flat top intake. 2. Super, probably MP63, maybe MP42. Eventual plan is probably DIY revalved billsteins, 15x10s, race seats, harness, sway bars. Im not looking to go full race car, its going to keep the speakers and AC. Basically I made the mistake of driving a friends CSP car and it was a loving bucket of fun. Sadi fucked around with this message at 19:36 on Dec 9, 2016 |
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Dec 9, 2016 19:29
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A VVT longblock (domestic or JDM) should run you about $1k if it comes with everything (manifolds, engine harness, body harness). If you have an RB header, you're good to go. Sell the 2001+ header for at least $150 and grab a VICS manifold (net $0). With a MS3 and some dyno time, you're looking at 145whp/120ft-lbs easy. If you're looking at just doing the head ($350ish?) and adding a supercharger, I would think that you'd be butting up against K24 money. I'd rather have the longblock if you're doing a VVT swap.
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Dec 9, 2016 19:38
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Does it make any sense to put a VICS manifold on an otherwise stock 2001?
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Dec 11, 2016 04:29
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No because you don't have a standalone to control the solenoid. VTCS is only for emissions purposes.
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Dec 11, 2016 18:40
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Sadi posted:So I'm thinking of selling my E46 M3 and putting some money in the miata (95M). I like autocross and i'd probably track the car every now and then. I don't really want turbo, because I loving hate turbo lag. So its either a super or an NA build. I have a buddy that has a VVT head he's looking to sell, so I figure i'd pick that up regardless. But would I really be able to do much on my low compression motor with a VVT head? What is this super that you speak of? I've never heard of it.
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Dec 12, 2016 02:59
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Hey everyone, got my Miata running but I had to bypass the main relay with cables to close the circuit. When the key is in the ignition, the relay does get 12v and is grounded, but won't start. The battery light and check engine light also don't appear unless I bridge that circuit. I don't understand it, but it seems like the ECU stops sending the signal as soon as I try to start the engine. Otherwise driving the Miata is fun, the MSM issues are weird though and I want to address them as soon as I figure out this strange issue with starting.
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Dec 12, 2016 08:04
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The main relay is closed by the ignition switch. Check your 'Engine' fuse.
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Dec 13, 2016 01:10
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I've been batting around the idea of getting a NC PRHT the past few months and selling/storing my NA because:
I'm weighing that against the fact that the NC is probably 25% less fun than the NA in my limited experience with them. I've been talking to this guy: https://wenatchee.craigslist.org/cto/5860289121.html and it's been fairly straight forward. He's been forward with the cars cosmetic flaws (bad mismatched touch up paint on rock chips, minor wheel rash, PDR opportunities) so I'm hoping I could talk him down a grand. I just got off the phone with Mazda and the car doesn't have Bilsteins or the LSD, which is kind of a bummer. I could always throw a FM kit on the car - is the LSD really essential to street enjoyment? I know I'd be missing out on the higher redline and improved shifter of the NC2, but a PRHT at this price point seems a fairly good value - especially within driving distance of me. What do you think? PS: He mentions a minor rattle from the engine bay that he hasn't figured out. He thought it might be a pulley but they were all fine. He had the dealership look at it, but they said it was normal to NCs and that he found other people with the issue online. Any info there?
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Dec 15, 2016 00:45
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Parents have had an NC1 and NB which I've put quite a few miles on, though the NC got converted to a race car. The normal NC shock valving lets it down a little - too soft and takes too long to take a set. I haven't tried the off the shelf Bilsteins, but the race kit Bilsteins we put on was a night and day transformation. From what I'm reading the OEM Bilstein valving wasn't great on the NC1 anyway. The LSD is not essential unless you drive like an rear end in a top hat - poo poo, we didn't put one in until the second season as a race car. I personally like the trans better than the Mazda 5 speed in the Miata and RX-7s. And speaking as a big guy (6'3 and around 260 lbs) the NC somehow has more room than the NB. It doesn't seem like it should but it just does. The seat bolsters are kind of narrow if you're as wide as I am though. I'd look at the Progress springs for the NC, and Bilstein Sports or HDs or Koni Sports - mild drop, mild rate increase, and Mazda specced it for a pretty limited run option package so it's pretty mild. That should fix most of the compromises. I'd definitely do an NC again for a street car.
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Dec 15, 2016 15:42
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Thanks for the help guys. Car got smogged and registered and its all good. The car runs better buts it tough to sort out the MSM hesitation from an actual issue, but it runs well enough to rule out a problem with the ecu. But it is interesting that I still have to jump the egi relay power because it opens the relay as soon as I try to start the car. It cranks but does not start, and no battery or CEL appear when trying to start without the cables jumping the terminals. I am taking it to the mazda dealership this week to get the immobilizer checked out, but definitely no codes from an obd reader or check engine light.
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Dec 16, 2016 18:22
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Not 100% sure why you would ever want this Edit: Found an article on it
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Dec 17, 2016 22:02
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poxin posted:http://thegarage.jalopnik.com/genius-invents-app-to-remotely-open-his-miata-headlight-1789684881 "Genius" 
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Dec 18, 2016 08:11
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mekilljoydammit posted:Parents have had an NC1 and NB which I've put quite a few miles on, though the NC got converted to a race car. Thanks - I'm going to see if I can get him down further on the price. Car buying is a slippery slope, it's not much distance from his asking price to something really nice like this: http://amarillo.craigslist.org/cto/5896048705.html ...but then I'm way over budget blk fucked around with this message at 05:20 on Dec 19, 2016 |
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Dec 19, 2016 02:57
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Offered this guy: https://wenatchee.craigslist.org/cto/5860289121.html 11k and he accepted without complaint. Car doesn't have suspension package or LSD. Did I offer too high? It does have some touch up paint fuckups, wheel rash and a PDR opportunity from a previous owner:       
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Dec 21, 2016 07:20
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My NA passed its second inspection today. 2 years of tinkering, swearing and hitting stuff with hammers has paid off because the only things I got marked down for were a blown license plate bulb and a misaligned headlight, which was totally me fiddling with the wrong screw when trying to change my bulbs last year. 
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Dec 21, 2016 16:48
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Nice!
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Dec 21, 2016 17:03
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RillAkBea posted:My NA passed its second inspection today. 2 years of tinkering, swearing and hitting stuff with hammers has paid off because the only things I got marked down for were a blown license plate bulb and a misaligned headlight, which was totally me fiddling with the wrong screw when trying to change my bulbs last year. Sounds like a real accomplishment. I live in FL so no inspections here at all, I remember how much of a pain they were when I lived in NJ. I got a 2004 NB a couple weeks ago and I love it, unfortunately it smells pretty bad - no doubt do to too much moisture inside. The floor mats were by far the worst - they reeked and had enough dust in them that I don't think they'd been vacuumed since the Bush administration. I had to beat on the driver's side mat with a tennis racket for ten solid minutes before the dust stopped flying. I used Turtle Wax carpet shampoo on the mats and it helped but even after using that, letting them dry, vacuuming them again and then letting them bake in direct sunlight for a couple hours they still smell pretty bad, although they don't reek as much as they did. I'm going to do the same thing to the carpet lining for the rest of the car but I'm worried the smell won't be eradicated. Is there anything else I can do?
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Dec 24, 2016 06:26
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Filthy Hans posted:Is there anything else I can do? Throw them away, replace with rubber floormats.
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Dec 24, 2016 08:11
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Geoj posted:Throw them away, replace with rubber floormats. Good idea, except that leaves me with the problem of the smell in the rest of the car's carpeting.
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Dec 24, 2016 08:13
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You could try similar treatment to what you did with the mats. Pull it out and clean it multiple times, although that's going to be difficult since it's molded to the contour of the floor pan. Maybe after cleaning try closing the car up with an ozone generator running inside for the better part of a week...?
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Dec 24, 2016 08:19
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Geoj posted:You could try similar treatment to what you did with the mats. Pull it out and clean it multiple times, although that's going to be difficult since it's molded to the contour of the floor pan. I've never heard of using an ozone generator to deodorize, I'll check it out, thanks
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Dec 24, 2016 17:00
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Ozone generators are great for removing odors, yeah. I might have to do that with mine as well... Ugh, found a silver hard top for sale and it's really tempting to buy it and grab my miata out of winter storage early. But it isn't oil treated and I would have to buy winter tires/wheels. Someone talk me out of it? 
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Dec 24, 2016 17:12
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You can buy replacement carpets from some shop in the U.K..
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Dec 24, 2016 18:39
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:Does it make any sense to put a VICS manifold on an otherwise stock 2001? Phone posted:No because you don't have a standalone to control the solenoid. VTCS is only for emissions purposes. destructo fucked around with this message at 03:22 on Dec 25, 2016 |
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Dec 25, 2016 03:19
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The VTCS manifold makes more mid-range torque. Unless you're tracking your car the VTCS is likely the better manifold. Pull out the butterflies and JBweld up the holes though.
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Dec 25, 2016 03:55
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oh man let's all go out for a christmas drive!!
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Dec 25, 2016 23:37
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(LOOKS AT FORECAST.) gently caress. (GOES BACK TO GOBBLING MINCE PIES.)
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Dec 25, 2016 23:37
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Any real reason to spend an extra few $$ to get an NC over a 1.8 NA or NB? I miss the total beater POS rusted out salvage title 97 I had so drat much , but I want something slightly nice this time. My Main goal is to turbo it, and I know it's fairly straightforward on the NA/NB, but I can't find much on the NC.
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Dec 26, 2016 01:51
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Voltage posted:Any real reason to spend an extra few $$ to get an NC over a 1.8 NA or NB? I miss the total beater POS rusted out salvage title 97 I had so drat much , but I want something slightly nice this time. My Main goal is to turbo it, and I know it's fairly straightforward on the NA/NB, but I can't find much on the NC. After much research I found it was a kick in the dick to TC the NC so I decided to enjoy it for what it was.
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Dec 26, 2016 05:17
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