|
Any of you guys had chafing/irritation from your helmet strap? I ended up with a red mark just above my Adam's apple that lasted a day after riding. I recently washed my helmet, so I don't think it's dirty.
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2017 00:23
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 10:05 |
|
|
If anything it might be whatever you washed it with. A bit of detergent residue can be quite irritating.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2017 00:30
|
|
|
I used my regular shampoo, so I don't think it's that. My best guess is I went too close with my razor in the morning, and the strap was just in the right place at the wrong time.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2017 03:26
|
|
|
I've had it a couple of times. Related: why do all MX helmets have the strap laughably far back? Are all dirt riders lightbulb heads or what? Medium shoei that fits me perfectly: strap millimetrically centered under my jaw. Half a dozen different MX helmets that fit me perfectly/reasonably well: strap feels like a hangman's noose. In the end I just gave up and bought one that had all the other stuff I wanted.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2017 03:36
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:
It chokes off blood supply to the brain which tends to cause bad life decisions which tend to be good MX decisions.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2017 11:49
|
|
|
carcinofuck posted:Guys, I have vague questions. AFAIK the crf has a different cam which shifts the power band lower so the peak HP on the CBR is higher.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2017 20:00
|
|
|
My DL650's rear tire was penetrated by a long screw that also managed to have the tip of the screw poke a SECOND little hole exiting through the area of the tire that seats directly onto the bead of my rim. Is it worth trying to patch this from the inside or should I just ditch the tire? It has about 3500 highway miles on it, so it isn't in the best or worst shape.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2017 21:04
|
|
|
Can I use 4t engine oil in the final drive of a lovely chinese 2t scooter or does it absolutely have to be some sort of gear oil?Man_of_Teflon posted:My DL650's rear tire was penetrated by a long screw that also managed to have the tip of the screw poke a SECOND little hole exiting through the area of the tire that seats directly onto the bead of my rim. Pull that thing out of your pocket and post a pic.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2017 23:57
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Can I use 4t engine oil in the final drive of a lovely chinese 2t scooter or does it absolutely have to be some sort of gear oil? It might be fine or it might not. That small risk seems not worth it given the likely minuscule effort to check the right spec. 10w40 or gear oil, it'll be something cheap.
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2017 10:12
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Can I use 4t engine oil in the final drive of a lovely chinese 2t scooter or does it absolutely have to be some sort of gear oil? I would think so yes. My RD called for 30wt oil in the transmission. ATF type F is what I've used in all my 2t stuff.
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2017 16:03
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Can I use 4t engine oil in the final drive of a lovely chinese 2t scooter or does it absolutely have to be some sort of gear oil? Probably. My Zuma 125 calls for 10w30 in the final. If you can't find a manual for your specific lovely Chinese scooter you can probably find out what generic engine it has and are what's recommended.
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2017 17:50
|
|
|
Thanks chaps 
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2017 19:54
|
|
|
Scooter FDs are often supposed to have very heavy oil, like 85w140, so no, ATF and engine oil are totally different. But it won't matter in a Chinese scooter because the entire electrical system will melt in 5 miles.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2017 03:30
|
|
|
I'm trying to diagnose a howling coming from the front of my F4i that increases in volume with road speed, but doesn't increase in pitch. The bike also feels just a a little rough-rolling while coasting very slowly with the clutch in, almost like very faint gravel or something. Very faint and doesn't happen all the time. Wheel bearing? If so, how much should I expect to pay a shop to fix that on the East Coast?
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2017 14:37
|
|
|
Fifty Three posted:I'm trying to diagnose a howling coming from the front of my F4i that increases in volume with road speed, but doesn't increase in pitch. The bike also feels just a a little rough-rolling while coasting very slowly with the clutch in, almost like very faint gravel or something. Very faint and doesn't happen all the time. Wheel bearing? If so, how much should I expect to pay a shop to fix that on the East Coast? Wheel bearing should increase in pitch, you'll feel it easily if you can get the front wheel off the ground and spin it by hand. Are you sure the howl is not emanating from your mouth?
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2017 14:45
|
|
|
Ola posted:Wheel bearing should increase in pitch, you'll feel it easily if you can get the front wheel off the ground and spin it by hand. Are you sure the howl is not emanating from your mouth?  Getting used to a new bike is as bad as trying to sleep in a new house.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2017 15:02
|
|
|
Yeah, turbulent wind blast can sometimes feel like a mechanical vibration. And it's wrong of me to insist that the wheel bearing should increase in pitch, vibrations are complicated and it could well be a worn bearing. Before you get a paddock stand, you can just try rolling the bike with the engine off across a smooth surface.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2017 15:42
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Pull that thing out of your pocket and post a pic. Best I can get:  You can't see the hole itself but you can see where the tip of the screw dug in a bit to the rim itself, to get an idea of where it exited the tire.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2017 17:23
|
|
|
Fifty Three posted:Hah, most of the time. Getting the front wheel off the ground might be tricky, I don't yet have paddock stands. I'll see if I can figure something out. I wasn't aware a wheel bearing would increase in pitch, thanks for the info. I guess it could be the... wind... ? Get a friend who isn't a sissy to put their foot on the side stand and heave up and back to get the front wheel off ground. Sounds difficult but is in fact very easy with all but the heaviest bikes, that'll let you spin the wheel and see if it's a bearing. Try pulling the clutch in and hitting the kill switch at speed for a better listen. Man_of_Teflon posted:Best I can get: If I'm understanding that correctly there's no way you'll get the tyre to hold air again without a poo poo ton of tyre goo (don't do this).
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2017 19:58
|
|
|
Man_of_Teflon posted:Best I can get: That looks ok - I've put worse dings in tires being an ape with tire irons. Hard to tell from the perspective but it looks like a very narrow gouge. If it has a sharp edge I'd knock it down a bit and then seat the tire and test with soapy water.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2017 20:19
|
|
|
EX250 Type R posted:AFAIK the crf has a different cam which shifts the power band lower so the peak HP on the CBR is higher.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2017 23:03
|
|
|
carcinofuck posted:And yet if I use a CBR ECU, it will allow it to use higher amounts of fuel/air to push up the HP? The ecu will be expecting the motor to behave like a cbr250 and will fuel it as such. The crf cam will be expecting to be fed fuel differently and IMO it would not be a step up. The motors are very similar but designed for different uses. They make about the same power, just at different rpms. Don't get caught up in chasing a peak hp number from something tuned to peak at high rpms on a bike that's designed around lower rpm usage. Start with the airbox, ejk, and exhaust and realize you aren't gonna get much power out of it and appreciate it for what it is or get a bigger bike.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2017 23:51
|
|
|
Z3n posted:That looks ok - I've put worse dings in tires being an ape with tire irons. Hard to tell from the perspective but it looks like a very narrow gouge. If it has a sharp edge I'd knock it down a bit and then seat the tire and test with soapy water. I think he's worried about the puncture hole in the tyre bead, not the rim. EX250 Type R posted:The ecu will be expecting the motor to behave like a cbr250 and will fuel it as such. The crf cam will be expecting to be fed fuel differently and IMO it would not be a step up. Modding a small bike for more power is like putting a turbo on the non-turbo version of a turbo car. It's always cheaper and better to just buy the more powerful one instead.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2017 00:43
|
|
|
Z3n posted:That looks ok - I've put worse dings in tires being an ape with tire irons. Hard to tell from the perspective but it looks like a very narrow gouge. If it has a sharp edge I'd knock it down a bit and then seat the tire and test with soapy water. The problem is that there is a hole in the bead of the tire too where the tip of the screw exited that leaks juuuust a little bit even after smoothing the rim 
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2017 00:44
|
|
|
Man_of_Teflon posted:The problem is that there is a hole in the bead of the tire too where the tip of the screw exited that leaks juuuust a little bit even after smoothing the rim Oh, lol, gently caress me, no, that tire is toast as gently caress, buddy. Didn't even consider that was in the realm of possibility that that is what you were talking about!
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2017 08:55
|
|
|
So Im checking my valves on my sv (20k miles). Im not quite sure if Im doing it right. It looks like all my intake valves are good. Spec is .1-.2 Front r: .1 Front l: .12 Rear r: .1 Rear l: .12 Weird part is it seems like every exhaust valve is .15. Spec is .2-.3 so it seems odd that they'd all be off that much. Any chance I'm measuring wrong or something? Seems hard to mess up but I've e never done engine stuff before.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2017 19:46
|
|
|
If they're currently at the tight end of the spec, that means that they're going to become too tight in short order. I'd loosen them up to the wide end, personally. Both intake and exhaust. There's a chance you're measuring wrong, sure, but it's not that complex. Make sure the engine is set to the correct crank angle, slide in the feeler gauges until you get the last one that goes in without jamming.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2017 19:52
|
|
|
hit the bricks pal! posted:So Im checking my valves on my sv (20k miles). Im not quite sure if Im doing it right. It looks like all my intake valves are good. Spec is .1-.2 You're going to want to adjust all of them because you're going to have to pull the cams regardless. You're probably not measuring wrong, they tighten up over time, and exhausts tend to tighten up more than intakes due to not being cooled by the fuel charge / proximity to the exhaust pipe. Move all the intakes to .2, all the exhausts to .3. It's ok to go a little off the loose end of the spec if needed, won't hurt anything and taking them all to the very lose end will mean you'll probably go 60k miles before needing adjustment again. You won't have done any damage having them at .15 (indeed, it'd probably be completely unnoticeable - Zoran runs all his SV racebikes at .15 clearances all the time for some secret reason). Do one cylinder at a time, and tag the cam chain to the cams with a grease or paint pen so that you can make sure you've reinstalled them at the same location, or risk having to reinstall them a few times to get it right. Don't turn the engine over with the cams removed. Also, re-installing the cam chain tensioners is a bit of a pain in the rear end - it's worth it to make the little key they recommend.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2017 19:57
|
|
|
Fair enough. I think I've seen so many examples of sv's making it to like 50k without adjusting i wasn't expecting mine to really need it. Ill have to look into the process a little more, getting all the way in there might be outside of my comfort zone.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2017 20:05
|
|
|
So what the hell do people actually do for breaking in new engines? Follow the manufacturer spec?
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2017 20:12
|
|
|
A boring question for Americans: I bought a bike (2015 Duke 690) last year, second hand from a dealership in California, end of May. I had to leave the US for a few months and left it in a garage, where it awaits my return. I cancelled my insurance while I'm away. I'll probably be back around May again. Is there anything else I have to do in terms or registration and such to get it legal, before or after the 1-year mark from purchasing it?
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2017 20:24
|
|
|
If it's in California, and the registration lapsed while you were away, you will have to pay the back registration fees plus a penalty plus the registration fees for this year. Out of the country and literally impossible for you to ride the bike? Too bad, you still have to keep it registered. If you don't plan to operate the vehicle you can put it on PNO (planned non-operating) status for only like $20 a year. Still has to be registered with the DMV. No, you cannot do this retroactively. This is why barn finds in California often suck balls. The back-fees are owed by whoever wants to register the bike, doesn't matter who owned it while the fees were delinquent, so you can buy something that's been sitting in a garage for ten years and go to the DMV and whoops you owe a thousand dollars.  On the other hand, the insurance should be easy. You'll lose the continuous-insurance discount or whatever but otherwise they won't have any issue reinstating it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2017 20:59
|
|
|
that is loving ridiculous - it's probably cheaper/easier to go register it out of state or use that South Dakota loophole than deal with that mess.
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2017 22:19
|
|
|
Odette posted:So what the hell do people actually do for breaking in new engines? Follow the manufacturer spec? If you have a new bike yeah. If you've rebuilt an engine and don't have any info one way or another, avoid long idling, extended periods at the same RPM/gear, and going over 2/3rd's throttle or RPM. Then change the oil after a thousand k's.
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2017 23:43
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:
Yeup. PNO it, do it every year. If you drop insurance and leave it registered, they'll cancel your rego, and that makes it another pain in the dick. The PO of my truck paid 3 thousand in backfees for ~10 years of not registered on road.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2017 01:55
|
|
|
I lost the keys to my top case. Yes, both of them. I've got an order into Shad for a replacement cylinder and keys, but also need to force the old lock open. Any suggestions? Should I bash a flat head or chisel in there until it breaks? Take a drill to it?
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2017 06:35
|
|
|
its all nice on rice posted:I lost the keys to my top case. Yes, both of them. I've got an order into Shad for a replacement cylinder and keys, but also need to force the old lock open. Doing this will probably end up breaking parts of the box you don't want to break. Luckily top boxes and such have laughably simple locks and you could probably pick it with a paperclip and some persistence; I've done it several times.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2017 08:13
|
|
|
its all nice on rice posted:I lost the keys to my top case. Yes, both of them. I've got an order into Shad for a replacement cylinder and keys, but also need to force the old lock open. As Slavvy said, they're simple locks. Wafer tumbler to be precise, usually 4-5 spaces with 3-5 depths. Look up some lock picking videos on youtube, make yourself some tools out of spring steel(ladies hair pins, street sweeper bristle, flat springs) tension the barrel with one tool, rake the wafers with the other. When dealing with wafer locks like that tension is key, not too hard or the wafers bind too much or too soft and they won't pick. I'm a locksmith, I see these a lot and basically I just wiggle the pick around a bit and they open. Edit: just looked into the shad lock cylinders, it's a larger version of the LS13 chinese cam lock profile 4 spaces 3 depths, key is double sided, lock is single sided(all wafers on one side) trivial to rake open. Fanelien fucked around with this message at 09:30 on Feb 27, 2017 |
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2017 09:24
|
|
|
I broke a key off in my Kappa case (same cylinders as Givi), and the fragment left prevented me putting another key in. Screwdriver in the lock and another screwdriver through the handle hole for leverage, opened without causing damage to anything that wasn't being replaced anyway.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2017 10:04
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 10:05 |
|
|
PNO in CA is $20 forever, they just send the renewal annually and you ignore it if you want to stay PNO or pay whatever it says if you want to reinstate active registration.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2017 17:04
|
|
