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mekilljoydammit posted:So, just don't let it go below 4500rpm, check. Coworker got a red rf two weeks ago and it looks really good in person. From the pictures I always thought the 3/4 perspective from the rear panel looked a little goofy but in person the lines look great. If someone buys a vanilla ND at work then our parking garage will have every Miata type in it.
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Mar 30, 2017 16:01
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mekilljoydammit posted:I'm kinda joking, but in all seriousness, I would make the argument that for pure track use variable valve timing of any sort is wasted effort. Spending 5 minutes looking at Miata VVT tables, I'm seeing most going to a fixed value over about 4500-5k RPM at WOT - there's nothing that telling VVT to go to a given advance will do compared to having the cam just degreed there.
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Mar 30, 2017 21:35
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destructo posted:The other half of Phone's post, not explicitly stated, but alluded to in the linked post, is that the BP05 is trash and even if you skip VVT, you're still much better off with a BP4W head at the very least. That's where the 10-12 ftlbs will come from over the whole range. They're all kinda trash though...
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Mar 30, 2017 21:45
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E: nm I can't read Torque is both cool and good. The only redeeming thing about the BP05 is that it has 8.8 or 9.0 pistons... but that's about it. The 4W and 6D heads just straight up flow better. An 8% increase in torque across the entire range (including moving peak into 120+ territory) seems like a reasonable gain for messing with some wires and playing Excel with your car for a few hours. Using the trite adage of buying horsepower and driving torque, HP only really matters when it comes to overcoming aero drag, it's the digging out of the corner that really matters. Phone fucked around with this message at 05:45 on Mar 31, 2017 |
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Mar 31, 2017 05:28
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There is no value in low comp OEM pistons. Both the BP4W and BP6D (9.5, 10:1 respectively) will easily hit the stock block torque limit under boost, while spooling significantly quicker/making more power with less restriction. The only good thing I can think of that a BP05 has is a predrilled oil port on the driver's side.
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Mar 31, 2017 14:17
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Phone posted:E: nm I can't read OK, what started as a couple relatively throwaway jokes turned into a discussion. NBD.  My point is that for otherwise equal setups (not BP05 vs 4W/6D, obviously a better flowing head works better) if you have cam timing dialed to one (correct) angle, peak torque and torque above a given RPM will be pretty much identical. Torque at the wheels is what matters, and I'm having trouble thinking of an argument *ON TRACK* for leaving things in gear and running at 3000rpm (even if it's 10ft/lbs higher or whatever) vs downshifting during the braking zone. I'd further argue that just about all racing gearboxes are attempts to cut away more and more of the need for low-end away by having a tighter ratio spread. Albeit turbos can make that more unecessary by simple dint of having too much torque anyway, thus everyone on Miataturbo and the rest going after T5s instead of things with better ratios. You know what? This whole thing hit a nerve is all because I'm tired of people gushing over the necessity for all the various types of variable valve timing for track use when they're all basically just street car poo poo, especially including VTEC (yo).
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Mar 31, 2017 14:41
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The soft top on my 10AE is ... not especially waterproof. I kinda suspected as much, but forgot to cover the car with a tarp before leaving for a few days. Yay for wet seats  Time for some waterproofing!   How the edges look over the windows... not exactly pretty   Did someone say faded? E: Imgur works better
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Mar 31, 2017 22:30
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Rhyno posted:So I had to get a new battery for the Miata this year, old one was only two years old. Tested bad at Autozone but the guy said to look for a drain somewhere. Alternator tested good. Then I remembered something that stuck in my head when I was in the garage one day. This loving thing is on all the goddamned time. Quoting myself because I didn't see any feedback. NC owners can you confirm your ignition lights remain off until you open the door?
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Apr 3, 2017 16:52
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E: missed a page
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Apr 4, 2017 17:16
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Ok so let's say someone was changing the CAS o-ring, and after taking out the CAS, accidentally rotated the thing inside the CAS they say you shouldn't rotate before marking its position. How the gently caress would this person get the CAS back on?
Elysium fucked around with this message at 01:08 on Apr 5, 2017 |
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Apr 5, 2017 00:18
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Pull the valve cover to get the CAS back on. Then you'll probably have to fix your timing with a timing light.
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Apr 5, 2017 00:32
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Just picked up this beautiful '95 from TheNothingNew (thanks again for the smooth transaction) over the weekend. Drove it back ~800 miles to my new garage in the PA Poconos from Milwaukee. I plan to do a full refresh of the suspension bits/brakes right off the bat since the thing is in pretty perfect condition otherwise - can anyone chime in if I'm missing anything vital? So far parts list is: Bilstein shocks+struts 4X shock mounts (I already have a set of shock bellows/bump stops) full set of Energy bushings (if someone knows where to get the new rubber bushings instead, that would be cool) http://949racing.com/energy-suspension-bushings-miata.aspx brake prop valve - http://949racing.com/wilwood-brake-prop-valve.aspx wilwood front brake kit - http://949racing.com/Supermiata-big-brake-kit.aspx competition motor mounts - http://949racing.com/mazda-motor-mount.aspx delrin door bushings Also, what is generally the accepted roll bar for doing a basic HPDE/track day - the hard dog M2? I have a glass rear window. Once I'm satisfied with the setup, it's turbo time 
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Apr 6, 2017 16:06
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Elysium posted:Ok so let's say someone was changing the CAS o-ring, and after taking out the CAS, accidentally rotated the thing inside the CAS they say you shouldn't rotate before marking its position. How the gently caress would this person get the CAS back on? Just put it back in and reset the timing once you get it started again. If it won't start, rotate it one way or the other until it does.
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Apr 6, 2017 16:25
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destructo posted:Just put it back in and reset the timing once you get it started again. If it won't start, rotate it one way or the other until it does. I meant like literally, physically, how the gently caress do I get it back in, blind? Just keep rotating the bar like 1 degree at a time and hope it slides into the tiny rear end slots that aren't beveled?
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Apr 6, 2017 16:31
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Yes? Or remove the valve cover?
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Apr 6, 2017 16:41
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Rhyno posted:Quoting myself because I didn't see any feedback. NC owners can you confirm your ignition lights remain off until you open the door? Mine is off until the driver's door opens. It does stay on for a while after closing and locking the doors though.
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Apr 6, 2017 19:10
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The Spyder told me once that there's a JDM R package suspension for NAs that (if I remember correctly) is more comfortable for street than the US package (and possibly better than the FM packages as well). Can anyone confirm/deny? I know it doesn't necessarily mean they're uncomfortable, but the FM spring rates look a little high to me.
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Apr 6, 2017 19:14
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Elysium posted:I meant like literally, physically, how the gently caress do I get it back in, blind? Just keep rotating the bar like 1 degree at a time and hope it slides into the tiny rear end slots that aren't beveled?
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Apr 8, 2017 06:54
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Elysium posted:I meant like literally, physically, how the gently caress do I get it back in, blind? Just keep rotating the bar like 1 degree at a time and hope it slides into the tiny rear end slots that aren't beveled? Yeah, it's a pain in the rear end. Get a little dental mirror or take off the valve cover.
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Apr 8, 2017 14:39
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I stuck my phone back there and took a picture of the position, then lined it up roughly and prayed.
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Apr 8, 2017 16:08
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CAS roulette is more fun then pulling the cover.
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Apr 8, 2017 16:59
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Had the top down this morning, officially marking the survival of the first New England winter in my '06 NC. If anyone is on the fence about year-round daily driving in the north, it's not really a barrier to ownership. Didn't even put a single bag of sand in the back or buy snow tires - just a very good set of all-seasons. I drove this thing during every major snowstorm we had (the curse of working in operations and not being able to skip out due to weather). I drove it on ice, through 6 inches of snow on totally un-plowed state roads at 2AM, through wintry mixes and slush - you name it. No incidents, no tow trucks. There were two storms this year when I was out on the road in conditions that were putting 4WD SUVs on their roofs and Subarus into ditches. Sure, it slides around and can get away from you, but it never bites you. Regaining control is always this calm, smooth affair. It's been the most predictable, well-behaved vehicle I've owned. The only thing I regret (and only slightly) is not holding out for a model with an LSD - but it took me so long to find a low-mileage PRHT that I decided I could live without it. I'm looking to do a few things in the coming weeks - anyone have any experience installing an OEM auto-dimming rear-view mirror or retrofitting a proper HID projector setup into an NC? Any recommendations on that front? Also looking for a drivers-side OEM carpet floormat for the car and a SmartTop module. edit: And if the HID setup isn't worth it, any recommendations for H7 replacement bulbs? Stock ones blow. FreelanceSocialist fucked around with this message at 14:21 on Apr 11, 2017 |
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Apr 11, 2017 14:11
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I'm about to sell my 2002 1.8 Miata. 106k miles. Engine is in good condition. AC doesn't work. Some scratches and dents, large dent on the rear quarter panel on the passenger side. Roll bar. It also has a 2 small holes in the top. Drivers seat has leather that is starting to rip. Any advice on what a good asking price is? Also I'm selling it in Philly so if any of you guys are interested let me know.
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Apr 11, 2017 15:42
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Probably like $1000. If you want to bring it to North Carolina, I'll buy it from you so you don't have to worry about dealing with Craigslist people. But for real, that sounds like a good $3500-$4500 depending on your local market.
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Apr 11, 2017 16:06
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Due to some bullshit I haven't been able to drive my 2013 for like a month. I just went and picked up lunch with it and god drat it's a loving joy to drive, especially compared to the pickup I've been having to use.
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Apr 11, 2017 17:26
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Picking up my ND today. It's been almost a month since I dropped it off for repair, let's hope they didn't gently caress it up too much?
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Apr 11, 2017 17:43
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It took a dealership a whole month to fix your car?
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Apr 11, 2017 18:35
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GEMorris posted:It took a dealership a whole month to fix your car? they had a bunch of parts on backorder. also not a dealership. are you supposed to get cars repaired at dealerships?
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Apr 11, 2017 18:59
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Very very few dealerships have in-house body shops. They almost always outsource/refer that sort of thing.
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Apr 11, 2017 19:12
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I didn't know what had happened to your car, and I've never had to get bodywork done to a new car so I'm not familiar with the experience of parts being on backorder. No I don't think anyone is supposed to get work done at a dealership, I just assumed it was warranty work and didn't think about accident damage.
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Apr 11, 2017 21:00
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Bodywork takes for ever if they need any new panels, mine took weeks
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Apr 11, 2017 21:03
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I need some suspension advice for my NA8 w/ 97k miles. I'm fairly certain it's on the original suspension and it feels like the entire car shudders when I hit a sizable bump in the road. What's a good OEM-style replacement? It's a sunday driver that I take on the twisties, not a track or autocross car. Is it something I could DIY with no experience other than oil changes?
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Apr 11, 2017 21:06
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willroc7 posted:Is it something I could DIY with no experience other than oil changes? If what you're doing is replacing the shocks+springs, probably. If you have a socket and wrench set (metric obviously), some patience and general mechanical non-retardedness you can likely do it. It of course involves quite a few steps and it can take some perseverance to wrangle the shocks in and out of where they go, but there's nothing particularly tricky about it. There are pretty good guides available showing just what to unbolt to get at them. Biggest problem would probably be if those bolts are rusted and siezed, but on my >200000km -97 the only thing that was stuck were the two bolts for one of the rear sway bar droplinks (so now I have 14mm on one side and 15mm on the other...)
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Apr 11, 2017 21:32
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I got the car back. it's perfect and beautiful and i'm never driving it again
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Apr 11, 2017 21:55
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willroc7 posted:I need some suspension advice for my NA8 w/ 97k miles. I'm fairly certain it's on the original suspension and it feels like the entire car shudders when I hit a sizable bump in the road. What's a good OEM-style replacement? It's a sunday driver that I take on the twisties, not a track or autocross car. Is it something I could DIY with no experience other than oil changes? OTS Koni yellows and replace the bumpstops with some FCM ones. You can borrow/rent spring compressors from your favorite local auto parts store.
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Apr 11, 2017 22:05
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willroc7 posted:I need some suspension advice for my NA8 w/ 97k miles. I'm fairly certain it's on the original suspension and it feels like the entire car shudders when I hit a sizable bump in the road. Motor mounts, they're relatively cheap and easy to do and there are factory upgrade ones. I had the exact same thing going on once. Does the shifter move getting on and off throttle?
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Apr 12, 2017 00:19
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 04:03 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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Apr 12, 2017 00:36
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craig588 posted:Motor mounts, they're relatively cheap and easy to do and there are factory upgrade ones. I had the exact same thing going on once. Does the shifter move getting on and off throttle? Mine moves around a bunch too ('95 NA8) - I'm going to do motor mounts, shocks/struts, bump stops, and bushings if possible. Any reason to do the Koni's over Bilsteins? Also whats a good rollbar for track days? I think that's all I'm really missing and I really want to do one soon.
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Apr 12, 2017 14:08
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Thanks for all the feedback. I'll look into either doing or getting the motor mounts and suspension done.
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Apr 12, 2017 14:32
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willroc7 posted:I need some suspension advice for my NA8 w/ 97k miles. I'm fairly certain it's on the original suspension and it feels like the entire car shudders when I hit a sizable bump in the road. What's a good OEM-style replacement? It's a sunday driver that I take on the twisties, not a track or autocross car. Is it something I could DIY with no experience other than oil changes? It's not terribly complicated but if you have another vehicle to drive while you work on it then surely you can get through it eventually. I'd recommend just some off the shelf Bilsteins if you aren't doing anything crazy with it. (aka you don't need adjustable shocks, IMO but if they're same/similar price then get Konis) FCM Top mounts are a good suggestion and will let the suspension work as it should instead of riding on the bump stops all the time. I only ever did suspension work by not doing the "long bolt" method. I believe I just undid the ball joint(s) and pivoted the lower control arm down instead of unbolting the control arms. It was pretty easy and I didn't have to deal with that giant potentially seized bolt. The rears are even easier from what I recall. Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 15:24 on Apr 12, 2017 |
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Apr 12, 2017 15:21
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