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Good, I think I just needed someone to put my mind at ease. Also I finally ordered the Dowco Weatherall like I should have before winter. They're on sale right now, too! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HS1356/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495491590&sr=sr-1
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# ? May 22, 2017 23:20 |
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# ? Jun 6, 2024 07:04 |
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Oh 2 years old? It looks like a bilt one, too. That's normal and fine. Also, bilt covers for life because you don't want anyone to think there is anything worth stealing under it.
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# ? May 23, 2017 00:05 |
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rip it some and cut it some and see if the ripped edges look like the cut edges thats how they do it on csi try it
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# ? May 23, 2017 00:33 |
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dowco weatheralls are really good!
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# ? May 23, 2017 00:46 |
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That's how ripstop usually fails. Tents/rainflies do it that way, anyhow.Coydog posted:Oh 2 years old? It looks like a bilt one, too. That's normal and fine.
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# ? May 23, 2017 01:10 |
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I don't know....... that looks like way too clean of a cut. I have a deteriorating cover now (also cheap) and the rips created by degradation due to UV exposure are a lot more ragged than that, like tears instead of cuts. Mine is (or, was) made out of some kind of green plastic/vinyl with soft backing.
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# ? May 23, 2017 12:48 |
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I need to replace something on my little Honda CB300F but I'm not sure where I'd typically get the best deals. Do I go through my local motorsports dealer? The nearest Honda dealer? eBay? Amazon? I guess more generally, where are the best places to start my search for OEM replacement parts?
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# ? May 25, 2017 17:57 |
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IAmKale posted:I need to replace something on my little Honda CB300F but I'm not sure where I'd typically get the best deals. Do I go through my local motorsports dealer? The nearest Honda dealer? eBay? Amazon? I guess more generally, where are the best places to start my search for OEM replacement parts? I usually go to Ron Ayers. They have brand-rear end new OEM parts for most Japanese bikes, and they ship pretty quickly. Ebay is a good place to try too, they have randoms selling parts they took off their bikes. You can get used but super cheap parts for nearly anything. If you don't know what the part is called, or the part number, go to Ron Ayers and look through the parts fiche for your bike.
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# ? May 25, 2017 19:03 |
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McLarenF1 posted:Are there any Seattle goons out there who like to take long weekend rides in the mountains? Yer Harvey tainted
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# ? May 26, 2017 00:55 |
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GriszledMelkaba posted:Yer Harvey tainted It never washes off
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# ? May 26, 2017 02:16 |
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I prefer to think of them as battle scars
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# ? May 27, 2017 06:46 |
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Is there a overwhelming reason to get a motorcycle-specific GPS over a handheld like the GPSMAP 64? It's waterproof, $200+ less, and I would think buttons would be more dependable than a touchscreen.
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# ? May 27, 2017 16:20 |
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IAmKale posted:I need to replace something on my little Honda CB300F but I'm not sure where I'd typically get the best deals. Do I go through my local motorsports dealer? The nearest Honda dealer? eBay? Amazon? I guess more generally, where are the best places to start my search for OEM replacement parts? I use motosport, formerly kneedraggers, for everything. I like the prices and cash forward, but stay with them for the customer service. Shipping is good too. My 2 cents, I'm sure there's better probably, but eh.
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# ? May 28, 2017 00:08 |
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Slide Hammer posted:I don't know....... that looks like way too clean of a cut. I have a deteriorating cover now (also cheap) and the rips created by degradation due to UV exposure are a lot more ragged than that, like tears instead of cuts. Mine is (or, was) made out of some kind of green plastic/vinyl with soft backing. Without knowing exactly the construction of that cover, I've got a few Kelty rainflies in my garage right now awaiting repair that look like they've been cut with fancy fabric scissors. Something about the weave of super lightweight ripstop just makes them fail in perfectly straight lines, and every now and then they even throw in a perfect right angle turn. Not to say that Dutymode's cover wasn't absolutely cut, but they definitely can rip on their own under wind and age without any fraying or raggedness at all.
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# ? May 28, 2017 00:58 |
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A recent trip to Europe has inspired me to start using Yamaha Zuma again...it's been sitting for about two years. I didn't take any measures before letting it sit, what all should I have done to get it going again? It still turns over/starts just fine. Also, the screws that let you top up the brake fluid are totally rusted over. Will a generic option like this fit my bike? https://www.amazon.com/Front-Master-Cylinder-Mirror-Scooter/dp/B00AMAHJ6Q
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# ? May 28, 2017 01:47 |
Rock My Socks! posted:A recent trip to Europe has inspired me to start using Yamaha Zuma again...it's been sitting for about two years. Take the carb out and clean it. Much better than a lovely genetic MC is to just drill the screws and replace them instead.
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# ? May 28, 2017 03:14 |
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Eh if it starts and runs just fine I wouldn't gently caress with the carb. The gas running through it will clean out any varnish that might be there pretty quickly. If it jams up from grit, well, then's the time to take it apart. Check the tires for cracks, dry rot, nails, etc. Look up how to read a tire's date code, find out how old yours are, and replace them if they're more than 5 years old regardless of how they look. Make sure the suspension (such that there is) and steering doesn't bind and that the brakes work correctly. Look for any signs of fluids dripping out and check the levels of everything. Get the battery tested if you feel like it. Other than that there isn't a lot to go wrong
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# ? May 28, 2017 03:19 |
Sagebrush posted:Eh if it starts and runs just fine I wouldn't gently caress with the carb. The gas running through it will clean out any varnish that might be there pretty quickly. If it jams up from grit, well, then's the time to take it apart. After two years' sitting I'm inclined to disagree. I've never seen a bike sit for that long and not have some brutal carb clogging but could happen I guess? But listen to this man otherwise: Sagebrush posted:Check the tires for cracks, dry rot, nails, etc. Look up how to read a tire's date code, find out how old yours are, and replace them if they're more than 5 years old regardless of how they look. Make sure the suspension (such that there is) and steering doesn't bind and that the brakes work correctly. Look for any signs of fluids dripping out and check the levels of everything. Get the battery tested if you feel like it. Other than that there isn't a lot to go wrong
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# ? May 28, 2017 05:45 |
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My favorite test to just shake it violently and bounce up and down seated on it. Any rattles should be diagnosed. Squeaks are ok
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# ? May 28, 2017 07:56 |
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Fauxtool posted:My favorite test to just shake it violently and bounce up and down seated on it. Any rattles should be diagnosed. Squeaks are ok This is a good test. Also slam some loving seafoam in that thing and get wot on it. Scooters are robust.
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# ? May 28, 2017 10:00 |
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Yeah sea foam the crap out of it. My winterization process now involves running sea foam through in the first tank of spring just to catch any crud from winter.
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# ? May 28, 2017 13:46 |
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I'm not sure that Seafoam does anything other than make a big smoke show and convince you it's doing something. It's like the automotive equivalent of those "cleansing" diets that just make you poop a lot
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# ? May 28, 2017 17:25 |
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Tips on getting that brownish rust off an exhaust system?
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# ? May 28, 2017 18:19 |
Sagebrush posted:I'm not sure that Seafoam does anything other than make a big smoke show and convince you it's doing something. I don't see how seafoam can cause anything but harm if you're dealing with a CV carb.
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# ? May 28, 2017 19:55 |
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Sagebrush posted:I'm not sure that Seafoam does anything other than make a big smoke show and convince you it's doing something. pooping alot is pretty good for your general health. It wouldn't help if you are already regular but so many people arent.
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# ? May 28, 2017 20:05 |
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Yall got a good video on revmatching? Youtubing it just gives me idiotic vlogs that are 99% some moron talking unrelated poo poo for 15 mins interspersed with garbage advice. I'm trying to get a decent visual guide for two newbies. It's a bit hard to show them while sitting on the bike.
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# ? May 28, 2017 21:12 |
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M42 posted:Yall got a good video on revmatching? Youtubing it just gives me idiotic vlogs that are 99% some moron talking unrelated poo poo for 15 mins interspersed with garbage advice. I'm trying to get a decent visual guide for two newbies. It's a bit hard to show them while sitting on the bike. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20Wx4YrZ55I&t=3549s
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# ? May 28, 2017 21:26 |
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A friend's bike was dropped and the clutch lever perch sheared off the master cylinder. We put on a random other clutch MC we had lying around, and it worked fine during a half-hour test ride. Then during a longer ride, the clutch started slipping. We checked the fluid level, and put on another lever (the one that belongs with the MC, instead of the fancier aftermarket one we was using with the MC that broke). This fixed the problem, and we assumed that the incorrect lever in combination with the engine getting up to temperature was the culprit. The next day, same thing, clutch starts slipping after about 45 mins of riding. This time we removed the lever and had him ride around without a clutch at all, and in that case, no slippage. Any idea what's up?
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# ? May 28, 2017 22:14 |
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High Protein posted:A friend's bike was dropped and the clutch lever perch sheared off the master cylinder. We put on a random other clutch MC we had lying around, and it worked fine during a half-hour test ride. Then during a longer ride, the clutch started slipping. We checked the fluid level, and put on another lever (the one that belongs with the MC, instead of the fancier aftermarket one we was using with the MC that broke). This fixed the problem, and we assumed that the incorrect lever in combination with the engine getting up to temperature was the culprit. The next day, same thing, clutch starts slipping after about 45 mins of riding. This time we removed the lever and had him ride around without a clutch at all, and in that case, no slippage. Any idea what's up? Usually if it's going to poo poo when riding / hot it's the slave cylinder.
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# ? May 29, 2017 02:45 |
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Symptoms: front brake spongy, but only sometimes. Inconsistent, not like air bubble where pull gets harder after the first time. Been bled to hell and back at the mc, at the calipers, tapped all over. Is this a sign that I need to rebuild the mc, or is there just some real rear end in a top hat bubble somewhere? Thank.
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# ? May 29, 2017 19:23 |
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M42 posted:Symptoms: front brake spongy, but only sometimes. Inconsistent, not like air bubble where pull gets harder after the first time. Been bled to hell and back at the mc, at the calipers, tapped all over. Is this a sign that I need to rebuild the mc, or is there just some real rear end in a top hat bubble somewhere? I've had something like that: -Brakes sometimes soft on first pull after starting the bike, second pull they were fine -Sometimes a soft pull here and there after riding for a while -During a track day went extremely soft, probably boiling fluid -Dealer couldn't reproduce it but gave me a new MC under warranty, didn't fix it. Only thing I can think of, is that it was due to the cheap eBay brake levers I was using, I've heard of those ever so slightly engaging the front brake, leading to overheating fluid. But that didn't really fit my symptoms, and I sold the bike (with the original levers mounted) before I could mess around with it any further.
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# ? May 29, 2017 20:23 |
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Nothing like watching instructional videos to remind me that I'm a terrible rider and that my commute is allowing me to get away with and reinforce bad habits.
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# ? May 30, 2017 05:46 |
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Fifty Three posted:Nothing like watching instructional videos to remind me that I'm a terrible rider and that my commute is allowing me to get away with and reinforce bad habits. you and me both.
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# ? May 30, 2017 05:53 |
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M42 posted:Symptoms: front brake spongy, but only sometimes. Inconsistent, not like air bubble where pull gets harder after the first time. Been bled to hell and back at the mc, at the calipers, tapped all over. Is this a sign that I need to rebuild the mc, or is there just some real rear end in a top hat bubble somewhere? Is this your gixxer, and is it the OEM MC? Those MCs had a massive recall on them.
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# ? May 30, 2017 05:56 |
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Nah, R1 mc on the sv. I swapped to it when i did the handlebar install. I did have to fill up brand new empty brake lines, so it's possible I just did it poorly... but the inconsistency is a bit weird if it's an air bubble
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# ? May 30, 2017 11:31 |
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Z3n posted:To go back to the earlier tire plug conversation - I was a true believer in the mushroom type plugs but they have one major flaw - they're not self vulcanizing so if they're up against a cord in the tire, the cord will eventually saw through the plug. You also can't jam multiple plugs into a large hole or split like you can with the rope type ones, so these days I use the rope type. There was a Japanese company that made a self vulcanizing mushroom plug but they seem to have gone out of business http://www.maruni-ind.co.jp/en/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/STICK-QUIK-PLUG.pdf If these are the guys you're talking about, the latest news item on their home page was in April.
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# ? Jun 1, 2017 15:08 |
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What is a good place to get quality bearings? I need wheel bearings for the elite. Everything on amazon and eBay seems to be Chinese garbage. Ronayers doesn't stock the ones i need, but I can't find non-dodgy suppliers.
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# ? Jun 1, 2017 16:48 |
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McMaster-Carr?
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# ? Jun 1, 2017 17:58 |
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Seconding McMaster-Carr, I've also had luck with VXB stuff fulfilled through Amazon prime.
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# ? Jun 1, 2017 18:02 |
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# ? Jun 6, 2024 07:04 |
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Good call hadn't thought of McMaster Carr
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# ? Jun 1, 2017 18:18 |