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Mine did that forever. Just a thing they do.
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Aug 14, 2017 15:01
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ionn posted:In what way do they feel worse? Some other people have said something similar, but others say all NB 6-speed gearboxes are identical, the only difference being the diff (thorsen or open, and different ratios).
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Aug 15, 2017 01:54
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Does anyone have a problem with the bolts holding the front under tray coming loose? I've had to re-tighten some of them twice and have actually lost one. edit: It's an ND.
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Aug 15, 2017 04:33
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Anyone have a service manual for the 2016 ND soft-top? Alternatively, what's the name for the seatbelt-webbing-type-fabric straps on the interior of the convertible top on the ND? Because both of mine have broken and the closest dealership is an hour and a half away from work and if I can't describe it well enough on the phone I'll have to waste a day driving over there and waiting on them.
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Aug 17, 2017 03:28
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Convertible top tension band. Here's the TSB for it: https://www.miata.net/garage/tsb/Convertible%20Top%20Tension%20Band%20detached%20from%20Header%20Panel%20and%20hanging%20down.pdf
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Aug 17, 2017 05:28
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thank you!!!
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Aug 17, 2017 09:05
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Hey all, I thought I would share this here since its all NA miata parts. Someone else posted about the game I'm making a few pages back and I just released a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YlsobMyM8rQ
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Aug 17, 2017 16:11
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ChickenOfTomorrow posted:Anyone have a service manual for the 2016 ND soft-top? https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=606495&page=3&highlight=service+manual There's a google drive link in there for the updated service manual. The exe runs a web server to browse it; seems to be fine all the times I've used it.
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Aug 17, 2017 16:14
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asmasm posted:Hey all, This looks cool as hell. Like a good, functioning version of CMS2018. Any plans to release something on early access? I just bought a '90 NA (w/ 39k miles, thanks upstate NY) and something like this would be great practice for totally loving up the real thing.
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Aug 17, 2017 16:31
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I'm hoping to avoid early access but might end up there if the money runs out before I'm finished 
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Aug 17, 2017 20:49
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Finally got some good weather today, and my sphereology knob came in, so I took the new NA up to the lake for a (lousy phone camera) photo. Aside from a few minor cosmetic issues, and a slightly melted door seal, it seems to be in fantastic shape for a '90. I still love my RF to death but I'm coming around on the openness of the soft top. First thing I plan to do is rebuild the shifter. Any thoughts on the 5X Racing shifer rebuild kit w/ the bronze bushing replacement? snack soul fucked around with this message at 21:52 on Aug 18, 2017 |
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Aug 18, 2017 21:24
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snack soul posted:Finally got some good weather today, and my sphereology knob came in, so I took the new NA up to the lake for a (lousy phone camera) photo.
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Aug 20, 2017 23:15
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 Red NA buddy?I finally got mine registered and back together after putting in new heatercore hoses and an entire carpet. Running really nicely but I need new shocks. Took a drive from the Poconos to Upstate NY and then back down to Westchester NY. drat the roads downstate are bad. Bilsteins a solid choice? 
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Aug 21, 2017 18:30
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Voltage posted:
I'd lean towards Koni's or Tokico's, but it depends on your budget. I'm running Illuminas with FM springs.
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Aug 22, 2017 01:42
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On the 6-speed chat, I've got an 03 and my 1-2 shift is pretty clanky and there is a 20% chance I don't actually catch reverse when I go for it straight from a forward gear. Rebuilt the shifter and it firmed up the feel of the box overall but didn't help with either of those issues.
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Aug 22, 2017 01:44
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GP035 posted:I'd lean towards Koni's or Tokico's, but it depends on your budget. I'm running Illuminas with FM springs. I'm leaning a bit more towards comfort, since I mainly drive in the NYC metro area with terrible roads, but I still rip it on back roads when I have the chance. I may also go down in rim size to a 15 or 14 with fatter sticky tires since I'm running 16's now and they seem a little large. Basically now I have bone stock suspension from 1995 which feels blown out. Currently I brace for impact every time a bump in the road comes up. I Was planning on ordering all new shocks, bump stops, mounts, and rubber bushings. Are there any aftermarket springs that will improve the actual ride quality over stock? Budget is nota huge concern since I plan on making this a "forever" car. It's 100% rust free and I want any upgrades to be for the long haul.
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Aug 22, 2017 03:15
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When I sold my 99 nearly 10 years ago, tire selection was getting poor on 14" wheels. I would absolutely not go below 15 if you want sticky tires, and I'd probably stick with the 16s you have.
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Aug 22, 2017 04:13
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185.65.14 is still a popular enough size, lots of brands have good options for it. I'm planning to pick up Pirelli P4s for my next set, but I can't justify getting them for around another 20-30k or so
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Aug 22, 2017 10:48
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If I were building a street Miata, I'd 100% try to find some MSM Bilsteins, put sleeves on them and run something like 375/325 springs, (or whatever) with 15x7 or 15x8 wheels. There's a lot of different Miata Bilsteins.
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Aug 22, 2017 14:58
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Sentient Data posted:185.65.14 is still a popular enough size, lots of brands have good options for it. I'm planning to pick up Pirelli P4s for my next set, but I can't justify getting them for around another 20-30k or so Lots of brands have options for it... like. Star Spec Azenis .. or you can have lovely all seasons. 14s are a dead size. 205/50/15 will be good for a long long time. For winter tires you can still get X-ices in 14 though
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Aug 22, 2017 15:02
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I want to live in a world where 14's aren't dead and 19+ only exists on supercars with big as your head brakes 
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Aug 23, 2017 20:04
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djfooboo posted:I want to live in a world where 13's aren't dead and 19+ only exists on supercars with big as your head brakes Fixed.
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Aug 23, 2017 20:53
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I tried to drive my Miata this morning but I noticed the headlights don't pop up. The hazards don't work either. I had a radio installed recently. Is there something during the install that could've caused this? It's a 1990 if that matters. Edit: the headlights don't pop up pressing the button or turning the lights on with the stalk. mariooncrack fucked around with this message at 14:47 on Aug 25, 2017 |
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Aug 25, 2017 14:44
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Check your fuses first and foremost. If your installer was a hack he might have hosed up some wiring in your dash, but it's likely he just blew a fuse while installing it and didn't notice.
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Aug 25, 2017 14:48
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mariooncrack posted:I tried to drive my Miata this morning but I noticed the headlights don't pop up. The hazards don't work either. I had a radio installed recently. Is there something during the install that could've caused this? The popup/hazard light switch connector is disconnected. Pull the tombstone out and reconnect it.
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Aug 25, 2017 16:23
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PSA if you're tired of the terrible dome light in your NB (and NA I'm guessing too?). Mitsubishi used the same mold for the cargo light in the lancer hatch, except they used clear plastic so it's a $7 direct swap, afterwards you can keep the old dome light to use for viewing the next eclipse in 2024! Mitsubishi Part # MR951527  
Niven fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Aug 25, 2017 |
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Aug 25, 2017 16:33
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Niven posted:PSA if you're tired of the terrible dome light in your NB (and NA I'm guessing too?). Mitsubishi used the same mold for the cargo light in the lancer hatch, except they used clear plastic so it's a $7 direct swap, afterwards you can keep the old dome light to use for viewing the next eclipse in 2024! Who needs a dome light when you have clear skies above you? (just kidding, thanks for sharing. the plastic cover on mine looks exactly like yours, can't see poo poo through it)
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Aug 25, 2017 17:38
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mariooncrack posted:I tried to drive my Miata this morning but I noticed the headlights don't pop up. The hazards don't work either. I had a radio installed recently. Is there something during the install that could've caused this? Nocheez posted:Check your fuses first and foremost. If your installer was a hack he might have hosed up some wiring in your dash, but it's likely he just blew a fuse while installing it and didn't notice. 99% sure who ever installed your stereo connected the wire that senses when the headlights turn on(usually labeled illumination) wrong. I did the exact same thing on my first car, except it had the fun behavior where it only took out my brake/tail lights, but left my headlights alone so it took a bit too long to figure that one out... slurry_curry fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Aug 25, 2017 |
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Aug 25, 2017 19:05
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slurry_curry posted:99% sure who ever installed your stereo connected the wire that senses when the headlights turn on(usually labeled illumination) wrong. I did the exact same thing on my first car, except it had the fun behavior where it only took out my brake/tail lights, but left my headlights alone so it took a bit too long to figure that one out... Konrad posted:The popup/hazard light switch connector is disconnected. Pull the tombstone out and reconnect it. These are both also good things to check. The hazard light switch is a definite possibility.
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Aug 25, 2017 19:41
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It's the hazard switch. I've made that mistake at least three times....
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Aug 25, 2017 19:55
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Thanks for the responses. I did some more testing when I got home yesterday. All of the lights seem to work, except the headights don't pop up and hazards don't work. Brake lights work and all other lights seem to work. I'm thinking hazard switch is the culprit. I haven't had a chance to look at it, hopefully tomorrow.
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Aug 26, 2017 23:44
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mariooncrack posted:Thanks for the responses. I did some more testing when I got home yesterday. All of the lights seem to work, except the headights don't pop up and hazards don't work. Brake lights work and all other lights seem to work. I'm thinking hazard switch is the culprit. I haven't had a chance to look at it, hopefully tomorrow. Takes about 5 min with a screwdriver to pull the tombstone. Probably just forgot to plug it back in.
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Aug 27, 2017 12:47
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Well I done hosed up (again) - I was replacing the front crank seal when I nicked the oil pump mating surface (you know, just like all the guides tell you not to! I do things my own way). It isn't a long scratch, but a single spot located roughly as in the following perfect engineering diagram:  How screwed would you guys say I am? I'd prefer it if you said "not screwed at all" - I put the new seal in but now I'm wondering if I should remove it (maybe scratching it again!), get a new seal, and lay down some RTV or something before installation.
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Aug 29, 2017 15:33
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The lip seals against the crank, which is the most important part. The body of the seal should be able to cover that. You could wipe a little bit of RTV on it when you put the new seal in if you really want to replace it again. It'll be fine unless the scratch is really bad.
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Aug 30, 2017 04:16
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Have any of you hairdressers owned or driven an NC with the 2.5 Duratec swap? Is it worth it? I've been looking to pick up a NA miata as my first RWD project car but a 2006 NC with the 2.5 swap popped up on Craigslist for only a few grand more than the nicer NA Miatas are going for. I'm struggling to find a reasonably priced NA that hasn't been riced to death by kids.
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Sep 4, 2017 18:48
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Niven posted:PSA if you're tired of the terrible dome light in your NB (and NA I'm guessing too?). Mitsubishi used the same mold for the cargo light in the lancer hatch, except they used clear plastic so it's a $7 direct swap, afterwards you can keep the old dome light to use for viewing the next eclipse in 2024! You can also stick one of these instead of the standard bulb. I have one with the shittier 5630 LEDs and they're bright as gently caress even with the standard cover.  http://www.ebay.com/itm/12SMD-5050-LED-Festoon-Dome-Light-Panel-Interior-Lamp-Bulb-T10-BA9S-DC-12V-/291646387220?hash=item43e77ab414
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Sep 4, 2017 19:21
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Nohearum posted:Have any of you hairdressers owned or driven an NC with the 2.5 Duratec swap? Is it worth it? I've been looking to pick up a NA miata as my first RWD project car but a 2006 NC with the 2.5 swap popped up on Craigslist for only a few grand more than the nicer NA Miatas are going for. I'm struggling to find a reasonably priced NA that hasn't been riced to death by kids. I'm looking to get out of my 94 NA with a VVT swap if you're interested. It needs work but comes with some $$$ parts ready to go in.
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Sep 4, 2017 22:54
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Nohearum posted:Have any of you hairdressers owned or driven an NC with the 2.5 Duratec swap? Is it worth it? I've been looking to pick up a NA miata as my first RWD project car but a 2006 NC with the 2.5 swap popped up on Craigslist for only a few grand more than the nicer NA Miatas are going for. I'm struggling to find a reasonably priced NA that hasn't been riced to death by kids. Have you considered a NB? They're getting to be around the same price in my area with the price of NAs creeping up. In general, they say not to buy someone else's project car.
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Sep 5, 2017 01:36
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There are two company smart cars that park on my street and often stick two cars into what's regularly one spot. That's great, but more than one can play that game   I was a bit worried I left too little space but actually that should be plenty.
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Sep 5, 2017 10:26
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Any recommendations for NC rotors/pads? Had the dealership replace them the last time, but for the price I have a feeling I can get much better aftermarket stuff and do it myself.
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Sep 5, 2017 20:57
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