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Mugaaz posted:Recommendations on lighting, both stand up and desk options? (For painting, not pics) I have a similar lamp to this and it's quite decent. Not bulletproof in build, but about the entry point to swing arm lamps that aren't reinforced with plastic. Very bright and white light and dimmable.
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Nov 2, 2017 07:47
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Bachtere posted:mans I missed your painting dude, glad to see you painting stuff again.
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Nov 2, 2017 16:14
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I've had some paint in the ferrules of some of my sable brushes and was looking to restore them. I have them sitting in Windsor and Newton brush cleaner/restorer and they'll be ready to work with when I get home. Is there a go-to way to clean out the paint from here? Internet says use a sewing pin to get the paint out slowly. I have an ultrasonic cleaner, anything specific I can do with that?
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Nov 2, 2017 16:37
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I use The Master's Brush Cleaner for every day maintenance, and Weber's Turpenoid Natural to restore brushes when i gently caress them up.
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Nov 2, 2017 16:58
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I'm sure there are edgelords in China who love Imperial Japan. There are plenty of neonazis in Russia, after all.
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Nov 2, 2017 17:17
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Eifert Posting posted:I'm sure there are edgelords in China who love Imperial Japan. There are plenty of neonazis in Russia, after all. They're usually wehraboos or people who actually know the history of Nationalist China and are Nationalist apologists, which is a crime in China called historical nihilism. There's probably a lot of Imperial Japan edgelords in Taiwan though for obvious reasons. There isn't a huge war gaming culture in Mainland China because the economy hasn't really allowed it until recently and the educational system doesn't really support having hobbies.
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Nov 2, 2017 18:07
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Quidthulhu posted:More on camera talk, does anyone have a particular starter level DSLR they enjoy using to document their minis Hixson recently started, but has improved a lot. I'm sure he can tell you more.
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Nov 2, 2017 19:35
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BULBASAUR posted:Hixson recently started, but has improved a lot. I'm sure he can tell you more. Die in a fire
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Nov 2, 2017 19:46
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Real talk though. Generally speaking, the more diffused light you put on the model the better the pics will turn out. Direct light blows out your highlights and can add glare. This is why light boxes are nice. They come with lights and fabric to diffuse the light. A good alternative is just use indirect daylight coming through a window, or shoot outdoors on an overcast day. For reference, this setup:  Produced this image:  As far as cameras, if you're going for a dslr anything with manual control works great. Go for a realllly narrow aperture, as low of a iso as it can get, and a long shutter speed. This widens the dof so you get the whole model in focus. Also phone cameras are dang good now a' days. Screw around with the exposure and see what sticks. I know this started as a bulba-troll; but I hope it helps somebody 
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Nov 2, 2017 19:58
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If you're using a phone camera the Open Camera app is pretty good, free, and no ads. My OE app was giving me horrible pictures with no exposure adjustment and blowing out highlights, but mucking with Open Camera got me more usable results.
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Nov 2, 2017 20:20
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 progress on the primaris ancient I asked advice for earlier. I think he's neaaaarly done, just need to do some cleanup and decide wtf I'm going to write on that banner in the middle. I was going to write the chapter name but because of the sculp it would probably read RAP TORS
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Nov 2, 2017 20:38
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Hixson posted:Real talk though. Generally speaking, the more diffused light you put on the model the better the pics will turn out. Direct light blows out your highlights and can add glare. Phone cameras are pretty nifty. Last year I did this guide to compensate for my older camera phone richyp posted:In terms of lightboxes, I made a ghetto box out of cardboard box that I cut the top and front off, then I taped the top of a sheet of white paper to the back, and the taped the bottom to the under side of the box making sure that the paper was curved rather than creased (so there's no sharp line on the picture). Here's a shot of it: Now I skip the white balance part and have a white paper lid for my ghetto box that my painting light shines through (Can't even seem to get a decent SLR picture any more as my phone seems to tweak the settings better): richyp posted:How close are you taking the photos? Try about 10-12" away in front of a plain background (I use white, some people prefer dark) with a lamp over the mini. I put some paper towel over mine to reduce the shadows it casts. With my cell phone camera's autofocus mode I seem to get better images than my SLR in Macro this way.
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Nov 2, 2017 21:25
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I made another thing. Specifically it is a set of scans of the swatch book I've made so I can see the colors of all my paints, plus commentary and explanation of how I made it. Sample pages:    This thing took me months. The Imgur album is 50 images long. I hope some people find it useful. Stephenls fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Nov 2, 2017 |
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Nov 2, 2017 21:43
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holy poo poo dude
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Nov 2, 2017 21:55
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Good work
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Nov 2, 2017 22:00
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BULBASAUR posted:holy poo poo dude w00tmonger posted:Good work Thanks!
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Nov 2, 2017 22:23
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Stephenls posted:I made another thing. These are awesome too!
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Nov 3, 2017 00:23
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Stephenls posted:I made another thing. You beautiful bastard, this is awesome.
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Nov 3, 2017 01:31
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RocknRollaAyatollah posted:They're usually wehraboos or people who actually know the history of Nationalist China and are Nationalist apologists, which is a crime in China called historical nihilism. There's probably a lot of Imperial Japan edgelords in Taiwan though for obvious reasons. I saw a teen walking down the street in Chengdu with an Imp guard starter box and I regret not saying sup. 
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Nov 3, 2017 02:16
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Eifert Posting posted:I saw a teen walking down the street in Chengdu with an Imp guard starter box and I regret not saying sup. There was a girl in her 20's getting on a bus in Shanghai with a rulebook for 40K and she got on the bus before I put two and two together.  The GW store in Shanghai was surreal because it was exactly the same as one in the US, prices and everything. Everything down to the fixtures and one guy working the store.
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Nov 3, 2017 03:53
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Cross-posting from 40k thread. C+C welcome. Could use any tips to get better!Mugaaz posted:I painted a mans. Just got done with Mortarion for my DG army. Been working on him slowly since his release. This is about as good as I can paint.
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Nov 3, 2017 05:54
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Stephenls...you're all right.
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Nov 3, 2017 06:19
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Mugaaz posted:Cross-posting from 40k thread. C+C welcome. Could use any tips to get better! Looking pretty amazing! To be hyper critical - your smoke should probably be brighter at the flame source, blacker further away, kind of weird that it does the opposite. The base could possibly use more depth, and variation on the red areas- too samey. Around the green pools, a transition may be effective - brown and/or green wash around the liquid to show that it effects the surroundings. On the gold areas, you could use an even brighter highlight for some details- it's a bit flat at the moment.
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Nov 3, 2017 06:36
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Wazzu posted:Looking pretty amazing! To be hyper critical - your smoke should probably be brighter at the flame source, blacker further away, kind of weird that it does the opposite. The base could possibly use more depth, and variation on the red areas- too samey. Around the green pools, a transition may be effective - brown and/or green wash around the liquid to show that it effects the surroundings. On the gold areas, you could use an even brighter highlight for some details- it's a bit flat at the moment. I agree with you for normal flame. Not sure about this noxious gas though, feels like it would be more like a chemical gas that is dispersing instead of a flame. I tried to put some variation in the red, but yeah there definitely a bit samey. I tried some stuff, but I don't have any ideas on what else to do.
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Nov 3, 2017 07:13
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Those wings are loving top-notch, though. Super-disgusting, which is right on target.
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Nov 3, 2017 12:28
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Mugaaz posted:I painted a mans. Just got done with Mortarion for my DG army. Been working on him slowly since his release. This is about as good as I can paint.
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Nov 3, 2017 16:03
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Does this look right? should I blend the dust up a bit higher?
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Nov 3, 2017 16:16
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Mugaaz posted:Cross-posting from 40k thread. C+C welcome. Could use any tips to get better! This is straight up the best painted Mortarion I've seen. Those wings are incredible.
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Nov 3, 2017 16:23
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berzerkmonkey posted:Dude - you do realize that you did a great job, right? I think it looks awful and he should ship it to me for immediate Those wings are amazing, like gross fleshy beetle wings from my nightmares.
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Nov 3, 2017 16:54
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Pendent posted:This is straight up the best painted Mortarion I've seen. Those wings are incredible. Thank you, appreciate it goonbro
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Nov 3, 2017 17:10
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Pretty simple paint job for poxwalkers but I think it's effective. First time using blood for the blood god and I really like this stuff!
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Nov 3, 2017 17:52
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I'm a beginner and this (along with RichyP's earlier post about choosing starter paints) helped me tremendously. After waffling between a few blues, greens, and light browns, one glance at this gallery revealed the exact shades I had in mind. All the effort that went into this is appreciated.
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Nov 3, 2017 18:09
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Zuul the Cat posted:Does this look right? should I blend the dust up a bit higher? No, I think that looks good.
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Nov 3, 2017 18:43
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MasterSlowPoke posted:No, I think that looks good. I agree, don't go any further.
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Nov 3, 2017 19:30
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Thanks guys! I'll leave it there then. Decided to just match the basing of my Deathwatch with my AdMech, so if i ever field them together it'll be themed. Now to just replicate that dust effect on all my stuff! It wouldn't make sense to dust the blackstars, right?
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Nov 3, 2017 20:01
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I got a windsor & newton series 7 brush in the 1 size recently and I'm not really liking it. I think I take pretty good care of my brushes by making sure paint never gets more than halfway up, not letting paint dry, and washing with masters soap after use. Once I start painting with it it just seems to fray, and doesn't hold a good point. This is what the brush looks like after dipping in water and on a paper towel to paint with a different color:  If the brush is messed up I'm only out $15 but I'm definitely looking for something that can hold a fine point better than my synthetic brushes. edit: also they have a "miniature" line, should I have gotten that?
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Nov 3, 2017 20:03
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Booyah- posted:I got a windsor & newton series 7 brush in the 1 size recently and I'm not really liking it. I think I take pretty good care of my brushes by making sure paint never gets more than halfway up, not letting paint dry, and washing with masters soap after use. The Miniature line has a shorter bristle and doesn't have enough "belly" to hold paint, IMO. The regular series is good. I'm not sure what is going on with your brush - I have never had a W&N look like that, and I don't use brush soap that often. Did you get it from a legit seller? Maybe it's counterfeit? This may sound pedantic, but when you put the brush in the paint, do you drag it across, or stick it straight in? Do you shape your brush on the palette before touching it to the model? Do you store your brush with the cap on? I'm not saying you do this, but that looks like a brush that someone has mashed down on a model, like a kid will do with a cheap watercolor brush. berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 20:11 on Nov 3, 2017 |
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Nov 3, 2017 20:09
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berzerkmonkey posted:The Miniature line has a shorter bristle and doesn't have enough "belly" to hold paint, IMO. The regular series is good. That's what I thought it looked like too. I got it on amazon so I imagine it's legit. It definitely had some fray hairs when I got it though. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013E68T4 I always dip just the top half of paint in the brush, then twist it on the pallette slighty to make sure its a good point. I don't store them with brush caps when using them every day, but they are horizontal on a table arrange so that the brush can't be knocked or bumped by anything.
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Nov 3, 2017 20:19
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Booyah- posted:That's what I thought it looked like too. I got it on amazon so I imagine it's legit. It definitely had some fray hairs when I got it though. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013E68T4 Well, scammers can sell through Amazon too, so it's not necessarily a pedigree on the item you're buying. That being said, you may just have a bad brush - I'd contact the seller (though it will likely just route you through Amazon) and explain that the brush won't hold a point and is frayed. Just be courteous, and you'll either get a refund or a replacement (at that price, they will likely just give your money back.) Amazon is really good about returns for the most part (as long as it is still within the window.) At that point, buy another brush and see if it is any better - you either had a bad brush or a bad seller.
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Nov 3, 2017 20:38
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Zuul the Cat posted:Thanks guys! I'll leave it there then. Decided to just match the basing of my Deathwatch with my AdMech, so if i ever field them together it'll be themed. Now to just replicate that dust effect on all my stuff! I put some dust on the tops of the door ramps on mine. I should get to taking some more photos of my DW.
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Nov 3, 2017 20:45
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