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qirex posted:Any good sub will be able to be tweaked to work with your system. The main factors are budget and where you can fit the thing. Hmm, say $400 if I'm getting something amazing, but I'd rather spend half that. None of us in this house are what I'd call audiophiles. I guess you could say I'm very conscious of diminishing returns. I can sit the thing right next to the entertainment center if it doesn't look like rear end which means that I can't imagine a subwoofer that wouldn't fit.
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Feb 6, 2018 23:52
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For $400 I've seen the most good feedback on the RSL Speedwoofer 10S and the Emotiva BasX S12. Haven't heard either myself.
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Feb 6, 2018 23:57
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qirex posted:For all the hype that Elac's speakers get I never really hear anyone talk about their subs and there's probably a reason for that. For a similar price you could get an entry level Hsu, RSL, SVS or Rythmik. I'd love to but it's about as close as it's going to get.  It's exactly 6 feet away. I had the 505 in the corner on the left, which is probably a better spot sound wise, but I really want a chair there (that one is temporary) and not a big rear end speaker. That left wall stops right where the picture ends and my kitchen is in there, and there's also a big room behind the couch as well with no real walls (open floor plan). So even though my movie watching area is small, there's a lot of space to fill with sound. I got the elac on amazon and am still within the return window so I might just try one of those others.
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Feb 7, 2018 00:20
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I'd try to get it so it's not butted right up against your TV stand at a minimum. That's just asking for a lot of buzzing and humming at high levels
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Feb 7, 2018 00:49
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Panty Saluter posted:I'd try to get it so it's not butted right up against your TV stand at a minimum. That's just asking for a lot of buzzing and humming at high levels Nothing is touching if that's what you mean, I haven't had any sort of problems like that. e: the tv is wall mounted CheddarGoblin fucked around with this message at 02:38 on Feb 7, 2018 |
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Feb 7, 2018 02:14
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Thermopyle posted:Hmm, say $400 if I'm getting something amazing, but I'd rather spend half that. None of us in this house are what I'd call audiophiles. I guess you could say I'm very conscious of diminishing returns. Two hunnert dollar option https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-12-Inch-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B000092TT0
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Feb 7, 2018 04:42
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Thermopyle posted:I'm going back and forth on whether to get an AVR and pair it with the two good/decent Bose bookshelf speakers (I was given them and my Googlin leads me to believe they're ok) I have now and adding speakers over time as the budget allows, or to get a Vizio 5.1 soundbar. I'm considering the Denon AVRS730H at $350 or whatever Vizio 5.1 soundbar system is around that price, but someone could talk me out of that. 2 channel is exactly as good as 3 channel, as long as you're sitting close to directly in front of the TV. You have two ears, not three. I'd guess in typical scenarios 95% people are not going to notice not having a center channel, and out of the 5% that notice, 95% aren't really going to care. Bose gets poo poo on a lot (usually rightfully so) but they do (or at least have) made some decent speakers. They're just generally not very price effective. But the fact that they're free and the fact that they're older are both points in their favor. I'd rock a pair of vintage Bose 301s on a bookshelf in a heartbeat. With regard to soundbars I'd rather have a $100 pair of stereo speakers and a $300 receiver, than a $600 soundbar.
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Feb 8, 2018 05:44
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Thermopyle posted:Hmm, say $400 if I'm getting something amazing, but I'd rather spend half that. None of us in this house are what I'd call audiophiles. I guess you could say I'm very conscious of diminishing returns. https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-1500-15-150-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-634?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla
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Feb 8, 2018 05:53
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Just moved into a new house with a 27'x18' bonus room and planning out a little home theater/gaming room for myself and the kids. Trying to work out which components for the surround sound I want to get. I know I am starting with 5.1, but want to leave myself open for 7.1/7.2 in the future just in case. My wife isn't letting me spend a ridiculous amount of money for this so working within my budget I've got the following.. Receiver - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BY7YUKI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 Trying to decide on speakers here and coming to a decision is tough. On one hand I like the idea of in-wall / in-ceiling speakers for cleanliness, but for a room this size I don't want them to be under powered. At first I was going to pick up all Polk Audio RC85i in walls for the front left/right, RC80i 8" for the rear left/right and a 255C-RT for the center, and sub was a PSW505 12". Then while searching around based on those in-walls I came across Micca M8-S, M8-C and the M-CS center which seem to have ridiculously good reviews everywhere and they are obviously cheaper than the Polk speakers. Are would the Micca speakers be good enough? Seating in the room would be about ~13ft from the wall where the front's would be embedded and I'd put the rears in the ceiling just behind the couch at ~15ft - I don't need it to be insanely loud, but I want it to be clean sounding for movies and games. My other thought was to do the Micca M8-C in the ceiling and then for the fronts and center do Polk T50 floor standing speakers and T30 center resting on the media cabinet below the projector screen. Not sure which way to go. Any help would be awesome. thebushcommander fucked around with this message at 15:38 on Feb 8, 2018 |
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Feb 8, 2018 15:35
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Thermopyle posted:Hmm, say $400 if I'm getting something amazing, but I'd rather spend half that. Klipsch K-100SW is pretty cost effective: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=0S6-0033-001U0 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...&pf_rd_i=172568 Amazon link in case Newegg offer runs out. If looks matter, I'm partial to Klipsch R10SW: https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-Refe...10%22+subwoofer That Dayton sub is also something.
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Feb 8, 2018 17:19
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Went to a certain well-known high end audio shop today to demo SCM 11 + Hegel H80 combo. Me: These feel a little boomy to me. Guy: That's probably because you're using ALAC which is lossy. Me:  Guy: Yes, ALAC is lossy. Me: ALAC stands for "Apple Lossless Audio Codec." Guy: ALAC is lossy. Me: OK man. Guy: You should try it with some AIFF.
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Feb 8, 2018 22:48
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Hob_Gadling posted:Klipsch K-100SW is pretty cost effective: I am completely clueless about this subject so excuse me if this is a stupid question, but... I hate bass that is "boomy" as mentioned in the previous post. I'd like it to be "tight" (I do listen to some bass-heavy music if that makes any difference). Are any of these subs better or worse in this respect or is that more down to how you've configured the receiver and the room?
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Feb 9, 2018 00:21
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The room is definitely the most important part. For "tighter" bass the conventional wisdom is that sealed subs are better than ported ones which have more "impact" but there so many variables. A lot of people have their subs up way too high as well because they like having tons of bass
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Feb 9, 2018 00:39
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:Went to a certain well-known high end audio shop today to demo SCM 11 + Hegel H80 combo. I used to work with a guy who was sure that any compression would be lossy. It wasn't really worth trying to convince him otherwise. Panty Saluter fucked around with this message at 04:50 on Feb 10, 2018 |
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Feb 9, 2018 02:34
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qirex posted:For "tighter" bass the conventional wisdom is that sealed subs are better than ported ones which have more "impact" but there so many variables. Like a lot of conventional wisdom, it's wrong, or at least misleading. Sealed subs can be boomy or tight, ported subs can be boomy or tight, it all comes down to cabinet tuning, and not buying poo poo HTIB subs. quote:A lot of people have their subs up way too high as well because they like having tons of bass Also this.
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Feb 9, 2018 10:10
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If you like loving around with your stuff, you can really improve a sub's response with something like a miniDSP or digital eq on a PC (I used an old mac mini running linux) and a measurement microphone (I have a UMIK-1). Roomeqwizard is good software for making measurements. You can use the mic to adjust your receiver's EQ settings for the rest of the speakers, too. I built my sub tuned extra low and EQed out the hump. I was able to get much deeper response than I would have with a port tuned for flat response. Movies are really awesome. Just be ready to listen to test tones for awhile because it will probably take quite a few tries to get it just right. taqueso fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Feb 9, 2018 |
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Feb 9, 2018 23:38
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A firmware update and about 3 factory resets later and it just magically starts working. Jesus, the test sounds are dramatically louder then the first time I did this. My neighbors are gonna love me. Demon_Corsair fucked around with this message at 06:11 on Feb 10, 2018 |
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Feb 10, 2018 05:04
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I think a lot of the "ported subs are boomy" came about from cheap drivers and cheap manufacturers. Like if you're going to make a lovely sub you're going to port it just to get the efficiency bump. That doesn't mean ported subs are inferior in any way. "Tight" vs "boomy" probably has a lot more to do with "expensive" vs "cheap", than sealed vs ported, I guess.
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Feb 10, 2018 06:36
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veiled boner fuel posted:I think a lot of the "ported subs are boomy" came about from cheap drivers and cheap manufacturers. Like if you're going to make a lovely sub you're going to port it just to get the efficiency bump. That doesn't mean ported subs are inferior in any way. You can compare the driver to a motor and the amplifier to a controller trying to steer the motor precisely. A cheap driver tends to have a lot of moving mass compared to magnet/coil motor strength and will objectively tend to sound worse no matter what you do in a ported enclosure. You can mask some of this in a sealed enclosure because of the inherently better damping*, but it's still going to be meh when you push it. The same effect can be observed by pairing a good driver with an undersized amplifier. As you push the limits of what the amplifier can output, it will lose control over the driver and you get distortion in various forms. *This is my intuitive understanding, it's by no means entirely accurate.
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Feb 10, 2018 13:29
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That depends on the cabinet dimensions, and there is definitely a sweet spot (or range), for each specific driver. Woolly bass also depends on the amp. If the damping factor is too low (like on old tube amps, the "warm" sound), there is less control over the woofer, giving bigger boomier bass.
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Feb 10, 2018 16:05
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I'd like an in-line volume control on a 3.5mm aux cable with IR remote capability, anyone know of such a device?
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Feb 11, 2018 22:25
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I've had my 2.1 system set up for about a week now and it sounds fantastic. Denon X1400H receiver, Pioneer BS22 speakers and a Monoprice 9723 sub. Thanks to qirex for the recommendation on the receiver. Probably could have gotten slightly better speakers for the same price but I decided to go with a complete line that had an Atmos enabled option. I'll probably pick up the center and Atmos bookshelves in the next couple months, will report back then. You guys do good work here.
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Feb 12, 2018 21:21
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I have a couple of floor standing speakers on a wooden floor that’s pretty resonant. What’s an inexpensive material to put them on so they don’t rattle the floor quite so much?
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Feb 13, 2018 19:46
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skull mask mcgee posted:I have a couple of floor standing speakers on a wooden floor that’s pretty resonant. What’s an inexpensive material to put them on so they don’t rattle the floor quite so much? I use some big 2" sorbothane half spheres for my giant heavy speakers and some small 1" ones for my 3d printer and they work great.
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Feb 13, 2018 20:14
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skull mask mcgee posted:I have a couple of floor standing speakers on a wooden floor that’s pretty resonant. What’s an inexpensive material to put them on so they don’t rattle the floor quite so much? Squash balls cut in half on each corner.
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Feb 14, 2018 08:17
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If you have a subwoofer, I highly recommend the SVS SoundPath isolating feet.
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Feb 14, 2018 16:32
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Cut a golf ball in half with a band saw. Don't do this.
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Feb 14, 2018 21:31
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:If you have a subwoofer, I highly recommend the SVS SoundPath isolating feet. What are these? I have a SVS sub (which is awesome, btw) but just have it set up on the hardwood floor. Nothing under it at all. It's flat on the ground. It's in the corner and set right so that it provides the low end that my speakers can't deliver. And it's not boomy. It's nice being able to hear distinct bass notes at the low end.
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Feb 15, 2018 16:19
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So I'm doing a stupid and selling my guest room setup. Partly because I need money to turn that same room into a nursery, and partly because apparently nurseries aren't supposed to have big-fuckoff 2 channel setups. I was fine with it until just now when I realized that this is going to leave me without an amp that is able to adequately power my planar headphones. Can anyone recommend an affordable solution?
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Feb 15, 2018 18:29
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Don't sell, buy some lullabies on vinyl.
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Feb 15, 2018 18:45
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taqueso posted:Don't sell, buy some lullabies on vinyl. Oh, don't worry, baby will have a stereo. I'm gonna throw my Beovox S80.2's and MC120.2's in there with a Sansui quadraphonic amp. THE APPLES IN STEREO IN QUADRAPHONICS!
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Feb 15, 2018 18:50
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Waltzing Along posted:What are these? GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I was fine with it until just now when I realized that this is going to leave me without an amp that is able to adequately power my planar headphones. KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Feb 16, 2018 |
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Feb 16, 2018 18:32
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:They're special little feet that isolate your sub from the floor/room. By minimizing resonation with other stuff, it helps to both tighten the bass response and prevent you from pissing off your neighbors when you crank it up. I liked these so much I ended up buying a new subwoofer that would be compatible with them. Funny story. The guy only bought the turntable. It turns out that he was the guy I bought it from in the first place. So I've still got my HK Citation 11 and 12 for now. I was considering a Jotunheim, but that's still $400. which is more than I'm asking for the amp and preamp. However it would be totally sufficient if I used the balanced outputs. Plus, who doesn't want balanced inputs and outputs?
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Feb 16, 2018 20:50
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Is the Denon AVR-X2300W 7.2 receiver posted on the last page the thread go-to for one around that price? I have one of the thread go-tos circa 2008 in the Pioneer VSX-1018AH-K, but I'm thinking about getting an LG OLED C7P so I probably need a new receiver for 4K and Atmos, right? I have a 7.1 setup and a Windows HTPC with Kodi on it.
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Feb 16, 2018 20:53
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Full Circle posted:I use some big 2" sorbothane half spheres for my giant heavy speakers and some small 1" ones for my 3d printer and they work great. For some reason I thought these were a lot more expensive than they are. Now I just need to figure out how much my speakers weigh 
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Feb 16, 2018 20:55
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I'm looking to get a soundbar for my Sony XBR49X900E (or whatever the UK model is called, I don't remember off the top of my head) but all this stuff is new to me. I'm looking at a Sony HT-CT290 but I'm wondering about the difference between using ARC HDMI or a TOSLINK cable. I'm hesitant to use the ARC because the X900E only has two HDR capable HDMI ports (both of which I'm using) and one of them is the ARC. Any advice?
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Feb 17, 2018 00:59
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With ARC you'll get nice features like auto power and being able to use a single remote but if you don't have the ports you don't have the ports. The whole "only 2 4k/HDR ports" thing is one of the legitimate flaws with what's otherwise a really good TV.
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Feb 17, 2018 01:14
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Alright, I can live with that. Thanks.
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Feb 17, 2018 09:47
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My parents are going to be buying a new TV and most likely at some point in the near future a sound bar. I've convinced my dad not to because they have a very nice new-ish receiver (2 years ago) and speaker set but my mom hates the subwoofer so she'll eventually win  . Anyway, how do they hook up to TVs? They have a cable box and bluray player currently connected to the receiver, I'm assuming I'd connect those directly to the TV and then the TV would output via optical or something to the bar?
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Feb 19, 2018 01:19
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