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Panty Saluter posted:Not around here. You're lucky to find a half broken Sony on the high end
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Mar 7, 2018 09:24
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Not sure if this is the right thread but I have a set of Logitech Z623 speakers that have a cable I need to extend, here's a picture of it https://imgur.com/a/SRZov , it looks like a VGA plug?! Here's a direct link to Logitech's explanation which only lists the plug as "right speaker" which, predictably, doesn't help to google. https://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/speaker-system-z623 What is this speaker wire called and will I be able to buy a 1-2 foot extension cable for it without it loving something up?
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Mar 9, 2018 07:02
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Yeah, that looks like a DE-15 alright, you can extend that with a VGA extender cable.
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Mar 9, 2018 08:33
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It's a DB-15 cable. This cable has a review mentioning using it with the Z623 specifically.
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Mar 9, 2018 09:49
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It's DE-15, a DB size plug is wider and was more commonly used for 25-pin parallel port (and early 25-pin serial ports). Some fool started calling 9-pin ports "DB-9", probably unaware that the correct shell size designation is actually DE. It spread to the 15-pin DE-15 commonly used for VGA connections as well, where it is also just wrong, wrong, wrong. Yes, I'm an old-school PC nerd, what of it? 
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Mar 9, 2018 12:16
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I was about to finally settle on an order with everyones advice from my previous post, but I just opened Newegg and found this: https://www.newegg.com/promotions/n...jpg&icid=437458 How are these, if anyone has experience with them?: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=86-200-006&cm_sp=0306-0312-_-HomeTheaterMadness-_-86-200-006-_-NA Darius099 fucked around with this message at 03:53 on Mar 11, 2018 |
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Mar 11, 2018 01:34
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Panty Saluter posted:Are there nominal 8 ohm speakers that don't dip below 8 ohms at some point? How flimsy an amp do you have that can't handle a millisecond burst of 4 ohms? B&Ws new 700 series dip down to like 3 ohms IIRC.
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Mar 11, 2018 03:54
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Lots of speakers do, especially if they use a steeper slope crossover than first order (so most of them). I want to say my old Studio 20s would hit about 4 in the midbass and something like 27 in the upper midrange, just above the high pass cutoff. Unless you have a real POS amp it'll handle all that nonsense fine 
Panty Saluter fucked around with this message at 05:19 on Mar 11, 2018 |
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Mar 11, 2018 04:01
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My dad has a pair of old school Klipsch Cornwalls that IIRC he said were nominally 4 ohm (I think the newer ones are rated as 8 but not sure about the vintage ones?) so maybe they dip to like 2 or something. They didn't play nice with a lowish end Denon so he's been amping them for many years with a little 2 channel class D amp. They'd trip the circuit protection on the Denon multiple times during a movie. Could be the Denon was just hosed up though I guess, not sure how much he checked into that avenue. Pretty sure he actually sent it back to Denon and they said it was fine though. Every time I visit him he tells me that I get the Cornwalls in his will since I'm the only person in the fam that cares about audio reproduction. I just nod and say "yeah that's great" and don't mention that I have no real use for them and if I'm gonna pick something out to have around to remember Dad by it's not gonna be 200 pounds worth of speakers. bird with big dick fucked around with this message at 04:52 on Mar 11, 2018 |
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Mar 11, 2018 04:49
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Most Denons I've seen (unless you go super high end) aren't really happy driving a 4 ohm nominal load so I would expect that they would go into thermal protection. They aren't bad receivers but they aren't powerhouses by any stretch of the imagination. I have a pair of Definitive Tech StudioMonitor 350s. They are really odd speakers but absolutely amazing in the right situation. DefTech claims they are 8 ohm compatible but also say that if you have an impedance switch on your amp that you should choose 4 ohms. All I know is that when I ran them on my basic H/K receiver things got screechy real fast if I turned the volume up. Not hard clipping but probably getting there. When I paired them with an amp that is happy with even a 2 ohm load they really open up. They actually get fuller and less taxed sounding as you crank the volume up. It's almost the opposite of what you get with a lot of speakers. I only wish I had the kind of large space where I could run them wide open most of the time.
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Mar 11, 2018 05:28
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I recently purchased an LG OLED65B7A tv to replace my sharp 70” high def tv. I have my Denon AVR 1912 receiver hooked into the ARC HDMI port in the TV. So tonight I decided to check out the Amazon Prime series “Bosch”. I tuned to the Amazon Prime app in the TV, found the first episode of the first season, and chose it. The video was as expected, and the receiver switched into TV mode, but the audio was totally messed up, it kinda sounded like a little helicopter, really choppy, and none of it was actually understandable. I know that the 1912 can’t handle 4K video - the Blu Ray player has an hdmi port out to the TV as well as an audio-only hdmi port which I feed into the receiver. Do I need to replace my receiver to handle the audio output from the TV? It seems like the audio format is not recognized. I don’t have a real problem replacing the receiver - it’s pretty old - but if there’s a way around this, I’d rather not. Edit: my candidate for replacement is the Denon AVR-X3300W LongSack fucked around with this message at 06:24 on Mar 11, 2018 |
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Mar 11, 2018 06:20
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veiled boner fuel posted:My dad has a pair of old school Klipsch Cornwalls that IIRC he said were nominally 4 ohm (I think the newer ones are rated as 8 but not sure about the vintage ones?) so maybe they dip to like 2 or something. You can send them to me.
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Mar 11, 2018 13:08
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Darius099 posted:I was about to finally settle on an order with everyones advice from my previous post, but I just opened Newegg and found this: Please read my earlier comments around low end Klipsch speakers.
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Mar 12, 2018 05:16
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Not home audio system, but close enough. I have a boat, with speaker system and regularly entertain 8-10 guests on board. Our stereo needs to run on 12v and mounted to a panel so that generally means car stereo. I think a 50w or 100w stereo ought to be enough. It's not a wakeboarding power boat or anything. There's already a stereo in there, but it doesn't have Bluetooth. Right now i have a battery powered Bluetooth dongle, but it wears out after 4-6 hours and I'd like to integrate it into the main stereo unit. We're regularly on the water for 12 hours each weekend during the summer or staying on the boat overnight. Most aftermarket stereos look like they're designed to be sold to a 16 year old kid getting his first car. Can i get a recommendation for one that is good quality and has BT built in? There's so much crap on the market it's hard to make a good decision.
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Mar 16, 2018 18:13
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There's a car audio thread in AI that would probably be a better place to ask. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3520908
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Mar 16, 2018 18:16
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Hadlock posted:Not home audio system, but close enough. I always liked Eclipse’s designs, but I haven’t seriously shopped for a car stereo since I was a 16 year old kid in the 90s. But back then it was somber compared to Alpine/Pioneer etc...
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Mar 16, 2018 23:53
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Is there a reliable guide/website for soundbars? Unfortunately I'm a limited on space so a full surround system isn't really appropriate, but I'm about to get a new TV so I figure I might as well spend a little bit more for some nicer sound.
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Mar 20, 2018 16:10
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Big McHuge posted:Is there a reliable guide/website for soundbars? Unfortunately I'm a limited on space so a full surround system isn't really appropriate, but I'm about to get a new TV so I figure I might as well spend a little bit more for some nicer sound. The Wirecutter's guide is at least a place to start.
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Mar 20, 2018 16:14
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EDIT: nvm
Boz0r fucked around with this message at 12:15 on Mar 26, 2018 |
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Mar 26, 2018 12:11
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Does anybody have any ideas how I might mount speakers to the top of metal fence posts? You'd think this would pop some stuff up on Google but I can't seem to get a good lead.
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Mar 27, 2018 05:16
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PA speakers usually have a standard mounting hole on the bottom, which fits mounts like these: https://www.thomann.de/gb/millenium_multi_speaker_wallmount_msw1.htm?ref=search_rslt_speaker+mount_261050_7 It's basically just a 36mm pipe, sometimes with a plastic plug in the end. If you can weld a piece of that to the top of your fence poles, that would work. If your speakers don't have the mounting holes already, you can buy those as well, drill holes in the bottoms of the speakers and put them in yourself very easily.
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Mar 27, 2018 08:56
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Many/most outdoor speakers have a mounting bracket on them. Just drill some holes in your Fence post
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Mar 27, 2018 09:08
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A shop nearby has the Bluesound Pulse soundbar on sale, around 15% down. Has anyone tried it, and what other soundbars are good in the same price range?
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Mar 29, 2018 13:10
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Boz0r posted:A shop nearby has the Bluesound Pulse soundbar on sale, around 15% down. Has anyone tried it, and what other soundbars are good in the same price range? By all accounts it's pretty good but if you do that then if you want a sub or to do whole house you're stuck with their stuff which is pretty pricey. Everything I've read says it outperforms Sonos you just have to be willing to swallow the cost.
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Mar 29, 2018 15:20
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I tried the Powernode 2 and returned it for being dogshit. The app is pretty janky and the whole system relies on it. It doesn't have a volume knob, just awful touch controls, and the amp section itself is really bright and sibilant.
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Mar 29, 2018 22:59
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Just upgraded my tv to the Sony x900e and i need to upgrade my receiver. My speakers are the 5.1 Andrew Jones speakers, and I’ll be buying the extra I need for Atmos soon. I have a bunch of credit at Best Buy so I want to get the receiver there. I went in looking to get a Denon S730H, which is $400 in store, but a salesman there kept pushing me towards a Yamaha RX-A670, which is on sale for the same price. I’ve read the room correction of the Denon is better, though I honestly don’t know that I would even notice, and that Yamaha’s are more reliable. The Denon has HEOS but I’m not sure I would ever use it, the speakers are kind of pricey. e: I’m not limited to these two, if there’s some other one I can get at Best Buy I’m open to it, $500-ish limit catch22 fucked around with this message at 01:06 on Apr 15, 2018 |
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Apr 15, 2018 00:54
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Does anyone have any experience with XTZ subs? There is a used XTZ 99 W12.16 I am looking at, but I don't know if it's a decent sub or not. I mainly want to use it for watching movies and playing music, but not to loudly since I live in an apartment building. What price range would be a appropriate considering it is ~4 years old. They seem to have retailed for 500-580$ 4 years ago, and the guy is asking for ~450$, which seems quite pricy.
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Apr 15, 2018 14:05
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Get a used SVS instead?
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Apr 15, 2018 23:21
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If you want something ported, there's the Dayton Audio subs, those are cheap and great. If you want a sealed sub, I'm really enjoying my ASW610. It doesn't have the heft of a ported sub, but the control and punch are sublime. If you're into that.
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Apr 16, 2018 17:54
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I know soundbars get talked about a bit in this thread, thought I'd offer my 2 cents. My wife won a Yamaha YAS-107 soundbar at work as a prize and it's actually pretty nice. I have no complaints about the sound quality from it at all. We're moving so the 5.1 is going into storage until the new house is finished, so I'll see how I like it over the next few months, but we used it for 2 nights and I was very happy with it.
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Apr 16, 2018 22:55
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I have a 106, which is effectively the same thing. Ya, it’s really good for the price, and a huge improvement over my TV’s speakers. I initially hooked it up with optical, but that introduced an atrocious audio delay, so now it’s actually hooked up using the TV’s headphone output.
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Apr 17, 2018 05:12
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TheMadMilkman posted:I have a 106, which is effectively the same thing. Ya, it’s really good for the price, and a huge improvement over my TV’s speakers. Your TV probably has an audio return channel and HDMI-CEC, you should hook it up via HDMI and enjoy just using your TV remote. It should sound a lot better too when the soundbar is using its own DAC instead of the TVs.
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Apr 18, 2018 11:22
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Huh, guess I should have read the manuals more closely. I’ll look into that today. Also, the enter key on an AppleTV remote triggers the bass extension on the soundbar.
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Apr 18, 2018 16:15
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After recently upgrading our TV to a new shiny 4k Philips deal, we realised that we needed to get ourselves a newer receiver, in order to pass-through 4k and HDR. We ended up with the Yamaha RXV383, and a new sub (NS-SW100) to replace the lovely old passive one we had. I'm wondering how I should set the crossover (on the receiver) though? Our speakers are all listed here, and the sub's specs are here. I've seen places recommend just setting it to 80hz, but other places recommend different values. I don't really understand this level of AV stuff, so am here to ask: Considering my speakers stats, where should that crossover be placed? The YPAO automated calibration process set the crossover to 110hz, which sounds nice to me, but others say 80hz is more "correct".
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Apr 24, 2018 23:12
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The lower the crossover setting the less likely you'll be able to "localize" the subwoofer and the bass will sound like it's coming from the speakers. If I'm reading that correctly your speakers have like 3" drivers so 110 hz is probably reasonable [smaller woofers have trouble producing lower frequencies]. 80 hz for cones that small would be a stretch, I have my crossover set at 85 with much larger speakers.
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Apr 24, 2018 23:44
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I keep mine at 100 with a set of 5.25" fronts because I'm terrified of over excursion on them.
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Apr 24, 2018 23:51
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I am looking for recommendations on a pair of powered bookshelf or studio monitor speakers I could use for both my turntable (I already have a pre-amp) and as desktop PC speakers. I'm a little flexible on price but $300-350 is probably the max. The ability to add a sub later on would be a bonus, but wouldn't be make or break because the room I'm using it in is rather small. I saw recommendations for Mackie/Edifer a few pages back - the options in Mackie seem to be kind of limited at that price range but there are a ton of options for Edifer. Are there other brands I should consider? pocket pool fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Apr 26, 2018 |
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Apr 26, 2018 20:27
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JBL LSR 305 or 308s are pretty popular but they don't have much input flexibility or bluetooth. Maybe Kanto YU6 or YU4, they have a sub out. I haven't heard Edifiers but they get a lot of praise.
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Apr 26, 2018 20:32
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Are Audioengine A5+ worth considering? I guess that's a touch above what I said but they seem to be pretty well-reviewed and also flexible regarding inputs/expansion options.
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Apr 26, 2018 20:54
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pocket pool posted:Are Audioengine A5+ worth considering? I guess that's a touch above what I said but they seem to be pretty well-reviewed and also flexible regarding inputs/expansion options. They're decent for a desktop speaker. They don't measure great compared to the JBLs and run out of juice pretty quickly when pushed. If you want more options, I'd give Vanatoo a glance.
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Apr 26, 2018 21:05
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