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Gropes posted:Brought the SR400 home today, thanks again for the newbie help guys. felt cool cause you are cool. Now get ready for lots of attention. From dudes
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Apr 20, 2018 02:03
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Fauxtool posted:Now get ready for lots of attention. Gropes posted:Someone on a bike waved at me on my ride home from the dealer, felt cool Congrats man. Enjoy your bike.
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Apr 20, 2018 02:23
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What kinds of bikes are sprung for a 200lb rider out of the box? I assume cheap japanese bikes are out. My last bike was an FZ and it bounced around like a pogo stick.
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Apr 20, 2018 02:32
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A MIRACLE posted:What kinds of bikes are sprung for a 200lb rider out of the box? I assume cheap japanese bikes are out. My last bike was an FZ and it bounced around like a pogo stick. did you actually try adjusting the suspension, its super simple. Im 260 and have no issues on my fz
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Apr 20, 2018 02:53
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Fauxtool posted:did you actually try adjusting the suspension, its super simple. Im 260 and have no issues on my fz I cranked the preload a bit yeah. it could have just been in my head
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Apr 20, 2018 02:57
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A MIRACLE posted:What kinds of bikes are sprung for a 200lb rider out of the box? I assume cheap japanese bikes are out. My last bike was an FZ and it bounced around like a pogo stick. None of them.
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Apr 20, 2018 06:14
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Gropes posted:Someone on a bike waved at me on my ride home from the dealer, felt cool  The wave is one of the best parts of riding. Remember to wave often.When it comes to changing the oil in your bike, there's a good video tutorial here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ft1IkFZkJts
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Apr 20, 2018 09:27
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Collateral Damage posted:
I have to watch this every time it's posted.
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Apr 20, 2018 14:16
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Whole lotta people real scared of carbs and drum brakes itt. CV carbs solve the “when the weather changes the bike changes” complaint.
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Apr 20, 2018 14:48
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Whole lotta people real scared of carbs and drum brakes itt. Yeah, my 600 cc I4 struggles at altitude a bit, but has no discernible change in response to temperature or humidity.
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Apr 20, 2018 14:56
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Whole lotta people real scared of carbs and drum brakes itt. Only partly. A gulp of cold, dense morning air still puts an extra spring in its step.
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Apr 20, 2018 15:25
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Whole lotta people real scared of carbs and drum brakes itt. Carbs are easy when it's your bike and you only take them out once. They're a living nightmare when it's a 93 bandit 250 with 60,000km that's completely hosed (they all are) and just, like, needs a tune up bro and the plastic plunger housings are totally deformed, cost $200 each and the jetting is completely hosed because more fuel = better than so let's just buy the ones with the biggest number on them and arrrrggh.
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Apr 20, 2018 22:45
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Ehhhhh, Jets are easy to come by, and worse case, start from factory settings.
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Apr 21, 2018 02:05
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You can't start from scratch when the slides literally don't go up and down cause the housings are so warped. For some reason all the small 4 bangers have plastic housings.
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Apr 21, 2018 05:21
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I will say I do not gently caress with the keihins that Honda ran in the 70’s and 80’s that don’t have rubber diaphragms but instead have plastic pucks that slide up and down in the top chamber and always get hung up on the way up or down, perpetually loving your fuel mixture for one or more cylinders. gently caress those carbs forever. Rubber diaphragms for life. The pucks were clearly a case of either accountants intervening or Erik Buell-like fixing of a thing that wasn’t broke E: wait, are we taking about the same thing? I don’t think anyone but Honda used those. Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 13:50 on Apr 21, 2018 |
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Apr 21, 2018 13:48
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:I will say I do not gently caress with the keihins that Honda ran in the 70’s and 80’s that don’t have rubber diaphragms but instead have plastic pucks that slide up and down in the top chamber and always get hung up on the way up or down, perpetually loving your fuel mixture for one or more cylinders. No, suzuki used the same type of keihin with the plastic puck in, like, everything in the 80s, and in the Bandit into the 90s. I'm restoring a PO-raped 1984 cavalcade and 1 of 4 slides returns to the bottom in a reasonable amount of time. One of them, I pushed up on Wednesday and it's moved a quarter inch in the last couple of days. It's not siezed; I think the housing is warped. And, your perversity aside, I don't think anyone is particularly "scared" of drums or carbs. Just, why bother with all the extra effort of a product that performs AT BEST only as good as a half-assed maintained alternative? Yeah, "When replacing everything that needs to be and greasing everything that needs to be and adjusting everything (not easy to get right with the dual leading linkages) then I've always gotten pretty consistent stopping out of them." sure. But with disc brakes "I throw pads at them occasionally and I think the fluid may have been changed and bled at some point in the bike's history." and they work as well as the best-set-up drums. Why search that out unless that kind of fiddly mechanical tinkering appeals to you? Why settle for that option if equivalently-priced alternatives exist? For carbs, sure "Jets are easy to come by, and worse case, start from factory settings." but with most EFI stuff, do a TPS reset and you're back to baseline. Or just unplug the battery for half an hour. It's a much more complex system, but it is far more simple to maintain. Carbs are mechanically simple devices that are very involved mechanically to maintain; just getting access to the bits you need to adjust can take a significant amount of time. Sure, every step is very simple, but why go to that effort in the first place?
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Apr 21, 2018 15:23
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Why bother? Because if you don’t bother, you miss out on some awesome bikes? Maybe I’m weird but I choose my bikes based on the bike I want to ride, not on the technology it has or doesn’t have. I have one bike with fuel injection and disk brakes, and 3 without. In the instance of the SV, I chose the later model because if I have the choice I’ll go with newer tech, but if only carbed SV’s existed, I’d have one of those. I ride an Elite 250 with drum brakes and a carb because I like the scooter itself. The tech is secondary and is perfectly functional. Same with the RV90. I dunno, maybe I’m weird, but the individual pieces of technology matter less to me than the overall bike.
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Apr 21, 2018 16:58
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FWIW if we're talking engaging, fun bikes to ride I'd rather have good carbs than lovely efi just for the smoothness. So I agree.
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Apr 21, 2018 21:10
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Slavvy posted:FWIW if we're talking engaging, fun bikes to ride I'd rather have good carbs than lovely efi just for the smoothness. So I agree. lovely EFI? Did somebody say Griso?! No seriously, I love my Griso but holy poo poo the fueling could use some help.
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Apr 23, 2018 02:46
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Put my stator back in, this time wrapped wiring in some high temp silicone tape (thanks thread). I am planning to reuse the gasket as it's in reasonably good shape; I'm pretty sure it's new from when the PO 'serviced' the stator. What sort of goop do I want for adhering it?
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Apr 23, 2018 09:03
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Put my stator back in, this time wrapped wiring in some high temp silicone tape (thanks thread). If it’s not broken, I just smear some oil around the contact parts (so, all of it) and then put it back on.
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Apr 23, 2018 12:56
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I did my first singletrack yesterday. My ttr125le forks bottomed out quite a few times on big roots and poo poo. Based on racetech's website I'm only one tick off the recommended front/rear spring rate -- is it even worth upgrading that stuff? I mean it's a dinkyass bike, not really meant for gnarly woods so I'm not sure the upgrading will really help.
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Apr 23, 2018 14:00
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Maybe stick some preload/compression damping in it first? Assuming you can add preload/compression on those forks
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Apr 23, 2018 14:45
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Slavvy posted:FWIW if we're talking engaging, fun bikes to ride I'd rather have good carbs than lovely efi just for the smoothness. So I agree. Any EFi on bikes between oh.. 1984 and what.. 2010? Even then the snatch has been pretty significant on anything I've ridden. (hell, even driven...)
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Apr 23, 2018 15:13
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Nerobro posted:Any EFi on bikes between oh.. 1984 and what.. 2010? Even then the snatch has been pretty significant on anything I've ridden. (hell, even driven...) I think you'd also get some agreement on early ABS as opposed to modern implementations that don't use a potato as a controller. Personally, my newest acquisition has no ABS at all, in fact it has a single disc front brake and a drum in the rear... and carburetors. It is only by His redeeming grace that I am speaking to you, as the bike burst into flames as I attempted to slow for a traffic light this morning and touched the Layer Dan lever - thankfully I was thrown clear by the explosion.
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Apr 23, 2018 17:40
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M42 posted:I did my first singletrack yesterday. My ttr125le forks bottomed out quite a few times on big roots and poo poo. Based on racetech's website I'm only one tick off the recommended front/rear spring rate -- is it even worth upgrading that stuff? I mean it's a dinkyass bike, not really meant for gnarly woods so I'm not sure the upgrading will really help. I'd try some heavier fork oil first. Putting money into that bike's suspension is kind of a waste.
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Apr 23, 2018 18:46
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M42 posted:I did my first singletrack yesterday. My ttr125le forks bottomed out quite a few times on big roots and poo poo. Based on racetech's website I'm only one tick off the recommended front/rear spring rate -- is it even worth upgrading that stuff? I mean it's a dinkyass bike, not really meant for gnarly woods so I'm not sure the upgrading will really help. https://www.amazon.com/BBR-Motorsports-Heavy-Duty-Springs-650-YTR-1205/dp/B000GZL16G
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Apr 23, 2018 19:03
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velocross posted:I'd try some heavier fork oil first. Putting money into that bike's suspension is kind of a waste. Check and play around with the fork oil level. The air gap at the top of the forks acts as a bump stop. You can also play around with preload, if they're not adjustable you can either cut some temporary spacers out of PVC pipe (clean off all the bits from cutting it so they don't get in your fork oil), or use washers. Try between 1/4" and 1/2" to start. Then after getting it dialed in you can replace the current spacers with longer ones, or just say gently caress it and leave the PVC in there. I also would not spend money on those forks. Get one of these if you don't have one already: https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0121-Fork-Level/dp/B000GZPCYI
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Apr 23, 2018 20:01
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I looped the grom a few weeks ago, and now the gas gauge reads empty at 60 miles, instead of 130 or whatever. I know there is a float in there, on a sensor, but I cannot figure out what has gone wrong. Its a useful feature I'd like to get working again, plus it's annoying to have the low fuel indicator start flashing at half a tank. Does anyone have experience with these? Is there any way to reset or recalibrate it?
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Apr 23, 2018 20:46
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Coydog posted:I looped the grom a few weeks ago, and now the gas gauge reads empty at 60 miles, instead of 130 or whatever. I know there is a float in there, on a sensor, but I cannot figure out what has gone wrong. Its a useful feature I'd like to get working again, plus it's annoying to have the low fuel indicator start flashing at half a tank. You need to unwind the fuel sensor by looping it the other way.
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Apr 23, 2018 20:54
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That might actually be true. Tough to tell from the diagram but it looks like the float might be able to flip around the wrong way:
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Apr 23, 2018 21:05
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Take the tank off, take the float out and test it. Or wait for more people on the internet to speculate wildly, that works too.
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Apr 23, 2018 21:09
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Ola posted:You need to unwind the fuel sensor by looping it the other way. RadioPassive posted:That might actually be true. Tough to tell from the diagram but it looks like the float might be able to flip around the wrong way:  It never even occured to me that this could happen. That's probably it, and a very good observation. I guess a tank removal is in my future, since it seems like an easy fix.Slavvy posted:Take the tank off, take the float out and test it. Don't be a oval office. But yeah im gonna do that. I just don't know anything about this and its my first bike with a sensor so I'm not sure what is what.
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Apr 23, 2018 21:16
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Oh ok. Well the little toilet float part has a sweeper attached to it. As the arm moves up and down with the fuel level, the sweeper moves along a little rheostat track and that alters the voltage reaching the gauge. In my experience they have little stops so they can't fall off the track like what's being suggested but weird poo poo does happen; perhaps the impact bent the arm slightly so it's bottoming out on the track too soon. Test by sticking your multimeter across the appropriate wires, set it to measure resistance and sweep the arm back and forth. You should see the resistance steadily increase/decrease from one end to the other.
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Apr 23, 2018 21:21
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My Guzzi V7 has started to do something odd. I'm hoping that someone can point me in the right direction as to what I should be checking out. This has only happened a few times, but it occasionally dies during warm up. My usual routine is to start it up and let it idle while I put on my helmet & gloves and all that. Sometimes, after I do that, as soon as I sit down on the bike it dies and fully shuts off. It has happened when I sit on the bike and bring up the kickstand. It has happened when I'm rolling the bike in neutral to the front of the garage. I've also had it happen immediately after starting it up when the bike settled further onto its kickstand. And today it died while I was out getting lunch. Today was the strangest one (and why I'm posting this) because the electronics rebooted, but the engine kept running. This hasn't happened when I'm actively riding, it's always right after starting it up and I could be filling in a pattern where there isn't one, but it seems like it's the first jostle to the bike after startup that triggers it. My thought was maybe the kickstand sensor is acting up, but I don't know that that would fit with the weird electric system reboot that didn't kill the engine today. And I lubed up that area this weekend so that everything down there should be moving around smoothly. The bike is about 2 years old (9k miles) and is on the stock battery. I haven't modded it much at all, but I did add some heated grips this winter. I rode it all winter though, so it hasn't been sitting around killing the battery. Is this as simple as needing a new battery though?
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Apr 23, 2018 21:55
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Fender posted:Guzzi V7 has started to do something odd. 
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Apr 23, 2018 22:07
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Fender posted:My thought was maybe the kickstand sensor is acting up, but I don't know that that would fit with the weird electric system reboot that didn't kill the engine today. And I lubed up that area this weekend so that everything down there should be moving around smoothly. Bypass or eliminate the kickstand switch and see if the problem goes away. Just throwing a battery at this probably won't do anything.
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Apr 23, 2018 22:49
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Fender posted:My Guzzi V7 has started to do something odd. I'm hoping that someone can point me in the right direction as to what I should be checking out. Sever. Serious answer: sounds like a bad earth or a dodgy main relay. But being what it is it could be literally anything up to and including not enough sherbet in the miniature beach ball controlling rectifier output.
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Apr 24, 2018 04:07
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Fender posted:My Guzzi V7 has started to do something odd. I'm hoping that someone can point me in the right direction as to what I should be checking out.  (I remember your restoration thread from a few years ago)
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Apr 24, 2018 08:22
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| # ? Jun 4, 2024 04:55 |
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M42 posted:I did my first singletrack yesterday. My ttr125le forks bottomed out quite a few times on big roots and poo poo. Based on racetech's website I'm only one tick off the recommended front/rear spring rate -- is it even worth upgrading that stuff? I mean it's a dinkyass bike, not really meant for gnarly woods so I'm not sure the upgrading will really help. Ride it into the ground. If you're really riding that terrain often, save all that money and buy a better bike.
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Apr 25, 2018 22:29
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