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Mr. Neutron posted:What's the best budget Z370 mb? i like the mini-itx one with wifi
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Nov 18, 2018 08:11
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teagone posted:What ram/motherboard do you have? Is your ram b-die? https://pcpartpicker.com/b/cJRJ7P The RAM is rated for 3600mhz, but the board QVL list calls out that particular memory as 3466 which is the max speed the board supports. It works. Set the XMP profile, then manually set the clock to 3466. I can eke a bit more out of some sub timings, but it doesn't make much of a difference.
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Nov 18, 2018 08:49
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teagone posted:What ram/motherboard do you have? Is your ram b-die? I run G.Skill Trident Z DDR4, 2x8GB, 3466MHz, CL16 (F4-3466C16D-16GTZKW) on Asus Rog Crosshair VI Hero. I've seen Crosshair VII boards dropping in price recently, which can be a great premium choice for 2700x. Buildzoid called the VRM section of that board "Massive overkill" so it must be good.
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Nov 18, 2018 10:37
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alex314 posted:I run G.Skill Trident Z DDR4, 2x8GB, 3466MHz, CL16 (F4-3466C16D-16GTZKW) on Asus Rog Crosshair VI Hero. I've seen Crosshair VII boards dropping in price recently, which can be a great premium choice for 2700x. Buildzoid called the VRM section of that board "Massive overkill" so it must be good. Massive overkill to the point you don't need VRM heatsinks, and the board doesn't have them. It's a "10 phase" board (really 5 phases with a doubler, but i digress), that is pushing 60A per phase. At full tilt with a massively overclocked beyond all safe limits Ryzen 7 2700x the VRMs are generating like 13w of heat, they're loving ice cold. The board is pretty future proof. I could see power problems in the future for some of the dodgier AM4 B450 boards out there, they'll keep a 2600 or 2600X happy, but what happens when the 3600X and 4600X happen? His only complaint about the board was how loving busy the bottom part of the board is with switches and headers.
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Nov 18, 2018 12:05
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So I'm finally going to get to upgrade my PC come the end of December. The PC I'm using right now I built in like 2010 or 2011 I think. Its a i5-750, Radeon 5770, 4GB ram, and a 1TB hdd. So no matter what I end up getting it should be a huge improvement over my current system. In starting to plan out this build I've ran into things I'm hoping y'all can help me with though. This PC would be mostly for games and very light productivity software (MS office basically). Currently I'm on a 1080P display, but in the coming 6 months or so I'm planning on upgrading to either a 4K display or one of those 1440P ultra widescreen deals. 1. I really can't decide if I should go AMD or Intel. I'm kinda leaning toward a Ryzen 2700X as I like that AMD has committed to support the AM4 socket for a while, so that gives me a easy upgrade path. Also from what I can tell the cooler the 2700X comes with is pretty decent and that would be nice if I decide to not go with an AIO cooler. I'm also looking at the i5-9600K. The CPU itself is cheaper, though I figure by the time you add in a cooler and needing to buy a more expensive Z series chipset motherboard (if i'm getting an unlocked CPU I'm going to want to OC it) the price kinda balances out. The i5 looks like it does a bit better in games, the Ryzen has much better multi-core performance and an upgrade path. 2. Looking as SSDs I see they've gotten way cheaper. I've seen 1TB Samsung 860 evos are about the same price for either M2 or a standard SATA drive. Is there any real reason to not just get the M2 version? Are the Samsung SSDs still considered to be the ones to get? 3. And lastly I was watching some case reviews on youtube and my wife was watching a few over my shoulder. She saw one with all the gaudy RGB junk on it and now wants me to build a computer that "lights up like a rainbow like that guys does." I did the whole light up computer thing before with cold cathode lights back in the early 2000s and ended up hating it, but gotta keep the wife happy right? Plus after I told her that RGB stuff would cost more she said I could spend more to do that if I needed, so hey extra money in the budget  . Anyway after looking into it some there seem to be three main RGB ecosystems, MSI with Mystic lights, Asus with Aura, and Corsair with whatever theirs is called. Is there any way to get their stuff to play nice with each other or is the only choices to buy into one ecosystem or run multiple RGB software? Which one has the most support?Thanks for the help everyone. It's hard trying to get caught up on one the stuff I've missed over the past few years.
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Nov 18, 2018 14:09
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katka posted:So I'm finally going to get to upgrade my PC come the end of December. The PC I'm using right now I built in like 2010 or 2011 I think. Its a i5-750, Radeon 5770, 4GB ram, and a 1TB hdd. So no matter what I end up getting it should be a huge improvement over my current system. In starting to plan out this build I've ran into things I'm hoping y'all can help me with though. Intel i5 and i7 chips are generally "faster" in games, but this is only relevant at lower resolutions and the difference vanishes pretty much entirely as soon as you go past 1080p at insane framerates. So for instance, I have one of those 1080p/240 Hz monitors which pretty much forces me to go to Intel in order to feed the highest number of frames to the GPU and get the closest to that 240 Hz peak refresh rate. At 1440p / 144-165 Hz a Ryzen 2700x will deliver 100% of the gaming performance of an Intel CPU but for a considerably lower total cost, and in more heavily threaded productivity it handily beats lower core count Intel CPUs. There isn't really a reason not to get a m.2 version, but keep in mind m.2 comes in two flavors: SATA and PCIe modes, SATA mode comes with all the same limits as a 2.5" drive. PCIe/NVMe drives on the other hand use PCI express which has lower latency and 5 times the bandwidth. A SATA m.2 card will top off at 550 MB/sec for a high end one just like the 2.5" drive, while the NVMe/PCIe version could approach 3000MB/sec. As for RGB hell, if you want to sync all the LEDs together it would make your life a lot easier to buy the major components from the same vendor. The fans and light strips for cases are a little more forgiving though, because they plug in to addressable headers on the motherboard that can be controlled by the same software that controls the motherboards own LEDs. But for something like a corsair closed loop cooler I don't know if it can sync up with a motherboard header or not, honestly I'd just avoid an AIO with RGB in that situation instead of having to deal with more complication.
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Nov 18, 2018 14:47
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If my Psu has 2 cpu 12v cables available (2 cables with a split 8 pin connector each), is there any stability benefit in hooking up the 8 pin and a 4 pin - or should I just go with a single 8 pin ? See Fig. 2, left option or right option ?
Hammerstein fucked around with this message at 15:47 on Nov 18, 2018 |
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Nov 18, 2018 15:44
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Hammerstein posted:If my Psu has 2 cpu 12v cables available (2 cables with a split 8 pin connector each), is there any stability benefit in hooking up the 8 pin and a 4 pin - or should I just go with a single 8 pin ? See Fig. 2, left option or right option ? If the motherboard has an 8 pin and a 4 pin it won't hurt anything to connect them both and some motherboards may require you to, but if the motherboard only has one connector then that's totally normal.
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Nov 18, 2018 17:04
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Forgive me, but I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around RAM compatibility. For reference, I'm looking at the MSI B450M Mortar motherboard. Its QVL is here. I was originally recommended a Patriot Viper 4 3400 kit, but that's not on the QVL. There are other Patriot Viper series kits, including these two 3200 kits. According to Patriot's marketing info, the RGB series is their top-of-the-line variety. Why would it be considerably less than the 4 series? Should I just not worry about using RAM over 3000 and simply go with this G.Skill 3000 kit?
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Nov 18, 2018 17:34
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Sometimes they haven't tested it yet, sometimes they tested it and it failed. The only thing you can really do is pick one from the list. The corsair vengeance range seems well represented there, so that'd be the higher-end pick to go for.
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Nov 18, 2018 17:43
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Stickman posted:The new system is certainly an upgrade. Some suggestions: What case would you recommend? It seems like the Define Mini C would make everything be a tight fit. I want to get a case where I can manage the cables and have everything look clean. May even go to the point were all the colors match but not sure about that one yet. Fixit fucked around with this message at 19:08 on Nov 18, 2018 |
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Nov 18, 2018 19:03
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If I'm upgrading my graphics card from a 770 -> 1080, will I need to deal with installing new drivers or am I good to just plug it in and go?
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Nov 18, 2018 20:36
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interrodactyl posted:If I'm upgrading my graphics card from a 770 -> 1080, will I need to deal with installing new drivers or am I good to just plug it in and go? I upgraded from a 970 to a 2080 and people said I should clear the drivers first, but I didn't and had no problems. Then I cleared the drivers and reinstalled them anyway  I guess what I'm saying is who cares
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Nov 18, 2018 21:03
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interrodactyl posted:If I'm upgrading my graphics card from a 770 -> 1080, will I need to deal with installing new drivers or am I good to just plug it in and go? Only if you have problems. In my case I went from a 980ti to a 2080, I did need to reinstall the drivers to fix a frame rate issue in a few games, but it displayed just fine, which was weird.
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Nov 18, 2018 21:49
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It's the same driver file/package. When you boot the machine with the new card in, it will install the driver it needs from the same package. That said a clean install takes about 3minutes (you don't need to do the removal process) so there's no reason not to.
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Nov 18, 2018 23:06
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I'm really torn about if I should upgrade or not. I don't do much other than play games at 1080p, so I'm not sure how much of an improvement I'll get from a new setup. The only game my current rig struggles with is SQUAD, which is early access and not well optimized, and I think just giving my current setup a little more ram might do the trick but now I've kind of got the upgrade bug anyhow. My current setup is an i5-4460, 8GB ram and a Radeon RX 470 4GB which I would swap out for a Ryzen R5 2600 and 16GB ram but I'm unsure if it's worth the price of the upgrade versus the performance gain I'd see. fat bossy gerbil fucked around with this message at 23:20 on Nov 18, 2018 |
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Nov 18, 2018 23:14
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Fixit posted:What case would you recommend? It seems like the Define Mini C would make everything be a tight fit. I want to get a case where I can manage the cables and have everything look clean. May even go to the point were all the colors match but not sure about that one yet. I don't have personal experience with either case, but most reviews + goon testimonials make the Mini C sound like a fantastic case with easy cable management, just not the clearance for a D15 + tall RAM. If you want to go the Mini C route, you might try a different cooler - the Thermalright Le Grand Macho RT should fit and has similar performance to the D15 and probably looks nicer through the window, too. If you absolutely want that clean aesthetic, though, you can't beat AIO coolers like the Corsair H100i Pro or one of it's RGB variants. The Mini C can mount 240mm radiators either as a top exhaust or front intake. Stickman fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Nov 18, 2018 |
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Nov 18, 2018 23:24
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I have not used the mini c but I just finished a build in a Nano S which from the look of it, is very similar to the mini c, just smaller. The case was fantastic to work with I'm, with well thought out cable management and quality construction. I used a Be!quiet dark rock 4 and it fit with 0 modifications (just had to use low profile ram as this was an itx board)
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Nov 19, 2018 00:25
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Just built that system I posted about earlier in the Mini C and I loved it (I have a Define R5 now, the size is a nice midground I think). I didn't feel like the case was too small to build in at all (GTX 1070ti and D15S for the cooler). I had initially purchased the U14S which turned out to cover the first PCI-E slot. Using the second slot in a micro atx case didn't seem like a good idea, but the D15S fit great. Only thing I didn't really like about the cable management, and this is mostly due to the size of the case and not having room for a dedicated drive cage, but putting drives down in the bottom front means you most likely need to cover them with other cables. Not the biggest deal since undoing the straps is so easy if I ever need to get in there - that's just the only place I saw that felt cramped. dedian fucked around with this message at 02:22 on Nov 19, 2018 |
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Nov 19, 2018 02:20
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imafknninja posted:Really getting an itch to build a new PC lately - I haven't done so in more than 5 years. At the start of 2016 I bought a laptop (i7 @ 2.6 GHz with a GTX 950M) because I figured that I was pretty much done with gaming, but then I got addicted to Fortnite which my laptop can only run at around ~70 fps on average. I want to double that to match my 144 hz monitor, and also want to be able to play through my Steam backlog on very pretty settings. Additionally, I am a software engineer by day, so I will be using the PC for some personal projects. Just a follow-up: I finished my build last night/today  it's not quite the same as listed above - see here for the updated version. I felt as prepared as I could have been, but still ran into some issues:1) The cables supplied with the Corsair 600W SFX PSU were too short to actually reach the necessary spots, so I had to end up buying some cable extensions. They match the new H200i black/white case, so it's okay. 2) I switched my AIO choice to a Kraken X52, entirely expecting that it would fit, but it turns out that my GPU was much longer than anticipated, so I had to return the AIO - not, but once, but twice - first for the X42, which was still too big, then for the M22. I am leaning towards setting this into a push/pull config to compensate for this unexpected constraint. Is that worth it with 120mm fans? 3) Man, building in a mITX case is hard! My hands aren't huge, but it still took many tries to get some of this stuff right. 4) I bent one of my CPU_FAN pins  the AIO is plugged into AIO_PUMP pins, so I avoid the issue for now.With that being said, I'm overall very happy with the build. The 2700x is so drat responsive, nothing seems hard for it. I'm also impressed with the Vega 56 - just too bad it's such a huge card that it blocks my AIOs! And the Asus mobo has the best bios I've ever used. On top of the Nzxt case/AIO and GSkill RAM looking great. Finally I can give my Steam backlog the treatment it deserves
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Nov 19, 2018 03:49
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Alright, I think I've ironed it all out after going through the mobo's QVL in detail to find a decent price/performance point for the RAM. I'm going with the mid-ATX case because it's cheaper for whatever reason. Anything I should tweak or be aware of with this set of parts? PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor ($159.99 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-L9a-AM4 33.84 CFM CPU Cooler ($39.90 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI - B450M MORTAR Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($79.99 @ Newegg Business) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($157.30 @ Amazon) Storage: Crucial - MX500 500 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($74.89 @ OutletPC) Video Card: *EVGA - GeForce GTX 1070 Ti 8 GB GAMING Video Card ($379.89 @ OutletPC) Case: NZXT - H500 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ Amazon) Total: $961.95
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Nov 19, 2018 04:43
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I'm finalizing the parts list for my Media/Storage/Plex server upgrades and have narrowed it down to these two motherboards that'll be used with a Ryzen 3 2200G: MSI B450M Pro-M2 https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813144198 ($64.99 from Amazon) and MSI B450M Gaming Plus https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813144195 ( Both boards have the same memory QVL; I'll be adding 16GB of DDR4-3200 RAM. I don't plan on getting a discrete GPU as the 2200G's Vega graphics will be fine for any light gaming that might be done on it via a Steam Link. The PCIe x16 slot will have an LSI SAS controller in it anyways. Does it really matter which board I get? I might do a light OC on the iGPU, but leave the CPU speed stock using the stock HSF. teagone fucked around with this message at 07:30 on Nov 19, 2018 |
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Nov 19, 2018 07:21
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About 10 months ago, I was on the fence of buying a new system but I waited for the "new" nvida GPU and Intel CPU iterations and wanted to skip the 1xxx GPUs and 7xxx and 8xxx CPUs. While my my current rig (980 TI, i7-6700K OC 4,3 GHZ , 16 GB DDR4 RAM 2666) worked fine for about 3,5 years but now at it's limit once I started WoW Multiboxing and OBS streaming and newest games like Battlefield V rip quadcore CPUs assunder. Assassins Creed Odyssey at 1440p Ultra settings tank my system down to 45-50 avg fps as well and the new Metro Game and the Division 2 in spring 2019 will be just more and new games to let a fps enthusiasts heart bleed. So, this is my what I need for the years in gaming and streaming: - Playing on 27" - 2560*1440 with G-Sync - I prefer maximum gfx settings all the time, so my system has to push 1440p on Ultra Settings (yes, I am THAT guy, that loves the gfx sliders maxed) - I might me upgrading to a 34" curved panel in 1 year because of Multiboxing, so the GPU has to push frames on a 3440*1440 solution and Ultra Settings = near 4K resolution demand - I will be playing WoW Multiboxing with 5-8 instances. I use IS Boxer that recommends 1 dedicated and exclusive native/physical CPU core and 2 GB RAM per WoW instance to run without compromise - The system has to work with WoW Multiboxing, OBS recording and OBS streaming as well. OBS is CPU+RAM ressources hungry - I work with Bandicam and Bandicut as well and will use Renderings/Video Software soon - on top of that I want to use the Reshade filters in all games (if the clients allow that injections, not all do), that usually costs another 10-15 % fps - never mechanical HDs again, I have 2 SSD in my system and it is such a QoL improvement, so SSDs are set. - I love all visual tech stuff and fell in love with the latest raytracaing videos of BF V the last days My aim for gaming at 1440p at ultra settings for the newest games plus streaming and WoW multiboxing plus the option to allow playing on a future 34" Display 3440*1440 demands the fastest gaming system possible right now, and that's where the stupid expensive combination of i9-9900K and the 2080Ti is picked. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i9-9900K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($1299.00 @ Walmart) CPU Cooler: Corsair - H150i PRO 47.3 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($169.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Asus - ROG MAXIMUS XI CODE ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($349.99 @ B&H) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance RGB Pro 32 GB (4 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($418.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung - 970 Pro 512 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($177.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung - 860 Pro 2 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($587.94 @ Amazon) Video Card: Zotac - GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB GAMING AMP Video Card ($1389.99 @ B&H) Case: Corsair - Crystal 570X RGB ATX Mid Tower Case ($129.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: SeaSonic - PRIME Ultra Platinum 850 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($179.90 @ Amazon) Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($98.89 @ OutletPC) Case Fan: Corsair - Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition (2-Pack) 62.74 CFM 120mm Fans ($27.19 @ OutletPC) Total: $4829.85 The 9900k is more like 700 Euro over here, so far beyond that partpicker price by the way! My questions: - 4x8 RAM blocks oder 2x16? Is this even important and/or a noticable difference? - I want to oc the 9900K to stable 4,9 GHz allcore, so a Hydro solution is set. The H150i gets good feedback from the oc community. Anyone of you with current H150i pro experience and /or 9900k oc? - I was thinking about 64GB RAM, but often read that it was "overkill" and might lead to "problems" in games. 32 GB RAM would be the sweet and futureproof spot? - A gaming buddy told me 650W would already be enough for my planned config, but I choose 850W anyway, because for slight hope and possibility of nvlink/SLI ressurrection. The question is will 850W still be enough then? Opinions would really be appreciated
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Nov 19, 2018 08:06
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So my daughter has an old Shuttle SH67 with an I3 3220 in it that she has been using for minecraft, sims, roblox, etc... she is now trying to take over my computer to play overwatch. It has a 300w powersupply in it, are there any graphics cards that would be ok for it like a 1050ti or am I just screwed and need to make a whole new pc for her to play on? I can upgrade the cpu through a local second hand store to a I7 3820 to jazz it up some more.
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Nov 19, 2018 08:13
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Mr.PayDay posted:- I want to oc the 9900K to stable 4,9 GHz allcore, so a Hydro solution is set. The H150i gets good feedback from the oc community. Anyone of you with current H150i pro experience and /or 9900k oc? Someone posted in the Intel thread recently about that combo CPU/AIO and their 5ghz all core overclock. Could try asking there?
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Nov 19, 2018 08:24
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Mr.PayDay posted:Opinions would really be appreciated If I was you I‘d take a look at Threadripper or even X299. Hyperthreading is slowly going away and (in my opinion based on recent news) can no longer be trusted to stay „safe“ over the next few years, even in a consumer setting. Games are becoming increasingly more multithreaded (iirc even WoW is switching to a new renderer in one of the next patches). Running 8 instances of that on what may well be a 8C/8T CPU in the future won’t be pleasant. Turing makes sense in your case because the video encoder is noticeably improved over Pascal.
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Nov 19, 2018 08:29
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Gom Jabbar posted:So my daughter has an old Shuttle SH67 with an I3 3220 in it that she has been using for minecraft, sims, roblox, etc... she is now trying to take over my computer to play overwatch. It has a 300w powersupply in it, are there any graphics cards that would be ok for it like a 1050ti or am I just screwed and need to make a whole new pc for her to play on? I can upgrade the cpu through a local second hand store to a I7 3820 to jazz it up some more. Most likely, so long as you make sure that the 1050 Ti isn't an overclocked version that requires a separate PCIe power connector (6-pin or 8-pin). Those cards will have something like "6-pin power connector" listed in their specifications, but it's really only a few cards that have them - most will be fine. Without that extra power draw, it will most likely be fine but you'll be relatively close to the power limit of the PSU. If you have issues gaming, you should be able to under-power the card using software like MSI Afterburner to lower the power limit. This MSI single-fan 1050 Ti is currently the cheapest new card ($155 after rebate). It might run a little louder and hotter than the two-fan versions, but it should be totally adequate for your daughter's purposes (and will most certainly fit in a Shuttle). You might be able to save $40-50 bidding on used ebay auctions - if you go that route you'll want an EVGA or MSI for the transferable warranty (probably 1.5+ years remaining), don't buy any cards that ship from out of the country, and double-check that the card doesn't require an extra power connector. Stickman fucked around with this message at 08:56 on Nov 19, 2018 |
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Nov 19, 2018 08:53
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Mr.PayDay posted:Opinions would really be appreciated My suggested edits: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/R9924q ASUS' high-end boards aren't good this generation. Buildzoid called them out for cheaping out on their VRMs. Gigabyte, however, really went all-in power-wise this generation, and the "Master" board will likely end up being my runner-up if EVGA doesn't get the Z390 DARK out by 12/15. It's just a solid board - the slightly-cheaper "Designare" board has twin 40Gb/sec Thunderbolt ports and a little less in the VRM department. As for the SSDs, I went with the "MyDigitalSSD" stripe of the drives I've recommended to you, but the IOPS figures on these new Phison E11 NVMe drives are really impressive. They're not as good as Optane, but they're damned close, and way cheaper than the Samsung Pro drives - the 1920GB is a little slower than the 960GB, though - so you might think of going with twin 960s and a 2.5" SATA SSD for a scratch drive. That Corsair case looks a bit dated, so I recommended the Lian Li O11 case - it's enormous, plenty of room for expansion and showing off, and you can offset-mount the 360mm radiator. Feel free to go with a cheaper version of it and kit it out with your own RGB fans, since the ones that are likely to be enclosed probably won't be the best available. I think there's a slightly more expensive version that has tempered glass, if that's important to you. If Zotac has better EU coverage than they do US, then go with them. If not, go with EVGA - I've never heard anyone complain about their EMEA coverage. I also changed you over to a 2x16 kit, since why populate all your slots when you can have the option to drop in more down the line? Also, snag Win10 Pro for cheaper through SA-Mart. And...congrats on speccing out a computer more expensive than mine, I guess? Eames has a semi-decent point, though - the 9800X is due out in about a week and a half, and you can get your hands on an X299 DARK for only a *slightly* exorbitant amount of money these days. Just remember if you *do* go with the X299, it's a quad-channel board, so you will need a 4xWhatever kit. Stick strictly to the QVL sheet on an X299, too. EDIT: Disregard my recommendation on the AORUS Master, Buildzoid doesn't like the VRM: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6J7qnr0YNH8 He does say it's better than the ASUS Maximus Hero and Taichi Ultimate, though - and still says the Master is the "best balanced" Z390 board...keep in mind it's still nearly $300. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 10:43 on Nov 19, 2018 |
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Nov 19, 2018 09:02
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Gom Jabbar posted:So my daughter has an old Shuttle SH67 with an I3 3220 in it that she has been using for minecraft, sims, roblox, etc... she is now trying to take over my computer to play overwatch. It has a 300w powersupply in it, are there any graphics cards that would be ok for it like a 1050ti or am I just screwed and need to make a whole new pc for her to play on? I can upgrade the cpu through a local second hand store to a I7 3820 to jazz it up some more. You should be able to put in a 1050 Ti on that machine as long as you shop for one without a PCI-E power connector. Be careful about CPU upgrades. The i7-3820 is one of the "extreme" CPUs and won't fit in her current motherboard because it's a LGA 2011 chip but that Shuttle motherboard is LGA 1155. Checking out this list: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ivy_Bridge_(microarchitecture)#Desktop_processors you would probably want an i7-3770 or i5-3570. They shouldn't be too expensive as long as you don't get the -K versions.
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Nov 19, 2018 09:13
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I have an old machine. I'm just wondering if it's feasible/sensible to upgrade my GPU to play Hitman 2. Running 1920x1080 @ 144Hz i5-7600 3.8 GHz QuadCore ASUS 'rog strix' Z270F 24 gb CORSAIR DDR4 3200MHz Some SSD and many HDDs R9 380 GPU The GPU is from an older machine because it was still the most powerful/economic option @ 2017 due to buttcoin mining shenanigans. Is my whole computer a dinosaur now, or can I actually get better performance with a more modern GPU?
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Nov 19, 2018 10:18
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Sanctum posted:I have an old machine. I'm just wondering if it's feasible/sensible to upgrade my GPU to play Hitman 2. Running 1920x1080 @ 144Hz It's a "dinosaur" for that specific game because apparently Hitman 2 is very CPU-limited right now Your i5 7600 would be similar to the i3 8100 in this chart:  A $200 RX 580 would be a good option in general, though: 
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Nov 19, 2018 10:45
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Was looking at the recent prices for 2070 cards and had to do a double-take, because they're much lower than I anticipated this long after launch. 500-530 for a rtx 2070 seems pretty darn good. Right now seems a good time to buy a 2070 instead of a 1080. Though given the recent crypto crash that price will probably go down next year as well. Can't speak to 2080s but 750-780 seems reasonable considering it's the replacement for the 1080 tis.
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Nov 19, 2018 12:10
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Big Headline & Eames, thanks for your hints+help 
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Nov 19, 2018 12:33
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$740 for a 1080 ti mini? Ummmm would this go well with a 2700x gaming rig? I do like the smaller profile and it has 11gb Ram so it seems like it’s not a weird china version https://www.price.com.hk/product.php?p=254009&sh_ref=cl_4c6292fa86a0fb77c126d855d7a8c760 Thanks goons for the help
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Nov 19, 2018 13:05
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Bought a Noctua NH-D15S and saw improved temps on my i5 4670 a few days ago. Today though I ended up buying a 2600x and a X470 Crosshair VII from Amazon due to prices being lower than any other local shops and then also being able to get another 11% cashback, total will be $611 AUD. Found some 3200mhz C14 RAM for $328 AUD, not sure whether to buy that or see if there are any better sales in the next week or so. I'm thinking of a Meshify C for good airflow, and whatever fully modular 650w gold rated PSU, does that sound right? Wanting to let XFR or Precision Boost 2 do it's thing, or overclock where I can. Will be carrying over a Vega 56 blower style GPU and pairing it with a MG279Q freesync monitor.
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Nov 19, 2018 13:48
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I'm excited to price check my parts now vs. a month ago to see if black friday will actually save me any money. I feel like I'm about to spend 5 hours picking similar parts to save $20 total on the rig. Edit: $70 saved vs. a month ago! PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($218.99 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: be quiet! - Dark Rock 3 67.8 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler ($61.79 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: Gigabyte - X470 AORUS ULTRA GAMING ATX AM4 Motherboard ($133.79 @ OutletPC) Memory: Corsair - Dominator Platinum 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($169.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Intel - 660p Series 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($165.99 @ B&H) Video Card: *EVGA - GeForce GTX 1070 Ti 8 GB GAMING Video Card ($379.89 @ OutletPC) Case: NZXT - H500 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.89 @ OutletPC) Total: $1270.32 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-11-19 10:39 EST-0500 Benson Cunningham fucked around with this message at 16:40 on Nov 19, 2018 |
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Nov 19, 2018 16:37
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I want to drop this here, maybe this helps other people who ran across the same issue: This can in some cases affect Asus ROG Maximus Mobos, for example the Hero X or my Hero XI, judging from the Asus forums and Reddit other people ran into this too. The screws on the heatsink covering your m.2 slot may be really tight. I tried loosening them with a small PZ0 screwdriver, which fits perfectly, but it was too small to have any effect, I tried hard enough to get blisters on my finger. I had to use a significantly bigger and heavier screwdriver to get them loose. Other people had similar issues and ended up ruining the screw. So be careful if you have one of the newer Asus boards, be sure to use proper tools.  This did not go so well...  But this did...
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Nov 19, 2018 17:02
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Yeah I'll say it again, I went all out on my last build and went with the expensive ROG board, no more ASUS for me. Build quality just wasn't there.
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Nov 19, 2018 17:51
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Hi, I just want to make sure this board at newegg on sale is fine: MSI - X370 GAMING PRO CARBON ATX AM4 Motherboard And this memory will work with AMD: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200 Or if anyone has any better memory suggestions, I don't care about the RGB part. Thanks
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Nov 19, 2018 18:43
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orcane posted:It's a "dinosaur" for that specific game because apparently Hitman 2 is very CPU-limited right now Apparently the RX 580 is perfect for my current machine https://thebottlenecker.com/calculator?d=147-2f-1-64-64-5bce1f13&m=0bc2 And the 1070 Ti is too much https://thebottlenecker.com/calculator?d=147-d-1-64-64-5bce1f13&m=2e61
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Nov 19, 2018 19:12
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