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BabyRyoga posted:This machine will never ug past windows 7, there are certain applications I use that can't handle any higher versions of Windows (that wouldn't require the current GPU if it is extracted). But yes, that is high on the priority list if I build a new one using some of the old parts. Considering that Microsoft has stopped support for W7, I would recommend not putting your W7 PC on the network connecting to the Internet. It would be extremely bad if your PC got compromised by an unpatched vulnerability and you wound up ruining that PC and other things inside your home/work network.
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Jul 11, 2019 01:04
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Thanks guys for the DAC input. With my z390 mobo I don't hear any artifacts at all in the headphones and I bound my sensitivity up/down buttons (by the mouse wheel) to volume up/down so I change my levels quickly that way. I have a boom stand with a snowball mic and a pop filter so people are appropriately swooned by my goon voice so that is covered as well.
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Jul 11, 2019 01:42
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If you're curious on X570 boards, Buildzoid put out a video just now where he goes all the way up the ASUS stack giving a short look at each one. It is an hour long but he gives a pretty decent review on features and complaints with each board, and whether he thinks they are worth it at their price points. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bqHd_tFqvj0 TL; DW, Asus boards around $200 are the best price/performance ratio, going higher is kind of pointless in his opinion. orange juche fucked around with this message at 02:46 on Jul 11, 2019 |
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Jul 11, 2019 02:40
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VelociBacon posted:Try manually installing realtek drivers from their website and make sure you have the right playback device enabled. For me the issue was having to install the realtek drivers. Stickman posted:If you're trying to do audio over HDMI, you're primary audio output is probably still set to your internal sound card. You'll need to change it to HDMI audio, which is probably listed as "[monitor name] (NVidia High Definition Audio)" if you have a NVidia card, or something similar for AMD. HDMI audio doesn't actually use your onboard sound at all, so your Realtek drivers shouldn't matter (but you'll want them updated anyway). Looks like installing the latest Radeon drivers fixed it.
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Jul 11, 2019 02:51
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So a buddy of mine decided he wanted a gaming PC, and wants something better than 1080p60. I talked him out of 1080p144 as all of the internet say the panels suck, which means we're going for 1440p144. We live near Microcenter so I spec'd out the below, using their prices. Some parts can be had cheaper but he's not willing to wait / make multiple orders. Really, what I'm wondering is what GPU to recommend; the 2060 and 2070 super as well as the 5700 / XT all seem good but I don't want to go with a blower and the supers aren't in stock yet so there's some time to decide, does anyone have any thoughts on this? Also, while I can look up ultra benchmarks all day long, what kind of experience can he expect turning things down to high or lower? I've never had a 1440p144 setup myself. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($199.00 @ B&H) Motherboard: ASRock - B450 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard ($40.00) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($83.00) Storage: Inland - Premium 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($95.00) Video Card: XFX - Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB Video Card ($399.99 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design - Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($100.00) Power Supply: Corsair - RMx (2018) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($110.00) Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($25.00) Monitor: Acer - XF270HU 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor ($350.00) Total: $1401.99 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-07-10 23:56 EDT-0400 Plus about $78 in tax, and they're sold out of the Tomahawk, but $50 off the Mobo can't be beat.
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Jul 11, 2019 05:00
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ItBreathes posted:So a buddy of mine decided he wanted a gaming PC, and wants something better than 1080p60. I talked him out of 1080p144 as all of the internet say the panels suck, which means we're going for 1440p144. We live near Microcenter so I spec'd out the below, using their prices. Some parts can be had cheaper but he's not willing to wait / make multiple orders. I saw that you asked about non-Ultra benchmarks earlier - Unfortunately I don't know of anyone who regularly incorporates reduced settings in comprehensive benchmarks. The best I've been able to come up with is "performance analysis" reviews for specific games, like PCGamer's AC:Odyssey breakdown. Obviously it's not necessarily generalizable because what "ultra" and "medium" and "low" mean vary from game-to-game. AC:Odyssey has a hefty 15-30% boost going from Ultra to Very High and gains another 30-50% going down to Low, but other games won't scale quite as much. On the build, it looks great for 1440p! I'd consider spending the extra $10 for a MSI B450-A Pro because the B450 Pro4 has pretty marginal VRM, especially if your friend might want to drop something more powerful than a 3600 in a few years down the line. On the GPU side, that's a tough call that probably depends on how much they want RTX and what games are bundled. In a straight-up comparison the XT comes out favorably against the 2070 Super - $100 cheaper, a bit more power efficient, and mostly closer in performance to the 2070s than the 2060s (though it varies wildly from game to game).
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Jul 11, 2019 06:26
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ItBreathes posted:So a buddy of mine decided he wanted a gaming PC, and wants something better than 1080p60. I talked him out of 1080p144 as all of the internet say the panels suck, which means we're going for 1440p144. We live near Microcenter so I spec'd out the below, using their prices. Some parts can be had cheaper but he's not willing to wait / make multiple orders. For the mobo you'll have to see if it has one of those Ready for Ryzen 3 stickers on it otherwise you'll have to update it yourself with an older Ryzen CPU. Tomahawks were sold out and have been for awhile at mine too so I got the MSI B450-A Pro since that is pretty much the same and has the BIOS Flashback. You could get a 550 or 650W PSU too. They have Supernovas or Focuses? I'd have to guess people would recommend the 2070 over 2060. The card needs to stay relevant at that resolution for the duration of its life meaning newer games too.
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Jul 11, 2019 06:28
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TheFluff posted:I'm not much of an audio nerd and I don't have super high impedance headphones, so for myself I just got a FiiO E10K. It was like $75, IIRC. Thanks! This is good info. The 2i2 is an interesting idea - I have one for recording but it never occurred to me to use it as a general-purpose DAC/Headpohone amp. It's mostly been sitting in the closet for the last year because Hawaii is unpleasant to anything metal and the nice chassis was starting to get spots..
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Jul 11, 2019 06:29
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Stickman posted:Some recommendations: There's one caveat: 3900x will boost single core a bit higher, so in some games (Total War series) you may disable hyperthreading and get closer to max stated boost clock. It depends heavily on games, and might not be the case when newer BIOS releases. Also some games will straight up work slower with 12 cores at 4.6 GHz than on 12c/24t at 4.4 GHz. I wouldn't bother, but for someone with 2080ti that wants to get the last couple of FPS it's a possibility. Zotix posted:Mine shipped as well. Will that increase to cl16 on a ryzen? You want CL to be lower number, so CL16 will be a decrease.
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Jul 11, 2019 08:00
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I couldn't find any other thread where this might be more appropriate to ask: is there a device I can buy that would let me plug into a motherboard's power-button header and trigger it with a button, for the purposes of turning on a system when it's still outside of a case? I've seen people say to just "short" the header, but I'm not particularly confident of doing that, and if there's a safer way of doing it, I think I'd rather spend a little extra for a gadget.
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Jul 11, 2019 08:12
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It's very simple, I wasn't sure either but it's just the top right 2 pins of the front panel connector, just look at your motherboard manual. You put a screwdriver or metal object touching them both for a brief moment and it should boot up.
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Jul 11, 2019 08:16
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gradenko_2000 posted:I couldn't find any other thread where this might be more appropriate to ask: is there a device I can buy that would let me plug into a motherboard's power-button header and trigger it with a button, for the purposes of turning on a system when it's still outside of a case? I've seen people say to just "short" the header, but I'm not particularly confident of doing that, and if there's a safer way of doing it, I think I'd rather spend a little extra for a gadget. Sure, I made my own with a mechanical switch from a keyboard and some jumper wires but they sell premade versions of that: https://smile.amazon.com/Electop-Power-Button-Computer-Switch/dp/B01LMZZFWO The switch closes while actuated so it's the same as touching the pins together with something metal or shorting the two pins together, but this is a little less janky.
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Jul 11, 2019 08:18
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I'm looking to do a full upgrade of my current system, and this is what I've come up with. I only use it for gaming (1440p 144hz monitor, but willing to turn down graphics a little) and general non demanding work, so I can't see much value in going up to a 3700x. The GPU is a toss up between the 5700XT and the 2070 non-super, but it seems the 5700XT beats it pretty handily outside of ray tracing. I have no idea on the memory, and I don't know if the SSD's I've chosen are unnecessarily fancy or anything. Any silly mistakes, or straight up better choices here? I'm in Australia BTW, so that limits some of the awesome deals I've seen you guys posting. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($315.00 @ PC Byte) Motherboard: MSI - B450 GAMING PRO CARBON AC ATX AM4 Motherboard ($216.00 @ Shopping Express) Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($134.20 @ Newegg Australia) Storage: ADATA - XPG SX8200 Pro 512 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($105.00 @ Umart) Storage: Samsung - 860 Evo 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($206.00 @ Shopping Express) Video Card: Sapphire - Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB Video Card ($679.00 @ JW Computers) Case: Fractal Design - Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($138.00 @ Skycomp Technology) Power Supply: SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($149.00 @ Mwave Australia) Total: $1942.20 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-07-11 17:53 AEST+1000
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Jul 11, 2019 09:00
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orange juche posted:Considering that Microsoft has stopped support for W7, I would recommend not putting your W7 PC on the network connecting to the Internet. It would be extremely bad if your PC got compromised by an unpatched vulnerability and you wound up ruining that PC and other things inside your home/work network. Windows 7 is not yet EOL. It gets security updates as normal. EOL is 14th January 2020 v I'm in no way arguing people shouldn't prepare, just pointing out it isn't (yet) a huge security issue HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 10:05 on Jul 11, 2019 |
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Jul 11, 2019 09:37
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HalloKitty posted:Windows 7 is NOT EOL. It gets security updates as normal. EOL is 14th January 2020 Ah I thought they had officially ended support for it. Didn't know that they had extended security support for it. You still probably should start reaching out to the developers of your W7 applications and find out if they're going to migrate to W10, or figure out what you're gonna do when January does roll around. 6 months is not very long at all. If you wrote the applications yourself you need to start working on moving to W10 sooner rather than later as I can almost guarantee that malicious actors are sitting on an absolute shitload of zero days for W7 that have not yet been exploited and are waiting for end of support to nail anyone still on W7.
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Jul 11, 2019 09:58
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I am upgrading my desktop from an i7-920 to an i7 9700k because I got a good deal on the 9700k from a friend who changed his mind and wanted an i9. So I bought a new motherboard and RAM to fit this new CPU I have. I was wondering if it's still like the XP days where you basically have to format and reinstall Windows when upgrading due to driver conflicts and such. I do remember upgrading my CPU/mobo/GPU at the same time when I had XP and it completely poo poo the bed, but if I am remembering correctly I once took my Windows 7 hard drive from my laptop and plugged it into my desktop and even that drastic of a hardware change didn't mess anything up; Win 7 ran stable if I recall correctly. But I have the memory of a goldfish so that might not be the case. Anyway let's just say for argument's sake that reinstalling Windows 10 is not an option, is my OS going to be a huge unstable mess because I upgraded the CPU and motherboard? (the GPU is staying the same). edit: also can I expect to actually lower my power consumption with this new setup compared to my old CPU with DDR3 ram? Or is that such a trivial difference that it's barely noticeable? Chumbawumba4ever97 fucked around with this message at 11:56 on Jul 11, 2019 |
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Jul 11, 2019 11:21
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Scorps posted:Have my 3700x build put together but struggling to find mobo's that will work with it out of box or allow CPU-less flashing. Is the 450 Tomahawk basically my only sure choice? I had planned to go with ASUS X470 Pro but I can't seem to confirm that I can update the BIOS without another AMD processor. It is listed as having Zen2 support but I'm upgrading from an Intel 2500k and have no access to any other AMD procs, or really any place like Microcenter near me to get something. Could take a look at the MSI B450 Gaming Pro Carbon AC. It’s basically the Tomahawk with some extra stuff like built-in WiFi and Bluetooth, 2 M.2 slots, better audio. Also has the Bios flashback feature so shouldn’t need an older cpu to update. Best check the tech specs on it though. As I understand, using one of the M.2 ports disables two of the SATA ports (though this also applies to the Tomahawk) and using the other disables 4 of the PCI-E slots, if you were planning to have anything other than a graphics card plugged in. I’ve picked up one myself for a 3700X build. In a similar boat to yourself as upgrading from an Intel 2600K. Will report back on how it goes when I get round to it this weekend.
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Jul 11, 2019 11:23
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orange juche posted:6 months is not very long at all. Ugh. Now it feels like my new computer build has a deadline. I'm planning swapping to windows 10 for my new PC, Soon™ Well Soon™ is now and I still can't decide on a case! Seems the The Tower 900 is going to be too tall for my desk, ( I only have 29 inch between lower and upper shelf) plus I haven't seen a single build where someone didn't take a dremel to it to get parts to fit. Shame too, I liked the dual power supply idea. I could run one to a second water pump for easier filling / redundancy. (Also the motherboard/chipset/VRM's M.2's etc would get no air flow as the only fan for it is a single one right at the top of the case which sounds dumb) Now I'm thinking Lian-Li V3000. Does anyone know if there's any common known issues with that case? Ak Gara fucked around with this message at 11:50 on Jul 11, 2019 |
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Jul 11, 2019 11:45
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Ok, it's time to upgrade from my stalwart but aged i7 920 system, how's this for size. Prices are in dollarydoos. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($519.00 @ PLE Computers) Motherboard: ASRock - X570M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($252.00 @ Shopping Express) Storage: HP - EX920 512 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive Storage: Crucial - MX500 2 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($325.00 @ Shopping Express) Storage: Western Digital - Red 8 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Black 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Video Card: XFX - Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB Video Card ($688.51 @ Newegg Australia) Case: Thermaltake - Level 20 VT MicroATX Desktop Case ($139.00 @ Umart) Power Supply: SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($149.00 @ Mwave Australia) Total: $2072.51 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-07-11 21:22 AEST+1000 1. I game and I productivise. It's hard to say what games I'll play, because I have a lot I'd like to play but can't on my current rig, ie Total War Warhammer, Metro. Nothing particularly strenuous in productivity. 2. Down here there is still a big price difference between SATA and M.2 drives in the high capacity range, hence the big Crucial SSD as a game drive, and the HP M.2 as a boot drive. 3. I bought the big Red drive a couple months ago as phase 1 of the move. The Black drive is the only part moving across from the old system permanently, a game drive for things that don't need the SSD. The motherboardis not actually available at retail yet, but it's the only x570 or even x470 matx board 4. The 5700XT is a placeholder for wattage calculations, I plan to use my R9 380 until the board partners come up with non-blower 5700XTs, with 3 fans and some factory overclocking it's far and away the noicest gfx card available right now, especially when it's cheaper than the 2060S down here. I've already bought a 3440x1440 100hz freesync screen, and am considering keeping one of my older 1920x1200 screens in portrait mode as a second screen if I have the grunt. 5. Actual questions: Is that PSU big enough? There are some fans and RGB to add too, a 140 and two 120s most likely. The memory is cl17, I'm led believe that's perfectly fine for Ryzen 3000? NTRabbit fucked around with this message at 12:24 on Jul 11, 2019 |
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Jul 11, 2019 12:10
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Hoobastank4ever97 posted:I am upgrading my desktop from an i7-920 to an i7 9700k because I got a good deal on the 9700k from a friend who changed his mind and wanted an i9. So I bought a new motherboard and RAM to fit this new CPU I have. You will need a whole new key for windows. Microsoft attach the version you currently have to your motherboard and CPU so you can't just upgrade and keep using Windows. Not only will you need to reinstall, but you will need a new key. There is a goon who can hook you up with a new key for a Windows 10 install for cheap. TDP on the I7 9700k will be lower than the i7-920, but i would also look at getting a PSU as the processor you have is over 10 years old and I am assuming that the PSU you have is as old as the processor. Last thing you want to see is your new system have issues due to power issues or zap everything from failure.
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Jul 11, 2019 14:25
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Whiskey A Go Go! posted:You will need a whole new key for windows. Microsoft attach the version you currently have to your motherboard and CPU so you can't just upgrade and keep using Windows. Not only will you need to reinstall, but you will need a new key. I can't speak to the issues that might or might not occur with an upgrade-in-place with different hardware, but on the key issue I don't think this is correct. You may need to reinstall, but on a reinstall you can re-use an old key—that's exactly what I did a couple days ago with a completely different machine.
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Jul 11, 2019 14:30
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Even if you can install in place (and I'm pretty sure you can nowadays), doing a fresh install is still a good idea. It gets rid of years of accumulated OS cruft and ensures there won't be some weird conflict with the new hardware, just move all your non-os files to another drive first. E: Any thoughts on the VR performance of a 1660 or 1660ti?
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Jul 11, 2019 14:45
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I upgraded my windows 8 key to windows 10 on my old 3570k pc in 2015. When I got my 9900k build the automatic keyless switchover failed. However digging up the actual physical windows 8 product key, same key I upgraded to windows 10, in my house and typing it in installed a full activated version of windows 10 on my new pc. Whatever Microsoft said about product keys being disintegrated was completely false
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Jul 11, 2019 15:14
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I'm thinking of getting a PC again after a decade of not having one. I'm in Ireland but will likely source the items from the UK because it's usually cheaper. I'd want to game and code on it (casual). I was thinking of starting off with something small with a view to expanding it out over time. I'm not interested in overclocking in case that matters. Could I get opinions on this. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 3400G 3.7 GHz Quad-Core Processor (£139.98 @ Aria PC) Motherboard: MSI - MPG X570 GAMING EDGE WIFI ATX AM4 Motherboard (£205.40 @ Alza) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory (£89.99 @ Corsair UK) Storage: Crucial - P1 500 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive (£54.56 @ Amazon UK) Case: Phanteks - Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case (£87.40 @ Aria PC) Power Supply: SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (£85.47 @ Amazon UK) Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit (£99.00 @ Amazon UK) Total: £761.80 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-07-11 15:25 BST+0100 The idea would be to start off with the 3400G but later replace it with maybe a 3600X and RTX 2060 Super. lemonadesweetheart fucked around with this message at 15:54 on Jul 11, 2019 |
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Jul 11, 2019 15:25
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Stickman posted:Thanks! This is good info. The 2i2 is an interesting idea - I have one for recording but it never occurred to me to use it as a general-purpose DAC/Headpohone amp. It's mostly been sitting in the closet for the last year because Hawaii is unpleasant to anything metal and the nice chassis was starting to get spots.. There's actually a budget Scarlett Solo that has a dedicated phantom powered XLR, instrument input and headphone output for $110; in fact Sweetwater has a Gen2 Scarlett Solo demo unit on sale for $99 currently that's fully covered by their 2-year warranty. If anyone really wants to delve into their options, Focusrite have a filtered comparison chart to determine your needs, but note that it doesn't include the latest Scarlett Gen3 models (updated to USB-C) that just came out -- edit: you can use the handy chart in this article to see what Gen2 models match up to Gen3. I'm currently trying to decide between a Gen3 4i4 and 8i6 myself. Anarch fucked around with this message at 16:57 on Jul 11, 2019 |
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Jul 11, 2019 16:41
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gradenko_2000 posted:I couldn't find any other thread where this might be more appropriate to ask: is there a device I can buy that would let me plug into a motherboard's power-button header and trigger it with a button, for the purposes of turning on a system when it's still outside of a case? I've seen people say to just "short" the header, but I'm not particularly confident of doing that, and if there's a safer way of doing it, I think I'd rather spend a little extra for a gadget.
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Jul 11, 2019 16:57
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ethanol posted:I upgraded my windows 8 key to windows 10 on my old 3570k pc in 2015. When I got my 9900k build the automatic keyless switchover failed. However digging up the actual physical windows 8 product key, same key I upgraded to windows 10, in my house and typing it in installed a full activated version of windows 10 on my new pc. Whatever Microsoft said about product keys being disintegrated was completely false To add on to this I just upgraded my PC this past week and replaced the motherboard and CPU. I reinstalled windows and attempted to use my windows 10 pro product key after installation and it refused to activate but it told me to call Microsoft and enter a long string of numbers into their automated phone system which then has me enter a different long string of numbers into my pc and then it activated.
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Jul 11, 2019 17:47
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So, can I get a sanity check on this build? I think everything looks good and whatnot, but I haven't built a system since 2012 and everything is new again. I've already got a 1TB SSD to use as a boot drive so now worries there. System will be almost entirely used for gaming, aiming for 1440 eventually. The only thing I'm not really sure on is the video card, 2070 supers seem to be hard to find still since they just launched so I'm open to other versions besides the one I picked. Any other glaring issues/things I've missed? PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 3600X 3.8 GHz 6-Core Processor ($248.50 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock - X570 Extreme4 ATX AM4 Motherboard ($229.99 @ Newegg) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($69.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Seagate - Barracuda 3 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($79.89 @ OutletPC) Video Card: EVGA - GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB BLACK GAMING Video Card ($519.99 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design - Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ Walmart) Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($109.89 @ OutletPC) Case Fan: Fractal Design - X2 GP-12 (Black) 52.3 CFM 120 mm Fan ($12.99 @ Amazon) Total: $1361.23 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-07-11 12:42 EDT-0400
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Jul 11, 2019 17:48
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For those of you interested in how the 3900X will work on an older 350 motherboard... https://www.techspot.com/review/1872-ryzen-9-on-older-motherboards/ I actually pulled the trigger on a 3700X and another 16gb of ram in the end, but if id seen this sooner i may have opted for the 3900x.
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Jul 11, 2019 17:56
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lemonadesweetheart posted:I'm thinking of getting a PC again after a decade of not having one. I'm in Ireland but will likely source the items from the UK because it's usually cheaper. I'd want to game and code on it (casual). I was thinking of starting off with something small with a view to expanding it out over time. I'm not interested in overclocking in case that matters. Could I get opinions on this. The Zen 2 3xxx series doesn't need to be on the latest x570 board, so if you'd like to save a bit you could go with a x470/b450 board instead. You'll miss out on PCIe 4.0, but no graphics cards currently run at that rate and none are limited by PCIe 3.0. If you're not planning on getting any HDDs or cd/dvd drives, you could go for a case without mounting spots for them like the Fractal Design Meshify C.
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Jul 11, 2019 18:02
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The Gate posted:So, can I get a sanity check on this build? I think everything looks good and whatnot, but I haven't built a system since 2012 and everything is new again. I've already got a 1TB SSD to use as a boot drive so now worries there. System will be almost entirely used for gaming, aiming for 1440 eventually. The only thing I'm not really sure on is the video card, 2070 supers seem to be hard to find still since they just launched so I'm open to other versions besides the one I picked. Blower models really suck. I would wait until something comes in stock that isn't blower or buy direct from Nvidia since they have a solid cooler now. Although it shows a blower model in the images and then the description has a good cooler on it... so I dunno what you are actually getting... Everything else looks good although you probably can get away with a 650w PSU.
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Jul 11, 2019 18:19
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Thom P. Tiers posted:Blower models really suck. I would wait until something comes in stock that isn't blower or buy direct from Nvidia since they have a solid cooler now. Although it shows a blower model in the images and then the description has a good cooler on it... so I dunno what you are actually getting... Yeah, that's legit, and I'm not entirely sure about that specific card either. I appreciate the heads-up, though, I'll have to check around for some alternate versions
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Jul 11, 2019 18:42
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ItBreathes posted:E: Any thoughts on the VR performance of a 1660 or 1660ti? When I upgraded from a 1060 to a 1080, I honestly didn't notice much of any VR performance difference on my Rift CV1, except in Payday 2 which stopped lagging. Pushing flat games to my x34p is significantly more demanding than almost any VR game (due primarily to graphics settings/quality, I guess.) I'm sure a 1660 or ti would be adequate for almost any VR game.
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Jul 11, 2019 18:44
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For those looking at getting a really good 2070 SUPER at a great price right now: https://www.newegg.com/msi-geforce-rtx-2070-super-rtx-2070-super-gaming-x-trio/p/N82E16814137439 This is in stock. It's long, so be careful. But that's a great price for a boosted 2070 SUPER.
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Jul 11, 2019 19:13
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lemonadesweetheart posted:I'm thinking of getting a PC again after a decade of not having one. I'm in Ireland but will likely source the items from the UK because it's usually cheaper. I'd want to game and code on it (casual). I was thinking of starting off with something small with a view to expanding it out over time. I'm not interested in overclocking in case that matters. Could I get opinions on this. You didn't say what sort of gaming you'd like to do, but the 3400G is disappointing for both processing and gpu performance compared to a proper 6-core GPU and a discrete graphics card. The X570 is a far more expensive motherboard than you need, so if you drop that down (and get a Windows 10 key from SAMart), there's room to put in better components and stay close to your price point: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor (£118.49 @ Amazon UK) Motherboard: MSI - B450 GAMING PRO CARBON AC ATX AM4 Motherboard (£114.99 @ Amazon UK) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory (£89.99 @ Corsair UK) Storage: ADATA - XPG SX6000 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive (£108.48 @ Ebuyer) Video Card: XFX - Radeon RX 580 8 GB GTS XXX ED Video Card (£159.00 @ Amazon UK) Case: Phanteks - Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case (£87.40 @ Aria PC) Power Supply: SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (£85.47 @ Amazon UK) Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit (£20.00) Total: £783.82 CPU: The 2600 is a perfectly serviceable 6-core/12-thread CPU that's not held back by it's cache like the 3400G. It's max boost is slightly less, but with a cheap cooler you can overclock it if necessary though there are no current games where you'll be bottlenecked by your CPU at noticeable frame rates unless you have a very powerful GPU. B450 Motherboards are compatible with 3rd-gen Ryzen chips as well, so you could drop in one of those when your CPU starts feeling anemic. Currently the 3600 is an extra £60 so it's probably not worth it for what you're doing. Motherboard: The X570 Gaming Edge WIFI is actually extremely similar to the B450 Pro Carbon AC - it just gets you a few extra USB 3.1 gen 2 ports on the back, the second M.2 slot runs at x4 instead of x2 (which doesn't really matter outside of specialized applications), and PCIe 4.0 (which again, doesn't really matter right now). Memory: 3600 isn't much of an impact over 3200 right now, but you'd only save £10 or so by dropping down. Storage: The Corsair P1 is tough to recommend as a primary drive because it's based on QLC NAND which trades endurance and performance (which also degrades as it fills) for cost. Even then, it's only a few pounds cheaper than proper TLC NVMe drives like the sx6200. I've also bumped you up to 1TB because AAA games are getting big. Video Card: The RX 580 is a good choice for 1080p/60Hz. You might not be able to get solid 60fps with maxed out settings in some of the newest AAA games, but you'll get pretty close if you turn a few things down. It's a huge improvement over the integrated graphics in the 3400G (like 3x-4x). An extra £40 would get you an NVidia 1660, which an ~15% performance boost over the 580. Case: The Enthoo Pro is nice, but if you don't want the ODD bays the Fractal Design Meshify C is a newer design with better airflow. It also comes in a tempered glass flavor. Operating System: Get a Windows 7 Pro key from SAMart for $25 and use that to activate Windows 10 Pro. Stickman fucked around with this message at 19:56 on Jul 11, 2019 |
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Jul 11, 2019 19:46
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The Gate posted:Yeah, that's legit, and I'm not entirely sure about that specific card either. I appreciate the heads-up, though, I'll have to check around for some alternate versions Thom P. Tiers posted:Blower models really suck. I would wait until something comes in stock that isn't blower or buy direct from Nvidia since they have a solid cooler now. Although it shows a blower model in the images and then the description has a good cooler on it... so I dunno what you are actually getting... It's a weird listing because the EVGA Black Gaming is the dual-fan version and the part number (08G-P4-3071-KR) matches the black. Regardless, the dual-fan version is actually $499 if you order directly from EVGA so I'd probably do that instead.
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Jul 11, 2019 19:48
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As my parts start flowing in I am dreading the flashing BIOS process... anyone here know enough about it to tell me sort of exactly what I need to do and how much I need to connect to get to BIOS? I plan on doing it from a USB stick (this is the smarter way, right?) I have an ASUS Rog Strix x470-i gaming. My current build is a Ryzen 1600. Plan: Load newest BIOS from ASUS onto a bootable USB. Throw my ryzen 1600 with cooler into the new motherboard along with my RAM and a GPU. Hook up all power components from the PSU onto the mobo/gpu. Plug in a monitor and power on. This should get me to the BIOS screen right (I don't need hard drives or crap)? Now I can EZ Flash with the USB drive? Wait until that loads and reboots and make sure the revision date on the BIOS is correct. Then I can take everything apart and be good to go when my new Ryzen comes? I've updated BIOS before but never like this and it seems like it's going to be such a hassle 
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Jul 11, 2019 19:53
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Actuarial Fables posted:The Zen 2 3xxx series doesn't need to be on the latest x570 board, so if you'd like to save a bit you could go with a x470/b450 board instead. You'll miss out on PCIe 4.0, but no graphics cards currently run at that rate and none are limited by PCIe 3.0.  I'm so very tempted to pop a 3900X in my x470. It would free up the 2600 for the family build...
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Jul 11, 2019 19:56
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Thom P. Tiers posted:As my parts start flowing in I am dreading the flashing BIOS process... anyone here know enough about it to tell me sort of exactly what I need to do and how much I need to connect to get to BIOS? I plan on doing it from a USB stick (this is the smarter way, right?) Yeah, that or call around your local computer shops and see what they'd charge you to flash it.
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Jul 11, 2019 20:00
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Stickman posted:Yeah, that or call around your local computer shops and see what they'd charge you to flash it. I got one quote for "$40-70" and that range seems ridiculous. I called another place and some old lady who was "covering the phones" had no idea what I was talking about. Edit: Also calling all of these stores makes me realize I know a hell of a lot more about computers than these people do. Christ. Thom P. Tiers fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Jul 11, 2019 |
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Jul 11, 2019 20:01
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