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Snorkel fillers are cool and I can't wait for the day that PenBBS or Wing Sung/Hero comes out with a version that costs like, $20.
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Aug 19, 2019 16:50
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Sankis posted:Oh for sure. I have a bunch of rhodia stuff. I guess stationary is a catchall for paper and such. In the context of my last post I meant like... fancy paper and envelopes for nice hand written letters I like to write my letters on Tomoe River paper.
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Aug 19, 2019 23:46
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Sankis posted:Also if you do that buy some wax and seal your envelopes because it seems cool as poo poo. Oh, heck yeah. Now, where do I buy a signet ring? bulletsponge13 posted:We come across them regularly as we look around- I know for a fact I've probably looked over a hundred before it dawned on me that I should look while we are out. We don't go anywhere specific- just see them in cases from time to time. Today I saw 5 Shaeffers- three piston fill ones- all the same model, different colors, a basic metallic tone and red plastic, and the Imperial I ended up with, that I just wrote a card out with for my wife. She, honestly, is the entire reason I have one pen, much less the handful that I have. She contribute to my hobbies and is supportive and poo poo. Very cool, thanks. Congratulations on marrying up, Goon. Edit: I need a vector image of Dickbutt. Anyone?
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Aug 21, 2019 02:12
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Sankis posted:Oh for sure. I have a bunch of rhodia stuff. I guess stationary is a catchall for paper and such. In the context of my last post I meant like... fancy paper and envelopes for nice hand written letters ah, gotcha, i have used the hp 32lb with lines printed on it for some stuff, like make my own notebooks. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000099O2W/ref=twister_B07VWXQWHW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 couple with a nice paper cutter, and this website: https://www.printablepaper.net/preview/grid-portrait-letter-4-noindex I used that a lot for notes since having a grid is helpful for working out algorithms and stuff when you need to deal with arrays/whatever i think your printer needs to be able to go end to end which some cant because of margins, but it's been a while since i messed around with it
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Aug 21, 2019 02:35
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I'm not really one for limited edition pens but god drat if this isn't pretty as hell. https://www.gouletpens.com/collections/coming-soon/products/pelikan-m205-fountain-pen-star-ruby-special-edition?variant=17038499479595 I hope it stays in stock a very long time like the Smoky Quartz so I can get it for $115 bucks a year or two down the line. Plinkey posted:ah, gotcha, i have used the hp 32lb with lines printed on it for some stuff, like make my own notebooks. I bought a ream of the hp 32lb paper a few weeks back and never considered this. Smart. I'm gonna print me some paper. Sankis fucked around with this message at 07:35 on Aug 21, 2019 |
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Aug 21, 2019 07:32
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I know I'm still like, a noob in terms of pens, but my second pen is on its way, a pilot metro with some iroshizuku murasaki-shikibu to put in it! Supposed to be here Friday according to the tracking.
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Aug 21, 2019 07:49
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I don't have any purples, but Iroshizuku inks have been my most consistent. You're going to enjoy it.
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Aug 21, 2019 11:02
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cowboy
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Is there a goon consensus on universal ink converters?
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Aug 21, 2019 12:53
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Sailor released a Stormy Sea version of the King of Pen! I really love my 1911L Stormy Sea, and I've always wanted a King of Pen. Shame about the price though. I've spent a lot on pens, but that much for a plastic C/C pen is a line I just can't cross.
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Aug 21, 2019 13:56
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Sankis posted:I'm not really one for limited edition pens but god drat if this isn't pretty as hell.
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Aug 21, 2019 14:21
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My Pilot Metro has started to leak at the joint of the metal body and plastic section to which the cap fits. It's leaking here because the converter no longer fits snugly, pops loose, and empties the ink into the body of the pen. In this picture, the arrow drawn in the desk is pointing at the leaky spot.  What is the best solution? Just use cartridges in this pen and get a Lamy Safari in which to use a converter?
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Aug 21, 2019 17:12
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In my experience with Metros, yes, cartridges always fit a little better. I'd say get a blunt syringe and fill them by hand, you get more ink capacity that way anyway.
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Aug 21, 2019 17:16
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MockingQuantum posted:I'd say get a blunt syringe and fill them by hand, you get more ink capacity that way anyway. Yeah, but it would still leak from that spot, right?
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Aug 21, 2019 17:17
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Yeah, but it would still leak from that spot, right? I'm guessing there may be other issues with the pen if it's leaking from there at all. There's really no instance where you should end up with ink inside the body of the pen, I've never had it happen before. It's probably actually an issue with the grip/feed section, in which case the only actual solution is probably just getting a new pen. Leaking into the cap isn't unheard of, especially if the pen gets warm/jostled (ie in a pocket) but I've never had ink in the body on any of mine before.
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Aug 21, 2019 17:20
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MockingQuantum posted:I'm guessing there may be other issues with the pen if it's leaking from there at all. There's really no instance where you should end up with ink inside the body of the pen, I've never had it happen before. It's probably actually an issue with the grip/feed section, in which case the only actual solution is probably just getting a new pen. Leaking into the cap isn't unheard of, especially if the pen gets warm/jostled (ie in a pocket) but I've never had ink in the body on any of mine before. Oh, I see, you're saying fill the cartridges by hand, right? Not just fill the body of the pen up with ink?
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Aug 21, 2019 17:27
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Yeah. Just reuse the cartridges. You can fill the body up of some pens with a little bit of effort (look up eyedropper conversions) but it's generally a bad idea to do that to metal body pens since they will corrode.
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Aug 21, 2019 17:43
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Excellent, thank you. I'll give that a shot, and I have access to syringes of all sizes. How well does the Lamy Safari work with the Z24 converter in comparison to the Metro?
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Aug 21, 2019 17:53
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Excellent, thank you. I'll give that a shot, and I have access to syringes of all sizes. Just fine, the Safari nibs tend to run wider than Pilot nibs (this is mostly true of European/American pens vs Japanese pens in general) so a Lamy Fine tends to be closer to a Pilot Medium. The Lamy converters also have a slightly smaller capacity than the converters that usually ship with Metros (0.8mL vs 1mL). Other than that I've never had issues with Safaris. Also if you decide you absolutely love the Safari body but want a nicer nib on your Lego pen, Lamy makes a 14k gold nib that'll fit it 
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Aug 21, 2019 18:20
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MockingQuantum posted:I'm guessing there may be other issues with the pen if it's leaking from there at all. There's really no instance where you should end up with ink inside the body of the pen, I've never had it happen before. It's probably actually an issue with the grip/feed section, in which case the only actual solution is probably just getting a new pen. Leaking into the cap isn't unheard of, especially if the pen gets warm/jostled (ie in a pocket) but I've never had ink in the body on any of mine before. Speaking of, my Pilot Metro has been leaking into its cap semi-regularly for a few months. I did happen to drop it a while ago, but I've swapped nibs since then, to an EF from a penmanship, and it's still doing it, so it's not just the nib. I'm pretty sure I've been putting the cartridges in firmly enough, so I'm not sure what's going on. It's not a huge deal, but it's annoying to get ink on my hands regularly when I open the thing.
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Aug 21, 2019 20:04
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Yes you refill the cartridge. You CAN fill the body up but that's called an eyedropper conversion. You can Google that if you're interested. Doesn't work with all pens because you have to make the pen airtight. E:beaten!
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Aug 21, 2019 20:08
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Excellent, thank you. I'll give that a shot, and I have access to syringes of all sizes. I just got a pack of Z24/Z28 converters for my Lamy Safari the other day. I am definitely getting worse ink flow and more scratching since I started using the converter instead of the cartridges that came with the pen. It's not terrible, but it's noticeable. As far as the mechanism and the fit, they're fine. Edit: FFT posted:I don't have any purples, but Iroshizuku inks have been my most consistent. You're going to enjoy it. How good is that ink? Noodler's is ~$12/3oz, and the Iroshizuku is like $20 for 50ml. Edit: Too late. Edit: Amazon just gave me an $1,800 store credit card while I was browsing fountain pen stuff. This is not good. Veni Vidi Ameche! fucked around with this message at 02:51 on Aug 22, 2019 |
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Aug 22, 2019 02:44
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Also, has anyone personal experience with the Zebra offerings? I love their ballpoints, but everything I'm seeing is saying they use proprietary carts, and there arent any adaptors yet.
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Aug 22, 2019 03:39
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Veni Vidi Ameche! posted:I just got a pack of Z24/Z28 converters for my Lamy Safari the other day. I am definitely getting worse ink flow and more scratching since I started using the converter instead of the cartridges that came with the pen. It's not terrible, but it's noticeable. As far as the mechanism and the fit, they're fine. Shouldn’t flow and scratchiness be a factor of the ink rather than the container it’s in? Assuming you’re not filling the converter with the same stuff in the cartridge that comes with the pen, that is.
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Aug 22, 2019 03:42
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Veni Vidi Ameche! posted:How good is that ink? Noodler's is ~$12/3oz, and the Iroshizuku is like $20 for 50ml. FWIW the pen shop in Vancouver will not touch Noodler's because it's inconsistent. They do carry Iroshizukus, which are remarkably well-behaved inks.
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Aug 22, 2019 03:55
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Some noodler’s are worse than others, as Pixelante could probably attest from the near-illegible card I wrote to them in General of The Armies (while using a noodles Charlie no less). I sometimes wonder if that ink isn’t just rebranded house paint. Other colours are pretty reliable; Nikita and Tianamen haven’t let me down yet in any of the pens I have used them in. My personal favourite for reliability is still R&K; while their inks are a little on the watery side, I’ve never had any sort of blockage or difficulty cleaning up their inks, but you do have to live with the fact the water resistance might as well be nil unless you’re using one of their iron gall inks.
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Aug 22, 2019 05:53
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Shouldn’t flow and scratchiness be a factor of the ink rather than the container it’s in? Assuming you’re not filling the converter with the same stuff in the cartridge that comes with the pen, that is. I don’t know enough about fountain pens to say whether that’s the case. What I can say is that I have the same Noodler’s ink in both my Pilot Metro and my Lamy Safari, right now, and only the Lamy, which is using the converter, is having that problem. It’s not conclusive, it’s just something I noticed. Pixelante posted:FWIW the pen shop in Vancouver will not touch Noodler's because it's inconsistent. They do carry Iroshizukus, which are remarkably well-behaved inks. Oh, that’s too bad. It was mentioned in the introductory post, and I saw people discuss it a few times in here, so I gave it a try. I have several bottles, now. I’ll pay attention and see if some are better than others. In the meantime, I did buy a bottle of Iroshizuku ink.
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Aug 22, 2019 06:24
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xxb-XqsgaqM&t=64s Brian Allison has an unusual way of holding the pen to avoid smudges Do any lefties here write like this?
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Aug 22, 2019 10:11
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Platystemon posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xxb-XqsgaqM&t=64s I personally do not, but that technique is called "overwriting". My method involves turning the paper somewhere between 45 and 90 degrees to my body and as I write, my hand comes in towards me.
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Aug 22, 2019 10:23
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So I checked my tracking on on way home from work and it said my pen was out for delivery! It has now arrived so have some somewhat-crappy cursive. The ink is a bit lighter than I expected, but I still like it a lot!
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Aug 22, 2019 16:34
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Platystemon posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xxb-XqsgaqM&t=64s I'm a righty and I wrote like that for decades because I sat next to a lefty for years in elementary and kindergarten. I unlearned it but I still think I liked it better.
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Aug 22, 2019 17:58
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What's more common is the full-on Claw that results from southpaws curling their hand all the way around to mimic the push/pull strokes right-handed writing. That's about halfway there.
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Aug 22, 2019 18:31
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Murasaki Shikibu isn't a super shady ink and out of a fine nib it's going to look pretty thin. Try it in a fat nib.
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Aug 22, 2019 19:11
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quietly placing this link here in case some richy rich in this thread has $1900 to drop on one of the last original Naginata Togi nibs remaining in the wild. I dipped and wrote with it for a page or so and this nib is just honestly cool as hell. https://www.nibs.com/pens/pre-owned-sailor-king-pen-green-urushi-naginata-togi-mf-nib In less expensive news, one of my old Sheaffer pens is a super wet writer and will not stop blobbing on the page no matter what I do. Please recommend me your driest, most viscous inks (preferably not iron gall since I can't be trusted to clean anything out). Also does anyone know of inks that behave nicely on yellow legal pads? My mom is getting interested in fountain pens but those pads are all she ever writes on, and in my experience even good inks feather like crazy on that paper. Noodler's Zhivago is my personal favorite ink so far for being dark-but-not-black, and well-behaved even on lovely yellow legal pads, but I was hoping to find her a nice saturated blue or blue-green. MockingQuantum posted:Okay, it's ink suggestion time again-- I've now tested all of my ink samples and found some really good ones that I'm probably going to get in bottles, but I have a big hole in my rainbow. I've got some nice reds I like, and I'm totally set on forest/kelly kind of greens, and really don't need any more blues/indigos/violets (for now), but I have really no oranges, ambers, browns, yellows, yellow-greens or blue-greens. Any kneejerk suggestions for any of those? Or colors that I'm forgetting exist? My favorite blue-green is actually a blue-green-black: Noodler's Air Corps Blue-Black. It's a deeeeeeep dark teal and highly water resistant, but will bleed out some of the bright teal pigment if it gets wet (which is a neat look in and of itself). Diamine Ancient Copper gets a lot of praise for good reasons, it's a really cool rusty red clay color. I also like Pilot's Yu-Yake which is ambery orange when wet but dries down to a sunset red-orange. I got a bunch of cheap Noodler's bottles in various straightforward colors like brown, blue, magenta, etc. and mix them up at will when I'm feeling like a change. Adding a bit of magenta or bordeaux to a basic brown ink makes a really nice rich deep ultra-brown that I like a lot and never get tired of. ENEMIES EVERYWHERE fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Aug 22, 2019 |
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Aug 22, 2019 22:40
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ENEMIES EVERYWHERE posted:quietly placing this link here in case some richy rich in this thread has $1900 to drop on one of the last original Naginata Togi nibs remaining in the wild. I dipped and wrote with it for a page or so and this nib is just honestly cool as hell. Heart of Darkness and Midnight Blue
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Aug 22, 2019 23:20
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ENEMIES EVERYWHERE posted:In less expensive news, one of my old Sheaffer pens is a super wet writer and will not stop blobbing on the page no matter what I do. Please recommend me your driest, most viscous inks (preferably not iron gall since I can't be trusted to clean anything out). It's been a while, but I seem to recall that most of my J. Herbin inks worked nicely on legal pads. But I also don't really use anything wetter than a steel F Pelikan, so I can't really say how well they'd behave with anything broader/wetter. I don't think there's a particularly teal Herbin off the top of my head, but the blues are pretty nice, at least. I also find them fairly dry, but I'm pretty sure the general opinion is that they aren't especially dry. Veni Vidi Ameche! posted:Oh, that’s too bad. It was mentioned in the introductory post, and I saw people discuss it a few times in here, so I gave it a try. I have several bottles, now. I’ll pay attention and see if some are better than others. In the meantime, I did buy a bottle of Iroshizuku ink. Most of the time when people talk about Noodler's being inconsistent, they mean "the hue is different from the swatch/my last bottle/&c.," although it is true that because of the huge amount of formulatons and lines you can't really make a blanket statement about feathering/bleedthrough/wetness for Noodler's on the whole. Still, I'd say they're mostly fine, although I feel that they behave differently in different pens/on different paper to a higher degree than other inks do. As for letter-writing paper, the last time I bought some I just grabbed a pack of loose paper at staples* or something and it worked out well enough. Unless you want fancy edged paper (in which case I'd probably just go for clairefontaine), I'd just grab whatever had a nice shade on jetpens or goulet (after flipping through the reviews just to make sure there aren't tons of complaints about feathering or whatever). *Probably make sure it doesn't say it's for inkjets or lasers or something, I'm pretty sure those tend to be coated and that probably won't work so well.
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Aug 22, 2019 23:59
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Every now and then I uncap my Lamy 2000 and it looks like this: It's not a new pen; I've had it for years, but I usually forget about the problem, put it back in my rotation, and then remember all over again why I stopped using it. Is there a fix for this? I'd like to keep using it without wondering if there's a big pool of ink sitting in the cap.
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Aug 24, 2019 00:16
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The seals likely need to be lubricated/replaced. Even if you jostle it a lot a 2000 should not be dumping that much ink in the cap.
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Aug 24, 2019 02:03
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404notfound posted:Every now and then I uncap my Lamy 2000 and it looks like this: I actually think the problem is that you have a big pool of ink sitting in the cap. Ink can hang out in a cap for ages without drying, so once you've jostled the pen once and squirted ink into the cap, you'll have a dirty section no matter how careful you are afterwards. Carefully swab out the cap with a twisted paper towel and/or cotton buds (I'm not sure if the L2K has grippy bits in the cap but if it does, avoid getting bits of paper caught in them), and then leave the pen capped and inked for a while. If there's no more inky section then you've ruled out a fresh leak, but if the ink is back then you might have bigger problems.
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Aug 24, 2019 02:54
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Dad Hominem posted:I actually think the problem is that you have a big pool of ink sitting in the cap. Ink can hang out in a cap for ages without drying, so once you've jostled the pen once and squirted ink into the cap, you'll have a dirty section no matter how careful you are afterwards. Carefully swab out the cap with a twisted paper towel and/or cotton buds (I'm not sure if the L2K has grippy bits in the cap but if it does, avoid getting bits of paper caught in them), and then leave the pen capped and inked for a while. If there's no more inky section then you've ruled out a fresh leak, but if the ink is back then you might have bigger problems. Sorry, I didn't mean that the ink just sits in there forever. Whenever this happens, I make at the very least to sop up any remaining wet ink (preferably rinsing it with water until completely clean), until it stops leaving ink on the section upon uncapping. Then it's fine again for a while, and then something happens to cause it to suddenly leak again. I suspect it's happening again because the ink is running low, which means more air in the chamber and more expansion in the heat. grack posted:The seals likely need to be lubricated/replaced. Even if you jostle it a lot a 2000 should not be dumping that much ink in the cap. Well, I've taken the pen apart a few times but have never lubricated it, so maybe that's my problem. Fortunately I've got some silicone lubricant handy from other little pen projects. Where are you supposed to lubricate it?
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Aug 24, 2019 06:07
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The piston head seals and the small o-ring in the section that mates to the body of the Piston assembly.
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Aug 24, 2019 06:09
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