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Slavvy posted:Why they then also have a side stand switch anyway is a loving mystery. I'm sure that making the clutch switch ignore neutral is to save a meter of loom wiring, since you can probably put it inline w/ the starter switch and don't need to route through the neutral sensor. EDIT: This was a good excuse to really read a wiring diagram for the first time!  A sv650 has a simple SPST clutch switch directly between the positive battery terminal and a leg of the starter relay: http://cycles.evanfell.com/2013/01/suzuki-sv650-wiring-diagram/ whereas my CB has a similar SPST but also involves a two-diode three-legged thing (labeled "Clutch Diode") with the center pole going to the grounded neutral switch / "Ignition Control Module" / sidestand switch, another leg going to the neutral lamp, and a third leg going to the starter relay. I can't tell whether this means that a burned out neutral lamp means my starter won't work. Overall I see why Suzuki keeps it simpler. EDIT2: I have convinced myself that a burned out lamp won't kill my starter, and instead the "Clutch Diode" is badly named and is serving dual function as "Clutch and Lamp Complexifier Module". EDIT3: I need to figure out where this thing exists on my bike so I can short it out in an emergency. Ulf fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Jan 21, 2020 |
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Jan 21, 2020 00:10
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That is a very Honda (but especially Yamaha) thing to do
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Jan 21, 2020 00:37
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:That is a very Honda (but especially Yamaha) thing to do I was gonna say that sounds Honda as gently caress and isn't representative of most side stand safety circuits at all.
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Jan 21, 2020 01:13
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Ulf posted:The side stand switch seems like a must-have IMO, I could absolutely see myself heading out w/ the sidestand down and highsiding on my next left turn. Yeah, this is true. One time on my old postie (the wiring was a miasma of terrible PO decisions, so no sidestand switch aparently) I forgot and basically bounced off it taking a corner at residental speeds. Didn't crash but it did spook me and got me in the habit of always explicitly checking, even on bikes that have them. I did bypass the sidestand switch and the neutral safety on my KLR - had the latter fail on me and leave me stranded, have read the sidestand also a known failure point. I check that it's up twice before I head out. Ideally I'd leave them both in place and functional but wire in some kind of manual bypass switch so I get the best of both worlds, but I feel like that's probably just introducing even more points of failure. I'm going to be installing a dash and am going to get a sticker printed up that basically warns me (and anyone else that gets on the bike) that both of those safety interlocks have been disabled and to always double check before starting. Here are a few questions I had related to that dash project: I have a 240W Electrosport high-output stator installed. I am going to add heated grips and a 12v outlet that will mostly be used for charging a phone, and running a small air compressor in a pinch. There will also be a 12V volt meter connected so I can keep an eye on the electrical system. I can't see myself ever needing to have both running at the same time, and figured I might as well not put undue load on the electrical system. My thinking is to use a SPDT On-Off-On switch that basically looks like this: code:
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Jan 21, 2020 02:02
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Are any British Columbian riders itt? What can you tell me about icbc insurance? From a cursory search it seems to be mainly based on displacement and experience and whatever liability - are there any other factors to consider? Is it a matter of staying out of the 750-1150cc range to avoid major boneage? Moving to BC later this year and hope to get a bike again in the fall.
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Jan 24, 2020 18:59
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Might be a bit too specific but I picked up a Yamaha mt-125 recently and holy hell the dashboard is bright to the point of making it difficult to see properly at nighttime due to the glare. Anyone have any ideas how to turn the brightness down? I've Googled and all that comes up are a few other questions asking the same thing with no answer, and there is nothing in the manual. Hell maybe there is no way to turn the brightness down but that seems like a ridiculous oversight.
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Jan 27, 2020 23:11
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Have you tried 1. Bike key in off position 2. Hold reset button 3. While continuing to hold reset button, bike key into on position. 4.Continue to hold for up to 5 seconds. If it worked you should get brightness settings which you can cycle through with select and then confirm with reset. Note though that this is based on a few of the bigger MTs. I've never seen it done on a 125 which I know is different. If I do this sequence on my fazer, however, it goes into diag mode so if you get any weirdness just ollie out of there by turning the key to off.
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Jan 27, 2020 23:43
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If that doesn't work just get something like this to stick over it.
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Jan 28, 2020 14:49
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Finally getting around to fitting the heated grips I've had lying in a box for the last five years, installation going much more easily than I thought because it turns out my existing grips weren't glued on (and the throttle tube on this bike is completely smooth). What kind of glue am I after for getting the new grips to not slip? Online instructions suggest "contact adhesive" but is there anything more specific I should be looking for/looking to avoid?
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Feb 16, 2020 12:43
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I just use some dabs of super glue, after the god drat crap supplied by the maker(oxford in my case) looses grip after like 6 months. This leads to grips that sloowly rotate on the throttle tube leading you to wonder why the hell your bike is suddenly down on power. I've had this happen on 3 bikes now.. Their grips and controller are very good, the glue is not.. There are specific grip glue, but that's more for off road bikes where you might wanna change grips more often due to wear and tear.
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Feb 16, 2020 14:32
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You can buy small tubes of adhesive specifically made for motorcycle grips, like this. I've also used hairspray, 3M spray-on contact adhesive, and another vendor's "grip glue" that I would've sworn was just a small tube of black RTV and all worked just fine.
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Feb 16, 2020 14:35
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Renaissance Robot posted:Finally getting around to fitting the heated grips I've had lying in a box for the last five years, installation going much more easily than I thought because it turns out my existing grips weren't glued on (and the throttle tube on this bike is completely smooth). For some reason a suggestion here of KY Jelly or other water-based personal lubricant being perfect for the job has stuck with me.
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Feb 16, 2020 15:29
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I go for two part adhesive like araldite. It takes a while to set, but when it does it's not going anywhere. Just be sure that, when you do it, you cover any parts of the motorcycle underneath the handlebars with something like a blanket or dust sheet. It's better to plan for the glue dripping than to try and stop it happening. Azza Bamboo fucked around with this message at 15:43 on Feb 16, 2020 |
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Feb 16, 2020 15:40
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Ended up using some kind of rubber cement, got'r did. If I'd known it'd be this painless I'd have done it a lot sooner. Not really sure what to do about the bar ends though:   (the stock grips have closed ends)
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Feb 16, 2020 15:48
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I find I usually have to trim the excess rubber off with a blade. Because these are heated grips, though, I'd check to see if there's a line or groove indicating a safety margin not to cut past. E: oh, I see. The problem with the bar ends isn't the excess rubber, it's the lack of a thread to mount them on. Ignore this, then.
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Feb 16, 2020 15:52
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Renaissance Robot posted:Ended up using some kind of rubber cement, got'r did. If I'd known it'd be this painless I'd have done it a lot sooner. You can get unthreaded, unweighted bar ends easily enough. If you want something a bit more trick, R&G do universal bar ends with an expanding insert.
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Feb 16, 2020 16:05
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Renaissance Robot posted:Ended up using some kind of rubber cement, got'r did. If I'd known it'd be this painless I'd have done it a lot sooner. If you've still got that rubber cement, you could probably pop that center bit of the old grip out with a punch and stick it into the hole on the end of the new grip with cement. Or, get a bunch of multicoloured ribbons from the craft store, stick them into a cork, et voila! 
Finger Prince fucked around with this message at 16:09 on Feb 16, 2020 |
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Feb 16, 2020 16:06
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goddamnedtwisto posted:You can get unthreaded, unweighted bar ends easily enough. If you want something a bit more trick, R&G do universal bar ends with an expanding insert. Oh no, I know about those, I can't use them here because these bars have some kind of thing welded inside the tube (that black thing on the left, and smaller black nub in the middle of the throttle tube on the right). I just meant cosmetically, what can I put over the ends of the grips to stop them looking gross. Finger Prince posted:If you've still got that rubber cement, you could probably pop that center bit of the old grip out with a punch and stick it into the hole on the end of the new grip with cement. Doesn't look like they pop out, it's a one piece moulding, but I'll see if I can maybe slice the ends off the old grips and stick them on the new ones.
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Feb 16, 2020 16:40
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Supradog posted:I just use some dabs of super glue, after the god drat crap supplied by the maker(oxford in my case) looses grip after like 6 months.
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Feb 16, 2020 20:16
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Chris Knight posted:Weird. My Oxford grip's glue worked fine. I think it's just super glue at the end of the day. I've had this happen on 2 bikes with the Oxford Original Glue(tm), changed to "normal" super glue after that.
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Feb 16, 2020 21:51
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Nobody else safety wires their grips?
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Feb 17, 2020 15:41
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That tends to be overkill for your average rider. A spritz of hairspray will stick your grips on pretty well
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Feb 17, 2020 16:04
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builds character posted:Nobody else safety wires their grips? on a dirt bike, yes. street bike, no
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Feb 17, 2020 16:18
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builds character posted:Nobody else safety wires their grips? I did it on my bandit, glue is useless IMO.
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Feb 17, 2020 19:54
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Say, um.... Does anyone here know anything about .... push lawn mowers? More specifically, how to get them working again if you didn't do any off-season pre-treating?
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Feb 23, 2020 20:29
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The Bananana posted:Say, um.... depends on a lot of little things but in general it's like anything else drain the gas, check and maybe change the oil, if you can get to it drain the carbs if you can't have some starting spray on hand, clean or change the air filter. pull the spark plug and check it, also a good time to spin the engine by hand and make sure nothing is in there and maybe get some oil sloshed around, prime it and go. it's a lawnmower engine and pushmowers especially are expected to be abused and have pretty loose tolerances. personally I'd probably do just gas, air filter, and checking the oil before trying to fire it up but I'm very lazy
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Feb 23, 2020 20:39
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the paradigm shift posted:depends on a lot of little things but in general it's like anything else drain the gas, check and maybe change the oil, if you can get to it drain the carbs if you can't have some starting spray on hand, clean or change the air filter. pull the spark plug and check it, also a good time to spin the engine by hand and make sure nothing is in there and maybe get some oil sloshed around, prime it and go. it's a lawnmower engine and pushmowers especially are expected to be abused and have pretty loose tolerances. personally I'd probably do just gas, air filter, and checking the oil before trying to fire it up but I'm very lazy Aye, appreciate it. Not to brag (its nothing to brag about) but my last mower went 10 years without a bit of maintenance, besides just adding more gas. And when it got replaced last year with the current one I have, i kept it, and I'm willing to bet if i put gas in that old poulan, it'd start right back up.
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Feb 23, 2020 20:48
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Is a GPS tracking device worth it for security? I trust my neighborhood not to steal my beat to poo poo KLR but I want a nice fancy street bike and my only options for practical parking at home are going to be fairly vulnerable. Seems like devices and plans are fairly affordable but do they work ok?
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Mar 7, 2020 07:37
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RadioPassive posted:Is a GPS tracking device worth it for security? I have them on both my bikes. Which I got because I’ve had multiple friends say they’ve recovered their bikes with them. I often get calls from them asking if my bike is fine, and it is, it’s just me shuffling them around in the garage to do something, so they’re definitely working and responsive. My insurance doesn’t seem to think they’re worthwhile as they make no difference to my premium. But ultimately it’s paying for peace of mind. I’m happy to take the theft-magnet supermoto into the city, I wouldn’t without it. Horse Clocks fucked around with this message at 09:11 on Mar 7, 2020 |
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Mar 7, 2020 09:03
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RadioPassive posted:Is a GPS tracking device worth it for security? Get a cover and always cover your bike. You can get a gps device too, but get a cover.
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Mar 7, 2020 14:15
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Imo the swiss cheese model applies to bike security. No single thing is going to stop your bike being stolen, but the more layers you add the less likely it is that all the holes will line up.
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Mar 7, 2020 16:13
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Oh, I'm familiar with bike security in general and I've had things stolen and not stolen over the years, I'm specifically just not knowledgeable in GPS tracking devices
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Mar 7, 2020 18:53
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Anyone have advice for sticking ignition cylinders? My Ninja 650's sticks pretty bad, usually it's a real pain in the rear end to get it to undo the steering lock and still difficult to turn it to on. It seems like it's maybe just gunked up but I'm not sure the best thing to try and use to clear it out and lubricate it.
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Mar 8, 2020 04:09
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Gay Nudist Dad posted:Anyone have advice for sticking ignition cylinders? My Ninja 650's sticks pretty bad, usually it's a real pain in the rear end to get it to undo the steering lock and still difficult to turn it to on. It seems like it's maybe just gunked up but I'm not sure the best thing to try and use to clear it out and lubricate it. GT85 works great for this. Basically any PTFE based aerosol lube (not WD40).
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Mar 8, 2020 05:13
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RadioPassive posted:Oh, I'm familiar with bike security in general and I've had things stolen and not stolen over the years, I'm specifically just not knowledgeable in GPS tracking devices Road Angel claim >95% recovery rate, but the point is they do literally nothing to stop the bike being stolen. So if it's a high-value bike likely to be targeted by professional thieves it's definitely worth it as the last line of defence along with physical security, ditto for small dirt bikes and other vehicles likely to be stolen and used for a while, but for something likely to be stolen just for a joyride all you're doing is complicating your insurance claim.
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Mar 8, 2020 10:27
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Steakandchips posted:GT85 works great for this. Basically any PTFE based aerosol lube (not WD40). Flush it through with penetrating oil (or the lightest oil you have to hand - lighter fluid would work but obviously be careful in application) first though, use the key to make sure it gets properly into the lock and then leave it a couple of hours to dry before applying silicone or PTFE lube. Someone will be along in a moment to suggest dry graphite lube but while that's great for door locks and other horizontally-mounted locks, it doesn't work as well with vertically-mounted locks that see water impingement.
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Mar 8, 2020 10:32
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Uh also graphite conducts electricity which is exactly what you don’t want all over in your ignition lock
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Mar 8, 2020 14:53
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I think in most ignition locks the tumbler itself and the electrical switch are fairly separate devices, for what it's worth. Depending on the design it's sometimes not too hard to separate the two.
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Mar 9, 2020 03:39
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I really need to squirt some GT in my seat lock, it's so stiff that last time I took the seat off the key came out with a noticeable twist in it, had to straighten it back out with a set of pliers
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Mar 9, 2020 16:09
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I think in most ignition locks the tumbler itself and the electrical switch are fairly separate devices, for what it's worth. Depending on the design it's sometimes not too hard to separate the two. This! At least in most older Hondas it is trivially simple. Just buy an aftermarket ignition (~$25), separate the wired part with the lock part on both ignitions (on a honda, it's 3 screws). Take the new lock cylinder and screw it to the old wired part already connected to the bike.
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Mar 9, 2020 17:13
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