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The Maxima Extra 10w60 stuff? I've heard the shear resistance is great, might have to see what wholesale cost is from parts unlimited I guess. I've pretty much always done Rotella T4 in the trucks and two stroke transmissions and T6 in four strokes.
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May 27, 2020 06:00
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If you're servicing bikes yourself do you write anything in the little book thing? Or just keep receipts? It's a bit lame but I worry about resale value if I don't have all the stamps in the book and everything entered onto Mr Honda's computer. At least the Honda servicing isn't as much of a rip-off as my Audi.
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May 27, 2020 10:01
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knox_harrington posted:If you're servicing bikes yourself do you write anything in the little book thing? Or just keep receipts? For a bike in warranty I'd probably get dealer services to help resale vaule, but for older bikes a google doc goes a very long way. Mostly because it's helpful to yourself to have stats over how long your consumables last.
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May 27, 2020 10:26
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I was keeping a rough log of work done on a notepad app on my phone, but haven't added to it since I switched phones... I should really reinstall that.
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May 27, 2020 10:38
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I just use a google sheet with tabs for each bike. Date, mileage and what was done. Misc useful info also, like what was the valve clearances, how long did the tires actually last, tire pressure, service interval Example in norwegian. 
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May 27, 2020 11:15
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Yerok posted:The Maxima Extra 10w60 stuff? I've heard the shear resistance is great, might have to see what wholesale cost is from parts unlimited I guess. I've pretty much always done Rotella T4 in the trucks and two stroke transmissions and T6 in four strokes. maxima pro-plus 10w-50 is what I personally use in my 1290 cause motorex is like $20+ more for a gallon or w/e. same ratings as motorex Supradog posted:I just use a google sheet with tabs for each bike. Date, mileage and what was done. this is what I do as well. I am neurotic though and even put stupid poo poo like when I oil my chain cause I know I'd oil it twice if I did remind myself that I literally just did it 
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May 27, 2020 13:08
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Supradog posted:I just use a google sheet with tabs for each bike. Date, mileage and what was done. Same.
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May 27, 2020 14:30
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Supradog posted:I just use a google sheet with tabs for each bike. Date, mileage and what was done. I do a spreadsheet keeping expenses, part numbers, vendors, etc and a corresponding maintenance log with details of the service, notes along the way, and follow up about how it’s working out. The last guy I sold a bike to was thrilled when he saw that.
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May 27, 2020 14:57
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This is a great idea. I just started a OneNote notebook for my bikes.
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May 27, 2020 15:08
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I just use paper because I don't want greasy keyboards. There's a clipboard up on the garage wall for each of my vehicles. I tell myself that the next owner will want and appreciate this, but they always shrug when I give it to them. In reality it's most useful for my own looking back, like "what was that oil that made the shifting feel kinda notchy?" and "which sparkplug was the one that looked slightly richer the last time I pulled them?"
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May 27, 2020 15:48
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right arm posted:for a first service I really recommend just changing your two filters and oil. service manual will state to "check" the screens, but oil change kits will run you ~$100 since they include replacement screens as well as oil and filters Yes the full change kits are expensive. However you can also just clean the screens and replace the o-rings in the plugs if necessary.
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May 27, 2020 15:52
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Ulf posted:I just use paper because I don't want greasy keyboards. Wipe your hands off before you use the keyboard, you monster!
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May 27, 2020 16:15
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High Protein posted:Yes the full change kits are expensive. However you can also just clean the screens and replace the o-rings in the plugs if necessary. correct, this is what I meant to convey! I just always see morons on advrider bitching about how much oil changes cost when the "kit" contains a bunch of poo poo you absolutely do not need to purchase
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May 27, 2020 16:26
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right arm posted:correct, this is what I meant to convey! I just always see morons on advrider bitching about how much oil changes cost when the "kit" contains a bunch of poo poo you absolutely do not need to purchase Yes and it's especially baffling that the full kit comes with two drain plugs for the screens (probably so dealers can just slap new ones on instead of replacing the o-rings), but does not include a crush washer for the sump drain plug.
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May 27, 2020 17:55
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Above advice aside, I’m taking my 650 in for its initial 1k next Thursday. Not for fear that I can’t do the work myself, but I’m going to use the opportunity to have them torque all the bolts on the exhaust properly with the right tools (my torque wrench didn’t fit up into a few areas so I had to guten tight a few bolts), and honestly just to give it a once over. After that I don’t think I’ll be taking it into a dealer again unless it needs major work I’m not prepared to do. I am having them put in the EZ-Drain valve instead of putting the OEM drain plug again so future oil changes will be even less messy, ideally.. At least not until I have to pop the filter. My biggest failure with self-servicing the 250 was my inability to get a good alignment on the rear tire after adjusting chain slack. I think I ultimately spent a few hours going back and forth tightening, re-tightening, adjusting, re-adjusting. I don’t know what’s “good enough” and what’s “critical” when it comes to rear alignment, but given that it’s one of two wheels keeping me from being a meat crayon I was very anxious about getting it right. When it comes to the 650, I might be gunshy about servicing the drivetrain until I get a good feeling on what tolerances are okay.
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May 27, 2020 18:41
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Martytoof posted:Above advice aside, I’m taking my 650 in for its initial 1k next Thursday. Not for fear that I can’t do the work myself, but I’m going to use the opportunity to have them torque all the bolts on the exhaust properly with the right tools (my torque wrench didn’t fit up into a few areas so I had to guten tight a few bolts), and honestly just to give it a once over. After that I don’t think I’ll be taking it into a dealer again unless it needs major work I’m not prepared to do. I am having them put in the EZ-Drain valve instead of putting the OEM drain plug again so future oil changes will be even less messy, ideally.. At least not until I have to pop the filter. loose is better than tight, and motion pro makes a cheap chain alignment tool that has worked well enough for me to get plenty of life out of my OEM chain: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GTVOJQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 really though as long as the chain is on the sprockets, the axle nut is tight, and the chain isn't comically loose / tight you'll be fine!
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May 27, 2020 18:50
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you have to work pretty hard to gently caress a chain up. my last one on the tuono lasted 20k miles with almost no maintenance, constant wheelies and i only changed it because i went to the mountains and could hear it slapping over my music one day. key is to buy a nice one. last and current set are 525 DID. was like 200 bucks for the chain and sprockets but it's worth it
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May 27, 2020 18:52
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Thanks. In my case I think I was also having some trouble keeping the wheel parallel with the line of the bike. Once I tightened the nut on one side it would go askew just slightly, giving me cause to start micro-adjusting again. But this is all for lack of practice. It’s just a catch 22 that I have to break — scared of wheel alignment because no experience, no experience because afraid to touch wheel. Once I do it a few more times I’m sure the nagging doubt will disappear, as with everything I’ve done on my bikes so far.
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May 27, 2020 18:53
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Martytoof posted:Thanks. In my case I think I was also having some trouble keeping the wheel parallel with the line of the bike. Once I tightened the nut on one side it would go askew just slightly, giving me cause to start micro-adjusting again. oh you'll be fine. that tool just helps you eyeball it correctly! what I typically do is get it straight with the adjusters and the tool fixed to the sprocket, then take a wrench, jam it between the sprocket and the chain while rotating the wheel so that it pulls the axle flush with the adjusters, then hand tighten the axle nut so that the adjustments you made won't change once you release the wheel. you can then remeasure, but everything should still be straight. after everything still looks straight with the tool, go ahead and torque the axle nut down to spec and you're golden
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May 27, 2020 19:03
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I had to tighten my chain like 3-4 times in the first 1000mi. I just checked it yesterday and it’s fine, and I don’t think I’ve tightened it in almost 2000mi now. It was shockingly loose when I checked at 400mi so maybe it was never quite right in the first place. I have been cleaning and lubing it, which probably helps.
Toe Rag fucked around with this message at 19:10 on May 27, 2020 |
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May 27, 2020 19:05
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Disclaimer: I have adjusted my chain maybe 4 times. This method twice, someone more experienced than me, Please tell me this is wrong. I’ve found taking a pair of callipers to the adjustment nut is the “quick” way to do it. Adjust the chain side first, then tighten it up so it’s not slipping. Then measure the adjustment length with calipers and tighten the calipers up. Then take the calipers to the other side and adjust it so it’s the same length. Check chain and tighten everything up. From an eyeball inspection down the length of the chain it’s been straight. Certainly straighter than trying to use the stupid measuring marks stamped into the swing arm.
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May 27, 2020 19:16
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whatever floats your boat, but counting notches on the swingarm has never steered me wrong and takes approximately 10 seconds per side
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May 27, 2020 19:21
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Yeah you can get the laser aligners, do the string method and all that but I think the average rider would be very hard pressed to notice minor alignment issues on the street
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May 27, 2020 20:01
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Martytoof posted:Above advice aside, I’m taking my 650 in for its initial 1k next Thursday. Not for fear that I can’t do the work myself, but I’m going to use the opportunity to have them torque all the bolts on the exhaust properly with the right tools (my torque wrench didn’t fit up into a few areas so I had to guten tight a few bolts), and honestly just to give it a once over. Never ever trust a mechanic to torque anything right because they just won't do it. They're never going to use a torque wrench to set things according to the manual, they'll just hand crank it to whatever they think is correct and you'll be extremely lucky if you've found the one mechanic in your country who won't overtighten things just to make sure they won't fall out.
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May 27, 2020 20:29
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Oh, well I already did that myself probably so 
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May 27, 2020 20:35
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Alternative to chain alignment tools: realize that if your rear wheel is out of alignment far enough, YOU DRIFT EVERYWHERE. YEEEEAAAAAH!!!!! Pull over and reverse the angle when you come up to a turn that goes the opposite direction.
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May 27, 2020 22:03
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Is this the thread to ask about repair questions? I am having an issue with a 2007 Triumph Bonneville T100 leaking fuel. I haven't done much riding this year, so I took my bike out for the first time in about a month, and it started up fine and I rode to my destination and got most of the way there only to realize that in a fit of quarantine brain I had set the fuel key to reserve instead of on, and my engine died at a stoplight. I pulled off and checked the fuel key, found it was in the wrong position, turned it to on and waited a few minutes and it started up fine, rode to the nearby gas station and filled my tank, just to be sure. I was basically at the dentist's office by that point so I rode it over there, left about an hour later, and everything was still fine. Parked it in the garage and my roommate complained of a gas smell about 30-40 minutes later. Went out to find a pool of gas on the garage floor and gasoline dripping from beneath the plastic cover under the seat, and apparently in my dipshittery I had accidentally flipped the fuel key onto reserve again instead of off - I just got this bike pretty recently and the fuel key is oriented completely backwards from the Honda I had before, and my muscle memory is not working with me. I turned the fuel key to off and the leak stopped almost immediately. I rinsed the bike off and checked again for fuel after letting it sit for about half an hour and get dry, and found nothing. Tried starting it with the fuel key off and got nothing, but when I turned it to on I also couldn't start it, and after a minute I saw fuel absolutely pouring out from under the air filters on both sides. Turning the fuel key off stopped it, and I removed the air filter on one side and turned the fuel key on to see if it would continue. It leaked out just a little bit but stopped, so I left the fuel key on for about 15 minutes, got on the bike and rocked it around, but had no further leaks until I got on and tried to start it, and after a minute it was pouring out again from both sides. I've got to leave for work soon so I've put it up for the time being after reattaching everything. Is it okay to let it sit overnight? There's still fuel in the tank, so should I try starting it again tomorrow? It seems to be feeding way too much fuel, or something, but I'll be honest I'm not super mechanically inclined and I'm not sure where to begin with this. My guesses from cursory research is that the petcock assemblies on these bikes are prone to being poo poo, but I'm not sure if I just flooded something from being an absent-minded dumbass and just need to wait for some gas to evaporate off, or if I need to flush it out, or if I need to try and replace the fuel lines.
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May 27, 2020 22:53
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Heath posted:Is this the thread to ask about repair questions? I am having an issue with a 2007 Triumph Bonneville T100 leaking fuel. Yes, definitely the right thread. Does it look like this? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Triumph-Bonneville-Fuel-Petcocks-Tap-Assy-Mikuni-Corp-Part-Number-T2400150-/133156123188 Most bikes have On, Reserve and Prime. Fuel can flow in all positions, but only on prime will it run when the engine is off. What you describe sounds typical of leaving it on prime and the carb float valves failing to seal. I've left mine on prime many times and all four carbs stemmed the tide like champs. But since yours doesn't seem to have prime, it probably isn't that, but it's worth double checking. It seems basically to be broken. Going by a cursory google, it seems to be a known issue as well. Perhaps setting it to reserve tore open some lurking issue and now you have some shopping to do. There's probably more reliable aftermarket ones.
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May 27, 2020 23:05
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Yes, that's the one. That's what I've been turning up as well. I don't have time to attend to it tonight, is it okay to sit? I've parked it outside of the garage and covered it for tonight so it doesn't choke us all to death if it leaks some more.
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May 27, 2020 23:13
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Firstly, acceptable terms are petcock and fuel tap, 'fuel key' sounds like something a person with a cowboy hat and f250 dreamt up. As to your problem: even if the petcock is completely busted and just constantly wide open, you aren't likely to experience much (if any) problems. The issue is almost certainly the float valves in the carbs or something connected to them. Typically letting the bike sit without draining the carbs can make everything gum up and keep the floats forced open, or cause the o-rings around the float valve seats to leak. The result is the same: the carbs aren't able to block out the fuel coming down from the tank, so the float bowls (which are open to atmosphere for reasons) overflow out of either end. If there's petrol gushing out of the air filters, it is also gushing out the other end and pouring straight into the engine. You need to verify if fuel is coming out of the petcock when the bike is switched off. If it is, congratulations your engine is now mostly filled with petrol so you have to change the oil, change your plugs, then drain your carbs and work out what the problem is - quite likely just floats that are a bit stuck. If no fuel comes out when the bike is off, good - it means you have a vacuum tap that is functioning correctly (obviously you need to have fuel in the tank to test this). In that case you just need to take the plugs out and turn the motor over to expel the excess petrol, probably replace the plugs, then investigate the carbs. A good test is to drain them, then try rapping on the bowls with a screwdriver handle while they're leaking and see if the leak stops, then you know it's just a sticky grubby float and nothing is actually broken and leaking. If changing the oil or draining the carbs sounds too daunting, your choices are either take it to someone who knows that the gently caress or start curating a YouTube tutorial playlist to watch for a week or so, before coming back here and asking a million questions then muddling through. It isn't very hard but you do need some tools and some kind of practical intelligence, people on this forum can be immensely helpful, showing up with pictures and a specific problem gets you a lot further.
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May 27, 2020 23:15
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When I took the filter off and left the petcock in the on position, I was able to get on and rock it around a bit and no fuel came out from there. It wasn't until I tried starting it that it began to leak again.
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May 27, 2020 23:21
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Ok so you have a vacuum tap that is working correctly, unless it's gushing out of the vacuum section of the tap (unlikely but easy to see if it is, just look at the tap body) your problem is downstream somewhere. Inspect the fuel line running to the carbs, if that's intact you're taking the carbs out. The good news is your crank case doesn't have 15L worth of petrol in it!
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May 27, 2020 23:26
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Slavvy posted:Ok so you have a vacuum tap that is working correctly, unless it's gushing out of the vacuum section of the tap (unlikely but easy to see if it is, just look at the tap body) your problem is downstream somewhere. Inspect the fuel line running to the carbs, if that's intact you're taking the carbs out. The good news is your crank case doesn't have 15L worth of petrol in it! 1. That’s good news. 2. Listen to Slavvy, he is wise.
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May 28, 2020 00:08
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Slavvy posted:Firstly, acceptable terms are petcock and fuel tap, my honda 350 manual calls it a fuel cock.
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May 28, 2020 00:47
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My MSF instructor listed all those names but mostly called it the fuel key. Maybe it's regional?
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May 28, 2020 00:53
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Noticed a pretty loud whine from the rear of the strom, its a wheel bearing going, right? Or anything else i should check? Its most noticeable when im going 70kmh and 100kmh, anywhere else its either not loud or i cant hear it at all.
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May 28, 2020 01:34
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TURN THE GAS DICK TO RESERVE
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May 28, 2020 02:12
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:TURN THE GAS DICK TO RESERVE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1E1VY4KOghI
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May 28, 2020 02:20
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Pet rooster?
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May 28, 2020 02:33
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Cock knob for passing gas
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May 28, 2020 02:39
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