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*BEST (ABEST, EBEST, etc.) are the cheap Chinese junk brands that litter Amazon with the same product but with like 5 different brands. From my experience with other stuff like that I wouldn't trust the brushes to not scratch up poo poo.
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Aug 1, 2020 22:24
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:For a only $16 bucks, seems like a steal. Spray jar and a nozzle reamer are super useful tools. 'Only' $17 but that adds up fast when you're buying everything else. Especially if you then plan on going and getting some Air-line paints. I'm still waiting on my replacement air regulator so I haven't done any airbrushing yet, but I've been watching a poo poo ton of this dude's videos after someone linked me this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yEIJs1c4bsQ He really seems to know what he's doing, so I'm fairly convinced those cleaning pots are kinda superfluous; I'd rather get a handful of paints or some basing materials or maybe even a cheap character model with that money. $8 more and you've a Myphitic Blight Hauler! Also after some discussion earlier in the thread about priming via airbrush, I'm a little confused. I was planning on priming my Death Guard white with the Liquitex White Ink I bought, then just brush on various shades of whites and greens on top of that. Will that work?
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Aug 1, 2020 22:31
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Never use wire brushes to clean out your airbrush, they will only make the problem worse in the future as they remove the smooth finish that helps prevent paint sticking. If you get dried paint in an area you cannot reach with paper towel, get some interdental brushes as they are entirely plastic and cannot scratch anything.Sab669 posted:Also after some discussion earlier in the thread about priming via airbrush, I'm a little confused. I was planning on priming my Death Guard white with the Liquitex White Ink I bought, then just brush on various shades of whites and greens on top of that. Will that work? Primer has a very different makeup compared to standard paint or ink which allows it to adhere better to smooth surfaces. You CAN use normal paint as a primer, but it's just not going to stick as well and might randomly scrape off at the slightest touch. Pick up a bottle of Stynylrez Black, then zenithal your white ink over that for instant shading and a wonderful starting point for your painting. Cinara fucked around with this message at 22:35 on Aug 1, 2020 |
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Aug 1, 2020 22:32
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the pot is nice as an airbrush holder if nothing else, I use mine every time
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Aug 1, 2020 22:35
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Cinara posted:Pick up a bottle of Stynylrez Black, then zenithal your white ink over that for instant shading and a wonderful starting point for your painting. Black's out of stock on Amazon, gray it is  I was never a fan of priming black anyways, it darkens everything so much. I assume still add a little Flow Improver to this stuff?
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Aug 1, 2020 22:47
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Eej posted:*BEST (ABEST, EBEST, etc.) are the cheap Chinese junk brands that litter Amazon with the same product but with like 5 different brands. From my experience with other stuff like that I wouldn't trust the brushes to not scratch up poo poo. It's the exact same spray jar that the big companies buy and just slap their name on.
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Aug 1, 2020 22:47
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Yeah a jar's a jar I was speaking more to the stuff that'll be poking delicate parts* *not an innuendo e: derp mixed up replies Eej fucked around with this message at 23:03 on Aug 1, 2020 |
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Aug 1, 2020 22:57
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Cinara posted:Never use wire brushes to clean out your airbrush, they will only make the problem worse in the future as they remove the smooth finish that helps prevent paint sticking. If you get dried paint in an area you cannot reach with paper towel, get some interdental brushes as they are entirely plastic and cannot scratch anything. Booyah- posted:the pot is nice as an airbrush holder if nothing else, I use mine every time I just swapped it out for this listing, which is just the pot on it's own for about $5 less. We have some narrow brushes that aren't metal wire (maybe the actual stem is, have to check), but the bristles are plastic. Still haven't order anything but the airbrush at this point. The one thing I'm trying to figure out is the need for a spraybooth. A quick search online shows that you can make a spray booth for cheap rather than buying one, but I think with a lot of them, the idea is setting it up so you can ventilate it out the window, and I don't know how that would work for me. I'd be doing it out in the shed, and the only opening is the door, so I'd have to feed it from the side of the room over to the door, which would be really awkward. Sab669 posted:Black's out of stock on Amazon, gray it is https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-B...ps%2C222&sr=8-1 
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Aug 1, 2020 23:00
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Paragon8 posted:If you can get your hands on Ammo by mig products they've relabelled Stynylrez with "one-shot" primer. Oh, good to know, thanks a lot!
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Aug 1, 2020 23:25
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So in my various testing of making some ice bases, I think I need to pick up an actual two part resin. I've been trying out the Woodland Scenics Realistic Water that I already had which works wonderfully for actual water, but on ice it just doesn't cure hard enough or flat enough. Because it's so thin, it creeps up the edge of anything I try to submerge into it, which would be fine on a much larger piece but ends up ruining the effect on a 32mm base. Plus I can't cut into it to create cracks, because it just flexes and bends and practically reseals my cuts. Still have a couple that turned out ok that and need to refine further, will get some pictures of them once everything is finished drying.
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Aug 1, 2020 23:48
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Cinara posted:So in my various testing of making some ice bases, I think I need to pick up an actual two part resin. I've been trying out the Woodland Scenics Realistic Water that I already had which works wonderfully for actual water, but on ice it just doesn't cure hard enough or flat enough. Because it's so thin, it creeps up the edge of anything I try to submerge into it, which would be fine on a much larger piece but ends up ruining the effect on a 32mm base. Plus I can't cut into it to create cracks, because it just flexes and bends and practically reseals my cuts. Check out instant cure resin. You can put it wherever you need it and then shine a UV torch at it to make it harden instantly. You can buy GSW branded stuff but I recommend getting generic for much cheaper. I specifically bought this one: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07KK37R42/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XpFjFbXRESKEH It works great for ice bases, especially icicles. You can also buy model train boulder molds and make large glacial ice pieces. Squidmar did a video on the stuff and used that technique and it came out really cool.
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Aug 2, 2020 00:02
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So in trying to figure out what converter I need to get for the Badger, I found this video on how you can modify a shop compressor with a moisture trap filter and connectors to make it work with an airbrush. We have that kind of compressor already, so I thought about trying this first before buying another compressor. However, now I need to figure out what kind of hose/adapter I need. I found this one on Amazon, but I'm not sure if it comes with the proper adapter.
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Aug 2, 2020 00:07
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Goofy question, are the tips on the vallejo dropper bottles removeable? I just want to put a bead in there to help shake the paint but don't want to break anything
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Aug 2, 2020 00:09
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Oh I really like that idea with the boulder molds! I even already have some of those and will have to give that a try for sure. The instant cure resin seems like it might be the way to go for smaller scale stuff like bases, especially the 32mm ones. For stuff like dreads or titans a real resin may still be better but I won't be doing any of those until I have a process I am happy with.Spanish Manlove posted:Goofy question, are the tips on the vallejo dropper bottles removeable? I just want to put a bead in there to help shake the paint but don't want to break anything Yea the tip just pulls out.
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Aug 2, 2020 00:11
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Spanish Manlove posted:Goofy question, are the tips on the vallejo dropper bottles removeable? I just want to put a bead in there to help shake the paint but don't want to break anything
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Aug 2, 2020 00:46
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jesus WEP posted:Can you just dump all the parts of an airbrush into a ultrasonic bath? That would be an amazing effort-saver if that’s an option Yes. keep the needle out. Break the brush down into a few parts and watch your 'clean' airbrush cough up a bunch of crap you couldn't see.
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Aug 2, 2020 00:51
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Cinara posted:Yea the tip just pulls out. awesome, thanks
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Aug 2, 2020 01:45
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Max Wilco posted:So in trying to figure out what converter I need to get for the Badger, I found this video on how you can modify a shop compressor with a moisture trap filter and connectors to make it work with an airbrush. We have that kind of compressor already, so I thought about trying this first before buying another compressor. What I did was take my hose and the compressor connection to the local Home Depot, in the plumbing dept they have a board with all kinds of threaded connectors on it, I figured out what I needed on each end then found an adapter that matched both. It was like 4$.
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Aug 2, 2020 01:48
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 I was thinking I'd experiment with pre-shading by darkening specific regions, rather than black-grey-white zenithyl so I don't want to wait another week+ after already having this airbrush setback.
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Aug 2, 2020 01:50
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Thundrik's Profiteers finished! I wish I had thought to give them hats before I got the other two painted, but I don't really want to do surgery on a painted mini.  
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Aug 2, 2020 02:51
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Magnets I've been using are too small and weak to hold warjack limbs. Gotta dig them out and replace em. That's a bummer
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Aug 2, 2020 03:47
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Bucnasti posted:What I did was take my hose and the compressor connection to the local Home Depot, in the plumbing dept they have a board with all kinds of threaded connectors on it, I figured out what I needed on each end then found an adapter that matched both. It was like 4$. Do you think I could find the hose at Home Depot as well, or would I need to order that online? I'm sorry I'm asking about every single aspect of this. Today's been kind of stressful for various reasons, and impulsively buying the airbrush added to that.
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Aug 2, 2020 05:04
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Hope you guys don't mind I keep X-Posting.Alokgen posted:I finished another Indomitus Necron.
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Aug 2, 2020 07:00
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I'm going back and basing some dwarves I've been painting for aos, is there a good method for basing finished minis? They're pretty low and wide so there's not much space to work on the base, am I better of just breaking them off and redoing the base?
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Aug 2, 2020 07:07
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Alokgen posted:Hope you guys don't mind I keep X-Posting. Im cross about how good this model looks. Salt weathering? How did you get that subtle rust in there?
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Aug 2, 2020 07:22
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DiHK posted:Im cross about how good this model looks.
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Aug 2, 2020 07:24
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Vulpes Vulpes posted:Thundrik's Profiteers finished! I wish I had thought to give them hats before I got the other two painted, but I don't really want to do surgery on a painted mini.
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Aug 2, 2020 07:37
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Slaanesh and Tzeentch had a bit of a tiff the other day.
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Aug 2, 2020 09:03
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i did not need to spend a billion hours lovingly detailing tiny freehand lightning bolts on these already extremely elaborate models but i did anyway      
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Aug 2, 2020 10:51
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GIRL BRAINS posted:I'm going back and basing some dwarves I've been painting for aos, is there a good method for basing finished minis? They're pretty low and wide so there's not much space to work on the base, am I better of just breaking them off and redoing the base? Depends what you want to do with the base tbh. If you are just putting down flock or sand (or static grass or whatever) then I probably wouldnt bother taking them off, just be careful putting on the glue that you dont end up with it halfway up their ankles (and if you are painting your base covering be very careful around the feet, although if they get a little base colouring on them its not the end of the world, they are after all walking through that base). If they already take up most of the space you probably dont have much room for anything else other than maybe a small rock or skull. If you are putting down a texture paste of some description you are probably better off taking them off the base depending how thick you are applying it, both to avoid getting it on the mini and to avoid looking like they are sinking into it when its around their feet. If you are wanting to do something elaborate with the base then yeah, better taking them off the base to do it. Sliding a thin blade between foot and base is better than breaking them off to avoid snapping them at the ankle and leaving the feet still on the base (although with dwarves you are probably okay they tend to have sturdy limbs). Be careful the model doesnt go flying when you do this, I usually cut downwards onto my cutting mat with a folded paper towel round the miniature to "catch" it.
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Aug 2, 2020 11:25
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Thanqol posted:i did not need to spend a billion hours lovingly detailing tiny freehand lightning bolts on these already extremely elaborate models but i did anyway That picture is really really good. There's a "300" vibe to it.
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Aug 2, 2020 17:29
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I put my commander on a proper sized base by just gluing it to a new one, and then painted up a cyclic ion blaster to be as WYSIWYG as possible. Can't wait to run a farsight enclave list with this guy
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Aug 2, 2020 19:47
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No, of course I didnt go out on a non-essential shopping trip for the first time in 11 weeks, impulse purchase Hexwraith Glow and move certain models to the top of the unpainted pile just as an excuse to try it out. Why would you think that? Anyway on an unrelated note, this week I painted some Wizz Bang crew models for Malifaux. The Lightning Bugs (all contrast apart from the Hexwraith Glow)  Their Boss, Wong, and his lovely assistant Olivia Bernard (again, all contrast apart from a little metallic)  Sammy LaCroix, who wasnt in the same ebay lot but can work with them so might as well get him done too. Mostly but not entirely contrast. I built a slight slope into the base where he would be standing when basing him because otherwise he's so stooped over that none of his face is visible at all. 
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Aug 2, 2020 22:43
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Hey folx, I've got this mint green shaltari fleet I'm painting and I'm just curious about what the best way to go about washing it is? I don't want the wash to look too dirty and grey and I don't want it to look too vivid and green, so I'm a bit lost.
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Aug 3, 2020 04:40
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   Pas'oriel, the demonic patron of the Seven Scribes despises them for what they have done to her. Once she was sleek, magnificent, wondrous - the fairest servant of the Changer of Ways. Cast into Grandfather Nurgle's pot alongside her Alpha Legion wards, she no longer resembles her once-fair self. So she furiously garbs herself with gold and gemstones, adorning her corpulent and diseased flesh like a magpie bejewelling its nest. She holds the warband personally responsible for her state, but as the Alpha Legion are proud so is she - and the Scribes can usually talk her over with great flattery and offerings of wealth. The Seven Scribes as a result of their relationship with this daemon frequently send agents to perform bank heists or rid noble spires - a practice that occasionally causes them to neglect their true objectives, and once has had them censured by the Warmaster.
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Aug 3, 2020 05:19
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Toalpaz posted:Hey folx, I've got this mint green shaltari fleet I'm painting and I'm just curious about what the best way to go about washing it is? I don't want the wash to look too dirty and grey and I don't want it to look too vivid and green, so I'm a bit lost. I am far from an expert but I wonder if contrast apothecary white thinned with contrast medium 2:1 or maybe 1:1 could work here? Interested to hear what smarter peeps than I have to say.
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Aug 3, 2020 05:31
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Crossposting from the 40K thread: JackMann posted:For my birthday, I treated myself to a Contemptor Dreadnought.
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Aug 3, 2020 05:47
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Cross-postin' this Stone Golem from the Oath thread. This is one of the few Bones minis that didn't annoy me with really soft / mushy details, mainly because it's just blocky rear end hell and has no little fiddly bits. Never tried any kind of lava effect before and I'm not totally happy with it - I think it's mostly an issue of the luminosity / saturation not look right, so maybe I need to play around with fluorescent paints next time? 
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Aug 3, 2020 05:49
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Thanks, I tried going with just glue but it would bunch up too much around the feet, I just ended using a thing exacto knife to separate them from their bases.
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Aug 3, 2020 07:10
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:Cross-postin' this Stone Golem from the Oath thread. This is one of the few Bones minis that didn't annoy me with really soft / mushy details, mainly because it's just blocky rear end hell and has no little fiddly bits. Never tried any kind of lava effect before and I'm not totally happy with it - I think it's mostly an issue of the luminosity / saturation not look right, so maybe I need to play around with fluorescent paints next time? I'd say you need the glow to extend into the panels a little more and go further into the oranges/reds with it when you do. It looks like it's hot in between the panels but it doesn't look like it's molten UNDER the panels as much because the panels themselves don't look much like they're heating up. I'd also probably make them darker, just because contrast will sell the illusion better.
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Aug 3, 2020 16:10
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