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Strife posted:It sounds like a dishwasher full of tambourines in that video but I’m not sure how an engine failing to turn over is going to sound appealing. But lol if a carbureted KTM is going to be less maintenance than a modern EFI bike, electrical problem included. The amount of effort it seems to take most posters just to tighten/loosen a single screw properly puts me off ever wanting to deal with a carburetor. It ran for about half a second which is what I'm calling out. No bike with hydro tensioners sounds good while cranking. Oh the old poo poo comes with a maintenance price, and its very much dependent on the owner for the experience. Nothing runs forever on neglect unless its a KLR. I absolutely pay for the maintenance privilege of owning a nearly 20 year old ktm LC8. Do I mind? nope. I rather enjoy it. Its enjoyable to work on, its enjoyable to beat like a lovely rental. Slavvy posted:It isn't about 'figuring it out' it's that having a separate transmission and primary have real value that isn't immediately apparent, especially in drag racing. A quick-change gearbox makes all the difference in those stoplight drags to the bar. Yeah, they have actual tangible uses for flat-track/drag racing. I have never seen a typical American HOG owner do either of these things outside of "racing" to the closest bar. That duc is miles better than any piece of poo poo lc4. I'd never own one of those loving bikes. I'll argue otherwise for the lc8. I agree for carbs. They're not for most as they're mysterious boxes of hate, akin to efi. The difference is efi typically doesn't ever go wrong from neglect, abuse, or otherwise just getting miled to death. Sometimes a division by zero knocks em down but that problem is nearly 20 years ago. I can't hate a well tuned carb or efi system. That notchy lovely emissions leaning out bullshit that both fuel delivery systems are guilty of? off in the bin with it.
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Jun 7, 2021 01:11
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Slavvy posted:Just apply light brake pressure when you crack it, keep the brake pressurized until you've tightened it back up. If you're smooth and fast you can do it in one sweep of the brake lever, as long as you maintain pressure until the banjo's tightened, there's no way of air getting in. You might even bleed some out doing this. Thanks, I’ll give it a try tomorrow or next weekend, depending on when I have more time to do it methodically without rushing. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 02:46 on Jun 7, 2021 |
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Jun 7, 2021 02:44
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Finger Prince posted:Complete pulled out of my rear end guess? So guess what just happened? Not a bog in Norfolk but a Sainsbury's in Essex, but yeah the fucker has just died on me. At least I'm getting my money's worth it of the rac membership
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Jun 7, 2021 13:20
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What was the issue then?
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Jun 7, 2021 13:22
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Steakandchips posted:What was the issue then? Who loving knows, I'm just waiting for the truck and laughing bitterly to myself
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Jun 7, 2021 13:47
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Who loving knows, I'm just waiting for the truck and laughing bitterly to myself Is an Essex Sainsbury's safer than a Norfolk bog? 
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Jun 7, 2021 14:25
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Ola posted:Is an Essex Sainsbury's safer than a Norfolk bog? Probably not but it has considerable better food and marginally better toilets than some random patch of swamp. A+ would luckily happen to break down nearby again (like I have a choice). The more I think about it the more convinced I am it's actually just a loose connection causing intermittent electrical faults (and that this might have been my actual issue before) but at this point I'm just dumping it on the garage to sort out - it's overdue a service anyway.
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Jun 7, 2021 14:59
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Slavvy posted:Just apply light brake pressure when you crack it, keep the brake pressurized until you've tightened it back up. If you're smooth and fast you can do it in one sweep of the brake lever, as long as you maintain pressure until the banjo's tightened, there's no way of air getting in. You might even bleed some out doing this. This actually worked really well, thanks. Quick change and I adjusted everything down. Took the bike out afterwards and did some slamma jamam brake lines and no real difference in feel from before. Service manual says 18ft lbs for the brake hose banjo bolts but holy poo poo did that feel sketchy as poo poo. I chickened out at 16 because it felt so close to starting to strip. I'm going to hope that those 2ft lbs don't mean I'm dead on the side of a highway in a week I guess.
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Jun 7, 2021 17:49
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Martytoof posted:Service manual says 18ft lbs for the brake hose banjo bolts but holy poo poo did that feel sketchy as poo poo. I chickened out at 16 because it felt so close to starting to strip. I'm going to hope that those 2ft lbs don't mean I'm dead on the side of a highway in a week I guess. It won't but you should be able to apply 15ish ft/lbs with a normal size ratchet without too much grunt. If you were using a long torque wrench and applying a bunch of force I think your wrench is off. I generally only use a torque wrench on an axle nut to make sure I have a minimum tightness or on car lug nuts to make sure the pressure on them is even.
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Jun 7, 2021 18:34
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I was using a digital torque wrench adapter on a ratchet and I'd previously tested it fairly accurately against a mechanical wrench but it could just have been a gut feeling that was entirely unwarranted. I'd also stripped a handful of bolts unrelated to my motorcycle recently so I'm very very gun shy about the whole thing
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Jun 7, 2021 18:38
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Banjos are great for elbow torque because it's the deformation of the washer that makes the joint, not the stretch of the bolt. You can see or feel that, if you know how it works. I've never used a torque wrench on banjos. Stuff that depends on bolt stretch to contain pressure, such as cylinder heads, is a different matter.
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Jun 7, 2021 18:54
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I forgot about the crush washer. Maybe that's what I was feeling give way. I also added a mark to my banjo so I can see at a glance if it moves. Hopefully I remember to check it every now and then.
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Jun 7, 2021 19:33
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Martytoof posted:I forgot about the crush washer. Maybe that's what I was feeling give way. paint pens are how I keep myself sane that I actually torqued important poo poo correctly since I do 100% of my own work lol
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Jun 7, 2021 22:26
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right arm posted:paint pens are how I keep myself sane that I actually torqued important poo poo correctly since I do 100% of my own work lol Same, but spare bolts.
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Jun 8, 2021 22:55
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Strife posted:It sounds like a dishwasher full of tambourines in that video but I’m not sure how an engine failing to turn over is going to sound appealing. But lol if a carbureted KTM is going to be less maintenance than a modern EFI bike, electrical problem included. The amount of effort it seems to take most posters just to tighten/loosen a single screw properly puts me off ever wanting to deal with a carburetor. I gotta give a lot of credit to the PO who replaced all the JIS screws on mine with stainless Allen heads, it made disassembling and cleaning the carbs far less stressful than getting them into/out of the bike. Thoroughly recommend if you have carbs.
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Jun 9, 2021 00:09
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Phy posted:I gotta give a lot of credit to the PO who replaced all the JIS screws on mine with stainless Allen heads, it made disassembling and cleaning the carbs far less stressful than getting them into/out of the bike. Thoroughly recommend if you have carbs. Did this myself. This is a big brain move. *Pats self on back*
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Jun 9, 2021 08:30
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Short version: I checked the oil level in my bike and part of the plastic dipstick broke off in the case.  Long version: I drive a '81 Honda CB900 F2 Bol d'Or. When checking the oil level, the last part of the plastic dipstick broke off in the engine (the piece is about 1 cm long and 3-4 mm wide). Don't know how that happened as I just unscrewed it, cleaned it and screwed it back in, and when I took it out the last part was missing (https://hondanuts.com/Dipstick-Honda-CB750F-CB900F-CB1100F-P5261543.aspx, the crosshatched part). Luckily I was already home so I wasn't stranded somewhere. I looked down the oil fill tube but couldn't see it. I then drained the oil hoping it might come out, but no luck. I then filled and drained the oil three more times hoping the flush it out, but nothing. I haven't started the bike yet. How screwed am I?
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Jun 11, 2021 07:07
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Replace your dipstick and don't think about it, you'll be fine.
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Jun 11, 2021 07:14
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When I had an XT350, which is kickstart-only, there's supposedly some kind of plate inside the engine which, when you kick through, stops the kickstarter from hitting the footpeg on the downstroke. Eventually, I was just smashing that footpeg. Seems like this plate can break off and just lounge at the bottom of the sump forever. Didn't notice any adverse affects.
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Jun 11, 2021 13:57
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sixth and maimed posted:Short version: I checked the oil level in my bike and part of the plastic dipstick broke off in the case. Not very I think. There are nooks and crannies everywhere, it will probably sit there just fine. Going by GIS, it looks like the dipstick sits just inside the rider's left leg, into the gearbox area, is that right?
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Jun 11, 2021 16:28
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Ola posted:Not very I think. There are nooks and crannies everywhere, it will probably sit there just fine. Going by GIS, it looks like the dipstick sits just inside the rider's left leg, into the gearbox area, is that right? That is correct. It's also straight down which made it very hard to look into the fill tube to check if I could see anything. Thanks for the feedback, everybody; I'm a bit relieved. Still, I'll probably spend the next 100 kilometers listening and analyzing if I hear or feel anything strange because that's how I roll. 
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Jun 11, 2021 19:03
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Slide Hammer posted:When I had an XT350, which is kickstart-only, there's supposedly some kind of plate inside the engine which, when you kick through, stops the kickstarter from hitting the footpeg on the downstroke. Eventually, I was just smashing that footpeg. Seems like this plate can break off and just lounge at the bottom of the sump forever. Didn't notice any adverse affects. A big chunk like that is really safe unless it bounces up between the gears. sixth and maimed posted:That is correct. It's also straight down which made it very hard to look into the fill tube to check if I could see anything. Everything inside the engine that spins is hardened steel that will utterly vaporize a little chunk of brittle plastic. The oil pump has a screen that an object that large will never get through; if it gets crushed by the gears or whatever, the plastic chunks will be caught by the oil filter and won't have a chance to do any damage downstream.
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Jun 11, 2021 19:12
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Thoughts on either of these lifts? https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-steel-motorcycle-lift-68892.html https://www.harborfreight.com/high-position-motorcycle-lift-99887.html I had always planned on getting one in the style of the first link, but the second is cheaper and takes up less room. It seems like the second wouldn't be great for fully faired bikes though as unless I'm missing something I don't think you could remove the lower fairings with your bike on the lift. And being able to remove the lower fairings without getting on the ground would be a big reason for buying a lift.
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Jun 13, 2021 08:45
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MomJeans420 posted:Thoughts on either of these lifts? Yeah different purpose between those two. The 2nd one just won't work with most sportbikes or anything that has bodywork or exhaust along the bottom. They're excellent for anything with a cradle frame or a dual sport that you quickly want to get up and off the ground for maintenance. The first one will obviously work with anything and is better for long term projects that you want to get up closer to eye level height so you're not bending over it and killing your back. The table lift is going to be more secure and less likely to tip. I would trust a big heavy bike more on the 1st, but I've lifted my 700lb Goldwing with an ATV type lift. With either one make sure the bottle jack is replaceable the biggest problem I've had with any cheap lift is the seals failing on the jack. e: with a center lift jack you have to always be aware of balance, for example if you lift the bike and remove the wheel and forks the balance shifts to the rear. With the table lift you would be using a separate front end lift to remove the front end on top of the table. The lighter the bike the less this is an issue. Gorson fucked around with this message at 13:13 on Jun 13, 2021 |
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Jun 13, 2021 12:53
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What about this https://abbastandsusa.com/product-detail.asp?item=sky-lift&pid=44 https://youtu.be/4nKOfagyrgI
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Jun 13, 2021 16:17
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Toe Rag posted:What about this Abba stands are loving awesome, although to be honest the simple centre lift and front-wheel lift are enough to do just about any job you're ever likely to want to do at home - the only real advantage of the Sky Lift is if you're doing enough work, long enough, that being able to do it standing up rather than sitting on a little stool or kneeling down is going to be bad for your back. (And yes, I absolutely 100% *do* want a Sky Lift even if the most complex work I've done all year is a battery replacement which I did on the side stand)
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Jun 13, 2021 17:46
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drat I need one of those sky lifts. In the flat position is it significantly lower than the HF table top lift? It's not that much more than the flat HF one, and taking up less of my valuable garage space is worth it for me.
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Jun 13, 2021 19:02
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I have the HF high position lift. It’s great for lots of stuff but doesn’t work with my SV because it routes the exhaust under it. I use it to do other stuff tho like lift my riding mower and things like that. I also sometimes put a piece of plywood on it and use it as a general lift. I’d get the table if I had room for it but the high position lift is a good alternative assuming you don’t have sport bikes or underslung exhausts Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Jun 13, 2021 |
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Jun 13, 2021 19:26
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MomJeans420 posted:Thoughts on either of these lifts? Had one of these several years ago. Its a decent lift. It bleeds down overnight so don't leave it unattended in the raised position.
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Jun 13, 2021 19:55
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MomJeans420 posted:drat I need one of those sky lifts. In the flat position is it significantly lower than the HF table top lift? It's not that much more than the flat HF one, and taking up less of my valuable garage space is worth it for me. Weirdly they don't seem to list how high it goes - I know from seeing one in the flesh that it gets at least 60cms (2 feet) off the ground if that's helpful. Of course the ability to change the angle of the bike means that you may be able to get the bit you're interested in into a much more convenient position regardless of height.
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Jun 13, 2021 19:56
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cursedshitbox posted:Had one of these several years ago. Its a decent lift. It bleeds down overnight so don't leave it unattended in the raised position. I have one of these or something very similar looking. The hydraulic ram leaked once, the manual jacking thingy broke and leaked so I disabled it and just use the compressor attachment. The air pump is starting to falter but seems to be a common design you can find on expensive lifts too so I'm not worried. I've had it about six years.
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Jun 13, 2021 20:20
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I mean you guys all make very good points but OTOH:
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Jun 13, 2021 20:33
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In my bike's manual it states that, when replacing the brake pads, you need to crack open the bleeder (with a piece of hose attached) whilst you push back the pistons. I've never seen that before, I can only see that making sense if you've filled your fluid reservoir to the very max on worn pads?
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Jun 13, 2021 20:37
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High Protein posted:In my bike's manual it states that, when replacing the brake pads, you need to crack open the bleeder (with a piece of hose attached) whilst you push back the pistons. I've never seen that before, I can only see that making sense if you've filled your fluid reservoir to the very max on worn pads? It is to avoid disturbing the brake fluid level yeah. Remember that bikes are built to a service schedule where brake fluid is replaced at intervals while pads wear at whatever rate and are basically never in sync with the fluid. So from a manufacturer point of view it's normal to expect a bike with low pads but high fluid to turn up.
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Jun 13, 2021 20:55
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I have an Abba Sky Lift, and to be honest, you probably don't want one. I got it specifically because it allows you to wheel a bike around while it's on the lift, which is nice when you don't have a dedicated space for a lift and have to move stuff out of the way so your wife can park in her part of the garage. Functionally it works for most things, but it works by clamping pins into the bike's swingarm pivots, so you can't use it for anything involving removing a swingarm. When you buy one, you have to specify what bike you have and they'll send a set of pins that fit. Multiple bikes? You need multiple sets of pins. Single-sided swingarm? There's a delrin spool - extra charge - that plus into your rear hub to hook a strap onto so the bike stays level when you lift it (on bikes with regular swingarms, the strap can be hooked to spools used with rear stands). The hydraulics for the Sky Lift will block you from easy access to one side of the bike, which can be a pain in the rear end. I have never once found a need to lift the bike in either "wheelie" or "stoppie" position. Looks neat in promo photos, largely useless in real life. For general use, a standard table lift would be the most functional way to go, assuming you have the space for it. And it doesn't need you to keep track of a collection of gewgaws and adapters or buy new ones every time you buy a new bike.
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Jun 13, 2021 23:08
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Anyone know whats the normal level of oil consumption on a 1988 3AJ xt600 engine? My "new" tenere looks to be using a bit of oil, at the level of 1liter /1000km - 1 quart -620miles. I assume this is a bit much. The engine runs fine, and I've not seen any seepage of that magnitude. No visible smoke but my brother commented that the exhaust is a little smelly. As I've only used the bike for like 600km yet I think I'll monitor the situation and get a compression tester.
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Jun 14, 2021 07:42
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Supradog posted:Anyone know whats the normal level of oil consumption on a 1988 3AJ xt600 engine? While a compression tester is nice to have anyway, it could also be the valve guide seals.
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Jun 14, 2021 08:24
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Rich needle setting can make you burn oil too.
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Jun 14, 2021 08:29
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Supradog posted:Anyone know whats the normal level of oil consumption on a 1988 3AJ xt600 engine? My 1986 SRX600 also consumed that much oil, in the end I just ended up throwing in a bottle of cheap car oil every couple of weeks. It didn't smoke and didn't leak, but the problem definitely was the rings were worn. I do know it smoked on first start if it had been sitting for a while (so worn valve guide seals too), and I think it also blew oil into the airbox (so I rerouted the crank case ventilation hose to outside of the airbox). For smoke from the exhaust during riding you need to burn extreme amounts of oil, my 690 Duke with its broken ring consumed 2l/1000km and still didn't smoke. How many kms does your bike have? Mine had 70k, but it had been revised once before - my research concluded that those engines need a top-end revision every 30k km. Apparently the 660 doesn't, so maybe the better tolerances of a water-cooled engine took care of that? 5th gear is also a weak point, on my bike that had been replaced, but it still sounded a whiny. Other issues I had with the bike were a torn diaphragm in the main carb, and the indicator switch internals melted. Still, not bad for an at the time 25 year old bike with 70k kms on it. After that bike, a Buell and 2 KTM LC4's I'm happy to now own a bike that doesn't require me to neurotically check the oil.
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Jun 14, 2021 09:02
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It has done 67700km. Zero service history as the last owner bought it for the looks, and used it very little the last 2 years. He had no info at all about it mechanics wise. From the looks of it it has been cosmetically refreshed some time ago, most likely after the bigger off it had, which broke the original front fairing, tweaked the tank mount and handle bar a little on one side. So yeah, looks like I might have to look into rings, cylinders and valve guides. Not had the need to do that on a bike before. 5th gear sounds fine, no issues. Oh well, I was blinded by looks, another mechanical hurdle to tackle. There has been a lot of small PO strangeness here and there on it. Homebrew exhaust, battery mounted back to front, leaky tank, melty indicator because of the homebrew exhaust, coffe brake fluid, rpm wire breaking, headlight bulb jammed in wrong, seat/fairing/tank bolts all random lenght and type of head.
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Jun 14, 2021 10:19
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