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Psycho Society posted:Getting together some paints and general knowledge before I start on this miniatures thing. What's the best varnish to use on metals? If I only get one varnish for now, should I go for satin or matte? I'm planning on using regular non-contrast paints and a couple vallejo metal colors. Any gloss varnish should do it for protection. But it will be gloss, so you’ll want a matt varnish to paint over thst to take away the glossy sheen. But matt varnish alone gives much less protection.
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Nov 12, 2021 07:58
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You can just use two layers of matte varnish too. There's no inherent weakness of finish.
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Nov 12, 2021 09:12
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Psycho Society posted:Getting together some paints and general knowledge before I start on this miniatures thing. What's the best varnish to use on metals? If I only get one varnish for now, should I go for satin or matte? I'm planning on using regular non-contrast paints and a couple vallejo metal colors. Are you brushing on or looking for a spray can recommendation? I personally use a rattlecan of gloss car varnish from for protection, then a coat of plasticote matt to take the shine off, but at the end of the day the finish is personal preference. I like matt as gently caress, other people like a bit of a shine. Literally any varnish will do tbh, regardless of what the model is made of (the varnish after all goes over the paint, not the metal) and really regardless of what acrylic paint you are using. I go with shop own brand car lacquer because a big can is cheap and theres a Halfords within walking distance of me I can pick up more when I need it.
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Nov 12, 2021 14:31
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what’s the ikea lamp everyone likes
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Nov 13, 2021 04:04
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Eej posted:2 lovely IKEA Tertial's with good bulbs is enough for any hobbyist though
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Nov 13, 2021 04:08
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Having an issue and I'm wondering if it's normal or I'm doing something wrong. I'm zenithal priming with liquitex white ink, but it's not fixed in place well. If I put paint on it, then return with the brush while that paint is still wet to push it around, there's a chance the ink lifts off. Am I supposed to protect the ink with something?
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Nov 13, 2021 09:04
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you may be not leaving enough time between applying your primer and ink
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Nov 13, 2021 09:10
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Inks need longer to set than traditional acrylic paints. Beyond that, I almost always slap a satin layer over top of the prime/zenithal white ink.
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Nov 13, 2021 09:12
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How much time should there be? I think there was about 3 hours between prime -> ink and 4 hours from ink -> actual painting.
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Nov 13, 2021 09:13
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I usually give 24 hours after a prime using polyurethane and an airbrush, but I do slap the ink on as part of that process. Maybe I'm weirdly conservative?
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Nov 13, 2021 09:22
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Eediot Jedi posted:How much time should there be? I think there was about 3 hours between prime -> ink and 4 hours from ink -> actual painting. I find that if I paint over ink on the same day it's ok as long as my brush is loaded with paint. If you're dragging settling acrylic paint over the ink then you will lift it off. Varnish layer works fine if you want to work on it right away but I guess you'll need a day for ink? I would think that 4 hours is enough but if you're lifting ink still then I guess not.
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Nov 13, 2021 09:44
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SiKboy posted:Are you brushing on or looking for a spray can recommendation? I personally use a rattlecan of gloss car varnish from for protection, then a coat of plasticote matt to take the shine off, but at the end of the day the finish is personal preference. I like matt as gently caress, other people like a bit of a shine. Literally any varnish will do tbh, regardless of what the model is made of (the varnish after all goes over the paint, not the metal) and really regardless of what acrylic paint you are using. I go with shop own brand car lacquer because a big can is cheap and theres a Halfords within walking distance of me I can pick up more when I need it. Probably going to brush for now, but maybe I'll pick up some spray varnish if that gets too tedious. Thanks for the info everyone
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Nov 13, 2021 11:14
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Eej posted:I find that if I paint over ink on the same day it's ok as long as my brush is loaded with paint. If you're dragging settling acrylic paint over the ink then you will lift it off. That's probably it. I'm not very patient. Almost got 8 BSF cultists from unprimed to table top standard today 
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Nov 13, 2021 14:12
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John Romero posted:what’s the ikea lamp everyone likes I've got two of these flanking my painting booth. They are adequate I guess, but they're a little flimsy and can easily be knocked over. Like if you accidentally tap it with your colossal Airbrush cleaner bottle, for example. I like that it has a USB port so that I can charge my phone. And all the USB ports on my PC are occupied so I actually use these to charge my Index controllers as well
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Nov 13, 2021 14:53
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John Romero posted:what’s the ikea lamp everyone likes I have two Ikea Tertials and these light bulbs Here's the setup 
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Nov 13, 2021 16:08
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 Another ganger for the pile. Most happy with how the skin came out, I'm loving this formula. Start with a base of black and zenithal with daler rowny flesh tint ink. Then, wash the skin with a mix of Guilliman Flesh + Magos Purple + Contrast Medium. Highlight with watered down AP Barbarian Flesh, and increase the highlights with Vallejo Ivory.
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Nov 13, 2021 22:37
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Verisimilidude posted:I have two Ikea Tertials and these light bulbs Mine like this if you put a firecracker in like 10 pots of paint and set them off.
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Nov 13, 2021 23:08
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Verisimilidude posted:
This is great and I love how vibrant your reds are, the black leather is very crisp. For criticism, my attention gets drawn to the OSL gun or the red of the beast plate then down to the pants stripe, or the red of the hammer, I have to fight to come back to the face which should be a focal point. I think the face could use more zenithal to keep more color, and the hair could use a new spot colour.
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Nov 14, 2021 01:24
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Does anyone make a spray of 4BO or whatever passes for Russian military green? I'm 3d printing a Team Yankee army and want to make things easy on myself.
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Nov 14, 2021 05:21
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 Well I thought this looked nice until I took pictures! a) The ... belly teeth (?) were difficult because I was fighting my brushes. Didn't have one that could keep a sharp enough tip which is frustrating. I'm trying to stick with synthetics but it's starting to feel limiting. Took two tries to wind up with this and it's the part of the model I dislike the most. It's a shame because the sculpt is great but I couldn't do it justice. b) Volumetric highlighting is dang hard for me. I took three attempts on the cloak and this last one is barely even noticeable. c) Pink nurglings are gross. I think I like it.
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Nov 14, 2021 05:49
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Eediot Jedi posted:This is great and I love how vibrant your reds are, the black leather is very crisp. For criticism, my attention gets drawn to the OSL gun or the red of the beast plate then down to the pants stripe, or the red of the hammer, I have to fight to come back to the face which should be a focal point. I think the face could use more zenithal to keep more color, and the hair could use a new spot colour. You’re probably right. The photo is also not quite focused where it should be (it’s focused on the hammer rather than the face) and the positioning of the pistol hand somewhat obscures his face as well. His skin also isn’t as vibrant as the other colors present, making it less eye catching. I’ll take another look at it and see what I can do.
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Nov 14, 2021 06:02
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Verisimilidude posted:You’re probably right. The photo is also not quite focused where it should be (it’s focused on the hammer rather than the face) and the positioning of the pistol hand somewhat obscures his face as well. His skin also isn’t as vibrant as the other colors present, making it less eye catching. I’ll take another look at it and see what I can do. I think if his head was more like his bicep on the hammer arm it'd be fine, it's just there's too much super dark, so the transition from dark to light is too condensed to read. Your photography is on point too, I haven't got a decent picture of my dudes yet. Anyhow the other week I complained about not having a decent imperial purple contrast. Turns out you've gotta go the long way with ultramarine blue, let it dry, then volupus pink, let it dry, gets you to purple, then maybe a thin blood angels red glaze to give it more life. Flesh tearer -> volupus makes a great deep red/burgandry. Basilicanum grey -> plague bearer flesh makes a good guardsmen gun/armour green, if you use the grey for poor man's nmn it's a very quick gun. There is already a colour for that but I'm enjoying mixing contrasts way too much. Tinting skeleton horde or snake bite leather for variety in rags is also cool.
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Nov 14, 2021 06:36
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Aranan posted:
Still looks nice.
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Nov 14, 2021 09:22
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Aranan posted:
I'm not seeing the problems you're seeing tbh. I think it looks good! The camera is a lot harsher than the eye is, plus no-one is every going to hold your figures close enough to their face that they are the same apparent size they are on the screen. When I take picture of my models I make them roughly a third of the size of this one, and I STILL see multiple things I dont like. Trick is to just accept thats always going to happen and remember that no-one else is ever going to look at it as critically as you do. Armour and metals look good and grody, belly teeth look fine, pink nurgling looks squishy and gross. Were you using a zenithal highlight? Because a zenithal then thin paints (or contrast paints) is the easiest way to cheat yourself volumetric lighting (assuming that is what I think it is). Dont think it'd make a different on the armour (metallics are so opaque enough in my experience that the zenithal makes gently caress all difference there) but if you are getting frustrated with the cloak it could be worth trying in future. If I'm looking to be critical, Personally I'd highlight the shoulder bone eruption thing a little more, but on the other hand that might draw focus from the face. It just reads a little woody instead of boney to me from the picture (being fully aware it might be different in person). I'd also throw a(nother?) wash over the cape. It currently looks faded, but with the armour being so grody I feel like it'd be more grubby than that. Both of these things are nit picky and you should feel free to ignore them And look, I'm a big proponent of "keep it inexpensive, buy cheap synthetic brushes by the gross and use them like you stole them" (I do have a half decent real hair brush and... Honestly the only difference it makes to me personally is that I get irrationally anxious that I'm loving it up. I find it much more relaxing to use brushes where they were like 10 for £3 off wish or somewhere), but if you are finding them limiting, why are you sticking with them? Multiple other people in this thread have said that they find real hair brushes much better, and you are getting frustrated with your tools, it might be time to spring for a decent brush. Unless this self imposed restriction is a vegan thing in which case, I got nothing. Except to note that all detail brushes have a limited lifespan as a detail brush. If they arent keeping a point good enough any more, sounds like its time to downgrade them to basecoat brushes, or drybrushes/basing PVA brushes if they are getting real bad and get some new ones.
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Nov 14, 2021 12:07
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Is that pink fleshy mass being spawned from the vent, or a nurgling making GBS threads down the exhaust?
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Nov 14, 2021 12:34
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 Painted a seeker of Slaneesh. That velociraptor anteater mount is adorable 
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Nov 14, 2021 13:06
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Geisladisk posted:
I imagine they make this sound: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ITcYKKwXPwo
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Nov 14, 2021 13:21
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Arven posted:Does anyone make a spray of 4BO or whatever passes for Russian military green? I'm 3d printing a Team Yankee army and want to make things easy on myself. Vallejo has a "Russian Green 4BO" spray paint, IIRC.
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Nov 14, 2021 15:21
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Xpost from the Oath thread. I'm pretty happy with how this batch turned out!Zark the Damned posted:Oath Complete!
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Nov 14, 2021 15:27
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Arven posted:Does anyone make a spray of 4BO or whatever passes for Russian military green? I'm 3d printing a Team Yankee army and want to make things easy on myself. You can get an airbrush primer of it from Vallejo, or try Krylon ultraflat camoflague Olive in a rattlecan.
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Nov 14, 2021 15:30
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Sydney Bottocks posted:Vallejo has a "Russian Green 4BO" spray paint, IIRC. I feel dumb, I swear I googled this last night before I posted and couldn't find it. Vallejo must have been the magic keyword. moths posted:You can get an airbrush primer of it from Vallejo, or try Krylon ultraflat camoflague Olive in a rattlecan. I had already checked out Rustoleum camo and couldn't find the right color but Krylon looks a lot more promising. Thanks!
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Nov 14, 2021 16:33
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SiKboy posted:I'm not seeing the problems you're seeing tbh. I think it looks good! The camera is a lot harsher than the eye is, plus no-one is every going to hold your figures close enough to their face that they are the same apparent size they are on the screen. When I take picture of my models I make them roughly a third of the size of this one, and I STILL see multiple things I dont like. Trick is to just accept thats always going to happen and remember that no-one else is ever going to look at it as critically as you do. Armour and metals look good and grody, belly teeth look fine, pink nurgling looks squishy and gross. Were you using a zenithal highlight? Because a zenithal then thin paints (or contrast paints) is the easiest way to cheat yourself volumetric lighting (assuming that is what I think it is). Dont think it'd make a different on the armour (metallics are so opaque enough in my experience that the zenithal makes gently caress all difference there) but if you are getting frustrated with the cloak it could be worth trying in future. I wasn't using zenithal here -- the armor was Deathguard Green -> Creed Camo wash -> Screaming Skull drybrush -> 1:1 Nazdreg Yellow:Militarum Green wash. I tried to focus the drybrush on the upper areas, so functionally I guess it serves a similar purpose. But that was just on the green parts. The purple cloak didn't receive the same treatment. Maybe I'll mess around with the recipe I'm using and try to replicate the almost-white highlights tinted with a wash. I agree that the shoulder bone protrusion definitely reads as wood as it currently is. It was a mistake and I probably should go back and touch it up. The Aggaros Dunes I put on there was way too heavy. I have another model with a shoulder bone spike that looks better and I think the reason is I just was lighter with the application there so I could build it up on the lower half. As for brushes, I was trying to hunt down some of the kolinsky sable brushes for a bit. There was an import ban on that particular type of hair in the states, so I started looking into it and it just made me a little uncomfortable. I'm no vegan by any stretch, but... I dunno. I figured I'd stick with synthetics a little longer and see if I could make them work. I should just batch buy a bunch of them like you suggested. Pierzak posted:Is that pink fleshy mass being spawned from the vent, or a nurgling making GBS threads down the exhaust? AndyElusive posted:Still looks nice.
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Nov 14, 2021 17:13
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Gonna take my Dremel and grind on some of my models; i have heard that you should wear a mask when grinding models. Is that for resin only or any material? If my models are all recent GW models (nothing forgeworld) then they are all plastic right?
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Nov 14, 2021 19:34
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I've been using a banged up store test model #2 Winsor and Newton Series 7 for the last year and I've been taking good care of it and it still holds a point no problem.
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Nov 14, 2021 19:43
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Ineptitude posted:Gonna take my Dremel and grind on some of my models; i have heard that you should wear a mask when grinding models. Is that for resin only or any material? You're putting tiny shards of resin/plastic/metal in the air, you don't want to be breathing that in if you can help it.
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Nov 14, 2021 19:50
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Been on a bit of a tear the last couple of weeks for some reason, heres the highlights. All Malifaux figures, as per. Been doing odds and sods that round out some already painted crews rather than any new crews. The Guild Steward/Governors Proxy. ebay rescue, was missing a hand when I got him. Actually, technically had both hands, but one hand was missing all but one finger, so it got amputated and replaced.  Two Goryo for the Resurrectionists. As an aside, these were two of the worst models to build I've ever encountered in my drat life. After I built them they had to sit in the pile of shame for about 4 months until the memory of the frustration somewhat faded and I could bear to look at them again. Fun enough to paint in the end though!   Two Scavengers for Leviticus' outcast group. By contrast these were practically push-fit, went together like a dream.  Arcanists, Union Miners from the Miners and Steam-Fitters Union.  And lastly, from the Arcanist Foundry faction Neil Henry and Willie the Demolitionist.  
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Nov 14, 2021 22:13
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Two players armies at a GT I just did, ultramarines Gundams and Mario Kart themed Ork buggies:    
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Nov 15, 2021 04:33
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what do people like for Gloss Varnish that can be airbrushed? I've had really good results with Mr Color Super Gloss but something cheaper and higher volume would be nice.
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Nov 15, 2021 16:21
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Tenchrono posted:Two players armies at a GT I just did, ultramarines Gundams and Mario Kart themed Ork buggies: Close the thread, it ain't getting any better than this.
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Nov 15, 2021 16:55
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punishedkissinger posted:what do people like for Gloss Varnish that can be airbrushed? I've had really good results with Mr Color Super Gloss but something cheaper and higher volume would be nice. I've never used it, but Vallejo makes something for airbrushes: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AHD6F2W/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_DHFHW8QCNT0K1ZSB3VSY
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Nov 15, 2021 17:00
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