|
randomidiot posted:Out of curiously though, why are you removing everything? Is the rear diff bad, or just trying to free up an extra 0.1-0.2 MPG? Very cool explanation, really appreciate it. Reason for removing is mostly OCD, I guess. Partially because I'm trying to chase down some other sounds, most likely the rear bearings. The CV axles come out easily on this vehicle but the bearing hubs are welded to the knuckle by corrosion; it's really awful to get them out. Would be really nice if the noise was the rear diff, but its fluid looks fine and it's at the proper level so I probably need bearings. And a shop press.
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2023 00:29
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 13, 2024 23:22 |
|
|
KakerMix posted:You are under absolutely no implied requirement to share anything about price. You gain nothing from letting the buyer know, and lose a potential edge. Thanks, that sounds right.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2023 00:43
|
|
|
sleepy gary posted:Very cool explanation, really appreciate it. Reason for removing is mostly OCD, I guess. Partially because I'm trying to chase down some other sounds, most likely the rear bearings. The CV axles come out easily on this vehicle but the bearing hubs are welded to the knuckle by corrosion; it's really awful to get them out. Would be really nice if the noise was the rear diff, but its fluid looks fine and it's at the proper level so I probably need bearings. And a shop press. Does the driveshaft not act as a seal also for the rear diff? I've never gotten inside one but wouldn't there be a big hole in the front of the diff waiting for a driveshaft?
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2023 00:50
|
|
|
Inner Light posted:Some of those are more likely than others over a several day time period depending on activities, and you may or may not assign $x value to that vs. self insuring. I personally might opt to be a cheapskate for the dirty thrill of risk taking, if the cost for coverage is as much as the rental itself or near it. But maybe not in deep deer country, that’s a pretty good point. So I called my local State Farm office and they said my Liability and Under/Uninsured extended to the rental car. I asked them about comprehensive coverage, and they said that if I added comprehensive coverage to my 98 Toyota it would also extend to the rental car. This doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me - surely the premium for comprehensive coverage takes into account the value of the car, so the premium I would be paying for comprehensive on the 98 Toyota would be much less than the premium if I had a more expensive car. So does it sound correct that it would extend to the rental car?
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2023 00:55
|
|
|
Jose Cuervo posted:So I called my local State Farm office and they said my Liability and Under/Uninsured extended to the rental car. I asked them about comprehensive coverage, and they said that if I added comprehensive coverage to my 98 Toyota it would also extend to the rental car. This doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me - surely the premium for comprehensive coverage takes into account the value of the car, so the premium I would be paying for comprehensive on the 98 Toyota would be much less than the premium if I had a more expensive car. So does it sound correct that it would extend to the rental car? You spend so little time in a rental car that it's probably not worth the time figuring it out to determine the risk there.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2023 01:49
|
|
|
VelociBacon posted:Does the driveshaft not act as a seal also for the rear diff? I've never gotten inside one but wouldn't there be a big hole in the front of the diff waiting for a driveshaft? There's a big hole waiting for the drive shaft on both ends, but both ends are sealed independent of the drive shaft, which is pretty cool in my opinion. No mess removing it and no worries driving without it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2023 02:18
|
|
|
sleepy gary posted:Very cool explanation, really appreciate it. Reason for removing is mostly OCD, I guess. Partially because I'm trying to chase down some other sounds, most likely the rear bearings. The CV axles come out easily on this vehicle but the bearing hubs are welded to the knuckle by corrosion; it's really awful to get them out. Would be really nice if the noise was the rear diff, but its fluid looks fine and it's at the proper level so I probably need bearings. And a shop press. Jack it up, put the back on jack stands. Wiggle each wheel up and down, left and right, to check for play (there should be none). Spin each of them by hand to check for any roughness or noises (you'll probably hear the brake shoes dragging slightly). You'll need to do this with the parking brake off, so make sure you're on a flat surface, chock the front wheels, use jack stands, don't put any part of your body under the car, typical safety etc. Nothing? Go for a drive. Take a couple of long sweeping turns (like a highway interchange) - if the noise gets louder on one side, whatever rear wheel has the most weight has a bad bearing. i.e. on a long right turn, if it gets louder, you have a bad bearing on the left side. Try rotating the tires too. If one or two tires are close to the wear bars, it can sound a lot like a bad bearing.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2023 02:26
|
|
|
Jose Cuervo posted:So I called my local State Farm office and they said my Liability and Under/Uninsured extended to the rental car. I asked them about comprehensive coverage, and they said that if I added comprehensive coverage to my 98 Toyota it would also extend to the rental car. This doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me - surely the premium for comprehensive coverage takes into account the value of the car, so the premium I would be paying for comprehensive on the 98 Toyota would be much less than the premium if I had a more expensive car. So does it sound correct that it would extend to the rental car? Outside of weird expensive cars (lambos etc) or known to get wrapped around trees (wrx, supra, BRZ etc) I think it's mostly your personal risk factors. Namely age, gender, location, credit score and stuff like that, that will impact your premiums. So the 98 toyota will lower it a bit but isn't the primary driver of your rate.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2023 02:58
|
|
|
randomidiot posted:That too. O2 is something you should always go at least name brand on, if not full OEM. totalnewbie has bashed that into our skulls repeatedly, and if anybody knows O2 sensors, it's them (I mean they kinda work for a major OEM in a way that's directly involved with this stuff). Hey it's me. To be clear, I don't just work for a supplier (here in Detroit, we typically use "OEM", when referring to companies, to refer to auto manufacturers), O2 sensors and spark plugs are literally my job. I'm no longer customer (i.e. engineers at an OEM) facing but there's very little I could do to become more involved in it. I don't want someone to get the impression that I work in IT and just happen to be at a supplier. Anyway! When it comes to O2 sensors, just buy OEM. If your OEM sensor is a Bosch sensor and you buy the NTK compatible sensor, there's a good chance you're just going to pull out a Bosch sensor. There ARE sensors produced by non-OEM-suppliers to be compatible with the OEM sensor and for many older vehicles, this is fine (though it obviously does add a layer of possibility for error). This is especially true for switching sensors. For widerange sensors (A/F, LAF, whatever you call them), it's almost impossible to replace with a non-OEM sensor because it's actually actively controlled by the ECU so it needs a very specific sensor (vs. a switching sensor which just puts out a signal and for the most part if the output signal is generally correct then the sensor should generally work fine. Generally.). Leon Trotsky 2012 posted:I think I have a bad O2 sensor, but wanted some advice to confirm. You said you replaced the front sensor, which is what the codes are for. Given that you bought some random sensor, it's entirely possible that the sensor is not correct for the car. Replace it with the correct OEM sensor and then see if the codes go away. If they don't then listen to these guys because they actually know what they're doing with cars. I'm not a mechanic. totalnewbie fucked around with this message at 12:19 on Sep 9, 2023 |
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2023 12:15
|
|
|
THERE HE IS!  Sorry, I didn't want to out your actual job title or the company you work for.  When I think OEM, I think "that's the company that supplied the original part to the car maker", hence the way I worded it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2023 20:16
|
|
|
I know, and it's just when we refer to companies that oem generally means the auto maker. You'll notice I used oem to indicate a supplier but in the context of the parts, not the company.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2023 21:27
|
|
|
You Are A Elf posted:The vehicle: 2003 GMC Sonoma extended cab truck. The GMT360 Trailblazer and Envoy share absolutely nothing with the S10/Sonoma. You'd have better luck with the same-platform Blazer, Jimmy, or Bravada, with a concession that the pre-GMT360 Bravada is nearly non-existent.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2023 00:24
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:The GMT360 Trailblazer and Envoy share absolutely nothing with the S10/Sonoma. You'd have better luck with the same-platform Blazer, Jimmy, or Bravada, with a concession that the pre-GMT360 Bravada is nearly non-existent. Yeah, I didn’t think the Trailblazer and Envoy shared the same platform, but the Blazer, Jimmy, and Bravada vehicles totally slipped my mind. Great options at the junkyards if I see no trucks. Thanks! 
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2023 14:14
|
|
|
Just got a trailer that'll be mostly used for hauling cars around town. After loading it for the first time I realized I desperately need a winch. Let's say the heaviest car I plan on moving is 4000lbs, how much winch do I actually need?
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2023 01:42
|
|
|
If it's rolling on round tires filled with air? A couple hundred pounds. Project sled? Four thousand pounds.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2023 02:16
|
|
|
My Fit had the rear left brake in a pretty bad shape when I got, it but it worked enough to even pass inspection (though the guy noted that it was on the lower end of braking force). I took the caliper off and cleaned and re-greased the slider pins and put everything back on. A bit later now and the disk looks like this:  Seems like the pad is making contact on the outside part now but  I was ordering other parts and could get new disks for like $30 but I don't really want to waste time on replacement only to have them look like this again within months. Maybe check and re-grease again to be sure everything is moving?
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2023 14:03
|
|
|
I would replace the rotor, that looks like more than surface rust, and if the rotor is uneven due to it you're going to destroy the pads and have poor braking.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2023 22:18
|
|
|
In January I drove my 2012 Toyota Corolla down an icy embankment. Incredibly it was completely undamaged, except that in towing it back up to the road, the tow line split the bumper in half. The mechanic zip tied it together, and I'm still driving on the broken bumper eight months later. I don't do any car stuff on my own, not even changing my oil. But I'm thinking that buying a replacement bumper myself and installing it (or at least buying it myself and then taking it to the shop) is something I can do. I'm finding that it's easy to find by googling, but that all the options do not come painted. So that would be an additional thing to do, to get it painted which I am not going to do myself. Bottom line here, what is the most cost effective approach to getting a new bumper, for someone like me with no idea what to do? Should I just go to a body shop and get them to do everything?
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2023 22:48
|
|
|
Ramrod Hotshot posted:In January I drove my 2012 Toyota Corolla down an icy embankment. Incredibly it was completely undamaged, except that in towing it back up to the road, the tow line split the bumper in half. The mechanic zip tied it together, and I'm still driving on the broken bumper eight months later. Find a junkyard bumper from a car of the same colour. You can pick it up and bring it to the body shop.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2023 23:07
|
|
|
Ramrod Hotshot posted:In January I drove my 2012 Toyota Corolla down an icy embankment. Incredibly it was completely undamaged, except that in towing it back up to the road, the tow line split the bumper in half. The mechanic zip tied it together, and I'm still driving on the broken bumper eight months later. In addition to what the goon above said, body panels can be a massive pita, especially on a car that's on salted roads and you were driving on ice so etc.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2023 23:19
|
|
|
What would you call the under-engine protector thing that many cars have now? I’ve got a 14 Cherokee that had one made of fabric and aluminum that I tore off, partially on a road out to deer camp and then completely afterward because it was just flapping around down there. Now with winter coming I want to keep some road salt off the engine/trans but don’t know what the drat part is called. It’s not a skid plate, it’s just like a cover.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2023 13:40
|
|
|
Dr. Lunchables posted:What would you call the under-engine protector thing that many cars have now? That’s gonna be a part number that’s different on like every single car model. There’s not much standardization for that I’m guessing. I would call it an under body cover.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2023 14:16
|
|
|
Search "underbody shielding" You can also call a dealer & see if they can get you a part number; aids in an aftermarket search.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2023 14:41
|
|
|
I guess Mopar calls it a “Belly Pan”. I did find a PN though, thank you for the helpful search terms
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2023 15:04
|
|
|
mobby_6kl posted:My Fit had the rear left brake in a pretty bad shape when I got, it but it worked enough to even pass inspection (though the guy noted that it was on the lower end of braking force). $30 for rotors is cheap. Making sure the guide pins are moving freely is good but I am almost thinking you have a seized caliper piston. Is the brake piston boot/seal torn or cracked at all? If it is then there is a good chance you have some corrosion on the piston and it is frozen/stuck. If your pads were making contact it would have scrubbed off that surface corrosion within a few good stops. Terrible photo but I had to reboot one of the front brake pistons on the LX 570 I bought. One of the pistons boots had torn and one of the four pistons was completely seized  You can see how one of the bellows had split. A little bit of moisture corroded the piston and that was it. Remove the caliper from the hub and have someone (or yourself) press the brake pedal slowly to see if the piston moves out. Use a C clamp or brake caliper compressor tool to push the piston back in. Don't push the pedal too many times or too hard with the caliper off, otherwise you can push the piston right out of the caliper and you will end up with a bit of a mess and a much bigger problem to fix.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2023 15:35
|
|
|
If I wanted to put two LED driving lights and two fog lights (about 3 lbs total) behind this grill, would it be foolish to weld up a steel bracket and hang it off of this bracket that sits in front of the radiator?    Eurowise makes a light bar, but it interferes with the parking sensors.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2023 19:25
|
|
|
The only issue I see is that it might be difficult to get it stable, but I think it's absolutely doable, I would. Strength wouldn't be an issue, that support can easily deal with that.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2023 19:30
|
|
|
Back for another dumb question: how long after refilling a battery with distilled water should it take for the voltage, etc. to improve? Can’t find a straightforward answer online. They told me when I bought this replacement that it was sealed and wouldn’t require it, and I never dug under the cover to see that it covered up caps. Lately all my driver assist programs are failing on every start up (with the rare exception of several short trips in a row). Low voltage seems to be the root cause, but battery cranks the car and runs everything else fine. I don’t want to have to pay out the rear end to get this tracked down (no formal codes), so I’m hoping this might yet be the trick.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2023 20:06
|
|
|
From a cursory google, you’re only supposed to top it off after it’s at full charge. But I’ve never done this, so I dunno. I woulda assumed you need sulfuric acid.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2023 20:14
|
|
|
VelociBacon posted:I would replace the rotor, that looks like more than surface rust, and if the rotor is uneven due to it you're going to destroy the pads and have poor braking. Doing the correct and responsible thing, you say  Somewhat Heroic posted:$30 for rotors is cheap. Making sure the guide pins are moving freely is good but I am almost thinking you have a seized caliper piston.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2023 22:14
|
|
|
somehow i've cracked not one but two wheels beyond repair on my awful car. Is https://www.tascaparts.com a reliable vendor of parts and if so why on earth are they selling wheels for my Ford Edge for like $100 less than everywhere else? e: oh no lmao the reviews are bad as gently caress should hav eknown it's too good to be true
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2023 04:57
|
|
|
REMEMBER SPONGE MONKEYS posted:Lately all my driver assist programs are failing on every start up (with the rare exception of several short trips in a row). Low voltage seems to be the root cause, but battery cranks the car and runs everything else fine. I don’t want to have to pay out the rear end to get this tracked down (no formal codes), so I’m hoping this might yet be the trick. What kind of voltage are you seeing with key on/engine not running (i.e. turn the key to run to where everything comes on, but don't start the engine)? What about with it running at idle immediately after starting it (by immediately I mean in the time it takes you to get from the driver's seat to the battery)? There's a chance you have a loose battery cable that's causing voltages to wander all over the place. Or a bunch of corrosion on the battery terminals. But a voltage check is the first place to start.
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2023 11:36
|
|
|
Gunshow Poophole posted:somehow i've cracked not one but two wheels beyond repair on my awful car. If you need cheep wheels, hit up a salvage yard and see if you can get take offs from an old car. Did that for winter tires on my car and used OEM wheels were cheaper than new cheapo wheels on Tire Rack. They weren't pretty, but serve my purpose.
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2023 12:12
|
|
|
Gunshow Poophole posted:somehow i've cracked not one but two wheels beyond repair on my awful car. Tascas fine, just nowhere near as good as Rock Auto. They ship slow
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2023 12:27
|
|
|
Stupid question: Were the first US-generation Hyumdai Equus trouble-prone? I seem to recall Hyundai's V8s as being questionable. Context: I'm looking for the plushiest luxo-barge I can find to drive my father around, and the Equus and later G90 seem suspiiously affordable.
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2023 16:57
|
|
|
Failson posted:Stupid question: Were the first US-generation Hyumdai Equus trouble-prone? I seem to recall Hyundai's V8s as being questionable. I don't think that any luxury sedan manufacturer has made air suspension that consistently holds up past 10 years old, but that might be my pessimism. Has the situation gotten better? I'm thinking here of all the Lincoln Town Cars with sagging rear ends, and that air suspension was the thing to worry about on nice Mercedes, much more than the drivetrain. I don't know anything specifically about Hyundai 5.0L V8, but it does look like all of the US ones are direct injection only, so you're looking at nut blasting it around 60-80k miles, which isn't a big deal but is something to be aware of.
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2023 17:10
|
|
|
Failson posted:Stupid question: Were the first US-generation Hyumdai Equus trouble-prone? I seem to recall Hyundai's V8s as being questionable. Good username/post combo! Please consider whether you really want to be filling that up with current gas prices and also please consider The Environment and whether a big V8 is necessary for your dadtaxi. Maybe a more typical longer sedan would be easier to get around in and way easier on the wallet?
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2023 18:20
|
|
|
Previous shop lost my wheel lock to my stock factory rims Any reason not to just replace the lock with a regular fastener I park the car in my fairly steep driveway and wheel theft in my neighborhood is low too non-existent
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2023 19:48
|
|
|
Hadlock posted:Previous shop lost my wheel lock to my stock factory rims you're way likelier to have your catalytic converter stolen than your rims these days
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2023 19:49
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 13, 2024 23:22 |
|
|
VelociBacon posted:Good username/post combo! I've been looking at the early Hyundai Genesis too just out of curiosity, it seems to be cheaper than anything else comparable. What other long, comfortable cars should it be shopped against under $10k? When they're that cheap the theoretical savings vs buying anything else would cover a lot of gas, and in theory a non-turbo V8 with a traditional auto has less to go wrong compared to anything with turbos or even a hybrid system / battery.     Edit: Its platform-mate the Kia K900 is dirt cheap too. Twerk from Home fucked around with this message at 21:15 on Sep 13, 2023 |
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2023 20:49
|
|