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Is it the same ratio? Introducing air doesn’t seem like a very good idea.
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Sep 16, 2023 03:43
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Please don't deliberately introduce air into your brakes, wtf If they are sticking on, something is wrong, doesn't really matter what you've got or what's new. The return hole being clogged would definitely cause the issue you're experiencing.
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Sep 16, 2023 08:53
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I've been riding it for a few days of commuting, and it seems to mostly be a non-issue... will mess around with bleeding the brakes again, and will look in the reservoir for that tiny hole. I can't imagine I'll find much on a new master cylinder. Instead, I'd like to ask a different question now: can messing around with the float suddenly increase a bike's fuel economy by 20 mpg? Because this happened to me recently, also. I went from 10+ years of 72 mpg to suddenly getting 90 mpg after screwing around with the float, in response to when my carb suddenly started to piss fuel everywhere out of the overflow. I think I posted about that earlier upthread. I replaced the float valve (fixed it, even though the old part and the new part looked identical) and I also adjusted the float; As I needed the bike operational for my commute later that day, I was just throwing things at the wall at that point and seeing what stuck. Well, 20 mpg stuck... I haven't noticed a loss in performance. Can adjusting a float actually have this big of an impact? I think I adjusted it from where the float touches the needle at a 45-degree angle to the mating surface of the float bowl, down to less than half that. 20, or 15 degrees. I have noticed some significant bluing on the new exhaust I fitted recently, replacing the old rusted one.
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Sep 19, 2023 03:34
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Yes loving with the float will change your fuel economy, for a change that drastic it would've been out really far to start with. I suggest looking in the service manual for where it's supposed to be.
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Sep 19, 2023 03:59
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Slavvy posted:It's kicking over because it's particularly hot and the last cycle would've dragged a little bit of fuel in, the mixture when this happens is particularly lean and will auto ignite. I wouldn't worry about it unless the bike is actually running really lean or something. LimaBiker posted:In especially bad cases with especially hot engines it can keep running for as long as the engine's properly hot Slavvy posted:Harleys are inefficient and they do run hot , they're definitely the bike with the most old-car-like engine. Nerobro posted:TL;DR: Something in your top end is staying hot and it should be checked out. I'm sensing a trend here. After a 30 minute "spirited" ride an infrared heat gun reads 350F (177C) on the metal right next to the spark plug of the rear cylinder. Oil temp dipstick reads 220F (104C). How hot is "hot"? Sometimes my intake burps if I throttle on too hard before the bike is warm enough, I suspect I might have a small intake leak and/or might otherwise be running lean.
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Sep 20, 2023 00:54
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I have no idea how hot is hot in terms of the metal of the engine, 104C oil temp is pretty average. Oil can get really, really hot before it starts being a problem and doubly so on a Harley, every time idiots overheat them the issue is always the heads failing from what I've seen. Only way to really know if you're running lean is to do plug chops, which is very easy on a Harley You can also infer it by looking at your jet sizes in relation to the exhaust/intake situation You can also check for vacuum leaks using starter spray
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Sep 20, 2023 00:57
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Hi , apologize if this discussion has happened recently. A friend in our riding group got hit my a car a month ago. Rode the pavement with his chin for 40+ feet, luckily wearing a full face, but still ended up in the hospital with near life threatening injuries. Now one of the other riders is looking to upgrade his DOT half helmet with a..... snell half helmet. When did snell start certifying half helmets?! I thought they were all about full coverage and impact protection and all their fancy proprietary testing? Now I'm scrambling to have him look at ECE helmets, but I think he already bought into the snell propaganda on their website. When did snell start certifying half helmets? Is it a different rating than their normal one? Basically I'm looking for ammunition to convince him to not get another half helmet when a friend of ours literally nearly died wearing a full face only a month ago.
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Sep 20, 2023 21:46
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There’s a great Fortnine video about Snell being pretty meaningless. The Snell Helmet Standard is Meaningless Did he do a follow up on that at some point? I can’t remember off the top of me head.
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Sep 20, 2023 22:29
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Snell has a table with all the helmets, sizes, and certifications. You can read the M2020 and M2015 standards. Just a quick skimming seems like the testing is the same for full and open face helmets, with the only difference being they don't do visor or chin bar tests on an open face helmet. It seems like they have been doing open face helmets for at least 10 years, which seems odd to me! Maybe it makes sense in a car but definitely not a bike. Given the context, if he's still even considering an open face helmet I'm not sure what you can do to convince him otherwise. The only helmet I know of for sale in the US that is both Snell and ECE 22.06 is the Shoei X-15, which is probably not his style or price range. Here's some videos about "modern" helmet design. Two different approaches for the same idea: reducing rotational velocity to reduce brain injury (not just protecting the skull) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wk94MdHGSPg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BD754n6YwjI
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Sep 20, 2023 22:38
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Tell him open face helmets are for embarrassingly stupid people and ancient old men who's bikes and bodies break down before they can reach an unsafe speed
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Sep 20, 2023 22:54
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Toe Rag posted:Snell has a table with all the helmets, sizes, and certifications. You can read the M2020 and M2015 standards. Just a quick skimming seems like the testing is the same for full and open face helmets, with the only difference being they don't do visor or chin bar tests on an open face helmet. It seems like they have been doing open face helmets for at least 10 years, which seems odd to me! Maybe it makes sense in a car but definitely not a bike. Given the context, if he's still even considering an open face helmet I'm not sure what you can do to convince him otherwise. The only helmet I know of for sale in the US that is both Snell and ECE 22.06 is the Shoei X-15, which is probably not his style or price range. The new contour (quantic in EU) from Arai seems to also be both snell and ece 22.06.
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Sep 21, 2023 05:05
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Toe Rag posted:
There's also the Lazer SuperSkin from a while ago. Actually the internet tells me there are a bunch of technologies now that tries to mitigate the rotational velocity: MIPS, Flex, MEDS, AIS or MoRE.
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Sep 21, 2023 09:22
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Russian Bear posted:The new contour (quantic in EU) from Arai seems to also be both snell and ece 22.06. I wonder what, if any, differences there are between them. The US Contour does not have an ECE sticker and the EU Quantic does not have a Snell sticker.
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Sep 22, 2023 15:42
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The Contour-X is M2020D which implies it is not ECE 22.06 (the Shoei X-Fifteen is M2020R and has the ECE 22.06 sticker). As far as I can tell, the difference between these EU/ECE and NA/DOT helmets is the shell. ECE helmets have softer shells than DOT helmets to help disperse energy. Contour-X (NA) shell is listed as PB-CLC2 Quantic (EU) shell is listed as PB e-cLc Shoei is similar with NA using AIM+ while EU is AIM. What any of that means I guess you need to contact the manufacturer, but my guess is as above: how hard the shell is. Interestingly, the X-Fifteen is Snell M2020R, DOT, and ECE22.06, while the EU version, X-SPR Pro, is ECE22.06 and FIM. The NA version is not FIM, and any FIM helmets I've seen are not Snell. Both NA/EU X-Fifteens use the AIM+ shell  The DOT standard just needs to go away. I'm not sure why Canada uses it besides  It hasn't been updated in almost 50 years.Anyway different types of riding see different types of crashes. For street riding I suspect ECE is more applicable than FIM. While having a modern, science-based global standard would be nice, I think you will still be safe in a Contour-X even if it's not ECE22.06 certified, as annoying as that is. I do think you need to be more cognizant when helmet shopping in the NA market, though.
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Sep 22, 2023 17:35
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Toe Rag posted:The DOT standard just needs to go away. I'm not sure why Canada uses it besides
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Sep 22, 2023 17:43
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Chris Knight posted:Because America. Why re-invent the wheel when your biggest trading partner has a perfectly useless standard you can adopt for free? *laughs uproariously in CSA* E: honestly, thinking about it I'm surprised we don't have a separate standard for helmets
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Sep 22, 2023 18:19
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Phy posted:*laughs uproariously in CSA* 
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Sep 22, 2023 18:35
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Thanks for the breakdown. Haha it’s maddening. I’ll probably just get an RF1400 anyway next year.
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Sep 23, 2023 05:18
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Does anyone have experience mounting cameras on their bike instead of the helmet? I have an RF1400 with a Sena 10C, but it's annoying for a few reasons. Sometimes I forget to charge it, and even fully charged it only records for an hour or so. It adds noise to that side of the helmet. Any interaction with a cop seems to start with them telling me they could ticket me for it as a "helmet modification" lol Plus no matter how I remount it, it adds pressure to that edge of the helmet rim that makes putting it on and off painful on long rides. It seems like having a 360 camera like the Insta360 mounted somewhere on the handlebars with continuous power would be less hassle, but it'd be nice to hear if anyone else has tried it.
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Sep 28, 2023 15:59
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Mr Lanternfly posted:Does anyone have experience mounting cameras on their bike instead of the helmet? I would look at what folks like this do https://www.norenfilms.com/gear/best-action-camera-setup-for-moto-vlogging-in-2023/ fwiw. Looks like just a gopro slapped to the handlebars. And everywhere else too. I wouldn't overthink it though, just give it a try. I suspect dealing with vibration will be your most difficult problem.
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Sep 28, 2023 16:08
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I just do GoPro on the handlebars. I put a hardwired USB port on the handlebars on my bikes and take the battery out of the GoPro (it would get really fucky if I left the battery in on longer rides while also plugged in) Vibration is a non issue for GoPros, the image stabilization is all done in software.
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Sep 28, 2023 16:37
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builds character posted:I suspect dealing with vibration will be your most difficult problem. Speaking of which, has anyone had their phone vibrate to death on their bike? I've heard/read that's a thing. Does the Quadlock or other product that claims "vibration dampening" actually work?
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Sep 28, 2023 17:16
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I did a year long North America tour on a KLR with an iPhone SE strapped to the bars with a cheap plastic mount. After a year on the road, things were fine. Eventually the camera had some dead pixels after like 3 years, and half of the hardware buttons (volume, ring/vibrate switch) stopped working after several years, but that failure rate tracks close to all my other phones that didn't live their lives strapped to a thumper.
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Sep 28, 2023 17:20
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It depends on if the phone has optical image stabilization (most new phones now). If it does you can't just mount it, and I have heard that even the quad lock mount isn't a guarantee. It won't die, your camera will just break. pretty sure the first gen SE did not, the newer ones do though.
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Sep 28, 2023 17:24
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epswing posted:Speaking of which, has anyone had their phone vibrate to death on their bike? I've heard/read that's a thing. Does the Quadlock or other product that claims "vibration dampening" actually work? I've only used RAM x-mount arms and it's never happened to me. Nexus 5e, iPhone XR, iPhone 13 pro max... I used my XR as a 'rally computer" for sandblast rally and it was fine (albeit dirty after) and that was on a DRZ which isn't a harley but it's still a thumper and when revved out to the limiter... I'm putting it in the apocryphal category
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Sep 28, 2023 18:47
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Razzled posted:I've only used RAM x-mount arms and it's never happened to me. Nexus 5e, iPhone XR, iPhone 13 pro max... I used my XR as a 'rally computer" for sandblast rally and it was fine (albeit dirty after) and that was on a DRZ which isn't a harley but it's still a thumper and when revved out to the limiter... https://www.ifixit.com/News/55673/iphone-smartphone-motorcycle-cameras-ois-focus-damage
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Sep 28, 2023 19:08
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epswing posted:Speaking of which, has anyone had their phone vibrate to death on their bike? I've heard/read that's a thing. Does the Quadlock or other product that claims "vibration dampening" actually work? I had my whatever version at the time iphone camera break from this. But it was also a big thumper so maybe less of an issue for others. I got this https://hondogarage.com/products/test-of-perfect-squeeze-bar-clamp-bundle with the buzzkill https://hondogarage.com/products/buzz-kill-vibration-isolator and it's great. Stupid expensive but also really good and cheaper than my phone.
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Sep 28, 2023 19:17
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builds character posted:I had my whatever version at the time iphone camera break from this. But it was also a big thumper so maybe less of an issue for others. I got this https://hondogarage.com/products/test-of-perfect-squeeze-bar-clamp-bundle with the buzzkill https://hondogarage.com/products/buzz-kill-vibration-isolator and it's great. Stupid expensive but also really good and cheaper than my phone. That is the same mount I've used on my Monkey and VStrom. It's now serving on my KX250 as trail navigator
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Sep 28, 2023 19:28
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I have ridden thousands and thousands of miles with a Quadlock with the vibration dampener and my iPhone camera works just fine. Including a 2500 mile road trip where I had no idea where I was going so it was on the handlebars the whole time. Both on my Harley Roadster and my much smoother T120 Bonneville. I recognize that it could still break, but I drop it constantly too so I have accepted that at some point the phone will not take kindly to the way I treat it. I’ve seen people talk about breathing on their phone and having it explode or whatever, but I have never had any issues.
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Sep 29, 2023 17:15
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I pulled the crank bolt cover on my 2021 KLX300R today and found a decent amount of oil there. I think the crank seal might be leaking, but perhaps there's supposed to be oil here? I haven't seen that arrangement before, but I guess some bike motors do this? Center cover: 
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Sep 29, 2023 18:38
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There is no crank seal, that entire area is exposed to the oil sump. Basically every street bike does it like that, the oil is there for the starter sprag.
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Sep 29, 2023 19:13
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Huh. Thanks!
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Sep 29, 2023 19:38
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Generally, if there's a gasket or seal there's probably (supposed to be) oil (or some other fluid) behind it.
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Sep 30, 2023 16:03
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I have three kinks in my chain now, and I'm pushing 25k miles on what I'm sure is the nearly 20-year old factory chain and sprockets. I figure it's time for a new chain and sprockets, though I'm not seeing any real serious wear on the rear one. If the OEM parts (both sprockets, front sprocket lock washer, chain) are all available from Partszilla, is there any point at looking at aftermarket options? e: well after comparing prices, I think I'm gonna do the OEM sprockets and switch to an X-ring chain, $25 cheaper than the OEM O-chain metallicaeg fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Oct 2, 2023 |
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Oct 2, 2023 01:48
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Is there a way to put my rear wheel back on without having to redo the chain tension/alignment? It's a Honda CB300R, if that matters. The rear axle looks like this: If I recall correctly, I've always just loosened everything up to make getting the spacers and caliper back in place easier. I can't slide the blocks forward without loosening the nuts, and I feel like trying to pull it back into place by hand is going to be a pain in the rear end?
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Oct 5, 2023 02:46
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Get a bike with a single-sided swingarm 
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Oct 5, 2023 02:51
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Toe Rag posted:Is there a way to put my rear wheel back on without having to redo the chain tension/alignment? It's a Honda CB300R, if that matters. The rear axle looks like this: After the axle is out, you can't push the wheel forward to get the chain off then slide the wheel out from under without moving the tension nuts?
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Oct 5, 2023 03:12
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I can push the wheel forward and get it out, that's no problem. I can't push the little axle blocks forward. So when I want to put it back in, I'd have to get the spacers and caliper in place, pull the wheel back, and push the axle through. I suppose it is possible but seems like maybe there is a simpler way. Or maybe not with this style of adjusters. Pulling the wheel back by hand also feels like the potential to introduce some slop.
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Oct 5, 2023 03:19
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It should be possible to take the wheel in and out without disturbing the chain tension yeah, there should be enough slack in the chain that it doesn't cause the axle to bind up. Turn it to the loose spot before taking the wheel out so you get maximum slack to help you.
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Oct 5, 2023 03:53
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More chaintalk. Having trouble triple-confirming stock chain for my '02 FZ1. I'm seeing 'conversion kits' to bring it to 520 size, so am I to assume it's 530 stock? (not getting the kit, want to keep it as stock as possible). e: i think 116 links too? I'm going to buy a quality DID chain, do not fear. Will not gently caress around with something with almost as much power as my car Jonny 290 fucked around with this message at 18:40 on Oct 5, 2023 |
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Oct 5, 2023 18:32
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